suspension

[christian9]

hey guys-- I am a relatively new owner of a stock 2000 sr5 with 70k miles, and I am not very mechanical .... I have a question regarding suspension; I noticed the tires are wearing a little unevenly, and my tire guy said it needs aligned. I assume all of the suspension is all original to the vehicle. I have found that it drives pretty squishy, not very responsive, for lack of a better description. My question is this: should I replace some suspension parts to improve the ride along with doing the alignment? I read a little about the sway bar.... would that be wise to get done now? Specifically what have you used in the past? What would you guys recommend as far as OME vs aftermarket shocks? I am wondering about the bushings as well. I have a little money saved to work on the vehicle, but I would need to know exactly what to order as I don't have a performance shop or toyota dealer in town. BTW, I am driving almost exclusively on-road, a lot of snow in the winter, occasional dirt/ mud, but no serious off-roading. The wheels and tires are stock size, no lift. I am pretty new to all this, kind of don't know where to start here. I know it is a broad subject, thanks for any advice

 

[christian9]

anybody? bueller.... bueller....

 

[p nut]

First off, realize that you're driving an SUV, not a car. It will have more sway and suspension travel.

Anyway, if you're going to be on-road, then get some Bilstein shocks. They are noted to be more firm for better on-road handling. You COULD beef up the sway bar, but at that point, why have a truck? Go buy a car.

And yes, you do need an alignment. Also, make sure your tires pressures are all the same, too.

 

[shootmymime]

i went with 200,000 miles on my stock shocks, and almost died on the highway from hitting a bumb, so i thought it was time to replace them.

i think u need an alignment and some new shocks,


btw sway bar is not what u need

 

[christian9]

thanks a lot, guys-- I will probably look into the Bilsteins.... should I replace anything else while I am replacing the shocks?

 

[One_96TR4]

I would recommend Tokico trekmasters. There a little stiffer than the stock replacements but nice. I had a hard time deciding between the bilsteins and the tokicos, I'm glad I went with the tokicos. Not sure how well your springs are holding up but If your rear is starting to sag or you want to nip it in the but before it does I would recommend some Performance products springs. They'll give you a little better handling that you desire and very mild lift. About an inch. I know they offer a lowering spring as well so you can drop it an inch if you'd like.

 

[4daRUNNER]

well i went with Rancho RS5000. luv the ride. only driving on highway and city streets though. just got my rear springs and bump stops redone (RECALL on 96-02 4runners 4wd/2wd). WOW!!! what a difference. you cant go wrong with a new set of springs and shocks setup. keep us posted.

 

[Flyist]

Rear Shock R&R on 00' Sport

Hello there, I just joined the forum, own a dark green 2000 sport model since new (had 2 miles on it, on and off the boat). I need to change out my rear shocks, started the project, got it up on jack stands, but am finding it extremely difficult to get to the top of the shock mounts to unbolt the nuts. Has anyone done this and is there a good method for this? Thanks, this looks like a great forum!

 

[One_96TR4]

Your going to need to either cut them off or you can try and use a vise-grip to hold the shock body and spin it the other way while you unblot the top. There a PITA because they rust easily and there isn't much room to get a good hold on them.

 

[4daRUNNER]

i just replaced mine a couple months ago. i bought a HAYNES manuel and it says to hold the upper nut with the wrench and turn from the shock itself !?! its very challenging when the upper nut is SO tight you cant get it started. SO, it was custom time. lol.

Locate the dust shield on your stock shock (before completely unbolting your Lower shock bolt)

Cut the dust shield about 1/2 -1 inch, then split. (shock rod is now visible)

Attach Vise Grips to rod

Place proper size wrench on the Upper Shock nut

Break Upper nut loose

Unbolt the Lower nut

When accomplished, remove the Vise Grips and turn the shock itself. With the wrench on the Upper nut, turn the opposite way

When the task is complete (on one side) slowly and closely remove the upper nut, washers, and bushings. make notes of how they are removed. U may need to use a bushing, depends if your set-up came with complete (unlike mine)

this is how i did mine with little tools and it being my first time.
hope this helps any.