The Turbo Rock Lobster
- Thread starter steezemcqueen
- Start date
steezemcqueen
Moderator
That was the end goal. Just to make everyone super jelly
. But really, Thanks for the props manI could have cut and rewelded the shifter to dogleg it and i probably should have done that since it would have been wayyyyy cleaner to come up straight through the cupholder. I guess i just didn't think about it at the time :lol:
Even though it looks a kinda ghetto, I'm ok with it for now since i still have the use of both cupholders. In 2wd, the shifter sits right between the to cupholders and i can still use both of them. In 4hi, it sits in the rear cupholder.
Eventually i will just get a triple stick setup and move them all to the original location.
My buddy just got his triple stick setup done in his Taco and its super clean!
Here is a picture of his
I've been both lazy and busy so i haven't gotten to the elocker wiring yet. I did come across your thread while researching and i will be using it when i get to work on it.
I haven't seen anyone put a crawler in a auto 4Runner yet without moving the gas tank and the crossmember. It might be possible though. You should just get one and if it doesn't fit, its a good excuse to do a ford tank swap
The crawl box completely changes how you wheel with a manual. Come to Moab and try it out!
JWaldz
Moderator
That's sick! What's the benefit of having triple sticks and how the hell does it work? I honestly don't even know how the crawl box and dual sticks works, as well as operation of it all. All I know it makes you crawl really really slow.. School me!
I recall someone recently doing a crawl box with their auto trans without having to move the gas tank. I can't remember at the moment who it was.
I recall someone recently doing a crawl box with their auto trans without having to move the gas tank. I can't remember at the moment who it was.
Last edited:
That's sick! What's the benefit of having triple sticks and how the hell does it work? I honestly don't even know how the crawl box and dual sticks works, as well as operation of it all. All I know it makes you crawl really really slow.. School me!
I recall someone recently doing a crawl box with their auto trans without having to move the gas tank. I can't remember at the moment who it was.
I think you have the benefit of getting movement from just the front end. don't quote me on this. if you've got a full time locker up front for example, dual shifters let you disengage the front so it's easier to turn or you can use FWD for digs.
JWaldz
Moderator
The only way (I think) to do front digs on any RWD vehicle you have to install a rear driveline disconnect. Trail-Gear makes one (Rear Disconnect | Toyota, Suzuki Samurai, and Jeep Off Road Parts)
I did search the befits of triple sticks. The main reason is it gets all the shifters in one location. Other than that, I don't know if there's a huge factor in changing how it works compared to twin sticks.
steezemcqueen
Moderator
That's sick! What's the benefit of having triple sticks and how the hell does it work? I honestly don't even know how the crawl box and dual sticks works, as well as operation of it all. All I know it makes you crawl really really slow.. School me!
I recall someone recently doing a crawl box with their auto trans without having to move the gas tank. I can't remember at the moment who it was.
Yep its just twin sticks with an additional one for the crawl box. Main benefit of twin sticks is to separate the 2wd/4wd and the high/low shifter. That way you can just shift into low and still be in 2wd. Triple sticks is to just get it all in one spot instead of how i have it now. Thats really the only reason i want them since i can shift the 4.7 case in low and still be in 2wd. I'm gonna do it at some point but i've got other things to get done with higher priority.
JamesDean91
New member
Triple sticks do one thing, keep everything closer together and prevent you from cutting another hole to install a shifter. Does nothing more then a twinsick setup does.
Front digs are not possible on toyota transfercases without a rear drive line disconnect, dana300, 205, atlas, and stack are the only ones capable of a true twin stick setup(full control of your front or rear output when twin stickd) myself when I want more low rang I'm just getting an atlas 4 speed for the money of the adapter 4.7 chromo gears and then a lefty case when the stock case input gets stripped is just about if not more then 4k.
steezemcqueen
Moderator
Thanks man! Its come a long way but its far from finished.
I do like the Toyo's. They are pretty heavy but they balance and ride really nice. Pretty quiet for a MT too. I don't really have a good idea of treadwear since i picked them up used but i'm gonna guess they have about 20k on them and they are about 50% tread left.
When you consider, tread depth and overall size when new, mileage, performance, and the price, they are tough to beat IMHO. Only other ones i would consider would be Duratracs and MTR Kevlars
steezemcqueen
Moderator
T-case Crossmember/Drivetrain lift.
Since installing the dual case setup, I've needed to add some support to the rear case since there is a lot more hanging off the back of the transmission. Also, the stock trans mount is pretty soft rubber and since mine has 214k miles on it, it had seen better days. It also won't hold up to the increased torque from being geared down so low.
I decided to buy the 4xinnovations gear drive tcase mount and build a new crossmember. Since i have a 2 inch body lift, i wanted to lift the trans up that 2 inches to gain more ground clearance.
Here is the 4xinnovations mount.
I went and bought some 3/8's plate and got to work. I'm going to base it off of Budbuilts Lefty crossmember and make a few changes. I was originally going to put some bends in it but i found out that if i left the straight across, it would lift the drive train the perfect amount.
So here is what i am starting with.
As you can see, the stock crossmember hangs way down as does the t case.
Here is the crossmember held up with the jack and the drivetrain raised 2 inches.
Here is what the crossmember looks like. The smaller plates that are bolted to the crossmember will get welded to the frame and then gusseted in. I also welded to bottom half of the t-case mount directly to the crossmember instead of using the 4 small bolts.
Since i have lifted the rear of the drivetrain, i need to order up the 4Crawler motor mount spacers and a driveshaft spacer.
After moving the gas tank, i will have a flat belly
Since installing the dual case setup, I've needed to add some support to the rear case since there is a lot more hanging off the back of the transmission. Also, the stock trans mount is pretty soft rubber and since mine has 214k miles on it, it had seen better days. It also won't hold up to the increased torque from being geared down so low.
I decided to buy the 4xinnovations gear drive tcase mount and build a new crossmember. Since i have a 2 inch body lift, i wanted to lift the trans up that 2 inches to gain more ground clearance.
Here is the 4xinnovations mount.
I went and bought some 3/8's plate and got to work. I'm going to base it off of Budbuilts Lefty crossmember and make a few changes. I was originally going to put some bends in it but i found out that if i left the straight across, it would lift the drive train the perfect amount.
So here is what i am starting with.
As you can see, the stock crossmember hangs way down as does the t case.
Here is the crossmember held up with the jack and the drivetrain raised 2 inches.
Here is what the crossmember looks like. The smaller plates that are bolted to the crossmember will get welded to the frame and then gusseted in. I also welded to bottom half of the t-case mount directly to the crossmember instead of using the 4 small bolts.
Since i have lifted the rear of the drivetrain, i need to order up the 4Crawler motor mount spacers and a driveshaft spacer.
After moving the gas tank, i will have a flat belly
steezemcqueen
Moderator
Finished wiring the elocker yesterday.
I used Dick Fosters writeup from TTORA which made it super simple.
Here is the link to it
http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/Writeup Stuff/toyota_elock_control.pdf
Since i had the stock locker switch, i wanted to use that instead of a universal DPDT switch. So instead i used a DPDT relay and used the factory RR Diff Lock switch to activate the relay.
Here is the relay i used
12VDC/10A DPDT Plug-in Relay : Plug-In Relays | RadioShack.com
Also, the factory switch does have a bulb for illumination but the harness isn't actually wired for it :noidea:. I ended up add some pins to the harness so the switch would illuminate and i used that as my locker status light. When the locker engages, the RR Diff Lock switch will glow. I was going to try and get the instrument cluster light going too but didn't feel like tearing into it.
Here is a short video of the operation.
The light is way more visible than the video shows.
Anywho. that wraps up the Elocker swap.
I used Dick Fosters writeup from TTORA which made it super simple.
Here is the link to it
http://www.norcalttora.com/~dick/Writeup Stuff/toyota_elock_control.pdf
Since i had the stock locker switch, i wanted to use that instead of a universal DPDT switch. So instead i used a DPDT relay and used the factory RR Diff Lock switch to activate the relay.
Here is the relay i used
12VDC/10A DPDT Plug-in Relay : Plug-In Relays | RadioShack.com
Also, the factory switch does have a bulb for illumination but the harness isn't actually wired for it :noidea:. I ended up add some pins to the harness so the switch would illuminate and i used that as my locker status light. When the locker engages, the RR Diff Lock switch will glow. I was going to try and get the instrument cluster light going too but didn't feel like tearing into it.
Here is a short video of the operation.
The light is way more visible than the video shows.
Anywho. that wraps up the Elocker swap.
BigFishAllDay
New member
Very cool, man. Nice work integrating the OEM switch w/the dick foster method via the relay... clever.
I intially went the same route in using the backlight for the switch as my "locked" indicator, however you'll find that once you get it in direct sunlight, or even on a bright sunny day, it gets tough to see. I ended up adding a separate LED indicator to my setup.
I intially went the same route in using the backlight for the switch as my "locked" indicator, however you'll find that once you get it in direct sunlight, or even on a bright sunny day, it gets tough to see. I ended up adding a separate LED indicator to my setup.
steezemcqueen
Moderator
Thanks Nick!
I played with it a bit today and i can tell when its locked or unlocked. But you are right that the difference in how it looks is pretty small in sunlight. I may try to dig into the cluster and see if i can get the indicator working. Thats gonna be a low priority project though :lol:
4Running Daily
New member
This should make that pretty easy
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...-hack-rr-diff-lock-light-used-air-locker.html
steezemcqueen
Moderator
After owning them for 2.5 years, the UCA's are finally installed :reddance:
smkd13
New member
After owning them for 2.5 years, the UCA's are finally installed :reddance:
Oh buddy lol it was a lot easier to install that I though they would be lol.
Downeys4Runner
New member
Holy s*** man, this is probably the best one I have seen yet. You are doing amazing work!
I know everyone is thinking "Someday I will do this... Someday."
I know everyone is thinking "Someday I will do this... Someday."
steezemcqueen
Moderator
Yeah it wasn't that bad. Way easier if you just pull the whole spindle to do the press work.
Thanks for the compliment! Feel free to ask if you have any questions about anything.
steezemcqueen
Moderator
T case crossmember is pretty much done. Just need to paint it and then cut out the stock crossmember and modify the belly skid to fit
Similar threads
