Sway bar links gone bad?
- Thread starter Bumbo
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Bumbo
New member
Should I remove the rears too?
What could I expect to feel in regards to handling?
This is more of a trail / desert truck to me, but I still have to freeway for 1-2 hours to get to most of my destinations...
...and after adding a flat rack and load it up my spring/shock combo starts to feel a little weak in the knees when on the highway...
What could I expect to feel in regards to handling?
This is more of a trail / desert truck to me, but I still have to freeway for 1-2 hours to get to most of my destinations...
...and after adding a flat rack and load it up my spring/shock combo starts to feel a little weak in the knees when on the highway...
Ralphman
New member
I love it and have both removed the ride in my opinion is berrer especially up from but that just my opinion didn't notice realy any straight line difference with the rear removed but took it off anyways. You will naturally have more body roll but if your comfortable with that and remember that its a 5300lb lifted suv and not a miata you will be fine.
Bumbo
New member
I get it...
What is your current suspension setup like?
I am actually more of a spirited desert driver than someone who rock crawls... would that change your opinion of if I should keep or delete?
I really need to get some shocks with adjusters so I can tune this thing...
Ralphman
New member
5100s with the threaded collers, the eibach prings from toytec and super flex in the rear with 5100s, im by no means a granny behind the wheel and 2wd so no rock crawling for me. Had a 1/4 cord of oak loaded in the back before and it squatted the rear but i took it easy on that drive but never feared for my life. Only you can decide if you like it with out the sway bars, I recommend you start with the front as its super easy to remove, rear isnt bad just requires removal of a tire and snaking it through
NinjaOne
New member
I ran w/out the front for 1k miles with OME 885 springs/shocks. I also drive rather spirited..... :bump2: I didn't notice a huge difference when I removed (even with a a 150lb steel bumper) I ended up reinstalling because I was moving and needed a space to store the swaybar, I did notice a difference when I reinstalled. Steering was noticeably tighter and more controlled with my 'slightly' aggressive driving style. I also have poly swaybar bushings on and those tighten it even more....
I felt safe either way and would feel comfortable removing it again (for non-towing) When/if I get a 650# spring or higher I'll likely remove the front again. My 285s rub on it currently at full lock. I'm also at somewhere between 4.5° and 5.5° of caster and that helps with the steering/handling w/out the swaybar as well somewhat
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Bumbo
New member
I tried it once... and only for a very short time (1-2 days) with minimal testing soon after I installed the lift on the 6112.
It was most noticeable on the highway. My girl drove it too and she didn't really appreciate the sensation of roll. Considering this was all around a time when we were doing road trips across states, the bars went back on.
Now a day the 4Runner is only used for weekend excursions which are generally local desert... I can probably get away without it, but on road I think I would like to keep them on.
You do have to drive it more carefully... I can see that becoming annoying or causing fatigue if this thing stays on the road most of the time.
Its just been so long since I tried it without...
The Yin
Member
Thanks for the idea
I don't have any comments about the sway bar. I have both mine, and replaced my links recently with Moog (2nd Gen links in rear for some extra length)
My main reason for commenting is to say 'thanks' for giving me the idea of marking my nut/bolt locations! I've read/heard the thought before, but hadn't seen it in action.
I don't have any comments about the sway bar. I have both mine, and replaced my links recently with Moog (2nd Gen links in rear for some extra length)
My main reason for commenting is to say 'thanks' for giving me the idea of marking my nut/bolt locations! I've read/heard the thought before, but hadn't seen it in action.
Bumbo
New member
I appreciate that you appreciate it...
I have a habit of whiteness/index marking everything I touch these days.
Here is a link to the paint pen I used... its held up great. The markings you are looking at are over a year old.
https://www.amazon.com/BRITE-MARK-Medium-Paint-Marker-Orange/dp/B003TQXSBA/ref=pd_ybh_a_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BSGZ83TF7RSGQ0CMQ4WG
Most things I work on I index mark it after its been torqued down and finalized to "cross it off the list"
Before any major off-road trip or when I am working on the truck it only takes seconds to make sure nothing moved. If I ever need to remove something and dont have my torque tools, I can always just try and match the index lines up to get close to that torque value as well.
I even do it on electrical... makes for a quick trouble shooting or reliability spot-check when you can do it visually without a tool in my hand.
I know I dont need to do it, but it makes me feel batter haha.
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Bumbo
New member
So, if I do want to fix it, what do you recommend I use.
AND... if I dont fix it and just leave it be... what happens over time? Does it just get noisy or does it fail and break?
I generally carry tools on the trail, but its not because I want to wrench on my car out there. I try to avoid having to jump in the tool bag for any reason.
AND... if I dont fix it and just leave it be... what happens over time? Does it just get noisy or does it fail and break?
I generally carry tools on the trail, but its not because I want to wrench on my car out there. I try to avoid having to jump in the tool bag for any reason.
Ralphman
New member
Are the the oe sway bar links? And how many miles are on them? If you feel like you got your moneys worth out of them and have been happy with the performance of them then I would go oem. If you want to save some money go with an after market manufacturer. Do you have sway bar drop relocators? If not get some so it puts less stress on the the ball joints on the endlinks.
Bumbo
New member
I got about 201k+ and it must have just happened because I just did lines 100 miles ago. Also looked pretty fresh when I saw it.
No I dont have any sway bar drop relocaters. Mind giving a link? This sounds like a good idea... perhaps that would create less bias for the sway bar working? Basically keeping it there buy de-tuning it a little?
I might go OEM, I would still like to have a good functioning set, but ill make that determination after I remove them again and drive the truck around.
Ralphman
New member
SBR-129 - Front Sway Bar Relocate Kit
I know other people make them but this is what i have just looking pretty with no bar for some reason, they are about a inch thick.
You got your money's worth out of them, I would say go oem and hope to get your money's worth again.
I know other people make them but this is what i have just looking pretty with no bar for some reason, they are about a inch thick.
You got your money's worth out of them, I would say go oem and hope to get your money's worth again.
BackOff
New member
https://wheelersoffroad.com/product...sion-parts-379639/sbr-129-sway-bar-relocates/
One thing about pulling the front sway bar off, if your a desert rally type you may slam the UCA into the top of the wheel well. Good bump stops help...superbumps.
I had my front bar off for about 5 years, then after I moved up to the 285 size tires I had to put the bar back on because the weight of the tire felt like it was really working the struts, I need new front struts/coilovers/heavier coils too, mine are toast.
One thing about pulling the front sway bar off, if your a desert rally type you may slam the UCA into the top of the wheel well. Good bump stops help...superbumps.
I had my front bar off for about 5 years, then after I moved up to the 285 size tires I had to put the bar back on because the weight of the tire felt like it was really working the struts, I need new front struts/coilovers/heavier coils too, mine are toast.
Bumbo
New member
Interesting... sounds like adding a bunch of un-sprung weight can really change the way it feels. What front suspension setup are you running?
Thanks for the tip... ill keep an eye on the travel of the UCA with them off. I do have a set of superbumps but the last couple times I bottomed out I really felt like I can really blow though them if its a hard enough bump... also felt like I was under-sprung in the front.
If I could do it over I would have went with a 650lb spring instead of the 600lb spring on the 6112, even for a stock weight truck. I could use the headroom.
Perhaps its time to move to a progressive valved shock... Once you blow though the initial stiffness of a digressive it almost feels like there is nothing to catch you. Would have been great to have an internal bypass with a bump zone in the last 1-2 inches of compression... but here I am going off topic on my own thread.
BackOff
New member
Shrockworks on the front too, so lots of weight.
I have the Rancho QuickLift 9000xl, I cant seem to find any info on the coils.
They are heavier than stock. I don't think the shocks last long, maybe 30k.
I put new on the rear last week, helped a lot, one old shock wont rebound anymore after you compress it.
I am sure the fronts are shot too.
But hey, only $525 for a set front and rear.
The stock coil diameter are 15mm(passenger) 16mm(driver) @580-590lbs?
Rancho are 17mm
OME 2886 are 17.5/17.8mm(claim 18mm) @660lbs
