The "Pile" build.

That would be great!
BTW, do you need a straight axle housing for your swap? I have an extra.

thanks for the offer but i'm actually sitting on 3 sets (4 if i decide to part out my '88) of axles that i couldn't use cuz my runner is a driver's side drop. i'm running front and rear rock assault axles on it. i got 2 '85 fronts (1 already rebuilt and ready to roll) with matching ifs rear axles and a set of fj60 axles.

when do you think you'll be ready to wheel your rig?

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Wow, nice collection. I'm envious of the Rock Assaults! I'm working rather slowly on it, my hours at work where cut back a few months ago (Gov contract) and with summer here, I have been spending like crazy finishing the hotrod. I'm trying to make a deal right now on another 5.29 8" 3rd with a locker for the rear, I don't want to run the welded one I have.
 
Wow, nice collection. I'm envious of the Rock Assaults! I'm working rather slowly on it, my hours at work where cut back a few months ago (Gov contract) and with summer here, I have been spending like crazy finishing the hotrod. I'm trying to make a deal right now on another 5.29 8" 3rd with a locker for the rear, I don't want to run the welded one I have.

thanks! my original plan was to run Ruff Stuff or Diamond housings but i ended up swapping a spare dual case setup i had with a buddy who wrecked his taco before he had a chance to use them and ended up building an '85.
 
I really want to do a duel case set up. I missed out on a CL deal for an R151 and duel cases a few weeks back, now I just cannot afford it. I need to upgrade the front axles and get a longer front driveline.
 
I really want to do a duel case set up. I missed out on a CL deal for an R151 and duel cases a few weeks back, now I just cannot afford it. I need to upgrade the front axles and get a longer front driveline.

i'm sure you'll run into another deal. there's someone selling a setup every couple of weeks but they go so quickly! i'm still debating which way i wanna got with mine. my plan is to either order a taco box and adapters from marlin or go with "lefty" from inchworm and run dual minis. marlins setups are bulletproof but i'm not sure how the stock chain driven case will hold up to a 4.7 gear driven case and i don't know anyone whose running it on their 3.4 with an auto so i'm having a hell of a time finding any feedback on how well theirs is holding up. and if i'm gonna dump $2000 into the setup i wanna make sure i do my research first!
 
A couple questions. I'm gathering parts to tear into the rear end housing and cannot seem to find out which housing I have. Full floating or not? Seems it makes a difference in the seals, but I cannot find the answer on how to identify the axle. Also, should I replace the axle bearings while I'm in there? I plan to replace the leaking seals, drums, shoes, spring hardware, and 3rd member in the next week or two.
What are you guys with larger tires running for a front driveshaft? I need a longer one and don't wish to run a spacer as it will make the shaft angle even worse, I cannot afford a HP diff right now. Is the TG extended spline shaft any good for the $$?
 
if you're still running the stock axle then what you have is a semi floater. meaning your axle shafts are only splined on the inner side and the wheel mounting flange on the outer. full floaters are splined on both ends.
i'd definitely change all the guts while it's torn apart. as fas as the trail gear drive line kits go, i haven't heard anything bad about them. i run marlins kit on my '88 with no problems. prior to that i ran the home made square drive shaft that actually took a beating and survived numerous trips to elbe and tahuya without ever breaking. only problem with those is that they cant be balanced. but for a trail rig it didn't really matter. i was actually able to get up to about 35 mph before feeling any vibration. if you're looking into a new replacement, check out high angle or daves offroad. i've seen their shafts get run through the ringer with zero failures that i know of. that's the route i'm going once my dual cases are in.
 
oh by the way, if you do decide to change out the bearings and have a press handy, i have exactly what you need to bet the bearings off. you're welcome to use it.
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oh by the way, if you do decide to change out the bearings and have a press handy, i have exactly what you need to bet the bearings off. you're welcome to use it.
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Cool, thanks for the offer! Looks like a nice set up. I have a boat race next weekend in Tri-Cities, then again the week after for Seafair. After that, I get a break for a three weeks then on to Idaho and San Diego for races. I hope to get some stuff done in between, but won't have much shop time for my own stuff for a while. I need to get the rear end finished soon though, right now it's not very usable with 37's, a tired 22RE, and stock 4.10's.
 
wow! sounds like you got alot on your plate! when you do find the time to get it done, let me know. i can meet up with you somewhere if you want to use it. i actually have two of them so if you want to take one to leave in your shop for whenever you get around to doing the bearings it's fine by me. no rush to return it. just let me know.
 
Thanks slowpoke! I'll PM you in a couple weeks.
One future update will be installing a piece of smoked plexi glass in place of my sunroof. I removed it today to clean out the channel as I was doing the same maintenance on my daily driver, and found the glass frame completely rusted through all around. It's a huge mess, but the channel and drains appear to be fine. Someone in the past had used silicone around it instead of just cleaning out the drains to fix a leak, it must have been enough to trap moisture in there. I think we have some 3/4" thick plexi at the shop, I'll leave the gasket that's on the truck and cut the glass to fit very tight and bolt it down. It should be enough to let some light in, but not cook me out of the cab in the sun.
 
Not much to update but have been collecting parts. The interior is almost ready to put back together, just need to weld my seat mounts on the passenger side and clean the old carpet. I picked up a used V6 diff from a buddy, ARB and 5.29's, but it's been fairly well abused. There are teeth marks on the ARB from an old broken pinion gear and the current gear set in it is toast, the pinion looks odd to me. It's got huge Pitts in the gear faces, but there is no rust or debris in there? Anyway, guess I'll be reading on how to test the ARB and new gear install.

On a side note, is there a gear debate thread? I'm curious of your guys experience with gear failures. Wondering if I should go to a 4.88 instead of 5.29?
 
Just decided to put the welded diff in for now so it's mobile. I'll try to get the diff and rear housing rebuilt next month.

Here is what I'm dealing with though. Damage to the ARB looks superficial, but that pinion gear is toast! Does that routing look right for the air line?



 
if you can, run the air line up over the top side of the ring gear. once it's installed in the axle, you'll have more clearance above the ring gear than between the ring gear and the inside face of the axle housing. or you could give it to me and i'll deal with the headache for you!:D
 
if you can, run the air line up over the top side of the ring gear. once it's installed in the axle, you'll have more clearance above the ring gear than between the ring gear and the inside face of the axle housing. or you could give it to me and i'll deal with the headache for you!:D

Honestly, I'd be happy with a good Detroit Locker in a V6 diff. I'd be willing to figure out a trade of some kind. I don't have the skill to set these diffs up and it kills me to pay big $$ to have it done.

The line is too short to run it above the ring gear, but I guess that can be replaced?
 
Honestly, I'd be happy with a good Detroit Locker in a V6 diff. I'd be willing to figure out a trade of some kind. I don't have the skill to set these diffs up and it kills me to pay big $$ to have it done.

The line is too short to run it above the ring gear, but I guess that can be replaced?

Yes you can replace the air line. I know there's a couple of 4x4 shops local to you that carry ARB and can supply you with the line.
I'm positive you'll have no problem swapping that air locker for a Detroit if that's what you're planning. I'm running detroits right now on mine only because I already had them and didn't have an on board air setup. Might go ARB later on my front axle after I get air but I like my detroits and to be honest, until I have a problem with one of them, I'll probably keep it that way. They're bulletproof! Not saying that the air locker isn't. It's just the Detroit is kinda "plug and play", no air needed, no lines to run, etc.
 
Honestly, I'd be happy with a good Detroit Locker in a V6 diff. I'd be willing to figure out a trade of some kind. I don't have the skill to set these diffs up and it kills me to pay big $$ to have it done.

The line is too short to run it above the ring gear, but I guess that can be replaced?

I'm running a Spartan in a 4cyl diff and have for ... three years now? I'm not hardcore, but I flog it pretty good and it's held up fine. Doesn't give me any trouble at all on the street, once I learned it's moods. Feather the clutch in parking garages and parking lots, don't change throttle abruptly in high speed corners, automatic lockers are fine in these trucks.
 
I'm running a Spartan in a 4cyl diff and have for ... three years now? I'm not hardcore, but I flog it pretty good and it's held up fine. Doesn't give me any trouble at all on the street, once I learned it's moods. Feather the clutch in parking garages and parking lots, don't change throttle abruptly in high speed corners, automatic lockers are fine in these trucks.

+1 on the above.

I have a Yukon Grizzly in my daily driver, and as long as you don't gun it while turning you won't even know it's there.

Off roading - oh baby!! Works great, and I don't beat her to death, but I'm not easy on it either.

:hail:
 
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That's why I'm thinking about trying to trade it. A good locker will serve my needs just fine. I'll buy a new ring, pinion, and crush sleeve to go with it and let the next guy set it up.
 
Installed 1.5" wheel spacers today. I was hoping to avoid using them, but needed the clearance from the tie rods.
 

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