Suspension recommendations for a daily driver

[jerad]

I know all about full suspension lifts. I'm selling off my JKU because we recently moved back to the Missouri from San Diego and I'm tired of driving a huge rig without a place to really off-road it. I would like to fit larger tires such at the 255/80/17 and try to maintain factory ride since this will be a daily driver/mall crawler 99% of the time out here. In my reading ICON seems to be the go too, but people state that it makes the ride stiffer which I don't want.

I'm thinking about starting with a spacer lift, like the toyotec 2.5" front and 1.5" rear. It's my understanding that this should clear 255/80/17s on road, anyone running this combo?

Any other recommendations? Money isn't the main concern, mostly keeping a very comfortable ride that handles at least as good as factory. My Jeep drove me away because it wasn't fun to drive long distances and I love UTAH, CA and AZ!

Here's my Jeep, it's just a basic lifted Jeep now. All extras have been removed and will be sold separately to help fund my 4R build.

 

[Dorobuta]

I'm running an ICON stage II suspension and am happy with it. I don't find it to be overly stiff at all. It's the same set up I had in my FJ, so I knew what I was getting.

Any of the lifts would suffice for your application, including the spacers. I'm not a fan of spacers, but as you said, it is mostly a daily driver / mall cruiser, so it would be fine.

 

[007Tacoma]

Welcome to the Dark Side. :vader: :wave:

I have not gotten around to my suspension upgrades yet, but I have put in a serious amount of time researching them. That being said, money is a factor for me - so my recommendation is more on the economical side. I don't do serious off-roading, but I routinely find myself in remote areas that require 4WD, clearance, and finesse.

I am choosing to go with:

Bilstein 6112 on front under 2" lift
Bilstein 5160 on rear with Sway-A-Way springs

This should give me a mild lift just under 2", maintain a mostly stock ride, and control the nose dive in emergency braking scenarios.

 

[Koddo]

Try using it without a lift for awhile. I've mentioned this in another thread....lifts for these don't give you the same bang for the buck that lifts for a JK do. You'll be able to fit just -slightly- larger tires but at the cost of dealing with additional headaches that come with a lifted 4R as opposed to a Jeep. KDSS/UCA/zero point calibration (if KDSS)/alignment issues. It's more than capable stock and you won't be dumping a bunch of money into a lift that won't net you much. Armor and better tires are definately the way to go.

^^^ I say all this mainly because it sounds your concerned with on-road performance for long drives just as much as offroad performance. Since you sold your Jeep for this reason...

 

[jerad]

Try using it without a lift for awhile. I've mentioned this in another thread....lifts for these don't give you the same bang for the buck that lifts for a JK do. You'll be able to fit just -slightly- larger tires but at the cost of dealing with additional headaches that come with a lifted 4R as opposed to a Jeep. KDSS/UCA/zero point calibration (if KDSS)/alignment issues. It's more than capable stock and you won't be dumping a bunch of money into a lift that won't net you much. Armor and better tires are definately the way to go.

^^^ I say all this mainly because it sounds your concerned with on-road performance for long drives just as much as offroad performance. Since you sold your Jeep for this reason...

Your right, I keep telling myself to leave it alone. Which is why I'm thinking about staying minimal and just doing a spacer lift. I have a hard time spending $ on tires unless they are bigger than stock. My other concern is that I'll be doing a custom expedition storage system in the back along with a fridge and slide. I assume the ass is going to sag a little so at some point I'll be looking to boost it back up anyways.

 

[toku58]

I would recommend considering Bilstein 5100.

They are 1" longer than the stock shocks but not overly extended as if you do a spacer lift.

You can get a set for $200 at 4wheel parts. And the 1.5" spacers for the rear should be fine.

But remember that with that lift you'd most likely want to do UCA's for drivability. I would also consider the diff drop to avoid CV boot changes, depending on the boot fins touching.

In any case? Take you time and decide what your end goal is so you don't waste money doing constant upgrades.

Good Luck!

 

[Toffees]

I'm not riding either, but you mention you don't want the Icon Stage II because it will make your ride stiffer--the Toytec spacers will also alter your ride from stock. I'm guessing all things equal, you'll get a better ride/result switching to the Icon IIs than simply adding spacers, but others can comment from personal experience.

That said, I'd keep it stock for a while as said above.

 

[T4RGold]

Another 5100 Fan.

I know all about full suspension lifts. I'm selling off my JKU because we recently moved back to the Missouri from San Diego and I'm tired of driving a huge rig without a place to really off-road it. I would like to fit larger tires such at the 255/80/17 and try to maintain factory ride since this will be a daily driver/mall crawler 99% of the time out here. In my reading ICON seems to be the go too, but people state that it makes the ride stiffer which I don't want.

I'm thinking about starting with a spacer lift, like the toyotec 2.5" front and 1.5" rear. It's my understanding that this should clear 255/80/17s on road, anyone running this combo?

Any other recommendations? Money isn't the main concern, mostly keeping a very comfortable ride that handles at least as good as factory. My Jeep drove me away because it wasn't fun to drive long distances and I love UTAH, CA and AZ!

Here's my Jeep, it's just a basic lifted Jeep now. All extras have been removed and will be sold separately to help fund my 4R build.

My off-roading is 420 miles from the house, so lots of highway miles. I'm running 5100s front and rear. 2.5" up front and 2.0" Cornfed spacers in the rear. I had Camburg BJ UCAs installed up front so that the alignment would be excellent and it is. The ride is awesome. No more brake dive or corner sway. Firm yet smooth. I have approx. 4,000 miles on this lift and so far so good.

 

[Jono.ful]

@OP leave it alone until after you get the storage area mods finished and you can see how the truck sits/drives with the extra weight. you will likely see some sag, but how else do you properly accommodate for it appropriately before the fact?

UCA's and diff drops are not necessary if all you are looking to do is maintain the stock ride height after adding minimal additional weight in the back. these things will come into play once you get into the 3" neighbourhood, but are a needless expense until you a) start having alignment issues after a lift, and b) start wearing out cv boots. until then, don't waste your money.

 

[Colorado S14]

I went Bilstein 5100s @ 1.75" up front with a 3/4" Cornfed spacer in the back. Running FN Six Shooter wheels and 275/70-17 K02s. It is perfect for a daily, as mine is. Looks killer too. If you are not going to be serious off roading dont waste your money on something like an Icon lift. My "lift" cost me $490 and rides better than stock. At this height I was able to get close to stock alignment numbers too so no need for an UCA either. Wheels were $899, sell the stockers to get some of that back and the tires were $125 ea after Discount Tire gave me $75 back for the factory take off tires. Can't beat it with a stick.

 

[JSparky]

I came from a JK too so I may feel what you're going through. I've since cycled through a few vehicles, including a 2013 4runner and 2016 Tacoma before settling on my 2016 4runner. On the 2013 ran fox coilovers up front with their 2.0 series shocks and radflo springs in the rear. It drove great, but I'd recommend upping the rear shocks to a 2.5 shock body.

I just installed radflo coilovers on my current 4runner and they're hands down better.. I was amazed at how smooth they are, it's really crazy. Paired them with their 2.5 rear shocks. Also, Metaltech has 10% off Radflo right now.. just got their email.

Anyways, I don't think you can really make a wrong choice here, but the calving on the radflo's are superior to fox, for what it's worth. Good luck!

 

[Jono.ful]

I just installed radflo coilovers on my current 4runner and they're hands down better.. I was amazed at how smooth they are, it's really crazy. Paired them with their 2.5 rear shocks. Also, Metaltech has 10% off Radflo right now.. just got their email.

Anyways, I don't think you can really make a wrong choice here, but the calving on the radflo's are superior to fox, for what it's worth. Good luck!

...too bad Radflo holds such a tight grip over their retailers, MetalTech had them up for 15% off originally. I'll second their ride quality though, been running their 2.5" front and rear for 2 years now. had a bad seal which lead to the famous radflo clunk, but that's an easy fix

 

[LandCruiser]

Toytec Ultimate with 5100s.

The ride quality is actually improved over the stock suspension.

 

[delloro]

Go with a 1" spacer up front (gives 2" of lift). Inexpensive, factory ride.

I used airbags in back to level.

 

[swva]

To maintain a factory ride I would consider the TRD Pro suspension package or the Bilstein 6112/5160 combo.
The TRD Pro suspension is basically the same as the 6112 but the Pro suspension is set at 1.25" of lift for the front whereas the 6112 is adjustable. Both have 5160's in the rear.
With the Pro suspension there would be zero warranty concerns.
I don't know about 255/80/17s but you should be able to fit 255/75/17s without issue.

Sent from my XT1575 using Tapatalk

 

[JSparky]

So, if money isn't such of an isssue, and you clearly have experience with suspension, there's no reason not to go with a full-on coilover setup with 2.5 rear shock body's in the rear. I wouldn't play around with the lower price point options cause you may find yourself asking for more.