I hope this isn't another
"Help I'm getting 15 MPG in my vehicle that is rated 15-17 MPG, I think its broken and I need a new engine"
thread.
yes…I know that these trucks get poor mileage…i don't think that you understand actually how cold its been here. And..I do know how to drive..thanks. The situation is…the fuel indicator dropped by more than a quarter of a tank after only a few miles…seems like gas is just pouring out. Maybe the cold messes with the gauge..i don't know….but I do know that it seems like i am getting half the mpg's that i was when warmer...
yes…I know that these trucks get poor mileage…i don't think that you understand actually how cold its been here. And..I do know how to drive..thanks. The situation is…the fuel indicator dropped by more than a quarter of a tank after only a few miles…seems like gas is just pouring out. Maybe the cold messes with the gauge..i don't know….but I do know that it seems like i am getting half the mpg's that i was when warmer...
Ok that doesn't mean your actual gas mileage is going down unless you calculate how many gallons you are putting in until it clicks off vs how many miles you drove since last time you put gas in. These trucks have a very common problem if having funky gas gauges that fluctuate randomly and just drop to empty, that is sounding more like your problem than actual bad mpg.
I tried to make that argument to the guy behind the till at the gas pump but he wouldn't budge his price one thin dime !
The truck stays in choke too long. Cover half the radiator when its below 32*. I simply use cardboard and slide it between the rad and ac condensor. The engine will run better. Avoid ethanol gas if you can help it. The fuel is less potent than the summer blend.
I believe you are correct regarding the "choke". Question is, on these fuel injected engines, there is no actual choke butterfly. The extra fuel needed for cold stating/warm-up must come via command from the ECU.
Anyhow, if I find where this temp sensor is located, perhaps
I can do something to help the sensor keep warm when we get down to single digit temps outside.
I use the term "choke" loosely. The ECU will richen the fuel mixture as long as the coolant is cold. Why do you want to manipulate the sensor? The only thing you will do is screw up the fuel to air ratio. By blocking the radiator, you are helping the engine get up to temp and keep it there. tricking the sensor will make the ECU think the the engine is warm when its not. Only bad things can come from that.
The radiator on these trucks is oversized for the 6 cyl engine. Even worse in the dead of winter. slide a sheet of cardboard infront of the radiator and cover 3/4 of the radiator. Its easy enough to do. Once you cut it to the right size, tie it with zip ties to the top orf the rad or support. No zip ties, push a couple of pencils thru the cardboard and let it hang from the top. leave the bottom uncovered. This will let the cold air cool the fluid before it exits the radiator. Keep an eye on your coolant temps and adjust accordingly. If you drive long distances, only cover half. unlike modern vehicles with an electric fan that stays off when cold, the truck has a driven fan constantly cooling the radiator whether it needs it or not. It won't run hot up there in the Great White North.
If you have an extra tranny cooler, cover that as well. You want that fluid to warm up as well.
If popping a styrofoam cup over the sensor can help, I'm willing to try it to see if any change is noted.
If it's positive, or at least looks promising, others may or may not follow suit at their own peril.
Wish me luck !
I believe you are correct regarding the "choke". Question is, on these fuel injected engines, there is no actual choke butterfly. The extra fuel needed for cold stating/warm-up must come via command from the ECU.
The ECU must get it's reading from the temp sensor? Where is that located ?
I'm musing about trying some experiments to help this sensor warm up faster and stay warm when driving down the road with very cold air blowing around it. My engine comes up to the same temp that the thermostat allows in winter/summer independent of outside air temp
I also know cold affects viscosity of all my drive line fluid components and I can't do anything about that.
Where I live in Ontario, all regular octane gas contains up to 10% ethanol but fortunately, high octane or "premium" gas does not. Switching to high octane will not make up the drop difference in mileage I'm currently experiencing although it would help I'm sure.
Anyhow, if I find where this temp sensor is located, perhaps
I can do something to help the sensor keep warm when we get down to single digit temps outside.
Right now, getting less than 200 kms/tankfull of gas is not acceptable when in the summer I get over 400 kms/tankful.