T4R just isn't the same

[oceanside78]

What's up guys. Was wondering if anyone might be able to point me in the right direction. I just got back from deployment and my wife has had our runner as full time baby hauler/job getter to-er. I sent her home for the deployment and she pulled a small uhaul to and from (NC to AZ) I had severely warped rotors and did the tundra brake mod right before along with a full tune up prior to deployment. She has about 165K and had regular oil/tranny fluid changed and belts done last month. Now that I'm back I can't tell if she's not doing well or just not responding well to the cold. The steering feels lose, the wheel itself has play in it. I can rapidly turn it a few degrees either way and it won't affect it's path while driving. Also, my crank time is very sporadic. Sometimes its spot on, others, my remote start will come far from starting it due to not cranking it to a full start. My power feels lack luster and my gas mileage is around 13MPG mixed driving. Also, my tranny is kinda acting funny. When coming to a stop quickly (like catching a yellow light and being just a little too far to make it) I get a clunk when I reach full rest. When I release the brake at a stop I receive another clunk and then it goes. Tranny fluid is pink and radiator fluid is hard to tell but looks green (looking for radiator cooler failure)

Any suggestions?
I know this is a lot of random stuff but my wife doesn't know the difference. Also, when are you supposed to do timing belt? I purchased it with about 135k and the guy said he didn't remember doing it, I don't know how long he owned it. Suggestions?

 

[Nelsonmd]

Welcome home. Glad you were able to come back in time for Christmas.

It sounds like you have a number of relatively common complaints, so here are some tips to get you started at least reading here. BTW, I won't post all the specific links 'cause there are alot of issues here, but you should be able to find links to a majority of these items in the reference and tutorial documentation sticky thread here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/69744-tutorial-documentation-reference.html, so definitely start there.

1. Loose Steering: This could be a number of things. I had a similar feeling, and found that it was 90% worn out suspension; it is more likely this if you have mostly a loose response when you hit bumps at high speed. Other things it could be are loose steering rack guide (link in the sticky), or worn out LBJ's or tie rod ends. Links in the sticky will tell you how to check these things. Steering wheel play alone could be a worn slip joint in the steering column. (link in sticky)

2. The long starts could be alot of different things, routine engine maintenance may take care of that. It could also be a worn out battery that isn't hold quite as high a voltage as it should be. On the other hand, it could be a worn alternator not fully charging the battery.

3. For lackluster performance, start off doing all the standard maintenance. You can try seafoaming the engine (search it, pretty easy process). Also make sure that the wife has been changing the engine oil properly. Not to accuse or anything there, but it is a very common thing. If your engine is gunked, you can add seafoam to the engine oil shortly before changing it, or running it in lower quantities full time (read the can, it tells you the directions there).

You might also check the throttle cable. These can loosen up over time and cause sluggishness.

4. For the clunk, the FIRST thing you should do is fully grease your drive shaft (this VERY commonly a full solution to clunk, so definitely try it first). I wrote a guide on greasing that is linked in the sticky, but not on the front page, it is near the end as the sticky hasn't been updated in a while. Well, here it is so you don't have to search the individual posts... http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/97006-drive-prop-shaft-greasing-guide.html

5. Tranny Fluid: Should be dark red , maybe a bit brownish. At 165k, if it hasn't been done, it would be smart to replace it. If it is translucent red, then it should be fine, but if it is brownish and smells burned, then you should replace it.

6. Stock Radiator fluid is red/pink. Green should be fine as long as it is only green, not a mix of red and green.

7. Timing Belt: Change interval is 90k, but lots of people have gone upwards of 200k with no problems. The engine is non-interference, so if the belt snaps, you are disabled, but you havn't busted your valves and ruined the engine. If you change this, then you probably want to change the water pump and thermostat too. Check the sticky for this as well.

You can search most any of these topics and find lots of info. The google search bar in the upper right seems to work better than the forum search function. So good luck, and let us know how it goes.

 

[oceanside78]

Thanks for the reply. Looks like I have quite a bit of work cut out for me

 

[T4R_Finally]

First off, thanks for your service and welcome home.

I bought mine with 125k on it with a recent, documented timing belt and water pump replacement as well as axle seals, tranny, and differentials recently serviced. But i had made up my mind that i would do the tb, wp, and fluids right away if the previous owner hadnt done them or didnt know when they were last done. My radiator hasnt been done but seems to be okay. However, i am still going to go ahead and replace it for peace of mind.

Sounds like you should start with the maint. work that should be done or you dont know if it was done. See what issues are still left and then look into fixes for those.

 

[oceanside78]

Just out of curiosity, how difficult is a timing belt for a very average mechanic?

 

[BrianSD_42]

I think the timing belt is pretty easy for any mechanic. I am not brave enough to do the timing belt myself, nor do I have a garage.

If you are in oceanside then you are pretty close. I live in Carlsbad and my roommates brother just came back from Afghanistan a few weeks ago, maybe 4.

Anyways, if you are thinking of going to a mechanic go to "The Truck Shop" in Miramar before anywhere else. Those guys are Toyota truck specialists and their rates are very good. Ask for James he's the owner and brains. If you do it yourself try to use Toyota / OEM parts including* the water pump.

Good luck.

 

[oceanside78]

I'm actually in Fayetteville, NC. I'm active Army at Ft. Bragg, but from Oceanside originally. Upon further inspection I def. need a valve cover gasket, which looks like I'd have to pull the intake mani off and then some. I don't know if I'm brave enough to pull that much stuff off my motor.

What's really hindering is we only have 1 vehicle for me, my wife and two children so it's difficult for me to work on it if it will be down for too long as its our only transportation.

 

[zcruiser]

May want to check that it's actually firing on all cylinders. You can pull the plugs fairly easily and check condition / gap. A set of spark plugs and wires is fairly easy to install w/o disrupting your DD.

The greasing of the driveshaft doesn't require any teardown, so that should eliminate the clunking.

Leaking valve covers won't create any of your symptoms. Mine are weeping a bit but still running strong.