pygmy warrior
New member
I installed mine last year and being a very meticulous person, it took me about 6 hours. That included installing new plugs and cleaning the engine bay as I went along. Keep us posted on your progress.
The 3.4L TRD Supercharger Thread
- Thread starter SCRunner12
- Start date
Do you know where I can get these orings? Or is there a way to test if mine are bad without having the truck running? I would rather do all the maintenance on the bench instead of when it is bolted to the motor.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
In the time it took to watch that video 3 times you could have installed it. It's completely bolt-on except for cutting the time belt upper cover. You'll be surprised at how simple it really is.
Your local auto parts store should sell the t-fittings, the O'Reilly's did for me. If not you can get one easy enough from Ebay/Amazon.
White Stripe
New member
The elbow should feel nice and snug, if u can wiggle it by hand easily then the are likely bad. Try Jon bond performance for new ones.
pygmy warrior
New member
You can take the old one to your local hydraulics repair and they can measure and match it.
So I think the elbow is loose I can wiggle it vertically slightly. I am going ahead with the install and will work on the leak if it is really an issue.
After today at work I was able to get the oil change done and was able to cut the spacer down.
Tomorrow I am busy using the truck as a truck so I wont have much of a chance to do much. Hopefully I can do the spark plugs and the T stat so sunday I can do the install.
Alright guys I started on the truck tonight. I got through most of the install. I got the blower on and bolted up. I only had one major set back, the T stat didnt come with a new gasket. So I had to run and get that along with coolant because I thought I had more then I did. This is was my stopping point, I still need to hook everything up and do the plugs.
Sean-Himself
New member
First off, your picture of the 4runners backed into the garage made me laugh. My wife drives a red '17 TRD OffRoad and we both back into the garage as well.
Second (back to my boost issue...) I vacuum tested the actuator. I believe I pulled 10psi and it did drop about 5psi but after about 15 minutes. Not sure if that slow of a leak would cause my issue?
Also, I was under the impression that the actuator controlled how quickly the boost comes on?
Hello I am almost done with my install but I have gotten to the point where I need some help from someone else with a gen 1 SC.
1: My Transmission kick down cable is too short and I cant find a way to make it longer.
2: I am not sure where this line is suppose to connect.
3: This guy came off when I was doing the T Stat but I cant find the bung to hook it back up.
4: I have these 2 ports on the back. Per the Timmy video I believe one of them is suppose to be capped but not sure (Ignore the cap on currently) I know the bottom one is the crank case vent bung, I just need to get more hose to run it back over to the intake.
1: My Transmission kick down cable is too short and I cant find a way to make it longer.
2: I am not sure where this line is suppose to connect.
3: This guy came off when I was doing the T Stat but I cant find the bung to hook it back up.
4: I have these 2 ports on the back. Per the Timmy video I believe one of them is suppose to be capped but not sure (Ignore the cap on currently) I know the bottom one is the crank case vent bung, I just need to get more hose to run it back over to the intake.
4Reak Show
New member
I believe #3 is for your 4wd solenoids. It just needs to connect to engine vacuum. Tee-ing into the EVAP line would accomplish this. I think that's how the second Gen charger diagrams it.
Also I found this. I had saved it into my photo library a while back. Not sure how accurate but it's the 1st Gen charger for sure.
Also I found this. I had saved it into my photo library a while back. Not sure how accurate but it's the 1st Gen charger for sure.
4Reak Show
New member
Check out the pic of the diagram I posted a couple posts back. Looks like brake booster hose location
So I got all the hosing set right. Thank you for the diagram it was very helpful. Now I got it all buttoned up and ready to turn the key (minus the transmissions kickdown cable still trying to figure out routing.
SO>>>>>>
turned the key and nothing. Battery must have drained no biggie hook up the jumper cables and good to go. Tried that and got a click from the starter and nothing. I cant seem to figure out what is going on. All I get when turning the key is rapid clicks, is it possible that I wrecked my starter or that just my shit luck the starter when bad.
SO>>>>>>
turned the key and nothing. Battery must have drained no biggie hook up the jumper cables and good to go. Tried that and got a click from the starter and nothing. I cant seem to figure out what is going on. All I get when turning the key is rapid clicks, is it possible that I wrecked my starter or that just my shit luck the starter when bad.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Double-check any sensors you might have disconnected. Also, if you have a code reader, hook it up and see if it's throwing a code, that should tell you if a sensor is not connected correctly.
You mentioned you did spark plugs? Make sure everything is secure and in place. The one click does sound like bad starter contacts though but the don't just quit all at once, so if it is the starter tap it with a hammer and crank it over some more.
Also, if you are jumping it sometimes it takes 10-15 min of juice to have enough to crank the engine.
4Reak Show
New member
Yes. ^^^. Rapid clicks is low battery. Charge it for a bit.
HOORAY I got it running and driving! Now it sounds like a tin of marbles when stopped, it quiets down once I give it some gas, so I have gathered that I need to rebuild the front cone :/ I still cant complain too much for a $120 SC.
Thank you everyone for their help! I will start researching cone rebuilds if anyone has a good DIY or knows what parts I need that would be great.
Thank you everyone for their help! I will start researching cone rebuilds if anyone has a good DIY or knows what parts I need that would be great.
gamefreakgc
Elite Member
Check the first post of this thread, all the info you need is there. Rebuilding the grey S/C's are a lot more work than the black ones but not impossible.
volkinator
New member
I'm on the West side in Saint Louis Park
Hepar
New member
Hear that [MENTION=69868]LittleCaesar[/MENTION]? Found someone who got a better deal than I did!
