My Bi-Metal Vacuum Switching Valve in the EVAP system remains inoperative. It seems that the ports have broken off due to corrosion. I by-passed it. Things seem to be o.k. Does anyone have a comment?
First, plug the lines, don't connect them together.
Second, you may need switch working when it comes to emissions testing if you have any (not sure where your from).
Third, the switch shuts off cannister vapors when the engine is cold and opens it when it warms up. At some point you may get a CEL to do rich or lean condition when the engine is warm.
So this awesome thread has established that the BVSV that the mechanics broke (so I had to buy from the local Stealership for $100) is an unnecessary part?
DO NOT CAP THE LINES!!!!!
the bvsv just controls when the evap purges.
It won't make any difference to speak of.
Put the lines together or run the canister line to the pre-bvsv port.
They broke two sensors and then lied to my face Swifty. When I asked them how those two sensors got broken, they shrugged their shoulders and said "We don't know."
What was I supposed to do? Call the mechanics liars right to their faces in their shop with half my engine apart at the time?
The BVSV they broke could not be located (new) anywhere in my area, so I was FORCED to buy it from the local Stealership.
How exactly was I a fool again? because I replaced a sensor which was broken in half?
Think before you post ... Swifty. Especially before starting a new thread.
Snapped the BVSP port while trying to replace the vacuums lines. As of now, I have left the line open, not connected or plugged. Just got a CEL 52, (knock sensor fault) and I doubt it has anything to do with the BVSP but just checking. Should the line be capped or just bypass the BVSP and plug it straight into the throttle body?