Sway bar bushing frustration

M

MTDewX8

New member
so I noticed my bushings were cracked and it hasn't snowed today (did yesterday). easy fix so finally did it this evening.

well as I took them off I noticed some rust. ok should be ok cause I bought new washers AND bushings.

well the rod looks bent and it seems it was the item rusting.

so looking for confirmation that there bent and I have to REDO this easy task.

I hate redoing things over if I can avoid it. should have just bought new rods as I was getting bushings. dam bushings and washers were $35 what is the rod going to cost me.
good Idea where I can get some rods? dealer would be the quickest.

anyway i know its a small vent, but had to :driving:
 

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You wouldn't feel like doing a brief write up would ya Dew? I've bought the front and rear sway bar bushing kits from energy suspension, I just haven't had a chance to swap them out yet. I've looked around for a writeup but haven't come across one. I've heard you don't want to jack anything up because it puts a load on the swaybar, but it looks like you've got it jacked up under the center crossmember (both wheels off the ground), is that right? TIA for any tips you wouldn't mind passing on.
 
@Realtor:
Just curious, are the EnergySuspension bushings poly? If so, why did you chose them over rubber ones? Only reason I ask is that poly bushing are notorious for having a rough ride. (not sure how they are on just sway bars though)

Also, where are you a realtor? I'm a season Mortgage Banker, maybe we could help eachother out.
 
THEREALTOR1 said:
You wouldn't feel like doing a brief write up would ya Dew? I've bought the front and rear sway bar bushing kits from energy suspension, I just haven't had a chance to swap them out yet. I've looked around for a writeup but haven't come across one. I've heard you don't want to jack anything up because it puts a load on the swaybar, but it looks like you've got it jacked up under the center crossmember (both wheels off the ground), is that right? TIA for any tips you wouldn't mind passing on.
Click to expand...

from what I read, you need to jack it up to get the load off the sway bar. and yes the techical term are links, but I make names up for most things called thingy's and eventually the real name comes forth. lol

was easy as all I needed was a 14mm socket and open wrench.
that is after lifting the vehicle and taking the tires off.

use the wrench to hold the rod (sway bar link) and the socket for the top. unscrew both sides. then lift up on the sway bar adn it should come up to clear the link's.

then slide off the rubber bushings and washers. I had to use a flat head screw driver to aid in this cause mine were rusted and crusty.

slap on the bottom washer, bushing (both sides) and then lower the bar and make sure both sides get in the hole right.
then put some force on the top bushing and washer to get the nut on.

tighten. I tightened to where it was tights. like it has a stop for the nut.

quit easy as it look longer to take off the tires as I have no air tool to make that cool motor sound (which I will not try and type it out lol)

hope that helps

I am sure there are more mastery ways or somthing. now i get to do it agian since my links are bent and rusted.
 
Those rods will snap eventually. Mine did on the highway and yours almost look worse. I built a set of custom rod ends for all 4 wheels that account for the lift better. I will be installing them this week.
 
No need to jack the truck up. The sway bar should move by hand if it's greased and torqued properly. Normal aftermarket endlinks are crap. If you are gonna get new endlinks anyways, I would get some WabFab quick discos if you're gonna spend the money. They are about the same price as OEM, they're longer (for your lift), they're quicker to remove, and they are waaaay stronger.
End Links & Quick Disconnects 96-02 4Runner | WabFab Off Road
 
brian2sun said:
No need to jack the truck up. The sway bar should move by hand if it's greased and torqued properly. Normal aftermarket endlinks are crap. If you are gonna get new endlinks anyways, I would get some WabFab quick discos if you're gonna spend the money. They are about the same price as OEM, they're longer (for your lift), they're quicker to remove, and they are waaaay stronger.
End Links & Quick Disconnects 96-02 4Runner | WabFab Off Road
Click to expand...

eh, the wabfabs may be longer, but they arent that much quicker? Ive heard several people time them and you can disco one side stock faster than you can undo both the wabfabs.

Here is a tip for the rear sway bars if you still run them. if you buy an extra set of front links they will extend the rear sway bar perfect for a 3rd gen lift. Thanks to CSL for that info.

Brian why no love for aftermarket? I'd bet my Moog endlinks against the factory endlinks any day. they are super beefy, may even be thicker than OEM.

Ill agree MOST non OEM brands are crap, I had OE (not OEM) for less than a year last time I broke a link and they were already bent up and almost broken.
 
brian2sun said:
No need to jack the truck up. The sway bar should move by hand if it's greased and torqued properly. Normal aftermarket endlinks are crap. If you are gonna get new endlinks anyways, I would get some WabFab quick discos if you're gonna spend the money. They are about the same price as OEM, they're longer (for your lift), they're quicker to remove, and they are waaaay stronger.
End Links & Quick Disconnects 96-02 4Runner | WabFab Off Road
Click to expand...

again sir, you corrected me. thank you Brian! i new I would get corrected on bad form lol. just sharing what i did.
although removing the tires does make it easier to get to the bolts.

thanks for the link. I will look into those. I only have 2.5in in the front. and have yet to do my Diff drop. dam bolts are tight. even though one is well oiled from previous oil changes.

thanks again.
 
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so how do the disconnects work.
I am guessing you unbolt them on the bottom and just let them hang while your wheeling. then bolt them back on when you get back on the road. or do you full take them off.

just curious
 
MTDewX8 said:
so how do the disconnects work.
I am guessing you unbolt them on the bottom and just let them hang while your wheeling. then bolt them back on when you get back on the road. or do you full take them off.

just curious
Click to expand...

well, the wabfabs are made to disco both sides and take both completely off.

technically to free up your articulation all you need to do is disco one side anyways.

so having quick discos for both sides is pointless.

I think keeping a small socket and ratchet in your glove box would work just as good.
 
when they do snap and break. either on road or off there are no major concerns that might make me fix them right away?

planning a wheeling trip when I get to Portland with some fellow forum members and friends.

got to get my diff drop on, skid plates back on and my rear bumper and sliders. with my winch hooked up. so much to do and so little time. lol
 
when they do snap and break. either on road or off are there any major concerns that might make me fix them right away?

planning a wheeling trip when I get to Portland with some fellow forum members and friends.

got to get my diff drop on, skid plates back on and my rear bumper and sliders. with my winch hooked up. so much to do and so little time. lol
 
Duhockey said:
eh, the wabfabs may be longer, but they arent that much quicker? Ive heard several people time them and you can disco one side stock faster than you can undo both the wabfabs.

Here is a tip for the rear sway bars if you still run them. if you buy an extra set of front links they will extend the rear sway bar perfect for a 3rd gen lift. Thanks to CSL for that info.

Brian why no love for aftermarket? I'd bet my Moog endlinks against the factory endlinks any day. they are super beefy, may even be thicker than OEM.

Ill agree MOST non OEM brands are crap, I had OE (not OEM) for less than a year last time I broke a link and they were already bent up and almost broken.
Click to expand...

It's funny you mention that they aren't that much quicker. I just mentioned in my build thread today that I can take my stock endlinks on/off in about 1.5 minutes per side (with a ratcheting box and an allen wrench). So I agree, the quickness of the WabFabs is marginal if they are even quicker at all. But I do believe they are superior in the other ways I mentioned and the OEM ones (I think) are about $75 per side, so they are about the same price.

I can't speak for all aftermarket endlinks, but the Beck Arnley that I bought a while back was junk. The rubber boot wasn't even sealed good from the factory. It came leaking grease. The rubber was brittle within months too, but I fixed it with Gorilla Glue. I don't know about the MOOG endlinks, but after my bad experience with their LBJs (they were totally shot and on the verge of failing in less than a year), I won't buy MOOG anything any more.

MTDewX8 said:
again sir, you corrected me. thank you Brian! i new I would get corrected on bad form lol. just sharing what i did.
although removing the tires does make it easier to get to the bolts.

thanks for the link. I will look into those. I only have 2.5in in the front. and have yet to do my Diff drop. dam bolts are tight. even though one is well oiled from previous oil changes.

thanks again.
Click to expand...

Didn't mean to "correct" you. :) I just put my sway bar back on yesterday and didn't use a jack so I thought I would chime in.

Duhockey said:
well, the wabfabs are made to disco both sides and take both completely off.

technically to free up your articulation all you need to do is disco one side anyways.

so having quick discos for both sides is pointless.

I think keeping a small socket and ratchet in your glove box would work just as good.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm not going to buy the WabFabs until my stock one (and my Gorilla Glued Beck Arnley one) are shot. I'm wondering if the WabFabs are strong enough to just wheel with? They look like it. I don't really care about the 1" of extra flex you get with them disonnected if they are strong enough to leave connected and take the stress/weight.
 
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brian2sun said:
It's funny you mention that they aren't that much quicker. I just mentioned in my build thread today that I can take my stock endlinks on/off in about 1.5 minutes per side (with a ratcheting box and an allen wrench). So I agree, the quickness of the WabFabs is marginal if they are even quicker at all. But I do believe they are superior in the other ways I mentioned and the OEM ones (I think) are about $75 per side, so they are about the same price.

I can't speak for all aftermarket endlinks, but the Beck Arnley that I bought a while back was junk. The rubber boot wasn't even sealed good from the factory. It came leaking grease. The rubber was brittle within months too, but I fixed it with Gorilla Glue. I don't know about the MOOG endlinks, but after my bad experience with their LBJs (they were totally shot and on the verge of failing in less than a year), I won't buy MOOG anything any more.



Didn't mean to "correct" you. :) I just put my sway bar back on yesterday and didn't use a jack so I thought I would chime in.



Yeah, I'm not going to buy the WabFabs until my stock one (and my Gorilla Glued Beck Arnley one) are shot. I'm wondering if the WabFabs are strong enough to just wheel with? They look like it. I don't really care about the 1" of extra flex you get with them disonnected if they are strong enough to leave connected and take the stress/weight.
Click to expand...


I am not offended Brian, so no worries.
I am learning as I go and read. will do a price check tomorrrow and see how it goes. but with no income as school just got out and finals are done I want to play a little before I get a job. lol

I appriciate all you and the forum folks offer as on information and experiance. its worth its weight in gold.

by the way, I still have yet to do the spin test to figure out exactly what gear ratio I have. did the dry pavement 4 wheel drive and no funny or bad noises. so I guess I got lucky on what ever gearing I have since I replaced my rear axle.
 
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