The skid plate thread

No and no. Folks on here have been wheeling for years with aftermarket skids. No issues that I'm aware of.

:wink2:

My front RCI has four large holes along the top which would allow for air flow. I think Josh has changed the design since then though.
 
I had this exact problem (nuts breaking free of the tack weld). Was able to get a small wrench inside the frame to hold the nuts in place to remove the bolts. It takes a lot of patience. To replace your skid plate, just reverse the procedure. We used a small bit of paper inside the wrench to get the nut to sit tight until the bolt was started through.



Remember... patience.



If they are tack welded, that's a concern. I would look to welding them down a little better before install. Good feedback for RCI too.
 
If they are tack welded, that's a concern. I would look to welding them down a little better before install. Good feedback for RCI too.

The biggest problem is getting to the nut in the first place... the hole to get to the nut is tiny. If you have giant man hands there could be an issue. We were just barley able to get the wrench in there and around the nut. And... you're going in blind, because you can't see in there.

:faint2:
 
The biggest problem is getting to the nut in the first place... the hole to get to the nut is tiny. If you have giant man hands there could be an issue. We were just barley able to get the wrench in there and around the nut. And... you're going in blind, because you can't see in there.

:faint2:

^^this

I have had problems with both tack welds coming loose (thank you dealer service tech) on the front TRD skid. Those nuts are in the boxed in, lower frame support for the radiator. Had to have a fab shop cut out squares, weld in larger nuts (same size and pitch) and weld the squares back in to the frame support.

Sharing from my experience:

1) remove all skids before going in for any type of service. Although I leave the gas tank skid on and sometimes leave the A-arm skids if it's not going to get an alignment or other front suspension service.

2) Also, put bolts back in where they would otherwise be missing i.e the catalytic converter diagonal cross bar and the front, lower radiator supports. They are left hanging when the related area skids are removed as in my case for the RCI Transfer-front/Transmission-rear and the front TRD skid (ask me how I found that one out).

3) Use hand tools both ways (on and off).

4) Add some anti-seize to the bolts too when you put them back in.

5) Finally, knowing how weak the tack-welds are I don't over tighten the bolts either. Usually just enough with a final push on the wrench.

This won't address the nuts that are already broken free but hopefully won't break new ones.
 
^^this

I have had problems with both tack welds coming loose (thank you dealer service tech) on the front TRD skid. Those nuts are in the boxed in, lower frame support for the radiator. Had to have a fab shop cut out squares, weld in larger nuts (same size and pitch) and weld the squares back in to the frame support.

Sharing from my experience:

1) remove all skids before going in for any type of service. Although I leave the gas tank skid on and sometimes leave the A-arm skids if it's not going to get an alignment or other front suspension service.

2) Also, put bolts back in where they would otherwise be missing i.e the catalytic converter diagonal cross bar and the front, lower radiator supports. They are left hanging when the related area skids are removed as in my case for the RCI Transfer-front/Transmission-rear and the front TRD skid (ask me how I found that one out).

3) Use hand tools both ways (on and off).

4) Add some anti-seize to the bolts too when you put them back in.

5) Finally, knowing how weak the tack-welds are I don't over tighten the bolts either. Usually just enough with a final push on the wrench.

This won't address the nuts that are already broken free but hopefully won't break new ones.

Yup.... in my case it was a good smack on a rock that broke the weld. Since I have Schrockworks skids they are smooth with no bolt protection. SO anything I scrape over, can potentially damage the bolt (bend it) and break the welded nut... Although my SW skids are a little older, so they may have changed the design with some better bolt protection. I may dig to see if I can find the picture of my screwed up bolts.
 
I had this exact problem (nuts breaking free of the tack weld). Was able to get a small wrench inside the frame to hold the nuts in place to remove the bolts. It takes a lot of patience. To replace your skid plate, just reverse the procedure. We used a small bit of paper inside the wrench to get the nut to sit tight until the bolt was started through.

Remember... patience.

Definitely possible for some, but impossible for the third row of nuts (the ones closest to the front diff - they are recessed in the skid plate)

I have no idea how to get them off aside from cutting the skid off with a angle grinder.
 
Definitely possible for some, but impossible for the third row of nuts (the ones closest to the front diff - they are recessed in the skid plate)

I have no idea how to get them off aside from cutting the skid off with a angle grinder.

Post up a good photo, I'm sure someone else here has had the same issue and came to a solution.
 
Can anyone post a photo of a Limited with the RCI skid powdercoated in black?

Not a worm's-eye view, but normal viewing angle front view.

I would like to know how this would look on my 2012 Limited before I order. Did a Google image search but all that I could find were TE's...
 
Ordered my RCI front skid plate and filler plate. Wish they had the option of powdercoating the filler plate, guess I'll just rattle-can it.
 
Just curious, but does this also apply to stock OEM skids as well? Just got my 2017 a few months ago, haven't had the chance to crawl underneath it yet with our crappy Canadian winter, so not sure if this issue applies to only aftermarket skid plates, or all skid plates.

Thanks.

Yes, remove the factory skid as well before service. They can cross thread the bolts or lose them. It's best to just remove.
 
Yes, remove the factory skid as well before service. They can cross thread the bolts or lose them. It's best to just remove.

Makes sense, and is kind of what I thought based on previous experience with other Toyotas (ie. sometimes dealer forgot to replace all the bolts holding the under engine splash shield in place etc...). Thanks for confirming.
 
Soooo.... Turns out I didn't read the fine print and the RCI front filler plate does not fit the Limited bumper. Josh caught it and adjusted the order (great guy) but now I'm back to needing a stock front filler off a Limited. Anyone?
 
Arrived today...
2c2ebb40ed82f20527f6262eff45f27d.jpg


I like the enhanced bolt protection....
9112b7387785eeaeaacf5f86176c070c.jpg


...and the sticker looks good on my RTIC along with my XD koozie...
aebb9c05a428d72392ed36bc58b8530b.jpg
 
Did you install your parts? If so, how are they?
See my pic just above your post. Installed and fits perfectly.

I performed an oil and filter change with it on, and you can do it, but next time I think I'll just drop the skid plate. I just use a floor jack at the balance point of the skid plate, remove the bolts, and lower it. Much easier than the factory skid plates on my 3rd gen!

Oh, I did not get a filler plate as it won't fit the LE. Still not sure what to do about that.

EDIT: Found another pic...
 

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