Just replaced another rear caliper a few weeks ago. That makes 5 total calipers in over 160k (once per, with the passenger rear repeat).
I did the rebuild once, got the T-shirt, don't care to do it again.
This last one was frozed up (sorry, couldn't resist!) and I removed it, soaked it with PB Blaster inside, rinsed several times with brake fluid, reinstalled and it was shortly the same drag, so replaced it.
Advance Auto has the rears, about $70 with about $70 core (return the old one for credit) WITH the bracket. Drop dead simple choice.
IIRC, I ordered the fronts from autopartswarehouse com for about $90/ea a couple of years back. The slide pins were MUCH, MUCH better than the originals. They have never rusted to a larger diameter like the originals.
Use never sieze in the right places, changes are very easy.
I use an empty coffee can an let the brake fluid drip into it while changing calipers. Make sure your reservoir is filled, cap off but sitting on top to reduce chances of contamination by moisture or debris.
I open the bleeders and then tighten, then loosen again BEFORE installing. Sometimes the threads are a bit tight and this helps break things in and seat in correctly where you can actually get at it
Push the caliper piston all the way into the caliper to avoid getting air trapped in the piston.
I then fill the caliper with brake fluid, let it sit a few mins, dump it out, refill, then install.
Once you've installed the brake line, I leave the bleeder cracked open and let some fluid run out before tightening the bleeder. It REALLY speeds up the brake bleeding process.
Note that it is important to clean up all the brake fluid as it RUSTS EVERYTHING!
Don't forget to top off the reservoir with brake fluid (Fill line) and put the cap back on.
Tips:
1. Be sure you don't forget the crush washers on the banjo bolt (bolt of the brake line with the hole through the center).
2. Make sure the flat part of the brake line bracket lines up with the one on the caliper and is facing away from the rotor
3. Be careful not to pinch, kink, or otherwise damage the brake line. If changing just the brakes (not the caliper), I use a piece of wire to tie the caliper to the coil to keep its weight off the brake line.
IMHO, it seems that the rear pistons have a high fail rate if you let the brake pad get down too far. It appears the piston comes out and then wants to kink (maybe?) and stick.
For $70, it's a no-brainer to replace as necessary, IMHO.
I tow often, we have rough, windy, and hilly roads, we offroad as we feel like it, we get lots of snow/salt/junk on the roads. We often have to drive through a foot of snow for days or weeks at a time. I think I get my $$ worth.
Hope this helps!
