The Green Machine!

[mountain-biker]

Hello!

My name is Peter and I would like to introduce my new (to me) 3rd Gen 4Runner, The Green Machine. We reside in the Bay Area and look forward to meeting other enthusiasts in the region and contributing to the forum. Thank you to all who have put time into making free tutorials and posting them here; they have helped me immensely. Onto the truck!

I purchased the truck in Sacramento on Craigslist over a month ago. I took a risk as it had a salvage title due to a gnarly front end collision however after owning it a month I am happy with my purchase.

Notable features:

• 84,050 original miles (Carfax verified)
• 3.4L 5VZ-FE
• Manual transmission
• Locking rear differential
• Year 2000
• Leather interior
• 2.5" Bilstein lift
• No frame rust

The primary issue is the drivers door, front fenders, hood and bumper are a different shade of green than the rest of the vehicle. I solved this issue with a bit of mud.

I have a variety of enhancements planned while staying true to OEM styling. I have so far had the oil, timing belt, water pump and radiator replaced. I have done new headlight bulbs, wipers, wheels, wheel spacers and hitch. My next project is longer sway bar end links.

 

[TheSaturnV]

Love it!

Check those lower ball joints pronto.

 

[pluton]

I voted "Good deal", but if I could have, I'd have called it an "OK deal".
X2 on the lower ball joints, and don't forget to change out all the gear oil: trans, transfer, front and rear differential. Grease U-joints on propeller shafts. Be ready to replace the water hoses that go to the oil cooler.
You paid approximate market price in CA. I paid $8K in 2013 for my '97, with 120K miles and in good shape minus a few surprise repairs.

 

[mountain-biker]

I voted "Good deal", but if I could have, I'd have called it an "OK deal".
X2 on the lower ball joints, and don't forget to change out all the gear oil: trans, transfer, front and rear differential. Grease U-joints on propeller shafts. Be ready to replace the water hoses that go to the oil cooler.
You paid approximate market price in CA. I paid $8K in 2013 for my '97, with 120K miles and in good shape minus a few surprise repairs.

Thank you both for the safety concerns around the LBJ's. I will inspect them myself following Tim's tutorial: YouTube
I had the car inspected at a shop before purchase and the notes were a coolant leak (now resolved) and steering rack leak with play in drivers inner tie rod. I made no explicit mention of LBJ however it was not reported. I will follow up myself. The surprise repairs comment is very accurate! I expected the rack to go for a while but it began to make noise at low speed. I bought an OEM replacement with outer tie rods on the forum for $500 shipped and am looking for a shop to install soon.

P.S. I am gathering info to do fluid changes in everything you mentioned. The recommended gear oils and washers required. I had the U-joints greased in the drive shaft but put a ton of pumps in. I have since learned this is bad. Please advise. Water hoses to oil cooler were not on my radar at all.

 

[gsb77]

If you're happy with it, then I'm happy for you. Drive it and enjoy it.

 

[mtbtim]

Welcome to the club. Since you live in the Bay Area, if you have a project Sean and I haven't filmed yet, you should hit us up because we might be interested in helping you with it so we can make another video for our channel. We also have subscriber parties at my house in San Jose. We use to have multiple per year but now we're planning on having just one party every year in the Summer. Our next party will most likely be in June.

If you're not already subscribed, subscribe to our channel so you'll find out about our next party because we do a video invite usually at least 1 month before the date of the party.

YouTube

Tim (aka Timmy the Toolman)

 

[mtbtim]

Thank you both for the safety concerns around the LBJ's. I will inspect them myself following Tim's tutorial: YouTube
I had the car inspected at a shop before purchase and the notes were a coolant leak (now resolved) and steering rack leak with play in drivers inner tie rod. I made no explicit mention of LBJ however it was not reported. I will follow up myself. The surprise repairs comment is very accurate! I expected the rack to go for a while but it began to make noise at low speed. I bought an OEM replacement with outer tie rods on the forum for $500 shipped and am looking for a shop to install soon.

P.S. I am gathering info to do fluid changes in everything you mentioned. The recommended gear oils and washers required. I had the U-joints greased in the drive shaft but put a ton of pumps in. I have since learned this is bad. Please advise. Water hoses to oil cooler were not on my radar at all.

It's a bummer you didn't do a little more research or ask a question on this forum about your steering noise at low speed. It's VERY possible that your power steering reservoir screen is just clogged and starving your rack of fluid. Do yourself of a favor and check out our video for flushing the power steering system and cleaning the reservoir screen. You might be able to forego replacing the rack. If the place that sold it to you won't take it back, you could always sell it for a slight loss or just hang onto it for a time when you actually need it.

For the driveshaft greasing, you want to shoot grease into the u-joints until you see grease squirting out of each bearing cup. For the slip yokes, you can over-grease them which isn't good. If the slip yoke cavity is completely full of grease, under compression of the driveshaft when the suspension compresses, there's no where for that pressure to go. Sometimes, it can blow the plug out of the slip yoke. If you think it's overly greased, take the zerk fitting out and jump up and down on the rear bumper. Cycling the suspension will force excessive grease out of the zerk fitting and then you'll most likely be good to go. Greasing the slip yoke via the zerk fitting isn't very effective because it doesn't really get grease all along the splines to properly lubricate it. An occasional removal of the slip yoke and manual greasing of the male and female splines is better in my opinion. When greasing via the zerk fitting, all the grease is at the bottom of the yoke and doesn't do anything to lubricate the upper part of the splines.

These videos will help you out.

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[APhelps]

For the driveshaft greasing...

I wonder about what actual frequency one needs to be greasing the driveshaft. Preface I know the Owners Manual / Tech Manual is 1 year / 12k(or 15k).

I know a lot of forum members are going to look down upon me but when I bought my 98 4Runner I ended up never greasing the driveshaft until it started make a minor bit of noise (ended up swapping the driveshaft) but I do wonder if I could of just greased it and been good to go. Once a year definitely seems to be plenty of grease for the driveshaft but it seems you can easily go a few years without any real trouble but I wouldn't recommend it.

 

[Reno - 3rd gen]

Welcome. For our area, the mileage, and options, I think you got a good deal! I bought my 5 speed 3rd gen SR5 in Mammoth for around $3,500 with 210,000 miles, and i've probably put around 10K into it. My build is a little different, but I did swap a sport hood on, LSD diffs front and rear etc. So I think even though you paid a good deal more upfront, you won't be paying to add more on down the line.

Make sure you add a rear diff breather kit (Marlin Crawler sells them). I blew a rear axle seal on one of my first trail runs due to mud clogging up the stock breather location (There's a few threads on this). Best of luck with your new runner

 

[APhelps]

So I did vote in the poll and personally I'm not a fan of buying a low mileage vehicle that is old. I think people over pay so a vehicle just to have low miles but the reality is the body, seals, springs and etc. have still been sitting for 20+ years. I'd rather pay less, do a bunch of work with new components and basically arrive at the same point. I'm befuddled by the people who pay 20k for a stock 3rd gen 4R with sub 100k miles.

I'd imagine it is a salvaged title since it got hit with somewhat minimal damage and was just totaled out through insurance. Doesn't take much on older cars for this to happen.

 

[TheSaturnV]

Welcome to the club. Since you live in the Bay Area, if you have a project Sean and I haven't filmed yet, you should hit us up because we might be interested in helping you with it so we can make another video for our channel.
Tim (aka Timmy the Toolman)

Didn't know you were on here. Thanks a million for your terrific channel, your videos have helped me out many times.

:thumb:

 

[TonyB66]

For the Bay Area, the condition and amount of original miles (quite low), a pretty rare find and worthy of the price paid, IMO.

Enjoy, and best to you and your 3rd gen in the New Year!

 

[jgue467]

If you're happy with it so be it! These rigs ended their downward pricing about 5 years ago so I think its reasonable. Do your homework and you'll be good.

Luck and enjoy the Runner. : ^ ))))

 

[mtbtim]

I wonder about what actual frequency one needs to be greasing the driveshaft. Preface I know the Owners Manual / Tech Manual is 1 year / 12k(or 15k).

I know a lot of forum members are going to look down upon me but when I bought my 98 4Runner I ended up never greasing the driveshaft until it started make a minor bit of noise (ended up swapping the driveshaft) but I do wonder if I could of just greased it and been good to go. Once a year definitely seems to be plenty of grease for the driveshaft but it seems you can easily go a few years without any real trouble but I wouldn't recommend it.

I think every 10k is sufficient for greasing the u-joints and slip yokes. Basically every other oil change if your oil change interval is ever 5k. I never go by time, always mileage, because mileage is much more relevant than time in regards to the maintenance of a vehicle. If somebody only drives 3k miles a year because their rig is a grocery getter, you would only need to grease the driveshaft once every 3 years. On the flip side, if you're driving a lot, say 30k miles a year, you might want to grease your zerks 3 times a year.

 

[mountain-biker]

Welcome to the club. Since you live in the Bay Area, if you have a project Sean and I haven't filmed yet, you should hit us up because we might be interested in helping you with it so we can make another video for our channel. We also have subscriber parties at my house in San Jose. We use to have multiple per year but now we're planning on having just one party every year in the Summer. Our next party will most likely be in June.

If you're not already subscribed, subscribe to our channel so you'll find out about our next party because we do a video invite usually at least 1 month before the date of the party.

YouTube

Tim (aka Timmy the Toolman)

Thank you for the warm welcome and invites; I will take you up on both! Here are my planned projects, let me know if any sound new and interesting to film.

1. LBJ inspection/replacement
2. Seafoam treatment
3. Fluid film
4. Head unit, stubby antenna, backup camera, door speakers, tweeters and amp install
5. Preparing and painting grille and grille extensions with color matched spray paint
6. Remove front bumper top pad
7. Rear hatch shocks with 3D printed bushings
8. Sleeping platform
9. Fix passenger DRL wiring
10. Fix drivers auto window
11. Spark plugs & wires
12. Full power steering flush and reservoir cleaning
13. Fluid replacement in both diffs, transfer case and transmission
14. Sway bar bushings and extended end links
15. Diff breather kit
16. Diff drop kit
17. Pulling tail lights, rear cargo panels from junkyard and installing
18. Locker grey wire mod
19. 4 door weather strips
20. Sound deadening

I think #4 and #5 would be nice additions to your already excellent channel.

 

[mountain-biker]

It's a bummer you didn't do a little more research or ask a question on this forum about your steering noise at low speed. It's VERY possible that your power steering reservoir screen is just clogged and starving your rack of fluid. Do yourself of a favor and check out our video for flushing the power steering system and cleaning the reservoir screen. You might be able to forego replacing the rack. If the place that sold it to you won't take it back, you could always sell it for a slight loss or just hang onto it for a time when you actually need it.

For the driveshaft greasing, you want to shoot grease into the u-joints until you see grease squirting out of each bearing cup. For the slip yokes, you can over-grease them which isn't good. If the slip yoke cavity is completely full of grease, under compression of the driveshaft when the suspension compresses, there's no where for that pressure to go. Sometimes, it can blow the plug out of the slip yoke. If you think it's overly greased, take the zerk fitting out and jump up and down on the rear bumper. Cycling the suspension will force excessive grease out of the zerk fitting and then you'll most likely be good to go. Greasing the slip yoke via the zerk fitting isn't very effective because it doesn't really get grease all along the splines to properly lubricate it. An occasional removal of the slip yoke and manual greasing of the male and female splines is better in my opinion. When greasing via the zerk fitting, all the grease is at the bottom of the yoke and doesn't do anything to lubricate the upper part of the splines.

I purchased the steering rack from [MENTION=91297]Kraze[/MENTION] because $500 shipped with outer tie rods brand new OEM is a good deal compared to Camelback Toyota. I will take your advice and do a full power steering flush and reservoir cleaning and go from there (hold onto rack either way).

The truck was on the lift at a shop while the old tires were being balanced and I asked if the slop in the driveshaft was okay. The tech handed me the grease pump and held it to the fitting and told me to keep pumping. I watched as the drive shaft expanded about 2cm. We did this process at multiple points on the drive shaft. The grease was red and thick. I don't think either of us knew what we were doing. I will again take your advice and remove the rear zerk fitting and jump like crazy on the hitch to expel some grease.

 

[mountain-biker]

Welcome. For our area, the mileage, and options, I think you got a good deal! I bought my 5 speed 3rd gen SR5 in Mammoth for around $3,500 with 210,000 miles, and i've probably put around 10K into it. My build is a little different, but I did swap a sport hood on, LSD diffs front and rear etc. So I think even though you paid a good deal more upfront, you won't be paying to add more on down the line.

Make sure you add a rear diff breather kit (Marlin Crawler sells them). I blew a rear axle seal on one of my first trail runs due to mud clogging up the stock breather location (There's a few threads on this). Best of luck with your new runner

Thank you for the warm welcome. I opted to spend more upfront as I have limited tools and locations to work on the truck. I monitored the market for over three months and test drove several before arriving at this one. I'm happy to hear your opinion. I have added the rear diff breather kit to my list!

Axle Breather Kit | Marlin Crawler, Inc.

 

[mountain-biker]

So I did vote in the poll and personally I'm not a fan of buying a low mileage vehicle that is old. I think people over pay so a vehicle just to have low miles but the reality is the body, seals, springs and etc. have still been sitting for 20+ years. I'd rather pay less, do a bunch of work with new components and basically arrive at the same point. I'm befuddled by the people who pay 20k for a stock 3rd gen 4R with sub 100k miles.

I'd imagine it is a salvaged title since it got hit with somewhat minimal damage and was just totaled out through insurance. Doesn't take much on older cars for this to happen.

The omitted rationale for opting to get a more expensive but lower milage 3rd gen was my lack of tooling and area to wrench at the moment. I was dying to join the club and this one had all the options I was looking for and despite the steep price tag, I went for it. No looking back! I have attached pictures of the damage which led to the salvage title. Frame saw no damage amazingly.

 

[APhelps]

Certainly in good shape and if it was repaired correctly isn't that bad of a deal. Salvage vehicles just unfortunately always carry a stigma to them.

 

[mountain-biker]

For the Bay Area, the condition and amount of original miles (quite low), a pretty rare find and worthy of the price paid, IMO.

Enjoy, and best to you and your 3rd gen in the New Year!

Thank you and happy new year to you as well! I am seriously enjoying the truck. I have been to Yosemite, Pismo, Santa Cruz and Rowher Flats so far and camped in it for several nights - it is awesome. A great fit for my lifestyle. The negatives so far have been the MPG and harsher ride than anticipated. I love to MTB and the ability to now drive off-road lets me share elements of the MTB experience with others. Stoked I got this one!!