terrible mileage...

Dondell

New member
its been very cold near chicago lately…my mileage seems to be awful…what gives?…I have done tune up, fuel filter, cleaned maf ….
 
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I hope this isn't another

"Help I'm getting 15 MPG in my vehicle that is rated 15-17 MPG, I think its broken and I need a new engine"

thread.
 
My 3.4 is really bad in the cold weather as well. I have not run any number over extended time but I'm about 1/2 the kms I normally go and need to fill up.



Hmmm...just remembered a tip a dealership mechanic told me about my old '96 F150 4x4.

" you want better mileage in the winter, put a rad /grill blanket on it. Helps the engine lean out when it gets to temp".

Of course I'm paraphrasing but I got a snap on grill cover and put it on. I can't honestly say if it helped my mileage in the winter or not but... I raises the possibility of an experiment.
 
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have you looked up "winter gas" ?

I don't know much about it but many seem to believe their mileage goes down in the winter.
 
Reduce your speed. I frequently drive between Vancouver and kamloops, bc (over 200 miles of hilly highway). When I keep a constant 120 km/h, I get 15 mpg. If I stay below 110, I get 18+ mpg. I am lifted on 32" MT's with an ARB bumper. Aerodynamics is the enemy
 
I hope this isn't another

"Help I'm getting 15 MPG in my vehicle that is rated 15-17 MPG, I think its broken and I need a new engine"

thread.

yes…I know that these trucks get poor mileage…i don't think that you understand actually how cold its been here. And..I do know how to drive..thanks. The situation is…the fuel indicator dropped by more than a quarter of a tank after only a few miles…seems like gas is just pouring out. Maybe the cold messes with the gauge..i don't know….but I do know that it seems like i am getting half the mpg's that i was when warmer...
 
I'm having the same problem. For the past year and a half that I've owned the truck I've gotten a consistent 13-14L/100kms (18 MPG). I just filled up today to the tune of 19.3 L/100kms (12.2MPG)! That's a pretty significant drop.

I've got a new air filter
new plugs
new O2 sensors and exhaust.
TB is clean
Tires are correctly inflated (and are the same tires I was getting 18MPG on)

My driving hasn't changed, although it has been snowy this year. Not a 35% drop in mileage snowy mind you. I pretty much only put it in 4WD on the road when I get stuck in a driveway or something, otherwise it's 2WD on the road. The truck doesn't get anywhere near 120kms hour! 90 at the top end maybe...

I swapped out the PCV valve today and the old one appeared fine but I'm grasping at straws here. I'm not even sure how the PCV valve will affect the mileage but I've heard it can.
 
yes…I know that these trucks get poor mileage…i don't think that you understand actually how cold its been here. And..I do know how to drive..thanks. The situation is…the fuel indicator dropped by more than a quarter of a tank after only a few miles…seems like gas is just pouring out. Maybe the cold messes with the gauge..i don't know….but I do know that it seems like i am getting half the mpg's that i was when warmer...

Ditto...same here. Freaked me out first time it happened during a cold snap we had in Dec. When the weather warmed up a little (relative term), the mileage come up as well. Now it's cold again and my runner is drinking at "double" the normal rate.

Would not take long to recover the cost of a grill blanket if it would help.
 
yes…I know that these trucks get poor mileage…i don't think that you understand actually how cold its been here. And..I do know how to drive..thanks. The situation is…the fuel indicator dropped by more than a quarter of a tank after only a few miles…seems like gas is just pouring out. Maybe the cold messes with the gauge..i don't know….but I do know that it seems like i am getting half the mpg's that i was when warmer...

Ok that doesn't mean your actual gas mileage is going down unless you calculate how many gallons you are putting in until it clicks off vs how many miles you drove since last time you put gas in. These trucks have a very common problem if having funky gas gauges that fluctuate randomly and just drop to empty, that is sounding more like your problem than actual bad mpg.
 
Ok that doesn't mean your actual gas mileage is going down unless you calculate how many gallons you are putting in until it clicks off vs how many miles you drove since last time you put gas in. These trucks have a very common problem if having funky gas gauges that fluctuate randomly and just drop to empty, that is sounding more like your problem than actual bad mpg.

I tried to make that argument to the guy behind the till at the gas pump but he wouldn't budge his price one thin dime !
 
The truck stays in choke too long. Cover half the radiator when its below 32*. I simply use cardboard and slide it between the rad and ac condensor. The engine will run better. Avoid ethanol gas if you can help it. The fuel is less potent than the summer blend.
 
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I tried to make that argument to the guy behind the till at the gas pump but he wouldn't budge his price one thin dime !

The OP seemed to be referencing more of an issue with the gauge just dropping over actual calculated mileage. He, as well as you, could be getting the same amount of mileage but he sees the needle drop quicker and thinks his mpg going down. Are you calculating your actual mpg?
 
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The truck stays in choke too long. Cover half the radiator when its below 32*. I simply use cardboard and slide it between the rad and ac condensor. The engine will run better. Avoid ethanol gas if you can help it. The fuel is less potent than the summer blend.

I believe you are correct regarding the "choke". Question is, on these fuel injected engines, there is no actual choke butterfly. The extra fuel needed for cold stating/warm-up must come via command from the ECU.

The ECU must get it's reading from the temp sensor? Where is that located ?

I'm musing about trying some experiments to help this sensor warm up faster and stay warm when driving down the road with very cold air blowing around it. My engine comes up to the same temp that the thermostat allows in winter/summer independent of outside air temp

I also know cold affects viscosity of all my drive line fluid components and I can't do anything about that.
Where I live in Ontario, all regular octane gas contains up to 10% ethanol but fortunately, high octane or "premium" gas does not. Switching to high octane will not make up the drop difference in mileage I'm currently experiencing although it would help I'm sure.

Anyhow, if I find where this temp sensor is located, perhaps
I can do something to help the sensor keep warm when we get down to single digit temps outside.
Right now, getting less than 200 kms/tankfull of gas is not acceptable when in the summer I get over 400 kms/tankful.
 
I believe you are correct regarding the "choke". Question is, on these fuel injected engines, there is no actual choke butterfly. The extra fuel needed for cold stating/warm-up must come via command from the ECU.

Anyhow, if I find where this temp sensor is located, perhaps
I can do something to help the sensor keep warm when we get down to single digit temps outside.

I use the term "choke" loosely. The ECU will richen the fuel mixture as long as the coolant is cold. Why do you want to manipulate the sensor? The only thing you will do is screw up the fuel to air ratio. By blocking the radiator, you are helping the engine get up to temp and keep it there. tricking the sensor will make the ECU think the the engine is warm when its not. Only bad things can come from that.

The radiator on these trucks is oversized for the 6 cyl engine. Even worse in the dead of winter. slide a sheet of cardboard infront of the radiator and cover 3/4 of the radiator. Its easy enough to do. Once you cut it to the right size, tie it with zip ties to the top orf the rad or support. No zip ties, push a couple of pencils thru the cardboard and let it hang from the top. leave the bottom uncovered. This will let the cold air cool the fluid before it exits the radiator. Keep an eye on your coolant temps and adjust accordingly. If you drive long distances, only cover half. unlike modern vehicles with an electric fan that stays off when cold, the truck has a driven fan constantly cooling the radiator whether it needs it or not. It won't run hot up there in the Great White North.

If you have an extra tranny cooler, cover that as well. You want that fluid to warm up as well.
 
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I know myself that when it's cold here I'll let the truck run for about 10 minutes to warm up in the morning, which returns 0 MPG. Just sayin'.
 
I use the term "choke" loosely. The ECU will richen the fuel mixture as long as the coolant is cold. Why do you want to manipulate the sensor? The only thing you will do is screw up the fuel to air ratio. By blocking the radiator, you are helping the engine get up to temp and keep it there. tricking the sensor will make the ECU think the the engine is warm when its not. Only bad things can come from that.

The radiator on these trucks is oversized for the 6 cyl engine. Even worse in the dead of winter. slide a sheet of cardboard infront of the radiator and cover 3/4 of the radiator. Its easy enough to do. Once you cut it to the right size, tie it with zip ties to the top orf the rad or support. No zip ties, push a couple of pencils thru the cardboard and let it hang from the top. leave the bottom uncovered. This will let the cold air cool the fluid before it exits the radiator. Keep an eye on your coolant temps and adjust accordingly. If you drive long distances, only cover half. unlike modern vehicles with an electric fan that stays off when cold, the truck has a driven fan constantly cooling the radiator whether it needs it or not. It won't run hot up there in the Great White North.

If you have an extra tranny cooler, cover that as well. You want that fluid to warm up as well.


Yes Sir...I hear you loud and clear regarding the cardboard. I've done that before although not on my runner. It can't hurt as long as an eye is kept on the temp gauge however, past experience's with cardboard was primarily to try to increase the coolant temperature.

My coolant gauge seems to run normal once it comes to temp. Now I know not to trust the gauge when it comes to precise measurements however it is an indicator of change regardless.

I was not thinking anything drastic regarding the temp sensor other than wrapping it with perhaps a bit of styrofoam or fiberglass insulation. Something to lessen the effect of outside temperature and stop cold wind from blowing on the outside of it to see if it helps.

In over 40 yrs of driving all types of vehicles-short and long haul, I have never seen such a drastic change in consumption of fuel as my 4runner experiences with differences in air temperature. Especially when it gets to single digits and below.

Really...it's not my imagination as during these extreme cycles of temperature we have experienced this year, I get a chance to compare the differences on a daily basis.

Sounds like others are experiencing this as well. If popping a styrofoam cup over the sensor can help, I'm willing to try it to see if any change is noted.
If it's positive, or at least looks promising, others may or may not follow suit at their own peril.
Wish me luck !
 
If popping a styrofoam cup over the sensor can help, I'm willing to try it to see if any change is noted.
If it's positive, or at least looks promising, others may or may not follow suit at their own peril.
Wish me luck !

Good luck of course. But the sensor isnt exposed to the cold air. The sensor is immersed in the coolant stream and insulated from the brass housing its held in. You will only be covering the wires with the foam cup. The best course would be to help the coolant get up to temp quicker and stop over-cooling the radiator.

Cheers

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I believe you are correct regarding the "choke". Question is, on these fuel injected engines, there is no actual choke butterfly. The extra fuel needed for cold stating/warm-up must come via command from the ECU.

The ECU must get it's reading from the temp sensor? Where is that located ?

I'm musing about trying some experiments to help this sensor warm up faster and stay warm when driving down the road with very cold air blowing around it. My engine comes up to the same temp that the thermostat allows in winter/summer independent of outside air temp

I also know cold affects viscosity of all my drive line fluid components and I can't do anything about that.
Where I live in Ontario, all regular octane gas contains up to 10% ethanol but fortunately, high octane or "premium" gas does not. Switching to high octane will not make up the drop difference in mileage I'm currently experiencing although it would help I'm sure.

Anyhow, if I find where this temp sensor is located, perhaps
I can do something to help the sensor keep warm when we get down to single digit temps outside.
Right now, getting less than 200 kms/tankfull of gas is not acceptable when in the summer I get over 400 kms/tankful.

5VZFE uses an electronic IACV or Idle Air Control Valve to regulate the idle on cold start ups. The temp of the coolant will determine how long the high idle will run.
 

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