Tell me how your clutch feels

[Mateo8]

The other day my '97 v6 5-speed failed inspection for a blown steering rack. When my dad drove it home from the shop he mentioned, "your clutch feels like its off a big block. Its like a 1960's big block car, if you try and hold the clutch at the light it'll make your leg quiver".

He's in his 50s and runs 10 miles no problem, anyone else have a clutch like this? From my memory it has always felt like this (other than the time when the clutch return spring snapped and I drove down and back from Key West with a bungee cord in its place) And if not, what does your clutch feel like?

 

[texadelphia]

I've never driven a big block but my clutch feels similar to my old Jeeps. It's definitely heavier than my Golf and '91 Corolla were, but not to the point it makes my leg quiver. Maybe someone put a heavier clutch in it before you bought it? Did you put a Toyota return spring in it when you fixed it after the bungee cord incident?

 

[Sparky 97Runner]

I have a 97 5-speed and it doesn't even come close to making my leg quiver. Did your clutch get heavier or lighter when your clutch return spring broke? I don't think that should have made much of a difference either way but it's a starting point. The factory spring should have made it slightly easier to hold the clutch in but adding the bungee cord should have made it feel heavier.

 

[JohnMc]

We've got a bunch of manual cars hanging around the place, so I'd characterize the 4Runner's clutch as 'mid pack' in terms of pedal effort.

In order of pedal effort:
Soft:
- Mk4 Jetta TDi - easy peasy, great car to teach someone how to drive a manual because of the torque at idle
- NB Miata - light pedal feel, but very light flywheel so don't stall it!
Medium:
- Volvo PV544 - mechanical linkage with levers and pivots.
- '99 4Runner V6 - mildly firm feel at top, but a noticeable breakover and reduction of effort half way down (that return spring?)
Hard:
- Turbo LS swapped Volvo wagon with Nissan CD009 - FIRM pressure needed, and for fun, the clutch is very bitey, engagement zone is very narrow

 

[Mateo8]

We've got a bunch of manual cars hanging around the place, so I'd characterize the 4Runner's clutch as 'mid pack' in terms of pedal effort.

In order of pedal effort:
Soft:
- Mk4 Jetta TDi - easy peasy, great car to teach someone how to drive a manual because of the torque at idle
- NB Miata - light pedal feel, but very light flywheel so don't stall it!
Medium:
- Volvo PV544 - mechanical linkage with levers and pivots.
- '99 4Runner V6 - mildly firm feel at top, but a noticeable breakover and reduction of effort half way down (that return spring?)
Hard:
- Turbo LS swapped Volvo wagon with Nissan CD009 - FIRM pressure needed, and for fun, the clutch is very bitey, engagement zone is very narrow

There is a slight breakover, but not as noticeable as some of our other cars. I do not remember the brand of spring I put in, but knowing me it was OEM, and if that is that is the case its just due to the new spring. The car has 280k on it and I have owned it for the last 90k, the clutch feels great and I have no other issues with the drivetrain. Since I have not driven another manual Toyota from the era, I did not know if this firmness is normal or not

 

[pluton]

Mine is totally smooth and vibration free when fully disengaged and when feathering, except during certain rare occasions whilst 'power feathering' it is starting to chatter momentarily.
Is your dad talking about vibration while the clutch is fully disengaged or vibration while feathering during engagement/disengagement?

 

[[email protected]]

I have never had a problem with my clutch on my '97 SR5. But then again, I have also had it since 1996 and know all of the idiosyncrasies associated with it. I just had some work completed on it since I needed to replace the spring, but the only qualm that I may have with it is that I need to sometimes bury the clutch into the firewall to get it to start. But over the years, I have not had any problems with it stiffening up.

I am a woman who is 5'5" and weighs about 130 if you want to have a reference point.

 

[Mateo8]

Mine is totally smooth and vibration free when fully disengaged and when feathering, except during certain rare occasions whilst 'power feathering' it is starting to chatter momentarily.
Is your dad talking about vibration while the clutch is fully disengaged or vibration while feathering during engagement/disengagement?

I do get the occasional chattering, mainly when cold, nothing I am worried about at the moment. My dad didn't feel any chattering, just thought the clutch was heavy.

I have never had a problem with my clutch on my '97 SR5. But then again, I have also had it since 1996 and know all of the idiosyncrasies associated with it. I just had some work completed on it since I needed to replace the spring, but the only qualm that I may have with it is that I need to sometimes bury the clutch into the firewall to get it to start. But over the years, I have not had any problems with it stiffening up.

I am a woman who is 5'5" and weighs about 130 if you want to have a reference point.

I also sometimes have to bury the clutch into the firewall to start it, but that is when the floor mat slides up underneath the pedal. I don't think its heavy, just stiffer than my dad's '06 wrangler, I think he was just used to how light the clutch is in his Jeep

 

[Bad Luck]

I also sometimes have to bury the clutch into the firewall to start it, but that is when the floor mat slides up underneath the pedal. I don't think its heavy, just stiffer than my dad's '06 wrangler, I think he was just used to how light the clutch is in his Jeep

I too have to push the clutch pedal almost all the way down to start the engine.

 

[JohnMc]

There's a switch that engages with the pedal all the way down to allow the starter to engage (unless you press that dash switch). Over time it wears a little where it rubs against the clutch pedal. You can adjust it out a little if you're having to mash the pedal down to crank.

 

[Riceye]

I just had some work completed on it since I needed to replace the spring, but the only qualm that I may have with it is that I need to sometimes bury the clutch into the firewall to get it to start.

There is a two wire plug for the switch at the pedal arm that can easily be bypassed with a 3" piece of wire and two uninsulated male spade connectors installed. All three of our manual transmission vehicles get parked in neutral with the parking brake engaged. We never depress the clutch to start, unless the temp is below 0ºF. Twas ever thus.

The clutch in my 2000 is stiffer than what was in my totaled '96. That clutch was as easy to depress as my wife's Subaru. The clutch in my 2000 feels more like a '70's GMC pickup clutch. I mentioned this to the seller when I test drove. He said that it had never given him a problem during his ownership. I found him to be a straight-up guy, and he was right. I purchased at 185,000 miles, and it now has 245,000. I suspect it has an aftermarket (Marlin?) pressure plate, but cannot confirm. Compared to our 2016 Crosstrek and our 1987 VW Westfalia, it is definitely harder to depress.

 

[Pyral]

I got to experience the original clutch spring, a new OEM clutch spring, and then a new linear spring from Toyota to stop the squeaking (used in pre-96 4runners).

The old spring was so weak it didn't return the pedal. Both the replacement springs were firm at first, to the point it was a little difficult unless you had your leg completely straight. But after a week or so it was normal difficulty. I was able to manage it two days after I dislocated my knee. Mine is a W59 transmission used in the 4 cyl, but it doesn't feel much different from the R150 imo.


For a clutch I think it's good, a Jeep JK has double the clutch travel and its spongy and vague every inch. Other older Toyota vehicles from the 80's and 90's felt about the same.

Something I have noticed is that my transmission hates it when I try to downshift into 2nd going 20 mph (not even money shift speeds). It will whine and require great force if I down shift into 2nd above 10 mph. Yet at very low speeds or an up shift, I can get into that gear perfectly fine. It sucks because it limits my ability to come to a stop using engine braking, but at least I cant money shift.

 

[JamesDZ]

I just changed my clutch bearing, but even tuned up mine (1998 SR5) feels smooth and a little more shallow than other trucks I've driven.