Swing Arm Camera Relocate Tutorial
- Thread starter LawnDart
- Start date
LawnDart
Senior Member
Bike rack and something coming up that's kinda secret squirrel.
And I do have a build thread.
Scharfschütze
New member
Looking for a 6v camera, seems to be some on aliexpress. Thanks for the write up.
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midnite4runner
New member
Thanks for the write up. I just relocated the stock camera and filled in the gap with some silicone where it was mounted in the original location. I don't think there will be any water penetration. The camera mount is just a press fit gasket so I think the sealant will be fine and will save me a couple hundred for a replacement. I also don't plan on selling the truck.
I also ordered a long cable from that company you listed, but the connectors didn't fit. I just spliced it into the existing cable instead of sending it back and it seems to be working fine.
I also ordered a long cable from that company you listed, but the connectors didn't fit. I just spliced it into the existing cable instead of sending it back and it seems to be working fine.
Thanks for the thoughtful and clear description of relocating your camera! I'm wondering what you think about mounting the camera on the bottom surface of the wind deflector that houses the rear window wiper (in the vicinity of third brake light).I've had a LOT of questions sent my way about this mod, since I think I *may* be the first one to tackle it.
Essentially here's the challenge: For those of us running a swing away tire carrier, you're blocking the view of the factory camera in the tailgate. As such you get a sweet view of the back of the table for most aftermarket bumpers, especially the CBI. This makes backing up to a trailer especially difficult, or parking your truck in urban scenarios where an aftermarket bumper would absolutely DESTROY anything you backed into, people or vehicle included.
Solution: I didn't want to relocate the existing camera, as that would expose the inside to elements unnecessarily, and especially in the PNW that would lead to issues down the road. So I wanted to essentially bypass the camera with another OEM style camera.
The challenge is that the OEM camera is 6v, not the more common 12v. A 12v will work, but it's likely to either burn out or not work reliably. The solution came in the form of this kit:
https://camera-source.com/10-15-tacoma-license-plate-camper-camera-kit-plug-and-play.html
Not cheap, but 2-300 less than another factor OEM camera from Toyota or any other source such resource (Camelbak, etc.) This is the same cameras in in the Toyota systems, just as a plug and play backup unit and not in the same enclosure.
It has 4 leads: positive, negative, ground/trigger, and one that enables or disabled the parking line overlays (more on this later).
This kit is intended for use with the Tacomas, where accessing the harness is pretty simple since it's in the tailgate. But this is a 4Runner so it can't be that simple. So here's the challenge, getting the wiring from the tailgate (at the camera) to the swing arm.
The solution is simple but you'll have to call Camera Source and request a much longer cable harness. How much longer? LONG. Like 19' feet long. That's feet, not inches. Why? Because to get from inside the tailgate you'll have to snake up the tailgate, through the rubber connector from the tailgate into the headliner, down the driver D-pillar, under the leading edge of the cargo area scuff panel, out a grommet on the passenger side, and then under the vehicle...AND then you can go out to the swing arm. The distances are generally the same between the dual and single swing arms. If your camera sits on the driver side you obviously save 4-5' by not having to go across/under the kick panel.
The only cutting, splicing, soldering will be when you cut the plug off the factory tailgate backup camera. I searched for a week trying to find that connector, to essentially make an extension cord, but realized it was a waste of time because I had no intention of ever reverting back to the tailgate camera.
Once you make the cable run you can connect the camera. While I may eventually drill and tap holes for the mount bracket, we used 30+lb 3M semi-permanent tape, which is ridiculously strong but easy to remove down the road. We're also currently using cable keeper for the looming, but may eventually go to something more permanent with the use of those self tapping P-shaped cable brackets. But for now this works fantastic.
The end result is you get your camera back, and it's flexible for use with aftermarket swing aways.
Hope this helps. Figuring out the cable run, sourcing the camera, were all more time intensive than the install, which I'd say was maybe 1-2 hours max to make it clean.
LawnDart
Senior Member
Wouldn't really be that helpful, I need the camera to see where my hitch is when I'm backing up to the trailer. Seeing down from that wind faring isn't going to give me as much info as I need to not back into something.
mAtTyGlaz
New member
Anyone else tackle this? Looking for more ideas. I kind of like the location of the sos kit:
https://www.southernstyleoffroad.com/product/rearview-camera-relocate-kit/
https://www.southernstyleoffroad.com/product/rearview-camera-relocate-kit/
coletrain09
New member
[MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION]- It looks like the camera is well protected under your second hitch. I have the same dual swing out but no second hitch, so that space on the passenger side swing doesn't look as appealing.
What are your thoughts on these 2 locations on the driver side swing? Would also shorten the cable run. (A) would be preferred getting some protection from the license plate light. Unsure if that light would skew camera visibility at night.
I want to be able to see behind for backing up of course but really want to be able to see my hitch for backing into a trailer.
What are your thoughts on these 2 locations on the driver side swing? Would also shorten the cable run. (A) would be preferred getting some protection from the license plate light. Unsure if that light would skew camera visibility at night.
I want to be able to see behind for backing up of course but really want to be able to see my hitch for backing into a trailer.
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mAtTyGlaz
New member
I have the same setup as you. Thinking of going passenger side and putting camera in spare tire mount
Xtremluck
New member
Why not put it on the bottom of the rear spoiler? That way you can actually see how much space you have before your rear tire carrier makes contact with an object. That's what I'm planning on doing when my bumper comes in.
JSparky
New member
I wouldn’t mind checking out how you do that. I’ve been lazy and haven’t bothered moving my camera yet. I’ve got a Clarion lighted licenses plate frame and backup camera holder that I use on my cruiser with success, was just going to do the same here. Having it up high could be nice though.
coletrain09
New member
Spoiler might be interesting to try. Unsure whether I could still get good enough visibility for backing into a trailer tongue. I'd be interested if someone has tested this?
Mounting inside the spare on the swing arm seems like I for sure wouldn't be able to see the ball/tongue final line up. My spare is angled up from CBI which makes that issue slightly worse than a flat mount.
Mounting inside the spare on the swing arm seems like I for sure wouldn't be able to see the ball/tongue final line up. My spare is angled up from CBI which makes that issue slightly worse than a flat mount.
Prototype_X9
New member
Can anyone verify if the kit [MENTION=124732]LawnDart[/MENTION] showed in the OP is the same connector as the factory 4 runner camera? Not afraid to cut wires, just wanted to confirm. Need my camera back.
Scharfschütze
New member
I am about to FINALLY tackle this.
Shouldn't we be able to tap 12v from anywhere and run a regular cheap 12v camera, and then just use the signal/ground from the OEM camera to trigger it when you put the truck in reverse. Seems like it would simplify things and open up many options for cameras. Can tap 12v from the trailer plug easy peazy.
I'm going to try that unless someone has a good reason not to.
Shouldn't we be able to tap 12v from anywhere and run a regular cheap 12v camera, and then just use the signal/ground from the OEM camera to trigger it when you put the truck in reverse. Seems like it would simplify things and open up many options for cameras. Can tap 12v from the trailer plug easy peazy.
I'm going to try that unless someone has a good reason not to.
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Okusputokus
New member
For the camera I just ordered a used one from a wrecking yard for $80 (car-part.com) This way I can leave the original and only have to worry about wiring to new location. Just ordered the Pelfrey relocation mount. Should have this done by end of next week.
Daohaus
New member
i like this idea, if you dont need visibility to the hitch and you just need to "see" what you're backing into. This would save a lot of headache having to route the loom everywhere.
Okusputokus
New member
Adding some options here
Like my earlier post I mentioned I had ordered a used OEM back up camera from a wrecking yard $48. This made it much easier so I could leave the original camera, just unplug it, and luckily they had sent me the short wiring harness with the used camera so I could cut it in half and use it on my re-route lines. I routed my wires from the original camera location up the drivers side hatch window, through the rubber loom, along the top of the hatch opening to the passenger side, down the passenger side brake lamp and out the lower trim. Had to drill a hold, paint, and installed a rubber grommet to get the wiring outside the truck. Worked great.
This pic is upside down or however you want to interpret it.
Like my earlier post I mentioned I had ordered a used OEM back up camera from a wrecking yard $48. This made it much easier so I could leave the original camera, just unplug it, and luckily they had sent me the short wiring harness with the used camera so I could cut it in half and use it on my re-route lines. I routed my wires from the original camera location up the drivers side hatch window, through the rubber loom, along the top of the hatch opening to the passenger side, down the passenger side brake lamp and out the lower trim. Had to drill a hold, paint, and installed a rubber grommet to get the wiring outside the truck. Worked great.
This pic is upside down or however you want to interpret it.
