The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread

[Killer Squirrel]

If u look in post 6 here u will see a typical example of a superchargers silencer holes on each side of the compressor outlet. https://z22se.co.uk/threads/supercharger-silencer-holes.15909/

If these silencer ports are plugged, the supercharger acoustics are no longer baffled. Basically the silencer holes allow some air to bounce back into the compressor and muffle the whine. If these ports are plugged, the supercharger whine becomes louder. If u use the stock air box and intake tube, they also muffle the supercharger whine quite a bit. But if u take a TRD supercharger (u can only do it with a older Grey supercharger because u can take the compressor apart separately on the Grey ones)plug the silencer ports, and run a typical cold air intake, the supercharger whine is crazy loud. With the hood open its ear piercing. With the hood closed it sounds like demons are being murdered in the engine compartment under heavy acceleration. People on the side of the street all turn their head and wonder what the heck just drove by. I highly recommend it if u like having fun. The nice thing is that cruising down the highway it's not really loud unless your climbing Hills or accelerating hard.

Sounds like it could be interesting as I personally like the sound of the s/c. It sounds like you did this to yours, would you mind sharing what you used? Welding is a bad idea due to possible heat warp and jb weld or similar product has the chance of breaking apart and getting sucked through the rotors. I need to take it apart anyway so I can change the oil so am interested in closing those ports if there's a safe way to do so. Thanks for the info on it!

 

[marcus clarkus]

I wouldn't to put that much into a used one. You can buy a brand new one for under $3000. Plus, you know there will be unforeseen problems and items missing.
Auto anything has them on sale now for $2845 with free shipping.

After a rebuild, I think that would be too much money into the setup for what it is. You can find a Gen2 supercharger and dynamic tensioner for that price. I just bought my Gen2, 2.2 pulley and 7th injector in good condition for 2600. Just purchased new gaskets, belt and oil. But that is just my 2 cents :tea:

You don't absolutely need a rebuild, often it just needs an oil change. If you go back far enough in this thread you'll rarely hear of any superchargers failing over time. They just get noisy. Same goes with coating the rotors, you don't need to do it. However, a dynamic tensioner will save a lot of headache.

I agree with the thoughts above, if you are looking to get a tip-tip shape supercharger, just buy new. That way you know everything is a good as gets. If you are looking for Boost on a Budget (I should start a TV show!) buy it as-is, install as-is and go enjoy it!

Cool thank you for all the feedback guys. I'll try to talk the price down to $800 or so -- if that does't work then I'll keep hunting for another one.

 

[White Stripe]

Sounds like it could be interesting as I personally like the sound of the s/c. It sounds like you did this to yours, would you mind sharing what you used? Welding is a bad idea due to possible heat warp and jb weld or similar product has the chance of breaking apart and getting sucked through the rotors. I need to take it apart anyway so I can change the oil so am interested in closing those ports if there's a safe way to do so. Thanks for the info on it!

I think I used liquid steel. I roughed in the back side with a whiz wheel with 36 grit disc. Cleaned well, then filled hole with quite a bit smudged on the back side. Then I took a razor blade and ran it flush along the inside carefully and trimmed off the excess on the inside. Then let it dry for 24hrs. Also the bypass elbow orings typically need replaced, I think Jonbond performance sells them. He also has good supercharger oil he sells.

 

[White Stripe]

Wow, yeah you've more than surpassed the limits of what the TRD supercharger can do. The stock heads and cams do not flow enough air to warrant anything more than the 2.1" pulley though I think. I just finished tuning the 2.0" pulley and it only made 1 PSI more than the 2.1 in 3rd gear, and only 0.5 PSI more in 2nd gear! Not impressed at all plus it doesn't fit all that great, somehow it threw off my pulley nut!

A turbo is the way to go if you want the maximum possible amount of HP though, this M62 supercharger is just to small to put out extreme numbers.

How do you port this supercharger and was it worth it? Was it a local shop or a specialty supercharger place?

Hopefully u didn't get a 4 cylinder pulley, they fit but don't fit right. I did the port n polish myself. Shaved .20 off of my 0-60 time at 5k feet altitude, so not sure it was worth it. But I gave it a shot. Yea smaller pulleys help but aren't super impressive. I've ran as small as a 1.8" on mine. I did smoke a road rager accord with the 1.8 though lol. Had trouble with belt slippage so I took it off. That was b4 I got the dynamic tensioner though. It wasn't much faster than the 2.0 pulley.

 

[CalebDawson]

4runner surging under load question.

hope all are well, Ive made very few post but when I have I've received tons of help, so thanks for that!

Question.
I have a 2001 supercharged T4R with the URD 7th injector and 2.2 pulley. I am getting surging under load my RPMs bounce somewhere between 2k and 3K or so and my A/F gauge bounces form 11.2 to 13.7 or so when this is happening also, at idle the A/F is at 14.6 it only happen when trying to accelerate, things I've done changed the A/F sensor the MAF sensor plugs are new wires are new, for some reference when I run with the A/F sensor unplugged it doesn't surge but as expected it throws a code and idles rough. also the truck started to do this before the supercharger and 7th was installed but has gotten more prominent since. things I suspect are blocked cats maybe, I pulled my front cat and I can still see some light shine through it from a flashlight, I having pulled my back cat but looking from the front of truck to the back through it looks pretty bad. also thought about if it could be an injector but since it only happens under load I'm not sure. if anyone has experienced this or have any suggestions I would appreciated the help. thanks!

 

[QuinnJ86]

URD 7th injector kit tuning

Hey guys, so Im rebuilding my SC and after that Id like to tune it. I bought the R4 split second software and USB to serial cable. I have read this http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/201123-urd-7th-injector-tuning-guide.html but I still have a question.

1. When tuning, am I tuning for each gear? (My truck is a 5 speed)

2. Do I perform a 1st gear pull, tune it, then move to 2nd gear?

Sorry for the noob question.

 

[White Stripe]

hope all are well, Ive made very few post but when I have I've received tons of help, so thanks for that!

Question.
I have a 2001 supercharged T4R with the URD 7th injector and 2.2 pulley. I am getting surging under load my RPMs bounce somewhere between 2k and 3K or so and my A/F gauge bounces form 11.2 to 13.7 or so when this is happening also, at idle the A/F is at 14.6 it only happen when trying to accelerate, things I've done changed the A/F sensor the MAF sensor plugs are new wires are new, for some reference when I run with the A/F sensor unplugged it doesn't surge but as expected it throws a code and idles rough. also the truck started to do this before the supercharger and 7th was installed but has gotten more prominent since. things I suspect are blocked cats maybe, I pulled my front cat and I can still see some light shine through it from a flashlight, I having pulled my back cat but looking from the front of truck to the back through it looks pretty bad. also thought about if it could be an injector but since it only happens under load I'm not sure. if anyone has experienced this or have any suggestions I would appreciated the help. thanks!

Try replacing the fuel filter. Or check fuel pressure.

 

[CalebDawson]

will do, also I took it to my locale shop that I trust today (all Toyota technicians) and talked to them, had them drive it they are thinking its a blocked cat causing high back pressure seeing how my motor is running slightly hotter then normal also, so I will drop the cat and run it around the block and see how it changes things. thanks for the response I"ll update as I learn more.

 

[CalebDawson]

surging issue figured out.

so I dropped the front cat enough to releave back pressure and it runs outstanding! better then it has in a few years. So I for sure have some blockage in the cats, I"ll order and replace them soon. for reference my truck has 210K on it and in the ten years of owning it I've pulled lots of mountain passes in it and regularly tow a small trailer behind it so I guess its time to replace the cats. If any of you guys experience any of these symptoms don't rule out your cats to quickly, the supercharger just made this issue way more noticeable I guess because of all the extra air needing to go somewhere. Thanks again

 

[pygmy warrior]

Towing Limit

My truck is listed with a 5000lb towing limit. Looking at the frame it appears to be a well made, strong frame. I use brakes on the trailer when towing, so I have no problems stopping. The limiting factor is the engine, from what I can determine.
Now that I have added a s/c, would it now have a higher towing limit?

 

[NWFL4Runner]

AFR gauge

Hey all - so I wired up my boost and afr gauge and am trying to figure out how folks ran the sensor wire to the exhaust. Did everyone just go through the main wire loom by the drivers kick panel or is there some other way that keeps more wire inside?

 

[Hepar]

My truck is listed with a 5000lb towing limit. Looking at the frame it appears to be a well made, strong frame. I use brakes on the trailer when towing, so I have no problems stopping. The limiting factor is the engine, from what I can determine.
Now that I have added a s/c, would it now have a higher towing limit?

No. There are other factors involved when determining towing capacity that are non-engine related.

 

[Speedy]

Yeah, I wish....I have a Hellcat I'd like to tow back and forth to the race track and would put the max weight with trailer at about 7500lbs. All my buddies told me don't try it. Tail wagging the dog was the term mentioned.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Hey all - so I wired up my boost and afr gauge and am trying to figure out how folks ran the sensor wire to the exhaust. Did everyone just go through the main wire loom by the drivers kick panel or is there some other way that keeps more wire inside?

The main wire (ECU) loom is the best way to do it. Just thread it on through. tie it down along the way in the dash. Because your exhaust is on the passenger's side it makes it easier.

If your sensor has a connector half-way along to separate the sensor from the wiring, makes sure you put it in a simple to access location. I've had to disconnect my AFR gauge twice for various reasons and it's right in the engine bay near the firewall for me, very easy to get to.

Zip ties are your friend.

 

[pygmy warrior]

No. There are other factors involved when determining towing capacity that are non-engine related.

Right, I pointed two of them out...frame and brakes. What else would be a determining factor? Transmission and rear end come to mind also.
I regularly tow a 5800lb camper with no problem. I towed it a couple of times before adding the s/c and it struggled up hills. Not a problem now. I use a weight distributing hitch so I don't have any problems with swaying.

 

[NWFL4Runner]

The main wire (ECU) loom is the best way to do it. Just thread it on through. tie it down along the way in the dash. Because your exhaust is on the passenger's side it makes it easier.

If your sensor has a connector half-way along to separate the sensor from the wiring, makes sure you put it in a simple to access location. I've had to disconnect my AFR gauge twice for various reasons and it's right in the engine bay near the firewall for me, very easy to get to.

Zip ties are your friend.

Thanks man! Gonna knock it out tonight

 

[Hepar]

Right, I pointed two of them out...frame and brakes. What else would be a determining factor? Transmission and rear end come to mind also.
I regularly tow a 5800lb camper with no problem. I towed it a couple of times before adding the s/c and it struggled up hills. Not a problem now. I use a weight distributing hitch so I don't have any problems with swaying.

Transmission for sure. The big one I'd say is actually where the tow hitch and frame meet.

 

[Sean-Himself]

Lmao sucks to suck I make 7.5psig with the 2.36" pulley lol yay being at 700ft above sea level!!!

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Damn wtf, I have the 2.2 and 7th injector at a 200' elevation and can't seem to make it past 5psi... :redbrick:

 

[pygmy warrior]

Transmission for sure. The big one I'd say is actually where the tow hitch and frame meet.

Thanks for the help! I am going to have a look at mine and see if it might need some reinforcement.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Anyone notice a "rattling" of sorts when cold? I haven't exactly been kind to my supercharger lately, but I've started to notice a bit of a rattle noise when I first start up and under very light acceleration. Once it's warm and the idle drops it goes back to normal.

I'm GUESSING it's the supercharger but I don't know for sure. Definitely engine related though. I don't have a valve knock, I know what that sounds like and it's much more rhythmic. This is more of a metal on metal rattling.