The Mushroom Factory
- Thread starter tranny Frank
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tranny Frank
Banned
Sure
Sure,
I got banned because outfits like Ih8mud are extensions of the Toyota dealerships, and Corporate Toyota,
They dont like it one bit, Its preety obvious when you are on the outside looking in,
If interested I can point it out to you, have some key players that spout this misinformation, or I should say dis information that is when its intentionally false, deceptive,
Black propagandists,
Frank
Sure,
I got banned because outfits like Ih8mud are extensions of the Toyota dealerships, and Corporate Toyota,
They dont like it one bit, Its preety obvious when you are on the outside looking in,
If interested I can point it out to you, have some key players that spout this misinformation, or I should say dis information that is when its intentionally false, deceptive,
Black propagandists,
Frank
brian2sun
Elite Member
Grease just isn't an interesting topic. I suggest you move on to something a little more stimulating and you might find that life isn't as dull and boring as you may have thought.
A grease conspiracy? Really? Do you know how dumb that sounds? Ih8mud is an extension of Toyota dealerships and Corporate Toyota? Yeah, because Toyota is so interested in what people are doing with their 40 year old Landcruisers? Because that's where all the money is, right?
A grease conspiracy? Really? Do you know how dumb that sounds? Ih8mud is an extension of Toyota dealerships and Corporate Toyota? Yeah, because Toyota is so interested in what people are doing with their 40 year old Landcruisers? Because that's where all the money is, right?
tranny Frank
Banned
Grease is not interesting,
This is true Brain Grease in not a real entertaining subject, It was only after the Toyota Dealership told me that this was "Private"
So I decided to research as to why ?
It is just grease, stupid boring grease, but come to find out all sorts of interesting stuff,
So Brain, You want me to prove that IH8mud is a extension of the Toyota dealerships and corporate Toyota,
Really ?
I sure can, we can start with the rep from Toyota information Services that stated initial fill was a "Moly based grease"
Which sounds okay to the untrained ear but
Moly is not a base of grease,,,
So Yep super easy to prove the BS on MUD it is deep, real deep,
So start with that, Toyota information services states Moly based grease,
and this is not for 40 year old rigs, 97 model year production shy of 15 years old,
So it is this non interesting, mondaine aspect of auto repair that has been overlooked, and a lot of effort put forth by Toyota propagandists on Mud, Pirate, Yota tech,
To propagate the mis information, What I am doing is a drop in the bucket,
in comparison,
Frank
This is true Brain Grease in not a real entertaining subject, It was only after the Toyota Dealership told me that this was "Private"
So I decided to research as to why ?
It is just grease, stupid boring grease, but come to find out all sorts of interesting stuff,
So Brain, You want me to prove that IH8mud is a extension of the Toyota dealerships and corporate Toyota,
Really ?
I sure can, we can start with the rep from Toyota information Services that stated initial fill was a "Moly based grease"
Which sounds okay to the untrained ear but
Moly is not a base of grease,,,
So Yep super easy to prove the BS on MUD it is deep, real deep,
So start with that, Toyota information services states Moly based grease,
and this is not for 40 year old rigs, 97 model year production shy of 15 years old,
So it is this non interesting, mondaine aspect of auto repair that has been overlooked, and a lot of effort put forth by Toyota propagandists on Mud, Pirate, Yota tech,
To propagate the mis information, What I am doing is a drop in the bucket,
in comparison,
Frank
tranny Frank
Banned
Personal attacks
Rixxer,
please refrain from personal attacks, and slanderous statements,
Now I do say that your "Brainwashed" by Toyota sales, but that is how I see it,
IT is a harsh term but accurate, This is required to get you thinking for yourself,
Now some where in the rules, I would imagine that there is something to the effect that Slanderous statements , personal attacks are not allowed,
So rather than attack me, refute some of the obvious facts that I am presenting and do not bring this down to personal attacks,
You have been duped by Toyota sales Rixxer, Brainwashed, this is what your going to have to deal with, and attacking me personally is not the answer,
Reading researching and studying the situation is
Frank
Rixxer,
please refrain from personal attacks, and slanderous statements,
Now I do say that your "Brainwashed" by Toyota sales, but that is how I see it,
IT is a harsh term but accurate, This is required to get you thinking for yourself,
Now some where in the rules, I would imagine that there is something to the effect that Slanderous statements , personal attacks are not allowed,
So rather than attack me, refute some of the obvious facts that I am presenting and do not bring this down to personal attacks,
You have been duped by Toyota sales Rixxer, Brainwashed, this is what your going to have to deal with, and attacking me personally is not the answer,
Reading researching and studying the situation is
Frank
tranny Frank
Banned
tranny Frank
Banned
#1or #0
No Rixxer What you showed me appeared to be #1 grade grease,
Not only to me but others on the4x4network, So did not ignore it at all,
Only confirmed my diagnosis of you being brainwashed, posting pictures of #1 grade in the knuckle and saying look My Toyota Sales book is right see ,,
No this is clear, plain as day,,,
So your information was not ignored Rixxer,
I mean it looked like #1 the instant I seen it, but waited to other "Master of the obvious" stated, hey that looks like #1 grade,,,
And yes keep in mind your fixing that axle you posted for What ??
Wild quess folks, axle seal failure,,
It was not ignored, studied carefully and proof off your indoctrination and poor brainwashed state,
Its really very sad Rixxer,,,
No Rixxer What you showed me appeared to be #1 grade grease,
Not only to me but others on the4x4network, So did not ignore it at all,
Only confirmed my diagnosis of you being brainwashed, posting pictures of #1 grade in the knuckle and saying look My Toyota Sales book is right see ,,
No this is clear, plain as day,,,
So your information was not ignored Rixxer,
I mean it looked like #1 the instant I seen it, but waited to other "Master of the obvious" stated, hey that looks like #1 grade,,,
And yes keep in mind your fixing that axle you posted for What ??
Wild quess folks, axle seal failure,,
It was not ignored, studied carefully and proof off your indoctrination and poor brainwashed state,
Its really very sad Rixxer,,,
AddictedOffroad
New member
Last edited:
ChildrenOfBodom
Moderator
I want my wasted minutes of life back, this thread is pointless
Last edited:
Rix
New member
Again, you're ignoring it and trying to say it's something it's not.
Again, you have NEVER SEEN what came from the factory. ou have only seen old, leaking examples.
AGAIN, you IGNORE the cross comtamination. YOU POST PICTURES OF A VERY OBVIOUSLY CROSS CONTAMINATED AXLE, THEN SAY THAT'S NOT WHAT IT IS..
you're just not real smart, frank.
tranny Frank
Banned
What is the issue
Okay Maritimer the issue is
Toyota Sales dept recommends a grease that is incompatible with factory fill,
causes leaks, this incompatible grease,
Rix is a Sales trained Tech that assumes this semi fluid grease in the knuckle from production is axle seal failure,
And you want pictures,,,
Ok heres a rough draft for the waring sticker for the goop
Let me look for more pictures to keep you entertained,
Okay Maritimer the issue is
Toyota Sales dept recommends a grease that is incompatible with factory fill,
causes leaks, this incompatible grease,
Rix is a Sales trained Tech that assumes this semi fluid grease in the knuckle from production is axle seal failure,
And you want pictures,,,
Ok heres a rough draft for the waring sticker for the goop
Let me look for more pictures to keep you entertained,
Rix
New member
That looks like something you should get tattooed on your lower back, frank.Okay Maritimer the issue is
Toyota Sales dept recommends a grease that is incompatible with factory fill,
no it doesn't. sales doesn't recommend anything.
causes leaks, this incompatible grease,
wrong
Rix is a Sales trained Tech that assumes this semi fluid grease in the knuckle from production is axle seal failure,
wrong again. I have NO training from sales. Training doesn't even enter into this. I HAVE seen what was put there from the factory. It is NOT the crap you're trying to sell. THAT makes you a LIAR.
And you want pictures,,,
Ok heres a rough draft for the waring sticker for the goop
Let me look for more pictures to keep you entertained,
tranny Frank
Banned
Grease is not interesting,
Sure Sure Rixxer,
So what do you think, I gave you the run down on that, the whole butterfly deal, MKUltra,
Now contaminated gear oil, no doubt about that, caused by what a #2 grease as per your Toyota indoctrination or
#1 or thinner grease,,,
Hey why dont you show the picture of that axle you repaired for seal failure,
Not the inside shot but the outside shot off the ball,,,
Sure Sure Rixxer,
So what do you think, I gave you the run down on that, the whole butterfly deal, MKUltra,
Now contaminated gear oil, no doubt about that, caused by what a #2 grease as per your Toyota indoctrination or
#1 or thinner grease,,,
Hey why dont you show the picture of that axle you repaired for seal failure,
Not the inside shot but the outside shot off the ball,,,
Rix
New member
:violin:
tranny Frank
Banned
The Art of propaganda,
another picture
Now in case your still not sure what the issue is Toyota Sales specs a incompatible grease for the Solid steering axle,,
Prompted me to market a product, the same grade of lube for the enclosed axle,
Frank,.
another picture
Now in case your still not sure what the issue is Toyota Sales specs a incompatible grease for the Solid steering axle,,
Prompted me to market a product, the same grade of lube for the enclosed axle,
Frank,.
tranny Frank
Banned
Masters of the obvious,
Okay,
I sent CJ3flyer some info on this a while back, has a good understanding of the situation and that is very simple,
Factory build goes for years, open it up and your into every couple of years ,,
While I do not know CJ3 flyer from Adam I figer by his user name , into Jeeps and airplanes, just a guess thou,
Anyway there are a few "Masters of the Obvious" I have found , a very small %
Here is a excellent post From "Red",,, a Ol Jeeper guy,,
Red
Posted: Mar 27 2011, 12:02 AM
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Posts: 21
Member No.: 1,014
Joined: 20-January 11
This subject has reached the level of inflamed and passionate opinion on other sites. Views vary according to, well, they're all over the place. But here's what I've done with mine:
I have an M38A1. I post here on this site because it has a uniquely sensible approach to old jeeps and because so many of the systems on A1s and 3Bs are similar. My jeep has a dana 25 front end with Bendix axle shafts. The military manual states to use #0 grease in the steering knuckle. This is essentially 2 levels lower viscosity than the typical #2 we all use for u-joints, steering, etc. Many if not most owners also use the #2 in the knuckle and I figure that should work fine if lube intervals are maintained, as the greases these days are uniformly superior to anything the manual writers had available in '54 (DOD of my A1).
But I prefer the #0 for several reasons. First it's what the manual calls for. Second, it does not create what I think is called a "tunnel effect", where the #2 grease gets thrown against the wall of the knuckle and stays there and eventually deprives the axle shaft of grease. The #0 being less viscuous is thrown around the knuckle when the shaft turns (either in 4x4 mode or all the time if you are running a rig without lock out hubs) but returns to the axle shaft and keeps it largely immersed in the grease at all times (therefore, no tunnel effect). By the way, I observed this "tunnel effect" in my A1 when I did the initial clean up and greasing not long after bringing it home. Not only was the grease not doing the axle shaft any good, there was no way it could have been lubing the top kingpin bearing either. Which brings me to the third reason I use the #0: when the axle shaft turns it throws the #0 all over the knuckle and serves to grease the top kingpin bearing as well. This won't happen with #2 grease- it's just too thick to move that way and it's not supposed to be thrown off like that anyhow- it's supposed to stick.
Now many use the 140 weight and I can't say how that works. There is nothing better than immersion in oil for lubrication and if you can keep it from going past the seals, that would be the way to go. My concern there would be the loss of oil and questionable lubing of the top kingpin bearing. Also, there's the chance it could migrate towards the differential, though I can't say if that's a problem.
I also consider the intent of the designers of the dana axles. The fill plug is large enough for a grease gun to fit in to it. It's at mid height on the knuckle, meaning that is the correct fill level. This alone indicates to me that the original intent was to have a more fluid grease in the knuckle than #2 grease, for #2 doesnt settle as an oil or #0 does. Another design characteristic of the dana knuckles, which I believe is underappreciated, is that they are supposed to allow a certain amount of grease past the knuckle seals. If the grease is of a viscosity that will properly lube the bendix joint and the top kingpin bearing, then it will be lost past the seal to a certain point. It might be nice to have a clean axle housing, but it might also mean that the grease is so thick that it isn't doing its job inside the knuckle.
I use what's called "cornhead grease" It's a John Deere grease they use in combine type gearboxes ( called corn heads). it's a thixotropic grease meaning it won't leak out and adheres to moving parts, yet returns to level (as would an oil) when at rest. So far I haven't had any problems. The kingpin bearings are all new, and I keep a eye on them as well. Sounds odd, I know, but I did not feel that #2 grease was doing the proper job in the knuckle, so I went looking for the grease the manual called for. #0 isn't easy to find in small quantities (I had one outfit say I had to buy it in 5 gal buckets minimum, another place said minimum was a pallet!).
One other thing; I originally found out about this grease while researching for something to put in to a Ross steering box I thought was leaking. Turns out the leak was not from the Ross, but the research turned up the interesting fact that cornhead grease is used by old car guys in leaking steering boxes because it has the proper qualities of a 90 wt in a steering box and yet will not leak out. We are fortunate to have a pretty big aftermarket industry supplying repro and rebuilt parts and systems for jeeps. But some of these old car and truck guys don't have that for obscure and small population vehicles and with no aftermarket available, they make do with what they have. In the case of steering boxes, if one leaks, they often just have to keep it going and they overcome the problem with ideas such as using the #0 grease.
I can't say for sure what happened at IH8Mud but Frank has put a great deal time and effort into Toyota (and other) solid front axles of the Birfield design. The aftermarket has limited knowledge and access to the magic, mystery grease type the factory uses (a long strand lighter than #2 grease).
Why is it a big deal? Because the 'original build' seems to run 15years, 100k-150k just fine (or some REALLY long time). After that all the Birfield guys have to redo the grease every couple of years and far less miles. He's worked/working to make people aware of how important and how much money they can save with the correct grease type (and how to get it).
Frank's company*, Cruiser Outfitters, does a lot of work with the older Toyo axles in the LC's, 1st gen 4Runners and some SAS's.
Search his username, it's quite an education in grease
:cheers:
* I am unclear if he works/worked there, owns Cruiser Outfitters or what... "Frank's company" may have been a misleading way to make the point.
Okay,
I sent CJ3flyer some info on this a while back, has a good understanding of the situation and that is very simple,
Factory build goes for years, open it up and your into every couple of years ,,
While I do not know CJ3 flyer from Adam I figer by his user name , into Jeeps and airplanes, just a guess thou,
Anyway there are a few "Masters of the Obvious" I have found , a very small %
Here is a excellent post From "Red",,, a Ol Jeeper guy,,
Red
Posted: Mar 27 2011, 12:02 AM
Report Post
Member
Group: Members
Posts: 21
Member No.: 1,014
Joined: 20-January 11
This subject has reached the level of inflamed and passionate opinion on other sites. Views vary according to, well, they're all over the place. But here's what I've done with mine:
I have an M38A1. I post here on this site because it has a uniquely sensible approach to old jeeps and because so many of the systems on A1s and 3Bs are similar. My jeep has a dana 25 front end with Bendix axle shafts. The military manual states to use #0 grease in the steering knuckle. This is essentially 2 levels lower viscosity than the typical #2 we all use for u-joints, steering, etc. Many if not most owners also use the #2 in the knuckle and I figure that should work fine if lube intervals are maintained, as the greases these days are uniformly superior to anything the manual writers had available in '54 (DOD of my A1).
But I prefer the #0 for several reasons. First it's what the manual calls for. Second, it does not create what I think is called a "tunnel effect", where the #2 grease gets thrown against the wall of the knuckle and stays there and eventually deprives the axle shaft of grease. The #0 being less viscuous is thrown around the knuckle when the shaft turns (either in 4x4 mode or all the time if you are running a rig without lock out hubs) but returns to the axle shaft and keeps it largely immersed in the grease at all times (therefore, no tunnel effect). By the way, I observed this "tunnel effect" in my A1 when I did the initial clean up and greasing not long after bringing it home. Not only was the grease not doing the axle shaft any good, there was no way it could have been lubing the top kingpin bearing either. Which brings me to the third reason I use the #0: when the axle shaft turns it throws the #0 all over the knuckle and serves to grease the top kingpin bearing as well. This won't happen with #2 grease- it's just too thick to move that way and it's not supposed to be thrown off like that anyhow- it's supposed to stick.
Now many use the 140 weight and I can't say how that works. There is nothing better than immersion in oil for lubrication and if you can keep it from going past the seals, that would be the way to go. My concern there would be the loss of oil and questionable lubing of the top kingpin bearing. Also, there's the chance it could migrate towards the differential, though I can't say if that's a problem.
I also consider the intent of the designers of the dana axles. The fill plug is large enough for a grease gun to fit in to it. It's at mid height on the knuckle, meaning that is the correct fill level. This alone indicates to me that the original intent was to have a more fluid grease in the knuckle than #2 grease, for #2 doesnt settle as an oil or #0 does. Another design characteristic of the dana knuckles, which I believe is underappreciated, is that they are supposed to allow a certain amount of grease past the knuckle seals. If the grease is of a viscosity that will properly lube the bendix joint and the top kingpin bearing, then it will be lost past the seal to a certain point. It might be nice to have a clean axle housing, but it might also mean that the grease is so thick that it isn't doing its job inside the knuckle.
I use what's called "cornhead grease" It's a John Deere grease they use in combine type gearboxes ( called corn heads). it's a thixotropic grease meaning it won't leak out and adheres to moving parts, yet returns to level (as would an oil) when at rest. So far I haven't had any problems. The kingpin bearings are all new, and I keep a eye on them as well. Sounds odd, I know, but I did not feel that #2 grease was doing the proper job in the knuckle, so I went looking for the grease the manual called for. #0 isn't easy to find in small quantities (I had one outfit say I had to buy it in 5 gal buckets minimum, another place said minimum was a pallet!).
One other thing; I originally found out about this grease while researching for something to put in to a Ross steering box I thought was leaking. Turns out the leak was not from the Ross, but the research turned up the interesting fact that cornhead grease is used by old car guys in leaking steering boxes because it has the proper qualities of a 90 wt in a steering box and yet will not leak out. We are fortunate to have a pretty big aftermarket industry supplying repro and rebuilt parts and systems for jeeps. But some of these old car and truck guys don't have that for obscure and small population vehicles and with no aftermarket available, they make do with what they have. In the case of steering boxes, if one leaks, they often just have to keep it going and they overcome the problem with ideas such as using the #0 grease.
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