B
BReardon21
Guest
It's a 4Runner!!!
the horrible gas milage my 04 is getting
- Thread starter 2004TR4-SR5
- Start date
ronsta
New member
Well to be fair yes they are usually generous but not to the point of getting over 100 miles per gallon more than normal non testing conditions.
Being the original owner of my '07 v6 I can attest to the fact that I used to see 425+ miles to go on the range display and now seeing 320 after every fill up does not make me a happy camper. I know a lot of other owners are having this issue as well & have no idea what's wrong. Maybe if this gets enough attention then Toyota will actually care and investigate into the issue.
Another thread regarding MPGs but for some reason thread was closed not long after. One member posts that his old vehicle had an open thermostat and thus caused a drop in mileage, anyone know what that is?
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/65934-getting-chittay-gas-mileage-help.html#post557871
Enjoy it while you can because after about 2 months, it will go back to what you were used to getting. I gained about 2 mpg and it's all gone.
ronnieROCKS
New member
I get 13mpg damn mods
Oh well
Oh well
ronsta
New member
I get 13mpg damn mods
Oh well
V6 ? Some might be b/c of the mods but even for those with no mods or close to no mods there seems to be an issue that even an OBD2 scanner isn't detecting.
ronnieROCKS
New member
When i threw on the sw bumper lift tires k&n cai i was getting 16-18 cant remember.
I just put on a cbi rear bumper now im at 13.3 mpg and i have a v6
I do drive travel quite a bit but i dont mind too much i know what i was getting mysel into
I just put on a cbi rear bumper now im at 13.3 mpg and i have a v6
I do drive travel quite a bit but i dont mind too much i know what i was getting mysel into
ronsta
New member
From what you describe your truck is actually running fine compared to what some of us are experiencing.
To put it into perspective you were getting 16-18 after you threw on a steel bumper, bigger tires and a lift, some folks including myself are only seeing 13-15 MPGs w/o any extra weight!
Very nice build you have there. How does the ride feel with all the extra weight on a basically stock suspension?
To put it into perspective you were getting 16-18 after you threw on a steel bumper, bigger tires and a lift, some folks including myself are only seeing 13-15 MPGs w/o any extra weight!
Very nice build you have there. How does the ride feel with all the extra weight on a basically stock suspension?
Same problem & why I joined
I am actually having the same problem and it's the reason I joined this site. Have an '04 SR5 with the V6. 119,000 miles on it. I was using the computer for mpg's all the time since new. Would reset with every fill-up. I would average 18 - 18.5 mpg all the time all year round. Around 115,000 miles I started averaging 16 to 17 mpg tops. Changed the spark plugs, air filter, new tires (same stock size) and am still getting the bad mileage. Have not cleaned the MAF but will try that next. Does anyone else have any ideas. I did not read all the posts, so excuse me if I am repeating someone else or looking for an answer that was alread posted. Thanks!
I am actually having the same problem and it's the reason I joined this site. Have an '04 SR5 with the V6. 119,000 miles on it. I was using the computer for mpg's all the time since new. Would reset with every fill-up. I would average 18 - 18.5 mpg all the time all year round. Around 115,000 miles I started averaging 16 to 17 mpg tops. Changed the spark plugs, air filter, new tires (same stock size) and am still getting the bad mileage. Have not cleaned the MAF but will try that next. Does anyone else have any ideas. I did not read all the posts, so excuse me if I am repeating someone else or looking for an answer that was alread posted. Thanks!
zstampe
New member
On my '03 V8, the computer is 1-2 mpg high. Try comparing it to hand-calculated mileage (miles driven divided by the gallons you pump into the tank).
First off hi all, this will be seen by some as poor etiquette by some for a first post but here goes...
A lot of people mentioned O2 sensors, but I don't remember reading where anyone so far has tried it. As a certified auto tech for over 15 years, I can attest to the fact that poor performing or "Lazy" O2 sensors can affect gas millage. If anyone wants to do this, replace the two upstream sensors or pre-catalyst. those are the important ones. the sensors after the catalytic converter are there only as watchdog to monitor the converter and the other sensors.
As far as other reasons for seemingly sudden poor economy, tire pressure, wheel alignment, sticking brakes sticking u-joints and wheel bearings are possible causes. Living in the great white north We still have gas with no ethanol, I go to the U.S. quite often filling with E10 kills fuel economy by about 10%.
Lastly, for those living in colder climates, two things. First it is true that air air temp decreases density increases. this in turn means more fuel to keep optimal A/F ratios, it also means more power though so the losses aren't drastic. Secondly, when a vehicle is cold it operates in what is called "open Loop" mode. Before certain things are at a certain temperature (O2 Sensors mainly) the vehicle disregards certain readings and runs a preset fuel map. this is richer and helps warm up quicker. the colder it is the longer this process takes.
So, there it is, my first post here. I hope This helps a couple people out, that those getting poor millage can find a solution.
Jesse
A lot of people mentioned O2 sensors, but I don't remember reading where anyone so far has tried it. As a certified auto tech for over 15 years, I can attest to the fact that poor performing or "Lazy" O2 sensors can affect gas millage. If anyone wants to do this, replace the two upstream sensors or pre-catalyst. those are the important ones. the sensors after the catalytic converter are there only as watchdog to monitor the converter and the other sensors.
As far as other reasons for seemingly sudden poor economy, tire pressure, wheel alignment, sticking brakes sticking u-joints and wheel bearings are possible causes. Living in the great white north We still have gas with no ethanol, I go to the U.S. quite often filling with E10 kills fuel economy by about 10%.
Lastly, for those living in colder climates, two things. First it is true that air air temp decreases density increases. this in turn means more fuel to keep optimal A/F ratios, it also means more power though so the losses aren't drastic. Secondly, when a vehicle is cold it operates in what is called "open Loop" mode. Before certain things are at a certain temperature (O2 Sensors mainly) the vehicle disregards certain readings and runs a preset fuel map. this is richer and helps warm up quicker. the colder it is the longer this process takes.
So, there it is, my first post here. I hope This helps a couple people out, that those getting poor millage can find a solution.
Jesse
Great Info!!
ronsta
New member
Jesse, first off welcome! secondly should poor performing O2 sensors trip a check engine light (CEL) ?
ClockWork
Banned
Not always.
SR5 Iron
New member
Also is there a way to diagnose a "lazy" O2 sensor with an ohm meter or other diagnostic tool?
Have you read this thread? Your post in no way can be considered poor etiquette. Welcome to the forum, please feel free to contribute your knowledge.
ClockWork
Banned
Fixed.
BlackWorksInc
New member
There is a way to test an O2 Sensor, but it requires a DSO (Digital Storage Osiliscope), as for testing the AFRs, I have not found a proven and reliable method for testing them yet, but I would be more than happy to share it if I ever do find it.
As far as testing a poor performing O2 sensor. What blackworksinc says is pretty accurate, it is difficult to "see" a lazy O2 live. they just swing too fast, even when not working great. And if they're that bad you'll get a CEL.
One thing I didn't think to mention earlier is a partially clogged Catalytic converter. I have a ford escape that had one (they're prone) that seemed to run fine for a while after startup or in town but when on the highway I would start to feel slight losses in power after say 40-50 miles. A back pressure test confirmed it and help power and economy after replacing.
So for the o2 sensors, for most guys who don't have access to a free tech with an oscilloscope. and are sick of banging your head might just be cheaper to change them out. Let's put it this way, I have my own shop and don't have one. I could borrow the dusty one they have at the dealer I used to work at, if it still works... but for 200$ a pair (for the good ones at rockauto) I'd just change them.
Jesse
