Suspension lift advice please :)

[MountainBrew]

So I purchased a 2" "add a leaf" and front joint spacer lift from toytec for my ifs 86. The guy who had it before me put 2" blocks in the back, and no lift in the front. I was initially planning on replacing the blocks with the new leafs, but someone suggested I leave them in to compensate for the rear sag that plagues these trucks. The picture shows how it currently sits, and honestly the rake doesn't appear very noticeable. Any thoughts? Should I leave them in?

 

[DeclansDaddy]

I like it!! The wheel wells in these trucks deceive us. The rear wells are closer to the tire so that always gives the illusion of sag. But your rockers look pretty level to me. I'd leave it. A little rake in these truck are hidden by the wheel well dilemma also.

 

[KidVermicious]

Axle blocks can cause axle wrap. If you wheel it, I'd ditch them.

 

[MountainBrew]

Can't get the hardware out of these dang plates. Any suggestions? Am I gonna have to just replace them? I cut one of the bolts off but didn't do anything

 

[MountainBrew]

Ok little more research is telling me I should probably just replace the upper ball joints...

 

[KidVermicious]

Yup.

 

[Atrox Caeda]

Axle blocks can cause axle wrap. If you wheel it, I'd ditch them.

Had many issues with this... and exploding Aluminum blocks under enough pressure.

 

[MountainBrew]

Is it worth doing both upper and lower ball joints if I'm going to be doing the uppers anyway? Anything else I should do? I was thinking the tie rod end... Maybe some bushings... I'm going to be doing an alignment after I get the ifs spacers in. So I would like to replace most of the easy parts that would require/affect an allignment

 

[KidVermicious]

Is it worth doing both upper and lower ball joints if I'm going to be doing the uppers anyway? Anything else I should do? I was thinking the tie rod end... Maybe some bushings... I'm going to be doing an alignment after I get the ifs spacers in. So I would like to replace most of the easy parts that would require/affect an allignment

Yup. Upper and lower ball joints, tie rod ends, could replace your idler arm while you're in there. Don't worry about the sway bar bushings, just pitch the whole thing. You don't need it. Check the a-arm bushings though.

 

[MountainBrew]

well.... I had a few beverages last night and ordered...

• 2 beck arnley lower ball joints
• 2 beck arnley upper ball joints
• 2 beck arnley inner tie rod ends
• 2 beck arnley outer tie rod ends
• 2 beck arnley tie rod sleeves
• ACdelco pitman are
• acdelco idler arm

Putting it all in with the ball joint spacers and rear add a leafs this weekend. Alignments on Monday. Trails on Tuesday. :rockon:

Thanks for the help boys, let me know if you have any other thoughts!!

 

[RAD4Runner]

Axle blocks can cause axle wrap. If you wheel it, I'd ditch them.

And they do not do anything to improve your ride quality- just physically lift the rear. Still leaves you with flat springs that make you slow down at dips on the road.
Add-a-leaf, Old Man Emu upgrade (2-inch lift over stock), stock replacement leafs OR ZUK-mod are all better than blocks.

Best of luck with the restoration.

 

[wshiverick]

Whoever does your alignment is gonna love you for all those new parts. I bet you could get a cheaper price at the right shop cause they know they won't be dealing with any seized and rusted shit.

 

[MountainBrew]

So while poking around my steering linkage I noticed that my steering damper is... Well it isn't. Should install one? Is there a reason the previous owner removed it? I'm assuming it wouldn't affect the alignment

 

[Atrox Caeda]

Just SAS it like I did to my mini years ago! :dance:

 

[Atrox Caeda]

So while poking around my steering linkage I noticed that my steering damper is... Well it isn't. Should install one? Is there a reason the previous owner removed it? I'm assuming it wouldn't affect the alignment

No effect except for dampening unwanted input to the steering. It was due to having a steering box vs rack. It won't change alignment. It's a static shock absorber.

 

[KidVermicious]

So while poking around my steering linkage I noticed that my steering damper is... Well it isn't. Should install one? Is there a reason the previous owner removed it? I'm assuming it wouldn't affect the alignment

You could install one if you wanted, but they aren't necessary.

 

[MountainBrew]

So I had a big day yesterday! Installed new upper ball joins, both tie rod assemblies (inner outer sleeve), pitman are, idler arm and....2" ball joint spacers. Dropped it off for alignment and should have it back today.
I didn't have time for the lower ball joints, but I'll get to those soon.
Now my issue is... As it sits, the front is way higher than the rear even though the previous owner put 2" blocks in the rear. I was planning on removing the blocks and putting add a leaf to match the 2" front spacers, but it appears that the blocks just helped the saggy leaf springs instead of giving it a 2" body lift. So if I remove the blocks I will still be way lower in back even with the add a leafs. Sooo... It seems like my best bet would be to replace the existing leaf spring pack with one in better shape AND add the add a leafs? Sound right? Are those packs hard to come by?

 

[KidVermicious]

Pretty much any other 4Runner rear springs you find are going to be just as saggy as yours.

Option 1, OME spring pack. Should match the ball joint spacers perfectly. This would be my recommendation, assuming that's all the lift you'll ever want, see below.
Option 2, get a 3" lift spring from about anywhere, and crank your torsion bars to match. Blech.
Option 3, rebuild your existing spring pack. Two leaves inserted should bring you back to stock without being too stiff, then maybe a 5.5 or 6 inch shackle to match the ball joint spacer lift. I've done this, it rode ok. I like the OME springs better.
Option 4, add a leaf and leave the blocks. I would recommend against this, for lots of reasons.
Option 5, Chevy or Ford spring swap. Takes fab, and you'll have to mess with building the pack to get the height right, but once you've got it right the longer springs ride really well.
Option 6, ZUK mod. Google it. I've done it before, it works, it's not ideal.

After that it gets expensive. Companies like Alcan or Deaver will build you a custom spring pack to your exact specifications, or there's a couple of different link conversion kits on the market. My suggestion would be to figure out now exactly what height you want it, find the best way to go straight to that height, and leave it there. If you think you might want to go higher than the 2 inches you're working towards now, then do that and save yourself the intermediate step.

 

[MountainBrew]

I think I'm going to keep it at 2" for quite a while since it is my DD as well. OME spring pack sounds like the way to go, only problem is I have a set of add a leafs already, but oh well I want to do the job right.
In other news I've started hearing a thunk in my drive train. It occurs when I release the clutch to accelerate (both from a stop and as I shift through the gears) and also when I let off the gas and slow down (while not pushing the clutch in). It was also started a bit when I physically switch gears even before I let the clutch out. It is difficult to tell where it is coming from within the car, but I suspect a transfer case or rear drive shaft (u joints?). It seems like it was initially doing it when there was power going to the drive shaft, and also when the opposite happens (ie engine breaking where the engine is actually slowing the wheels).
In the last day or two it has started to make a much quieter tapping sound as I slow to a stop. Not really sure what it is and haven't had a chance to get under it yet.

 

[Scalded_Dawg]

Start at checking the U-joints...