The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

Actually the Magnuson kits come with their own o-shaped gaskets included! Saved me a trip to the dealership.

Ended up getting it all figured out - thanks for the quick responses! A couple issues that I'm looking to sort out. First, the hose going from evap to supercharger...the inlet is slightly larger than the hose so the hose ripped trying to get it on. Have it taped up but need to find a hose that has a slightly larger opening on the other end or just stretch it. Anyone else run into this?

Also, some slight hesitation at times when pressing hard on the gas, and it has thrown a cel a couple times. I think the inline air filter I have with the snorkel may be feeding too much air into the system causing is to be even leaner. I think clamping the vacuum hoses and installing the stock air box should help a bit.
 
Also, some slight hesitation at times when pressing hard on the gas, and it has thrown a cel a couple times. I think the inline air filter I have with the snorkel may be feeding too much air into the system causing is to be even leaner. I think clamping the vacuum hoses and installing the stock air box should help a bit.

I doubt its because it's getting too much air, did you drive it easy for a while after resetting the ecu so it can re learn
 
As far as I know pulling the negative terminal for 10 minutes or more resets it. The cable was unplugged all day for the install so I am assuming it is reset.

I think it may be the vacuum hoses then. Not trusting the patch jobs I did. Air pressure at higher boost may be causing it to leak because it runs great other than fully getting after it.
 
Yeah Millerpka I have that same thing. I should look at mine. I think I just warmed the rubber up and stuck in on.


^ am I right @MTD
 
Yeah Millerpka I have that same thing. I should look at mine. I think I just warmed the rubber up and stuck in on.


^ am I right @MTD
Maybe lol all I know is mine is fine and I swapped all my cracked and dried out houses with minty new silicone stuff
 
Still chasing it. Replaced the manifold to 3-way tee and cel came back after a few miles. Still some hiccups when I'm really getting on the pedal.

I'm thinking it's this intake I put together. The connection from intake to throttle body is not solid. Going to buy a 45° silicon elbow and see if that remedies it, otherwise will swap a stock airbox in.

Edit: Also haven't changed spark plugs yet. Are those necessary without fuel mods? Need to find which ones were recommended I think it was the IK11?
 
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Still chasing it. Replaced the manifold to 3-way tee and cel came back after a few miles. Still some hiccups when I'm really getting on the pedal.

I'm thinking it's this intake I put together. The connection from intake to throttle body is not solid. Going to buy a 45° silicon elbow and see if that remedies it, otherwise will swap a stock airbox in.

Edit: Also haven't changed spark plugs yet. Are those necessary without fuel mods? Need to find which ones were recommended I think it was the IK11?

My Runner had a very bad hesitation to it, checked the spark plugs and they were the cheap AcDelco ones. Replaced them with the Denso Iridum IK-22's and a pair of NGK Wire plugs. Rides so much smoother. I believe I read that the S/C should be ran on IK-20s or IK-22s not 100% though.
 
Fuel trim

I know a lot of people swear by being able to clean it and get away with it. But I've seen too many that just aren't the same after cleaning. Working for Toyota I've seen plenty of fuel trim too lean codes not fixed by "reman'd" or cleaned sensors. I can't explain why that is, but new just works. Helps if you have a scanner that can tell you the fuel trim numbers, to see where they are at idle. Off idle and under load, it's impossible to accurately gauge what it "should be" reading.

What are typical values for idle and under load?
 
Yes the fuel trims I find to be more helpful than just a number from the maf. The short term fuel trims are more "real time" with the long term being exactly what it looks like. Positive numbers means the computer is having to add fuel and negative means it's removing. And by adding or removing, it's changing the fuel injector duty cycle. When you would typically see a check engine light, there is a 40% or greater gap in trim numbers.
 
Sorry guys I thought we were talking fuel trims here. Numbers from the maf are really no good for anything unless they are like 0v and then you know you have an issue lol
 
I joined this forum because i was having issues with the SC on my 3rdgen; which led me to the check valve between the TB and SC. Honestly, I could hardly believe that this would fix anything, but thought i would just rule it out before I spent money. I wasn't that easy finding out exactly where the check valve went, so i thought i would just drop in the pic to more clearly document where it goes.

after you lay over the TB, you can see the hose that is removed from the TB. I just cut that hose back about 3 inches and put the check valve in.

I can't exaggerate how many issues this stupid valve fixed for me, my truck backfired through the TB, ran like it was running out of gas and would hardly do the speedlimit on the interstate. my truck runs awesome now (for having only 6 injectors) and saved me a ton of time and money.

4bangr-albums-my_3rdgen-picture37405-3-4-tb.jpeg
 

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