Suspension option to reduce swaying on turns?
- Thread starter jdm-v35
- Start date
I have not. saw the chrome, interior and bodystyle and wasnt really liking it. Plus it is nice to have the rear locker option. From reading though, the xreas would be the softest suspension option
The one from Ironman is only the aluminum bracket. The real difference with this kit is the Delrin sleeve inside the bushing. In theory the Delrin should really tighten the bushing compression.
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yes the fronts and rears are OME springs. 2" lift all around and they are stiffer than oem. I am guessing yours could be stiffer at the cost of some travel because you are preloading the stock springs. my clips are on the lowest settings.
MAST4R
New member
I have used 4 front springs and 2 rear springs not to mention front Dobs with OEM rear.
With all that, I would say that a stiff offroad setup has virtually no sway but comfort on road will not be the same as with a lighter duty spring. I don't really sway.
For most people, I would say 6112 at lowest setting with stock rear springs and Eibach sport shocks in the rear to maximize comfort while improving handling.
This will give you great handling for an SUV and a plush ride.
And it will still be an improvement off-road though it won't match the speeds of a stiffer suspension or the latter's ability to not squat over rocks when crawling. But most people don't need either of those abilities.
EDIT: come to think of it, the 6112 on 600lb springs still has lots of brake dive. So I am not sure if that would be a factor for you. But it corners very nicely. 650lb springs dramatically improve the 6112's offroad performance but they make for a sporty rather than a plush ride on road.
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Thanks for the info! that firsthand comparison info is highly useful. How would you compare 600 vs 650 spring change on road? more firm and planted and less sway? I am looking for that very firm sport feel more so than plush and comfortable. I am on 5100's and the fronts are 590lb springs. maybe going to 6112 fronts with 650's would be ideal. But if I am going that far I may just go kings with 650 or 700lb fronts.
I dont crawl over rocks much much except to go on trails on the woods for camping. Most of it is high speed washboard and fire roads.
I figured for $60 ill try the poly sway and endlink bushings before jumping straight to $2500 kings.
I also just thought about that I do have dual AGM batteries up front now which could cause sagging in front as well.
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Sounds like the cheapest option might be to keep a bottle of dramamine in the 4Runner for her
On a more serious note - expanding on Jetboy's comment, I would also test drive a 4Runner with KDSS. I wanted KDSS specifically to stiffen up the truck at higher speeds as my girlfriend gets motion sickness rather easy and I was used to driving a full size pickup with much less body roll.
It might not be feasible to sell/change to a vehicle with KDSS, but you could see if the 4Runner is something that can be considered for you two moving forward, or if the KDSS makes a significant enough change where you want to upgrade.
Either way, I just install my suspension about 200 miles ago and it has less body roll/nose diving lifted than it did factory w/KDSS. The ride is a little firmer but very comfortable.
I did upgrade the UCA's to get additional caster which helps reduce the touchiness of the steering and makes it feel a bit more stable at high speeds. Another thing you might want to try - can get Freedom Offroad UCA's for a great price - I'm personally quite impressed with them.
I have 5100's on all 4 corners and dobinson springs in the back. I don't have much body roll(nothing like stock) so it might be rear springs would help
THIS^ I'm the same way.
That said, to answer your question, I just got heavier dobinson springs and my 4R rides much stiffer than before. It makes me feel like I'm back in my 3/4 ton truck. Which to me is a good thing.
Bumbo
New member
I think the 4th gen model had motion sickness down for the rear passengers... people say that little thing back there is for a little trash can, but the size and shape better resembles a barf bag.
Couple that with the lacking sun glass holder... and you can really see what's lacking in the 5th.
Couple that with the lacking sun glass holder... and you can really see what's lacking in the 5th.
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since people mentioned dobinsons I took a look at their rear springs. unfortunately the only ones that are stiffer than the what I currently have are the springs rates for 600-800lbs of weight (271lb springs). my OME 2895e's are 260lb springs.
If the bushings do not help, I will take a look at other suspension options. not only for this reason, but it may be good to do an upgrade anyway in the near future.
If the bushings do not help, I will take a look at other suspension options. not only for this reason, but it may be good to do an upgrade anyway in the near future.
You might call Dobinsons or contact Crikeymike on here. I think there is an intermediate weight spring in the 400# range, IIRC.
I wish, but not at the moment if possible. Trying to finish up engine for my other car first before doing more expensive work on the 4runner. I also do not really daily the 4runner. It is just used in bad weather, for camping, and hauling stuff for the most part. Camping drives are long though, which is usually when it comes up.
In that case, as it's not a daily.... generic dramamine is cheap...
Crikeymike
Senior Member
It could be the digressive shocks. I'd say the springs you're running now should be more than enough.
Try changing the rear shocks out and put the stock ones back on. It won't cost you anything and you can see how it feels with different shock valving.
Try changing the rear shocks out and put the stock ones back on. It won't cost you anything and you can see how it feels with different shock valving.
Thanks for the suggestion. that may be a good idea. are the stocks progressive style valving?
Louisiana Overland
New member
I did some work on my suspension last year that has it handling much flatter. I have the standard yellow shock OME 3” kit. The shock/spring combo adds about 3” front and 2” ish rear lift. First I swapped to sway bushings front and rear to urethane. This did result in a noticeable change on its own.
I had also installed adjustable rear sway bar links. Mine are Dobinsons, although several sources are available. The purpose here is to correct the geometry of the rear sway bar after lifting. Two reasons. Number one is to lower the ends of the sway bar so that it is as near parallel to the ground as possible. This puts it back in position to function as designed to combat rear sway. Second reason, after lifting, unless you have extended sway links to lower the ends, the travel of the sway bar is limited. So, in offroad situations, the axle droop can be limited by the sway bar’s travel. Adding the adjustable links fixes this and allows for the droop to be limited by the max extended length of the shock. Good stuff, eh?
Lastly, the panhard bar. Factory panhard geometry puts it pretty much parallel to rear axle. Lifting the suspension will change the angle on the bar. The bars function is to keep the rear axle centered under the truck and also to brace against side to side motion of the axle. It cant do either very well unless it is parallel to the axle. An adjustable panhard bar can be used to re center the rear axle under the truck, but does nothing to help with the bracing against side to side motion. A panhard correction bracket fixes both issues without replacing the bar itself. Forum member eimkeith sells these. It is a weld on bracket, but it retains factory mount positon in case you ever go back to stock ride height. After installing it extends the length of the axle bracket to get the bar parallel.
These three mods together made a great bit of improvement to handling. Its about as near to slot car handling as one can expect from a lifted vehicle.
Lastly, is this a new thing for her? I had a vertigo episode awhile back that really messed me up for about 6 months. Maybe theres medical help for her situation.
Also, my ex got car sick..unless she was driving. Let the girl wheel!
I had also installed adjustable rear sway bar links. Mine are Dobinsons, although several sources are available. The purpose here is to correct the geometry of the rear sway bar after lifting. Two reasons. Number one is to lower the ends of the sway bar so that it is as near parallel to the ground as possible. This puts it back in position to function as designed to combat rear sway. Second reason, after lifting, unless you have extended sway links to lower the ends, the travel of the sway bar is limited. So, in offroad situations, the axle droop can be limited by the sway bar’s travel. Adding the adjustable links fixes this and allows for the droop to be limited by the max extended length of the shock. Good stuff, eh?
Lastly, the panhard bar. Factory panhard geometry puts it pretty much parallel to rear axle. Lifting the suspension will change the angle on the bar. The bars function is to keep the rear axle centered under the truck and also to brace against side to side motion of the axle. It cant do either very well unless it is parallel to the axle. An adjustable panhard bar can be used to re center the rear axle under the truck, but does nothing to help with the bracing against side to side motion. A panhard correction bracket fixes both issues without replacing the bar itself. Forum member eimkeith sells these. It is a weld on bracket, but it retains factory mount positon in case you ever go back to stock ride height. After installing it extends the length of the axle bracket to get the bar parallel.
These three mods together made a great bit of improvement to handling. Its about as near to slot car handling as one can expect from a lifted vehicle.
Lastly, is this a new thing for her? I had a vertigo episode awhile back that really messed me up for about 6 months. Maybe theres medical help for her situation.
Also, my ex got car sick..unless she was driving. Let the girl wheel!
Muskrat14
New member
My friend wife get motion sickness in every car, except when she drives. Out her behind the wheel and see if it makes a difference.
I’ve never driven a KDSS version of a 4runner, but take one of those for a drive and see what happens.
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