Switching to full synthetic from full conventional.

Depends on the oil and condition of the engine. I warn everyone about using modern oils in older engines. The SAPs content is far lower than older oils and the composition is somewhat different. In newer engines its not an issues since they have such tight clearances and better oiling systems. But on older engines the sacrifical layer is important. I've seen a 22RE Camshaft on a rebuilt engine with all the lobes turned into circles after only 50k because the customer used high quality synthetic oil. (He was, it was great oil no argument there.) but he needed a camshaft additive package to provide a sacrifical layer to protect the components.



Toyota technically does specify a synthetic oil change interval. All our newer models use 0-20 synthetic which we advertise as being able to sustain 10k oil change periods. One of our upsell gimmicks is to offer the 0-20 to olders models that could take both 5-10 & 0-20 to get that "longer oil change interval."

That being said, the best way to find your oil change interval is to sample it and send it out and find out what the engine is doing to the oil. Modern oils are much more complex and better formulated than older oil, most conventional oil these days performs as good as synthetics did a decade ago. Mixing the two is no longer an issue.

Good stuff, I diden't think our engines were approved for the 0w20 yet. When I had my 2011 v6 Tacoma (had to sell as 3 cars eats don't fit) the techs at Toyota put in 5w20. When I noticed what they were doing I questioned them and they said they get a better price on 5w20 than the recommended 5w30 that the manual specifies. Does this sound right? I don't think so but that's Toyotacare I guess. Nothing is ever free u gotta question and fight for the proper oil change!
But then again I am super picky and never hire anyone to work on my trucks as my dad is a mechanic by trade for the last 40 years. I have learnd quite a bit from him and following things such as torque specs and mfg suggested maintenance with the speced parts makes trucks last so much longer! Not that I don't trust mechanics but I am probably the most picky person you can ever meet.

FYI I use 5w30 Mobil 1 synthetic oil 8k mile intervals with a Toyota filter. I know it's a little longer than the suggested change interval but I have tested my oil up to 10k and still was good! It's not the 1980 anymore oil lasts way longer and lubes way better.
 
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I think this is the first time I have posted in the 4th gen thread lol. If you want to learn a little about synthetics either visit bobistheoilguy.com or there is some good threads on this subject in the 5th gen section. Thanks
 
I changed mine to Mobil 1 at 60,000 miles and its been that way for the last 55,000 miles. Get mine at Wal Mart for anywhere from $21-24 bucks per 5 quart jug. Inside of my engine is nice and clean and it still runs very smooth.
 
Good stuff, I diden't think our engines were approved for the 0w20 yet. .

For a 2006 1GRFE V6, they are NOT "approved" by Toyota for the 0W20. If you have a 2010 4Runner (see chart in the link below), then yes you can use the zero weight oil.

Toyota Oil Recommendation - PDF

However, I don't think it will hurt anything. People, let's not forget there are many Toyota V6s out there that have high miles and have used "regular and synthetic" oil all there service life.

IIRC, the 1GR-FE engine was original approved for 5W30, but Toyota changed to 5W20 for better economy.
 
I've never heard synthetic goes to 15k safely. I always heard 7-9k max out of synthetic.

Sh!t, if thats true, I'm at 15,100 miles since last change. Oil looks squeaky clean on the dipstick. Will be changing tomorrow.

Ex did her first oil change at 50,000 miles and her dad couldn't get the filter off so that was changed at 55,000 mile! :lmao:
 
I thought full synthetic could go 8-10k miles. No?

Don't forget oil degradation is not just due to loss of lubricity due to the molecule breaking down, but the problem is contamination damage to the oil. It doesn't matter how expensive your oil is it will still get contaminated and need to be changed. I know a mechanic who just users conventional oil and changes every 3000 kms due to this reason. At that mileage the lubricity breakdown between conventional and synthetic would not be that great
 
The only real way to know how long you can run you oil is to send samples to Blackstone labs for testing. 10-15k OCI is not uncommon for certain vehicle-oil combinations. But until you get a sample tested blanket statements of 5k or 10k or 15k only should be avoided.

On her Honda with Pennzoil Platinum the lab results indicated 10-12k OCI was optimal. On my Audi with auto-x days mixed in, using Total oil the OCI from the lab results suggested 5-6k. Track days drop it down lower. Maybe a different oil/driving conditions would change the OCI. But I send in a sample every 3 changes to keep an eye on wear and contaminants.
 
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I made the switch and all seems well. Didnt notice much of a change so far but we'll see what it looks like at 5k miles. Also greased drive shafts, used 1 can of brake cleaner per caliper and rotated tires. I chose the 5w30 full syntheitc. Thanks for all the replies.
 
Oil change

If you change your oil and filter religously at 3000 miles, than conventional oil would be adequate (decent brand) and save yourself the cost differntial from synthetics. Most who use synthetics are trying to get longer oil change intervals (5000+) or high mileage/heavier load use.
 
Amsoil

I have 168k on my 4.7 running the signature series Amsoil full syn and change it and the 15k Amsoil filter between 10-15k miles. I also run their engine flush before i drop the oil and you can still see a nice amber glow to the oil. Go to their website and do some reading, you can't beat the quality and the performance. Don't waste your money on cheap paper filters and Walmart oil.:-
 
After a few miles I feel the synthetic has improved milage. The readout went to 19 mpg up from a constat 18.1 the previous months. Pretty cool.:cool:
 
Started using synthetic when we bought ours two years ago at 80k. Change it every 5k, lube (including drive shaft), and rotate tires for $45 at a local shop. Can't beat the price! Put 55k miles on it with no problems.
 
Oh jeez not another oil thread. I run Mobil 1 EP 5W-30 with a M1EP filter for 15k/1yr. Anyone who has doubts about the quality of modern lubricants go surf the BITOG forums.
 

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