Swaybar Bushing Upgrade

[4Rnr4Evr]

Been reading and trying to decide what I want. I'll summarize what I read and sorry if I repeat something already mentioned, didn't read this thread in its entirety.


First of all this seems to be pretty cool if you have no digital caliper

Free Sway Bar Measuring Tool - Suspension.com

Actually might be easier to work with than the caliper in tight spaces

Our choices in swaybar bushings:

- MOOG thermoplastic, claimed to be "as hard as poly without the squeaking". I read somewhere that MOOG is moving away from rubber and all their bushings in the future will be from this material

- ES red and black poly
-- black poly has graphite (hence the "G" suffix), red has no graphite, so black should be the preferred choice. I am inclined to think all the squeaking complaints come from red bushings + improper greasing.

- Prothane - poly but harder than ES. ES claims each of their bushings is specifically rated in hardness for its particular application. Like ES they have red and black, and black has graphite.

---
There are 2 more options which don't seem to be specifically available for 4Runners but likely they have something that would fit

- PST polygraphite, poly infused with graphite to eliminate the need for lubrication. In theory. I've read comments that in practice it doesn't work well.

- Whiteline, a big Aussie company which is growing rapidly in the US. They call their bushings "synthetic elastomer" but it seems it's just polyurethane in the end. However they have PTFE lining which in theory should significantly reduce the need for extra lube.

Here's a long detailed article if you feel like getting to the bottom of things

Prothane vs Whiteline - Which Brand Should You To Choose? - Suspension.com

Actually this site seems to have a lot of well put together info, like here

Polyurethane versus Rubber - Suspension.com

A long time ago in a galaxy far far away I had a sports car on which I had the ENTIRE suspension rebuilt with black ES poly bushings. I mean every suspension bushing there is on the vehicle, subframe mounts, control arms, everything. It did not ride harsh at all and it handled fantastic. No squeaking at all. So I have had good experience with ES and will likely go that way. I would like to try the Whiteline stuff but I'm not sure if they have the right parts. Maybe I'll ask them.

 

[banilla16]

Question for everyone: how did you get access to the rear driver bushing? I’m not able to get the upper bolt because of the gas tank. I feel like I’m missing something here...


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[4Rnr4Evr]

I just measured mine, 2008 4WD V6 Limited, front 30mm, rear 19mm.

 

[steveni70]

Question for everyone: how did you get access to the rear driver bushing? I’m not able to get the upper bolt because of the gas tank. I feel like I’m missing something here...


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My 2007 may be different, but it's doable, just more difficult than the front. Using a breaker bar, you don't have much room before the handle hits the ground. I did my front first, then the rear a couple weeks later. I noticed a bit of difference with the front, but nothing after I did the rear, so I wouldn't kill yourself to get them on. Also, I think you have to use the existing brackets since they have a hook to keep them in place, so if you bought greasable bushings, you won't have the grease nipple.

 

[earthrealm]

With each case being a little different, let's at least put mine to rest. My specific clunk is gone from the 2006 V6 4X4 in my driveway using the parts identified earlier.

did you apply grease during the installation or inject grease through the nipple after the installation?

i did mine yesterday..and tried pumping in grease and some grease squirted out between the bushing and the metal u cover, doesnt seem normal to me...and my clunk apppears worse,,,,,way wprse than before the repair

 

[4Rnr4Evr]

Tonight I installed ES 29mm front and 19mm rear black poly bushings. Did not install the rear end link bushings because I didn't want to take off the wheels - I'll be doing that soon for something else and then I'll throw them in.

The 29mm ES bushing did fit over my 30mm bar but not perfectly (well duh) and I imagine it will not last. I basically expected it but felt like experimenting since it's a pretty easy thing to swap. I will try to find a 30mm ES bushing. However these do the job and while my truck didn't suddenly turn into a sports car the difference in handling is pretty obvious.

EDIT: I think this is it

Front Sway Bar Bushing - 30mm | Toyota Tacoma | 8.5140

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/8.5140

I'll try it when I have nothing better to do.

 

[mizak82]

for the greasable ones.. is it bracket A or B?

thanks..

I measured i was 30mm, 19mm.. 07 v6 4x4 sport..

 

[mizak82]

I did this upgrade the other day. Rear 19mm went on perfect. Used the metal bracket that came with the bushings it fit snug. The stock bracket was super loose.

The front however.. it seemed one bolt on each side of the brackets didn’t want to come off. Thought I was going to snap the head which I didn’t want to do. Luckily the stock bracket hole was open ended on those bolts so I could just slide it off. The aftermarket bracket was not. I got lucky that the stock bracket fit snug on the bushings in the front.

So the brackets are mismatching. But snug. It does feel flatter in turns. We will see over time.


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[offshorebear]

I did front and rear bushings, as well as rear end links.

I prematurely used a torch on all the bushing bolts, and then while it was hot hit it with WD40 Specialists stuff. Worked quite well, didn't break any of the bolts on my rusty 2004. Replaced the brackets and bolts with new. The rear left sway bar had a deformity in it. Half of it was a much larger OD than nominal. I just squished the bushing down but I bet that one will be the first to fail.

Both end links did break really easily so I replaced with Moog. I did not enjoy grinding right next to the gas tank.

Filled everything up with Mobile 1 red.

I did the front a few days before the rears. It made a good improvement in steering feel and the clunk went away. Then I did the rears and its a great improvement in handling and steering. I wasn't expecting such an impact on the steering. It helps makes up a bit for my poor alignment.

So far I think great mod, and I was a fool for not doing it sooner. Only the rear end links showed any cracking, but I think the bushings were worn out even if they looked ok on the outside.

 

[Whammy]

For those who used the prothane bushings and have changed the zerk fittings to 90 degree angle fittings, what size zerk fitting did you use?

 

[2k1]

2007 V8 4WD, my bars measure front 30mm, rear 19mm

All moog products that claim to be maintenance free and do not need grease:

Sway Bar Bushings:

Front: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CA22H6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Rear: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HPYO6O/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


Sway Bar End Links:
Front Left: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZKY2U/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Front Right: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000JZMWTS/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Rear (you will need to purchase 2): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00180MSY2/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

 

[theladyviola]

For those who used the prothane bushings and have changed the zerk fittings to 90 degree angle fittings, what size zerk fitting did you use?

I’m pretty sure I posted that info somewhere in the thread.


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[RDOOGZ89]

Has anyone installed the 30mm prothanes and brackets up front with relocation blocks installed? Do any modifications need to be done to the brackets?

 

[Benny123]

Prepping to do this. If the nutsert breaks off, is the top or side open to get a new nut on, or would I have to cut a hole in the frame?

Planning on sawing off the bolt otherwise if it happens.

 

[aparker81]

Prepping to do this. If the nutsert breaks off, is the top or side open to get a new nut on, or would I have to cut a hole in the frame?

Planning on sawing off the bolt otherwise if it happens.

There is a hole big enough to stick your finger in to feel the loose nut. The nut is most likely so rusted, cutting it off is the best way to remove it. Both front bolts on my brackets have done this.

I wish to keep the sway bar on and want to find a way to hold the nut in place while properly tightening the bolt. I need to find the correct size of the original nut and bolt and then cut off the current ones. I think I can fish a nut through and hold it in place while feeding the bolt into it. I think jamming a flat blade screwdriver between the nut and frame will hold it in place to then tighten it properly. I may dab some JB Weld on the outer edges of the nut to hold it down once hopefully tightened.

Otherwise, I've read this thread but don't quite understand how it all comes together. It might benefit you: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/251925-solution-sway-bar-bushing-bracket-broken-nut.html

Good luck.

Edit: Further research: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...ded-swaybar-mount-nut-bolt-just-spins.449834/

 

[whorerunning]

I just measured my front and rear sway bars with my digital caliper:

2005 V6 2WD Sport

F: 29mm
R: 21mm

Ordered up some energy poly bushings, black ones, and have had great results with their bushings on my Tundra for the steering rack, LCA, and sway bars/links.

 

[2003-4x4runner]

Replaced my bushings a few months ago, and what a big difference. I wish I would have done this years ago.

215k miles on my 2003 V6 4WD
Front sway bar 30mm
Rear sway bar 21mm

 

[ZebRuaj]

Another quick update as I just corresponded with Prothane a bit more. If you're wanting to replace your grease fittings with 45 or 90 degree, they are 1/4-28 in size.


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Thanks for this. Just did my fronts (30mm) and ordered the rear after measuring (19mm). Gonna have to go pick up some 90* fittings to replace the Prothane fitting.

 

[Don Corleone]

Thanks for this. Just did my fronts (30mm) and ordered the rear after measuring (19mm). Gonna have to go pick up some 90* fittings to replace the Prothane fitting.

Are those the measurements for a Sport model? Can you link which ones you've seen?

 

[ZebRuaj]

Are those the measurements for a Sport model? Can you link which ones you've seen?

Most everyone confirms that its a 30mm front. Rear's seem to be 21 or 19mm. I bought 21mm cause I was to lazy to check/measure. Turns out I need 19mm. A few have said you can find the size stamping on the OE rubber.

I believe the products are listed on post #1. Prothane and Energy Suspension seem to be the favorites. We are using universal bushings, just need the right diameter. Or get OE like replacements off Rockauto.

As to the 90* zerk, you'll need it for the driver side rear. It pokes right at the gas tank skid. It's near impossible to get a grease gun to it unless your fitting is angled down. The passenger side fitting is un-obstructed.

My only advice is double check your bolts and make sure you get get them off/re-use them. Soak em down as much as possible before hand. And take off the driver side rear tire for access. Gives you so much more room for activities.