Sway Bar Hitting factory E-locker

[IsaiahC]

Since lifting my 4runner, I've been hearing noises when hitting bumps. I put Toytech superflexes and extended bilstein 5100s (recommended). I searched the forum and people suggested getting longer end links. So, I swapped out my stock end links for some 2nd gen 4runner end links and the noise is still there. It may have even gotten worst. When messing with my sway bar, I noticed that it rubs slightly on what I think is the e-locker housing. So, has anyone fixed this without removing the sway bar entirely? I'm not a huge fan of that option after buying longer end links. I also suspect that it could be some other things including:
1. Coil Slap with the progressive superflex coils (Spare tire isn't mounted)
2. Shock moving around in the upper shock mount (I wasn't able to torque that nut and after I finished installation, I realized I mounted the bushings the wrong way.)
3. End links not tightened enough to the upper mount (I ran out of threads on the end link and had to add a washer as a spacer; didn't torque).
Any thoughts would be great. People who have experienced and fixed similar problems would be even better.

 

[IsaiahC]

Added pictures to give a context of what could be causing the noise.

 

[bugman-74]

Rear sway bar contact with elocker housing is a common issue with certain lifts. It is definitely an issue that needs to be fixed prior to elocker damage...

Sonoransteel's kit includes some relocation brackets to solve this problem. I'm not sure if they are available separately, but you could contact Steve and find out. Alternatively you could make them yourself if so inclined.

 

[IsaiahC]

I might just fab something up. It's just barely rubbing so a couple pieces of steel acting as spacers might be enough. As far as the coil slap, I'm going to put my spare on and see if that helps.

 

[MountainBiker]

Two fixes for the e-locker rub:
1. remover rear anti sway bar (this is what I did after installing superflex coils)
2. extend the length of the anti sway bar end links. Several companies make them.

 

[98WhiteT4R]

I've had my rear sway bar off for about a year now and it doesn't seem to make a difference.

 

[MStudt]

Two fixes for the e-locker rub:
1. remover rear anti sway bar (this is what I did after installing superflex coils)
2. extend the length of the anti sway bar end links. Several companies make them.

Many places do not make longer swaybar links. At least not for 3rd Gen's.

You can remove the links all together if you can deal with the body roll. About 85% of your vehicles body roll comes from the rear, so be warned. You can add a spacer to the swaybar mounting location. Or I sell longer links that you will not break. It looks like you're still running stock links, and that is the problem. The short links are causing the swaybar to droop.

 

[IsaiahC]

I put in 2nd gen end links which are about 1 inch longer than stock. I haven't had the bar off since then so I'm not sure if it's hitting anymore. The contact that was occurring was very minimal to begin with. Mostly just the dirt from my sway bar rubbing the dirt on the locker. I still have the noise so I'm guessing it's coil slap from my progressive superflex coils. I have a trailer hitch cargo carrier that I'm going to load with something heavy then see if the coils still slap. If so, I think I'll look into getting some 8-9 wrap lc coils.
Not that it's all too related but since I neglected to install the diff drop I purchased, my driver side inner cv boot shit the bed and my passenger side is seeping. I've been chasing problems since installation

 

[MountainBiker]

Before I put the Superflex coils in, a car mechanic I knew suggested wrapping the "dead" coils with a purpose made material that he gave me. Since it has been on there since day one, I can't tell you if the coils would make the noise without the stuff. I can't tell you where to get the stuff, since I'm no longer in contact with the guy.

If you want to test if the "dead" coils are making the noise, then put some spiral cable wrap on there (radio shack has it.) Not sure how long it will last, but it's a cheap and fast way to find out if that is the source.

BTW, I have long been an advocate of maintaining the use of anti-sway bars for safety on the road. However, after my lift, I was getting a lot of trailing throttle oversteer on the road. So I killed two birds with one stone by removing the rear bar. The Icon's are a bit aggressive on the low speed compression damping, so they mitigate body roll enough for my satisfaction on the road. Admittedly, it is too much compression damping on the dirt, so I may be looking to reinstall the rear anti sway bar when I get around to re-valving the Icons, probably in 2016. So I may be hitting up MStudt for his extended links!

 

[Diezel]

Two fixes for the e-locker rub:
1. remover rear anti sway bar (this is what I did after installing superflex coils)
2. extend the length of the anti sway bar end links. Several companies make them.

In all my years of experience with lifting and lowering vehicles. That is the number one over looked problem.

Sway Bar Endlinks are Super important.

 

[Scramble]

Question?

So has everyone who added extended length sway bar end links solved the problem of the sway bar hitting the e-locker housing?

Thanks in advance!

 

[JohnMc]

I'm using 2nd gen front links on the rear of my lifted 3rd gen as well, no issues. I also have the sway bar relocation brackets too, part of my SS lift kit.

 

[St Runner]

It did not help on mine. The problem is that the swaybar rotates on the axle attachment brackets. No matter what you do to the ends of the swaybar it will not change where the bar rotates and it is still going to hit the locker. I made a homemade bracket that raised it a couple inches but in retrospect I could have ovaled out or redrilled the holes on the axle bracket and raised the bar the 1/4 to 1/2 inch i needed to clear

 

[96 ToyRunner]

Can anyone post a pic of there homemade brackets to fix the issue mines doing it and Sonoran steel only sells them in the lift kit package ( I emailed them)I really need to fix this

 

[96RedRunner]

Call Sonoran Steel they have them for $30-40 they don't show them on website.
This was just discussed last week on this forum, Steve said they sell them.
If you want to make your own center the swaybar on the upper mount bolt, take your measurements
From there.

 

[96 ToyRunner]

Call Sonoran Steel they have them for $30-40 they don't show them on website.
This was just discussed last week on this forum, Steve said they sell them.
If you want to make your own center the swaybar on the upper mount bolt, take your measurements
From there.

Thank you for the reply back I’ve spent a large part of the day trying to make a set and needless to say I failed but I have on piece now to go by and make a set “hopefully lol”

 

[96 ToyRunner]

So I got the brackets and I have the toytec 3 inch lift and the brackets work great

 

[Scramble]

Just for added info for the thread. I called Steve at SS to order his ext brackets. He said that that they only come in the 1.2 kit. I told him I had the 7.2 kit but switched to 8 wraps. After a few back & forth e-mails he now sells these separately & are available on his website.

 

[96RedRunner]

Just for added info for the thread. I called Steve at SS to order his ext brackets. He said that that they only come in the 1.2 kit. I told him I had the 7.2 kit but switched to 8 wraps. After a few back & forth e-mails he now sells these separately & are available on his website.

Hell back middle of June he said he sold them separately in a thread, made it sound like call and order. When did you talk with him back n forth?

 

[Scramble]

Hell back middle of June he said he sold them separately in a thread, made it sound like call and order. When did you talk with him back n forth?

I'm guessing June, you dont have to call now, just add to cart & order. I also ordered the rear body mounts.