"The Sequel"

[Lamer]

Interesting project you got yourself. What do you plan to do with the paint?
I have some clear coat issues myself I'm now noticing.
Just need to know what Seafoam does for the gas tank.
Thanks

not sure on the paint honestly, maybe go with a black spray on bedliner for the hood, but my fenders clear coat is chipping away so I might get them repainted/cleared at a local shop.

Seafoam is magical, cleans the fuel system of deposits. It also cleans carbon from your combustion chamber and allow your vehicle to run better. I plan on running it in my oil next week for a couple days then get get an oil changee. eventually will put some into the vacuum lines.

 

[marcus clarkus]

Made my way to a couple shops around town today to get quotes on the work below: (I have all the parts, they were quoting the labor only)

replace Upper and lower ball joints on driver and passenger sides
Pass CV axle
both tie rod ends
assemble new front coils and struts
install new front coils and struts
install rear coils and struts

Guess what the lowest quote was..........$1,972.87!!!!!!!!! thats bonkers.

so looks like I will find a shop to assemble the front struts for me, and do the rest of the work myself.

fortunately two of the shops inspected my control arm bushings and both shops said they are ok and do not need replacing. that helps but down on the man hours big time. plus, after replacing nearly everything else, if there is anything funky about my front end, I will know where to start looking.

Yes now you can use the money you saved by doing the work yourself to buy some tools!!!!

I HIGHLY suggest you get a torque wrench if you don't already have one. There are some components on your 4Runner that you can just tighten up snug and call it a day, but suspension components don't fall into that category. Torquing those LBJs to the correct spec is could be the difference between them lasting 100,000+ miles or failing catastrophically (wheel falls off while driving), as is what has happened to at least one owner on this forum. Don't let that scare you from doing the work yourself -- just double check everything, torque it properly, GET AN ALIGNMENT IMMEDIATELY AFTERWARDS, and recheck torques after about 500 miles. Good luck!

Also, download the factory service manual (FSM) if you haven't already. Here's a snippet on how the struts should be assembled. I highly recommend you print the image out and give it to the shop, then be sure to check their work (the shop I brought it to still got it wrong).

 

[Lamer]

Yes now you can use the money you saved by doing the work yourself to buy some tools!!!!

I HIGHLY suggest you get a torque wrench if you don't already have one...

Also, download the factory service manual (FSM)...

YES! I'm all for new tools.

I already have a Craftsman 20-150 ft-lb torque wrench (Probably going to buy some metric ratcheting wrenches next)

I have a Haynes repair manual already, but I'm interested in the factory service manual (Does it specify the tool sizes i.e. sockets/wrenches required for each job?) that's really the most annoying thing to research. Haynes manual specifies the torque but no socket/wrench sizes...

Is there one online for download?

 

[marcus clarkus]

YES! I'm all for new tools.

I already have a Craftsman 20-150 ft-lb torque wrench (Probably going to buy some metric ratcheting wrenches next)

I have a Haynes repair manual already, but I'm interested in the factory service manual (Does it specify the tool sizes i.e. sockets/wrenches required for each job?) that's really the most annoying thing to research. Haynes manual specifies the torque but no socket/wrench sizes...

Is there one online for download?

Nope, but if you have 12mm, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24 that will cover 99% of the sizes you need. I can't remember if 21mm is in the category too, or if I just always grab for it and realize I need a 22mm...

Search google for the 1996 FSM and I bet you'll find it. Another option is to pay to join the Toyota TIS website, download the FSM, then cancel you subscription (about $15). The only downside to that is that you have to individually download hundreds of PDF files. If you want the 1999 or 2000 FSM then message me and I might be able to help you with that.

Another tip - watch videos and read posts for tips on how to remove you old rear shocks and tighten the new bilsteins in place. With the right tools/strategy, it's a hundred times faster and easier.

edit - also, not sure how I missed your picture if the already assembled struts. If they did them wrong you could take them back to the shop, or go to one of the big Auto Parts stores to rent a spring compressor. It shouldn't be that hard/dangerous to fix by yourself because it assembled so you only have to compress it to allow you to rotate things in place.

 

[Lamer]

Nope, but if you have 12mm, 14, 17, 19, 22, 24 that will cover 99% of the sizes you need. I can't remember if 21mm is in the category too, or if I just always grab for it and realize I need a 22mm...

Search google for the 1996 FSM and I bet you'll find it. Another option is to pay to join the Toyota TIS website, download the FSM, then cancel you subscription (about $15). The only downside to that is that you have to individually download hundreds of PDF files. If you want the 1999 or 2000 FSM then message me and I might be able to help you with that.

Another tip - watch videos and read posts for tips on how to remove you old rear shocks and tighten the new bilsteins in place. With the right tools/strategy, it's a hundred times faster and easier.

edit - also, not sure how I missed your picture if the already assembled struts. If they did them wrong you could take them back to the shop, or go to one of the big Auto Parts stores to rent a spring compressor. It shouldn't be that hard/dangerous to fix by yourself because it assembled so you only have to compress it to allow you to rotate things in place.

ya the only size i'm missing is the 24mm. going to pick that up today. along with the rental ball joint press kit. and maybe a second kit to give me more sizes of sockets to press the UBJ back in with.

i plan to watch all the videos i saved once more today. to make sure I have it all understood. Thanks!

 

[Lamer]

the failday

well today could have gone better.

in an attempt to accomplish everything front end related I was only able to complete the lower ball joints and the new front strut install.

old LBJ was removed with no issue, new LBJ went in great. removing the old upper ball joint went great, but it was then that I struggled. pressing in the new upper ball joint just wasn't gonna happen. I spent 3.5 hrs on it!!! I called to confirm I had the right part #'s, and they were correct. no matter what I tried it would not press in. finally I had enough. proceeded to re-install the old one (which pressed in with no issue) and installed the new front strut assembly. I then moved to the other side and did the same. didn't even touch the upper ball joint though.

Today the 4runner defeated me. sadly, I just do not have the time nor the patience to try it again. I will be calling shops tomorrow to see what they will quote for the upper ball joints, and maybe the steering rack bushings...maybe.

ill tackle the rear end later, unless the shop quotes is cheap.

sad day.

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

I was able to press in the UBJ with a harbor freight 3 jaw puller on one side (using adapter cups from the Amazon Ball joint service kit) and the other side with a $50 ball joint service kit I got off Amazon. Probably takes 30 minutes or less (assuming everything is off and ready to go).

Put the UBJ in the freezer for an hour beforehand, I also used a thin layer of anti seize to help lube it up. That helped a lot.

Here’s a little write up I did with the links to the tools http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/247663-did-my-ubj-here-few-helpful-notes.html


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Lamer]

ya maybe that 3 jaw puller was the way to go for installing the new one.

I may still try that depending on what the shops quote me for the work. not sure yet.

thanks for the advise, I like the simplicity of it

 

[Lamer]

installed my new TYC headlight assemblies. man are they sharp!

also, I was parusing around in my engine bay and found a couple odd things, can anyone tell me what these are for? and if I am missing anything?
circled in blue

and then this:

 

[JohnOfTheJungle]

To be clear - with the 3 jaw puller you do still need to use a few of the adapters from the Ball Joint Service/puller kit. You might be able to rent a kit from an auto parts store that has the adapters that would work.

I do like using the 3 jaw puller though, it's simple, strong, super adaptable, and looks like futuristic robot claw, so it checks all the boxes.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I used to have those same wheels!

Good luck with the rebuild. Subscribed.

 

[TrexRunnerGirl]

I like those new headlights. from whence did you obtain them?

 

[Lamer]

I used to have those same wheels!

Good luck with the rebuild. Subscribed.

thanks! previous owner put them on. can you tell me what kind of wheels they are? I cant seem to find anything written on them besides the main brand name....

I like those new headlights. from whence did you obtain them?

I got em here! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R1G7T8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it says "these will not fit your 1996 4runner..." but they fit fine.

there was a little squeeze with the small trim piece screw under the headlight. but it fits, and looks SO much better. just makes the rest of the car look like dirt haha

 

[Lamer]

managed to get the upper ball joints installed yesterday. the press/cup kit really makes a difference. used a portable hydraulic press that made it with no issue. Was able to get one new rack bushing in, but didnt have time to remove the diff drop spacers in order to fully remove the long horizontal bolt.

next week I plan to finish the rack bushings, tie rod end links (maybe, they are rusted badly) and the rear suspension. then finally my new suspension will be completed. I can already feel the front end is far better that before.

anyone know where I can find the Tie-Rod end link lock nuts???

 

[Lamer]

Steering Rack Bushings done. now a brake issue!?!

Installed my Energy Suspension steering rack bushings this morning. much easier than expected. I did have to remove the driver's side diff drop spacer to get the large bolt out. and in doing so I watched how much the CV axle actually moved. the spacer gives between 0.5" - 0.75" of drop to the axle itself.

BRAKES: whenever I am cruising along, and press the brakes for the first time, I hear something. its a squeak/squish sound like someone squeezing a wooden handle too tightly while wearing a leather glove. Ill try to record the sound and get it on here.

it only happens the fist time I press the brakes, after I have accelerated. (I accelerate from a stop, press the brakes, hear the sound, let off brakes, and press brakes again, I do not hear it. I hear it every time after I accelerate.)

anyone have any ideas?

 

[repo]

installed my new TYC headlight assemblies. man are they sharp!

also, I was parusing around in my engine bay and found a couple odd things, can anyone tell me what these are for? and if I am missing anything?
circled in blue

and then this:

One is for the washer fluid sprayer hose. The other is a clamp for that wire harness underneath, there's another missing further down the intake hose. You can use zip ties. And there should be a cap on the hose fitting.

 

[Lamer]

One is for the washer fluid sprayer hose. The other is a clamp for that wire harness underneath, there's another missing further down the intake hose. You can use zip ties. And there should be a cap on the hose fitting.

dude, thanks. very helpful with the pics too.

 

[calimobber]

And If you didn't know. The cap missing is off your A/C line. I can't remember but I think its the Low pressure side. you can follow the line and look for the other cap, I think its by the radiator. I believe it has a H-for high and L- for low pressure.

 

[Lamer]

Rear Suspension

finally installed my rear OME 890 springs and B-5100 struts.

the old stuff was completely gone. struts were rusting away, and wouldn't extend on their own and the top bushing assembly was done incorrectly by the previous owner. The springs, when compressed had about 1/2" gap between each ring.

CUt the old stuff out, saved a bunch of time. but man it was a pain getting the lower strut mounts to line up. had to disconnect the upper control arms and roll the axle back, then use a c clamp to press them on. my goodness that was a pain.

Can already feel the back end is much tighter. very happy. but I can definitely tell that something is clinking in the front end. every speed bump in my parking garage shifts something around. not sure what, maybe wheel bearing? (just installed new UBJ and LBJ and rack bushings.) I have new tie rod end links and brake lines which need to be installed. I'm thinking go to alignment/brake shop and have them check it out, along with install everything.

much happier with the stance, will have to get some 1/4" or 1/2" spacers after it settles. im still a little low on the drivers side.

 

[alexjmoon]

looking good, cant believe you bought it with 250k! thats awesome