The Infamous FROZED UP brake Caliper

Replaced my second caliper due to "FROZED UP" and I am at about 175,000 miles. Interestingly enough when I bought the new caliper from O'Reilly's they gave me the wrong caliper. They sold me the 13WH caliper as my 4Runner came factory with 17" wheels and their site said it as the correct caliper. I came home and installed it only to realize it is not the same caliper on my 4Runner. My caliper is a 13WL and O'Reilly's doesn't sell that caliper, they sell a 13WG. After some research on the net it appears the 13WL and 13WG fit the same. All buttoned up now and brakes working well again.

BTW both times I had a frozen caliper the pads were very worn. I am wondering if heavily worn pads can lead to the frozen caliper due to them being pushed out all the way and leading to more corrosion.
 
BTW both times I had a frozen caliper the pads were very worn. I am wondering if heavily worn pads can lead to the frozen caliper due to them being pushed out all the way and leading to more corrosion.

A few years ago I was replacing pads at 50% for a few changes thinking this was the problem, but sure enough they just Frozed UP again like clockwork. I even did fluid changes more frequently which didn’t help either.


I’m on set #5 in the last 8 years. Funny thing is my rears are still original.

Being in the rust belt we just have to suck it up.
I keep a spare set ready to go now. At least the prices on the rebuilt units have come down a lot over the years.
 
So I was going to replace my pads on the weekend, pulled the driver's side tire off, took the pins out (had quite a bit of trouble taking the bottom one out), pushed the outer pistons in, and then found out that both of the inner pistons are seized. A bit of swearing later, I put the driver's side back together with the old pads in and moved to the passenger's side (to check the caliper) only to find out that both inner pistons are seized as well. Some more swearing and I went online to search for options, which brought me to this thread.

The funny thing is that all four pads are worn out perfectly even to the extent that all four are pretty much identical in thickness. I thought that was quite amazing.

Does anyone have any recommendations for the brand of calipers to buy? Does anyone have a "long-enough" experience with Raybestos Opti-Cal?

Ideally, I would want to put something on that I will never have to think about again, even if it means paying significantly more (within reason, of course). On the other hand, it's a 2008 4Runner with just over 200,000 km (125,000 mi)...

Any thoughts and suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
 
I went to 5th gen calipers and rotors which are a direct fit to those with 17inch or bigger wheels.
you do get a bit more bite and the pistons in the calipers are slightly larger. I weny through 3 sets including the original 4th gen calipers before making the switch.. and the 5th gen calipers lasted the longest.

That said im about to change out the 5th gen calipers again for a new set due to a lazy piston. Rust belt and offroading kill these calipers.
 
Thanks for the response. Good info. I had no idea the fifth generation calipers would fit. Yes, my wheels are 17 inches.

It is just hard to believe that there is no "permanent" solution to this problem. The pads I was trying to replace were installed about 125,000 km ago and I am sure they will still last till winter at least (I will replace them when I choose the calipers though). The rotors were installed at the same time and they are still great and I will not be touching them. There are have to be calipers that last at least twice as long :)

If anyone else has more experience with brands and whatnot to contribute, please do so. I am sure I am not the only one who will greatly appreciate it.
 
Thanks for the response. Good info. I had no idea the fifth generation calipers would fit. Yes, my wheels are 17 inches.

It is just hard to believe that there is no "permanent" solution to this problem. The pads I was trying to replace were installed about 125,000 km ago and I am sure they will still last till winter at least (I will replace them when I choose the calipers though). The rotors were installed at the same time and they are still great and I will not be touching them. There are have to be calipers that last at least twice as long :)

If anyone else has more experience with brands and whatnot to contribute, please do so. I am sure I am not the only one who will greatly appreciate it.

I would say in general.. the 5th gen calipers do last twice as long or longer. Also the 4th gen pads are the same part number.. so its a direct swap.. You will need to change the rotors to 5th gen rotors which are also slightly thicker and less prone to warping.
If you want to sound fancy, its also the exact same part number as the lexus GX470/GX460 brakes. I think up until 2017. They may have changed them for this year but im not even sure thats the case.
You can cross check at www.rockauto.com
 
I would say in general.. the 5th gen calipers do last twice as long or longer. Also the 4th gen pads are the same part number.. so its a direct swap.. You will need to change the rotors to 5th gen rotors which are also slightly thicker and less prone to warping.
If you want to sound fancy, its also the exact same part number as the lexus GX470/GX460 brakes. I think up until 2017. They may have changed them for this year but im not even sure thats the case.
You can cross check at www.rockauto.com

Hi, I'm just jumping in on this conversation as i have just been advised I need new calipers on my 2003. It sure sounds like putting in 4th gen calipers is maybe not the way to go and that going with the 5th gen design is better. However, when I look at the calipers on rockauto and/or amazon for a 2003 they look completely different than the ones for a 2010. In particular, 4 pistons instead of 2. Am I missing something or am I just 'out to lunch'? Thanks for any advice.
 
I went through this recently, replaced the fronts with NAPA remans. I didn’t see or replace any washers. Where do they go? Thanks.
 
Hi, I'm just jumping in on this conversation as i have just been advised I need new calipers on my 2003. It sure sounds like putting in 4th gen calipers is maybe not the way to go and that going with the 5th gen design is better. However, when I look at the calipers on rockauto and/or amazon for a 2003 they look completely different than the ones for a 2010. In particular, 4 pistons instead of 2. Am I missing something or am I just 'out to lunch'? Thanks for any advice.


front should be 4 caliper .. rear is 2. you must have 17 inch wheels otherwise there is some modification of the dustshield you have to do. there is a 5th gen caliper swap mega thread if you search a bit
 
Reviving an old thread.

I bought all 4 calipers on Amazon recently for $172 plus tax, no core charge. It was a much better deal than buying just fronts or rears (over $100 for 2 calipers). I have the smaller WG calipers for those with 16” rims, even though I have stock 17” rims on my 2004 V8 Limited 4WD with 177k miles.

They are made by Callahan, and are semi loaded, meaning including everything but the pads. I replaced both fronts because one (FR) was leaking, and the FL because I broke the bleeder bolt/screw off because it was seized/rusty when trying to bleed the left side. My pads were still good, so I reused them.

The new calipers have only been on for a couple of weeks, so I don’t know how long they’ll last. So far, so good!

I also recently had to replace the whole front brake system (rotors, pads and calipers) on my kids’ 2007 Corolla LE (~96k miles) because the front right caliper was frozen. (~$200 for new pads, rotors and calipers through Amazon.) The FR brake sounded horrible before the fix because it was grinding. The left side looked ok, but I replaced both sides because I’ve read to do the L and R sides at the same time.
 
just put new calipers after both front ones had seized pistons

I know this is an old thread but incase it helps anyone today, I too discovered that I had rusty OEM calipers with seized pistons....(Meineke was rotating my tires and told me that the front ones were bent and needed replacement. Their estimate was $1100 for reman parts and labor including brake fluid bleed and flush....this made my mechanic friend spit out his coffee...he offered to do the job for free if I buy him a new 3 ton hydraulic jack and all the supplies for this job)

So after reading various 4Runner 4th gen threads on the subject, including this one, I decided to buy some zinc coated, "rust-protection" reman 13WG ones by ACDELCO (per front wheel specs in the 2006 4Runner SR5 V6 Service manual I downloaded to assist with repairs on my SR5 (V6/4.0L). The problem is that I naively ordered from Rock Auto before finding out how bad this company in recently years...DAMNIT

Anyway, we are pretty sure they sent the right parts (apparently sometimes they sent defective or random parts) but since these calipers did fit properly, despite having a paper inside stating that they were remanufactured for GM, my mechanic friend was confident in them, and believes the size was correct (Side question: Do some GM brake parts universally fit many 4WDs including Asian vehicles??) According to this complaint site about Rock Auto....they'll send totally unrelated parts to people who place orders, then not accept returns or ever refund people, nor respond re: botched orders!! Apparently its gotten really bad in 2019https://www.complaintsboard.com/rockauto-b124706 and I based my decision to use them off of info from old threads!!

Well when we took the OEM front calipers off (not sure when they were last changed since I bought the car a year ago) they were badly rusted and we saw that a few of the pistons were seized in each front one. At least that validated one claim and one concern. (Nothing was "bent" as Meineke had said was happening...still not sure what that was about). Since the new calipers had extra rust protection both internally (zinc plated) and applied to the outside (some silver coating) they weren't cheap, but I'd hoped to get a core refund of $120 back upon returning my old ones....you have to actually place an order to be able to see the Rock Auto return policy and instructions through a separate menu and digging to eventually see where it says that the used cores must be returned in the same packaging that the new ones you were shipped, and can't be rusted in order to get your refund. Who gets new calipers when the old ones aren't rusted, first of all...so what degree of rust is unacceptable? Secondly, this is BS the packaging rule when what they shipped the new ones in was so flimsy and tattered when i arrived, that had to be thrown out. They had packaged those within a larger exterior box.... I didn't know, and recycled the damn box too before reading the policy since the calipers appeared to be legit when we put them on. I didn't anticipate not being able to return unrelated cores without the original box of the new calipers....is that ridiculous? Ofcourse there is no customer service number, live chat, email...nothing. At least I got the right parts....I think

Since flushing all 4 brake lines/the entire system, and putting the new calipers on the front, (Also replaced Rotors and brake shoes in the front with Powerstop cross- drilled, zinc-plated, "rust preventing" rotors and ceramic brakes that came as a set purchased via a seller on Amazon, at the same time + We flushed the powersteering fluid with new Dexron III as well) my almost 14 year old Graybaebae feels like a new car!

I just hope the parts actually hold up since it appears that Rock Auto's return policy is a joke, a lie and non- existent, as is the core rebate program....I was mad I didn't keep the box, but now I'm worried about the legitimacy of the parts. According to RockAuto Customer Service, Complaints and Reviews Rock Auto is selling counterfeit parts made in China instead of parts from the manufacturer they label them with....complaints have been made with local BBBs and a DA is involved in one case....I feel stupid for ordering from them. FOR NOW, this process seemed to work like a dream to remedy the situation, and i just may have lucked out and just happened to have received the correct, authentic reman part, that is not defective from them. Time will tell....

I can't tell you how smooth the 'Bae is to drive and brake in since we did all of this. We'll see how long this lasts...
 
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Natevans65 I also live in va I work at a dealership and what I've noticed is when you change calipers you should change the brake fluid as it is hydroscopic and causes caliper pistons to rust internally

Change the brake fluid. I'd change the rotors too A4W. They can be AM. Your current calipers can probably be freed up by good mechanic with 5000 miles. Take it to a good mechanic at a shop where brakes are done every day.

Caliber rebuilds are not as good as new.
 
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The inner pistons on both my fronts were seized up. For now I just freed them up and repeatedly cleaned, lubed and worked them in and out until they moved smoothly.

Not sure how much time it will take for them to freeze up again. I also packed a little grease in them behind the boots.

Oh, and if you pull the boots off and put grease behind them, beware you are going to have lots of fun putting the spring retaining clips back on the boots. One side had them and the other didn’t. I fought and cussed for what seemed like hours because the boots were old and a little stretched. Maybe PB blaster caused them them expand.

The side without them would not stay seated when the pistons were extended so I used thin wire and banded them. I should have done this to replace the clips on the other side.

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Change the brake fluid. I'd change the rotors too A4W. They can be AM. Your current calipers can probably be freed up by good mechanic with 5000 miles. Take it to a good mechanic at a shop where brakes are done every day.

Caliber rebuilds are not as good as new.

+1 On the New Brake Fluid for sure.
 
reviving with some pics related to my situation.

My '06 limitedv8 has burned through the rear inner pad. I was about to do a brake job (just got the vehicle so doing maintenance) and noticed the uneven wear. Already ordered Centric 120.44128 rotors and Akebono ASP606 pads. Now it looks like i need a couple of calipers.

I'd like to get the calipers in my possession (if indeed i'll need them) before i get the truck lifted and everything disassembled. Is pic indicative of a frozen piston?

I've found most people just rec the purchase of new, rebuilt calipers, instead of trying to salvage via cleaning/re-lubing.

This is TX truck so a bit flummoxed about this being an issue.

WNJmJHS.jpg
 
What does the other side look like in comparison?


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I need to check it out. I took that pic of the one side only. Was about to head out of town and it was hard enough, as you might imagine, to get one good pic with the caliper situated the way it is.

The fronts are fine. Even wear and plenty left.
 
Sorry, I was thinking of the front calipers that have multiple pistons.

Maybe clean and lube the pins that the movable side of the caliper slides on.


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most issues i have read about are front calipers, so yeah odd that it's the rears that are squirrely.

Sorry, I was thinking of the front calipers that have multiple pistons.

Maybe clean and lube the pins that the movable side of the caliper slides on.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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