97-4xFunner
New member
Last Saturday I finally got a chance to install my TBU. Went pretty smooth, although it took a little longer than I thought it would, automotive projects usually do for me for some reason. Braking seems to take less effort on the pedal. But I think the benefits will show in the long run(rotor warpage).
Tools and materials:
17mm socket
8mm wrench
half inch breaker bar, and reducer for 17mm socket
sheet metal cutters
threadlocker
high temp lube
brake cleaner
brake fluid
angle grinder(if you are keeping stock rims and no spacers)
dust mask and face shield(highly recomended if grinding rims)
Parts: Purchased from NAPA
SE3263 Caliper Left front with hardware
SE3264 Caliper Right front with hardwar
AD-7877 Brake Pads(Adaptive One)
4886931 Rotor Front Premium X2
My total was $438.xx for parts, but there is a $55.00 core charge for each caliper. Bring them back and get $110.00 back. So $328.00 all said and done. The Calipers are remanufactured which is nice not only because they have a nice black durable finish, but also have new orings and rubber boots. And the calipers are stamped with 13WL(231mm). The rotors don't need to be turned before installed as they come with a nondirectional finish.They do need the corrosion preventive oil cleaned from them using brake cleaner. I didn't crimp the brake line as i think this could possibly result in damage to the brake line itself. Just placed a plastic cap over the end. If you can't find something to cap it you just need to keep an eye on fluid level in the resevoir while cutting the mud gaurd. Once the gaurd is trimmed, which doesn't take much, you can put a bolt in the caliper and hook up the brake line to prevent further loss of brake fluid. Once everything was installed, I only bled the front brakes. Just bleed them well to remove all old fluid from the lines. New calipers, you may as well service them with new fluid.
So nice to come down the local grade on hwy. 101 or take an off ramp without the steering wheel shaking like crazy.
Tools and materials:
17mm socket
8mm wrench
half inch breaker bar, and reducer for 17mm socket
sheet metal cutters
threadlocker
high temp lube
brake cleaner
brake fluid
angle grinder(if you are keeping stock rims and no spacers)
dust mask and face shield(highly recomended if grinding rims)
Parts: Purchased from NAPA
SE3263 Caliper Left front with hardware
SE3264 Caliper Right front with hardwar
AD-7877 Brake Pads(Adaptive One)
4886931 Rotor Front Premium X2
My total was $438.xx for parts, but there is a $55.00 core charge for each caliper. Bring them back and get $110.00 back. So $328.00 all said and done. The Calipers are remanufactured which is nice not only because they have a nice black durable finish, but also have new orings and rubber boots. And the calipers are stamped with 13WL(231mm). The rotors don't need to be turned before installed as they come with a nondirectional finish.They do need the corrosion preventive oil cleaned from them using brake cleaner. I didn't crimp the brake line as i think this could possibly result in damage to the brake line itself. Just placed a plastic cap over the end. If you can't find something to cap it you just need to keep an eye on fluid level in the resevoir while cutting the mud gaurd. Once the gaurd is trimmed, which doesn't take much, you can put a bolt in the caliper and hook up the brake line to prevent further loss of brake fluid. Once everything was installed, I only bled the front brakes. Just bleed them well to remove all old fluid from the lines. New calipers, you may as well service them with new fluid.
So nice to come down the local grade on hwy. 101 or take an off ramp without the steering wheel shaking like crazy.
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