TC or Toytec Complete Links Question

[RunnerLimited]

Hey guys,

I really didn't want to start up a new thread about this but I searched google and this whole forum for days about these 2 kits. I found a bit but really didn't find any good reviews or detailed write-ups about the kits. I am not mechanically Inclined, I do the usual oil, differential changes and basic maintenance but when it comes to taking apart a car I have to take it to a shop. So question is which of the kits are better, maintenance wise and use wise. I would like to get the most use of it and the less I have to maintain it the better

*NEW* Complete Rear Adjustable DOM Link Kit

Im gearing towards this kit, first of because it is half the price of total chaos kit and toytec has a discount code right now. But what my question is why are they including the drop bracket as well? wouldn't the adj. pan hard bar be sufficient enough, what's the benefit of installing the pan bar and drop bracket together?

TOTAL CHAOS FABRICATION

This the total chaos, once again I don't know anything between the 2 and I do the occasional easy to medium trails on the weekends.

For the adjustable LCA and UCA wouldn't stock length be good enough, whats the benefit of extending either one of the two

 

[ARC]

EDIT: Reread and understand what you are asking now. The adjustable links are used to adjust pinion angle, probably not needed for your standard lift. Not so sure the adjustable panhard bar is going to any affect on body roll, but I could be wrong.

 

[RunnerLimited]

EDIT: Reread and understand what you are asking now. The adjustable links are used to adjust pinion angle, probably not needed for your standard lift. Not so sure the adjustable panhard bar is going to any affect on body roll, but I could be wrong.

sorry not body roll but I get a small shift to my passenger side when I press the gas, and when I let off it goes back to normal, ill edit that out

just really want to know if the toytec kit is as good as the total chaos kit,

and if I can just get away with getting the drop bracket without buying the panhard bar

 

[ARC]

sorry not body roll but I get a small shift to my passenger side when I press the gas, and when I let off it goes back to normal, ill edit that out

just really want to know if the toytec kit is as good as the total chaos kit,

and if I can just get away with getting the drop bracket without buying the panhard bar

I don't know know the answer to that. I do know mine has all stock links and I wheel it like crazy :driving:

 

[Asaspades93]

The adjustable bar will get the body centered better than stock, but it can also cause the driveshaft to contact the gas skid.
The drop bracket would help maintain a more level trac bar but could offcenter the body since it is a set length.
Running both together will get the angle of the trac bar closer to stock and you can adjust the length to get the body centered and avoid contacting the skids when flexed.
I only have an adjustable bar but I plan on adding a drop bracket at some point
[MENTION=89400]MrHentoni[/MENTION] just did the drop and has an adjustable bar so you'll get better feedback from him

 

[MrHentoni]

The adjustable bar will get the body centered better than stock, but it can also cause the driveshaft to contact the gas skid.
The drop bracket would help maintain a more level trac bar but could offcenter the body since it is a set length.
Running both together will get the angle of the trac bar closer to stock and you can adjust the length to get the body centered and avoid contacting the skids when flexed.
I only have an adjustable bar but I plan on adding a drop bracket at some point
[MENTION=89400]MrHentoni[/MENTION] just did the drop and has an adjustable bar so you'll get better feedback from him

[MENTION=91423]Asaspades93[/MENTION] is completely correct. I'm currently running 9 wraps and quite a bit of weight. With just the bar, even on moderate trails, I would annihilate the gas skid with the rear u-joint/pinion. Now that i have the drop and the adjustable bar installed (and centered), I have very minimal contact under full stuff to the driver side (keep in mind I'm about 4" lifted in the rear and still have some angle to my panhard).

All this being said, my panhard did actually cause me to have a slight passenger side lean with just the bar. Now, with the drop and the bar i'm back to a very slight, but normal, drivers side lean! Which I am completely OK with.

 

[absalom]

You can make either of those kits for like 1/4 of the cost. For example, I made an equivalent panhard bar for $90.

 

[ARC]

[MENTION=91423]Asaspades93[/MENTION] is completely correct. I'm currently running 9 wraps and quite a bit of weight. With just the bar, even on moderate trails, I would annihilate the gas skid with the rear u-joint/pinion. Now that i have the drop and the adjustable bar installed (and centered), I have very minimal contact under full stuff to the driver side (keep in mind I'm about 4" lifted in the rear and still have some angle to my panhard).

All this being said, my panhard did actually cause me to have a slight passenger side lean with just the bar. Now, with the drop and the bar i'm back to a very slight, but normal, drivers side lean! Which I am completely OK with.

The adjustable bar will get the body centered better than stock, but it can also cause the driveshaft to contact the gas skid.
The drop bracket would help maintain a more level trac bar but could offcenter the body since it is a set length.
Running both together will get the angle of the trac bar closer to stock and you can adjust the length to get the body centered and avoid contacting the skids when flexed.
I only have an adjustable bar but I plan on adding a drop bracket at some point
[MENTION=89400]MrHentoni[/MENTION] just did the drop and has an adjustable bar so you'll get better feedback from him

Mine with stock links made hit my skid all the time. My solution was trim the skid. No problems since, was free, and only took a few minutes.

You can make either of those kits for like 1/4 of the cost. For example, I made an equivalent panhard bar for $90.

This is true, BUT labor is costs money and I doubt this gentleman has the ability to fabricate them on his own or he wouldn't asking about pre-made kits.

 

[RunnerLimited]

[MENTION=91423]Asaspades93[/MENTION] is completely correct. I'm currently running 9 wraps and quite a bit of weight. With just the bar, even on moderate trails, I would annihilate the gas skid with the rear u-joint/pinion. Now that i have the drop and the adjustable bar installed (and centered), I have very minimal contact under full stuff to the driver side (keep in mind I'm about 4" lifted in the rear and still have some angle to my panhard).

All this being said, my panhard did actually cause me to have a slight passenger side lean with just the bar. Now, with the drop and the bar i'm back to a very slight, but normal, drivers side lean! Which I am completely OK with.

That's great! finally some feedback LOL! yeah ill probably end up getting the whole kit I just don't know how appropriate the adjustable UCA are, I know I have to replace my stock LCAs cause of the bushings. btw do you remember what the exact length of your bar was after it was centred :music:

 

[tacojeff]

I have the upper and lower rear links. They are obviously much stronger than stock. No complaints but get ready for some suspension noise from the rear, heims are inherently creaky.

If you are in an area with road salt antiseze them and paint them with some decent paint. The pain that came on them completely rusted up in one winter.

 

[RunnerLimited]

I have the upper and lower rear links. They are obviously much stronger than stock. No complaints but get ready for some suspension noise from the rear, heims are inherently creaky.

If you are in an area with road salt antiseze them and paint them with some decent paint. The pain that came on them completely rusted up in one winter.

Oh nice! yeah ill probably overdue it with the anti seize we use salt here, just wondering did you use the stock length for both the UCA and LCA? and any way I can either lube or oil the heims to reduce the noise?

 

[RunnerLimited]

Actually I think both kits use heim joints, doing more research about it and videos they tend to get really loud. anyone know a poly replacement for the LCA and UCA that aren't heim?

 

[So Many Roads]

I get a small shift to my passenger side when I press the gas, and when I let off it goes back to normal

I had this same issue so I'll chime in. Visually check the bushings on your rear LCA's and UCA's, and the torque on the bolts that attach them to the frame. If the bushings are in bad shape, or the bolts are loose, the result is the torque steer you've described.

The LCA bushings are replaceable, OEM are $30 each or so. You'll need a press to replace. The UCA bushings are not replaceable. Buy new OEM UCA's, or, buy aftermarket.

Febfest sells aftermarket UCA/LCA's. Like anything, you get what you pay for and generally aftermarket parts don't hold up like OEM. Much cheaper though. See the link below.

http://www.amazon.com/Febest-Toyota...eywords=toyota+4runner+rear+upper+control+arm

 

[RunnerLimited]

I had this same issue so I'll chime in. Visually check the bushings on your rear LCA's and UCA's, and the torque on the bolts that attach them to the frame. If the bushings are in bad shape, or the bolts are loose, the result is the torque steer you've described.

The LCA bushings are replaceable, OEM are $30 each or so. You'll need a press to replace. The UCA bushings are not replaceable. Buy new OEM UCA's, or, buy aftermarket.

Febfest sells aftermarket UCA/LCA's. Like anything, you get what you pay for and generally aftermarket parts don't hold up like OEM. Much cheaper though. See the link below.

http://www.amazon.com/Febest-Toyota...eywords=toyota+4runner+rear+upper+control+arm

.

Yeah I was just actually just looking at Febest wonder how they will hold up, ill order me some cant go wrong with 30$ for a complete assembly

 

[macshemi57]

Not trting to thread Jack, but this is good info.
with that being, are adjustable uca and lca even nessasary? I have super flex coils sitting in the garage now and I know I will need a drop bracket and even considered making my own adjustable panhard since I have the tools to do that. I've been back and forth on weather just leaving my arms stock. Replacing the bushings. Or trying to fab 4 new arms.
Do a lot of guys just run stock arms In the rear?

 

[kolelt]

Not trting to thread Jack, but this is good info.
with that being, are adjustable uca and lca even nessasary? I have super flex coils sitting in the garage now and I know I will need a drop bracket and even considered making my own adjustable panhard since I have the tools to do that. I've been back and forth on weather just leaving my arms stock. Replacing the bushings. Or trying to fab 4 new arms.
Do a lot of guys just run stock arms In the rear?

I got superflex installed, only panhard drop bracket. And its all good.

 

[Do-boy]

I don't see a single reason why you should pay $500 more for the TC rear links. They are way overpriced. On my race cars, i would get custom arms made. With some bro price factored in, $90 is totally reasonable WITH labour for a pan hard bar.

Both kits have urethane on the body side so i personally wouldn't worry too much about noise. If you're still worried, i would just leave your arms stock.

 

[RunnerLimited]

I don't see a single reason why you should pay $500 more for the TC rear links. They are way overpriced. On my race cars, i would get custom arms made. With some bro price factored in, $90 is totally reasonable WITH labour for a pan hard bar.

Both kits have urethane on the body side so i personally wouldn't worry too much about noise. If you're still worried, i would just leave your arms stock.

well I need to replace my LCA's cause they have a lot of play on them, really not worried about the noise but if it sounds like my car is about to fall apart in every bump it would be nice if there was another option, I mean 800$ isn't too much considering I was going to go with the Total chaos kit, ill have my mechanic check my UCA's see if its needed, if not then ill get LCA and drop bracket toytec and then SS for the pan hard bar

 

[snivilous]

Not trting to thread Jack, but this is good info.
with that being, are adjustable uca and lca even nessasary? I have super flex coils sitting in the garage now and I know I will need a drop bracket and even considered making my own adjustable panhard since I have the tools to do that. I've been back and forth on weather just leaving my arms stock. Replacing the bushings. Or trying to fab 4 new arms.
Do a lot of guys just run stock arms In the rear?

Not really. I've never heard of having a pinion angle issue on a normal size lift (<6"). The main reason they get replaced is the stock ones are weak, specifically the upper links. I, as long as other members, have broken the upper links because of over flexing the rear. The stock bushings can only rotate so far, and when you flex everything is trying to twist and eventually something breaks which is the uppers. Likewise I have bent my lower links so stronger lowers would be nice. Obviously it's up to the user, personally adjustable rear links (excluding panhard) is a waste of extra money vs fixed length for the stock geometry.

 

[Chill will]

Actually I think both kits use heim joints, doing more research about it and videos they tend to get really loud. anyone know a poly replacement for the LCA and UCA that aren't heim?

I have a set of adjustable upper and lower links from a company that used to be called the Toy outfitters. They are now Hardline Fabrication Services. The use Currie Johnny Joints instead of heims. Same amount of flex way less noise. Had them for about 4years now and have no complaints http://hfs4x4.com/4x4-products/hfs-suspension-links