Synthetic Oil Change for $17

the oil cap says "use 0w20 only". pretty disappointing that a dealership would buy 5w20 to save a few dollars without sharing that information with the customer. Many new cars use 0w20.

I'm can't imagine what that dealership would put in the transfer case. I'm betting it's not the straight 75w toyota oil. probably 5w20 huh?
 
In December I scored 7 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-20 Annual Protection for $2 a quart. Purchased a new OEM oil filter + drain plug washer for $4.



Today I changed my oil, my T4R has 28,000 miles, and the old oil had 7,500 miles. I added copper anti-seize to all the skid plate bolts and will run this oil for 7,500 miles. Not a bad final price for Mobil 1 and a little DIY. Job took 45 minutes to complete.



You used the wrong oil. Your vehicle recommends 0-20w.


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the oil cap says "use 0w20 only". pretty disappointing that a dealership would buy 5w20 to save a few dollars without sharing that information with the customer. Many new cars use 0w20.



I'm can't imagine what that dealership would put in the transfer case. I'm betting it's not the straight 75w toyota oil. probably 5w20 huh?



Exactly. Do you think Toyota would be okay with this? [emoji848]


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Meh, it’s just a discussion...on the internet. Good deal OP. Truth is we will never know what will happen because of his decision even if it blows up next week or lasts 300k miles.
All good fun right? Keep posting.
 
5w-20 and 00-20 pretty identical but Toyota will not honor the power train warranty, 3yr/36000 mile or 5yr/50,000 miles if non recommended oil is used.
 
Thanks for calling this out, you are right.

For the most part, I’d have to say I’m disappointed in our T4R community with this threads comments. I have helped many with suspension questions and seeing these had me laughing and disappointed. Thought our community of T4R owners was better than that.

A few notes...filter was $3, not $4 (text error on iPad). Total was $17. Furthermore, 5W20 is within spec, per the manual, although it does state replace at next change. It was noted earlier in this thread, the pour temp of a 5 weight vs 0 weight is a bit different however since the lowest temp in So Cal rarely dips below 40 degrees my T4R will never know the difference. My truck is now out of warranty as of January, I will be switching the truck to any 20 or 30 weight that I get on a smoking clearance deal from this point forward. Watch me get 200,000+ miles with 0 engine issues. A friend of mine works for Toyota and he has shared with me openly that his dealership uses 5W20 in all new Toyota’s when they are brought in for free Toyota Care oil changes because the operating weight is 20 and they can purchase drums of semi synthetic 5w20 less than 0W20 full synthetic. Perhaps they are all going to implode. I haven’t seen invoices personally however this is what I was told and he works there now.

The oil was purchased at AutoZone on clearance locally, they had 3 jugs and purchased all 3.

Good day, friends!

"A friend of mine works for Toyota" is always the preface for someone saying something really ****ing stupid.
 
My truck is now out of warranty as of January, I will be switching the truck to any 20 or 30 weight that I get on a smoking clearance deal from this point forward.

Well, I was trying to stick up for you but that's just plain old-fashion stupid. I've heard reasoning around using a different oil due to climate/driving factors, engine wear, etc. that make a certain amount of sense, but using the wrong oil to save 20 bucks every 5 - 10 thousand miles is just stupid. Why in the world would you slack off on maintenance after the warranty expires? That makes zero sense.

A friend of mine works for Toyota and he has shared with me openly that his dealership uses 5W20 in all new Toyota’s when they are brought in for free Toyota Care oil changes because the operating weight is 20 and they can purchase drums of semi synthetic 5w20 less than 0W20 full synthetic.

Yet another reason not to let the dealership service your vehicle.
 
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FWIW, no tribologist would blink at using a synthetic 5W20 where a 0W20 is spec'd. 5W oils contain fewer Viscosity Index Improvers than 0W oils, so they may be more shear stable than their 0W counterparts, depending on the application.

it's believed that the reasoning behind the owner's manuals recommendation that "5W20 can be used but should be replaced with 0W at next oil change" is based on Toyota's assumption that the 5W may not be a full synthetic oil, whereas 0W oils are almost certainly full synthetic.

i generally don't stray from manufacturer recommendations, but then again my 2010 maintenance guide recommends 5k mile oil changes; future editions amended this to a 10k interval... something to consider.
 
Yes I do agree with you on that. It would get expensive to do a 7 quart KY lube change on them. [emoji1787]

I was a parts manager at a large Toyota dealer for many years so I have seen some engine failures though. I can't ever recall one on a 4.0L but have seen them on the 5.7s and the 3.5s. In every case oil samples were collected and sent to Blackstone Labs for analysis. I can only remember one claim that was denied due to lack of maintenance. Looked like oil had never been changed and customer couldn't produce a single receipt or CC charge.


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So, as someone who worked on the inside, what is your thought on the "lifetime" transmission fluid? Not picking a fight, I genuinely want to know.
 
So, as someone who worked on the inside, what is your thought on the "lifetime" transmission fluid? Not picking a fight, I genuinely want to know.


I'm a maintenance nut so no way for me. My dealership aways recommended a drain and refill at 50K and that's what I'll do with mine. That really only replaces less then half of the fluid. Even Toyota recommends fluid change every 60K of you use it for heavier duty application, like towing, offroad and rooftop carriers.

My background is in the racing industry and I've done probably 40-50 oil Analysis on quite a few different oils and vehicles, and my oil of choice would be Reline by a mile. That being said I would only use the Toyota WS when doing my Trans. I will use the Toyota "Gold" in the transfer case as well since of the viscosity that it calls for and no one seems to make a replacement for it. Everything else gets Redline.


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A couple times a year Mobil offers a pretty nice rebate, like $12 off 5 quarts, and you can submit up to two of them. If you get the 5qt jugs from walmart, et al you can get a jug of mobil for anywhere from $10-$15 each.

Example:
Mobil1 Full Synthetic Oil - $10.88 After Rebate - Walmart
-
Slickdeals.net


My GX takes 8.2qts, so with a Toyota filter ($5-$8) and drain washer I'm usually looking at about a ~$30 synthetic oil change. My local Lexus dealer wanted to charge $90 + tax for regular and something like $120 or $130 for a synthetic change. If you factor my time the dealer is certainly cheaper but I enjoy the DIY. :biggrin1:

Regarding 5W-20 vs 0W-20, this is a Toyota, this doesn't matter. :p
In fact I even think my Lexus manual actually states that 5W-20 is fine if 0W is not available. I've personally run 5W-20 that I had on hand, and mixed the remainder of my 5W-20 in with 0W-20 on the next change. I'd imagine the 4.0 V6 in the runner is even less fussy than the 4.6L V8.

Honestly going with synthetic in general on these engines IMO is overkill, but I personally like mobil products and it makes me feel slightly better taking the oil to the full 10,000 mile interval.
 
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Man you guys are worse then the euro car crowds, 0w or 5w you’ll be fine. Since these number refer to extreme cold and your in California you will never see a difference.
 
It's always a pissing contest over topics like this

I used to come here for info and collegiality. It has turned into a bunch of apes thumping their chests and measuring their dicks. I keep hoping for a change in personnel but it looks like a bunch of jerks have moved into the neighborhood. Has anyone ever heard of “if you don’t have anything nice (constructive) to say, don’t say anything”? Who cares if this guy uses 0 or 5 whatever... the difference between those oils is (a) not a big deal and (b) not your problem... it’s his truck. Before you type your next response to a post, stop and think... am I really trying to help someone, or am I just trying to make myself look important/smart?
 
I know exactly what the differences are but you know better then Toyota engineers so do what you want. [emoji849]


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well using that logic make sure you keep the stock garbage shocks, tires, and don't add weight like sliders cause the engineers would've known better.....:dancin:
 
Totally different logic but whatever. [emoji849]


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Not really. Hell, they might even use 20 weight just for better gas millage. Id be curious to see what other countries recommend. My motorcycle recommends oil changes every 3k miles in the US/Canada manual but 6k miles in the European manual (no i wasn’t looking at KM).
 
I used to come here for info and collegiality. It has turned into a bunch of apes thumping their chests and measuring their dicks. I keep hoping for a change in personnel but it looks like a bunch of jerks have moved into the neighborhood. Has anyone ever heard of “if you don’t have anything nice (constructive) to say, don’t say anything”? Who cares if this guy uses 0 or 5 whatever... the difference between those oils is (a) not a big deal and (b) not your problem... it’s his truck. Before you type your next response to a post, stop and think... am I really trying to help someone, or am I just trying to make myself look important/smart?

Agreed, unfortunately lots of people are know it all tough guy on the Internet :shrug:
 

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