TheeMikeB Build Thread

[Forrrrest]

Yeah once that f-r was moving it was easy... like you said getting it to unseat was a *****.



Yeah it was/is... but it's one of those things... while you are there you might as well do it.

Besides I actually did all this work last April/May when I was home on paternity leave. We had a baby in Dec 2012 and when my wife went back to work I took 6 weeks off. My daughter was on a 2 hours awake... 2 hours napping schedule at the time so guess what I was doing during nap time?

ahhhahahaha thats funny. I wasnt aloud to do anything with my truck or camping, fishing anything when i took the time off to spend with my new born son. Whenever you get oem parts come down to my work. Ill get you a good price.

I'll be going through my whole front and rear end soon. Just waiting to get my new DD so i can leave it on jack stands for awhile

 

[TheeMikeB]

ahhhahahaha thats funny. I wasnt aloud to do anything with my truck or camping, fishing anything when i took the time off to spend with my new born son. Whenever you get oem parts come down to my work. Ill get you a good price.

I'll be going through my whole front and rear end soon. Just waiting to get my new DD so i can leave it on jack stands for awhile

Well luckily I had just completed remodeling our house so there was "nothing else really for me to do."

Thanks for the parts offer that's awesome of you. What do you do there? Are you in the parts dept?

 

[Fishwerks]

Sick build man. ARBs front and rear, I'm jelly.

How long have you had that lubelocker gasket on the rear diff? Any issues with it not sealing? I'm lazy, and it looks easier than RTV :biggrin2:

 

[TheeMikeB]

Sick build man. ARBs front and rear, I'm jelly.

How long have you had that lubelocker gasket on the rear diff? Any issues with it not sealing? I'm lazy, and it looks easier than RTV :biggrin2:

Thanks, it was a big decision for the front but since I got a deal on my rear it enabled me to afford the front. It's one of those... its really expensive but more expensive to put it in later so bite the bullet up front.

As for the lubelocker, I've had it in there for about a year and I noticed recently that along the top of the diff it's lightly 'sweating' some fluid. Nothing major but I have a feeling I just need to check the torque on the bolts. I would never even think of using RTV again.

During my build I had to swap flanges on the rear diff and didn't realize until after I installed it. So I had to pull the diff out after I installed it to swap flanges. If I had RTV on there it would be a big clean up mess and reapplication. With the lube locker it was simple and clean. I know it says you should not reuse them but since I only installed it and never drove it I didn't hesitate.

 

[TheeMikeB]

Next I had to figure out how to install my CBI all by my lonesome during my daughters nap breaks.

First step was to remove tow hitch:

Then the rear bumper starting with the plastic top part:

Then the side pieces:

I hate mud!

Rear bumper removed:

Inside look at factory 'stick nuts':

Here is the CBI Hybrid in all it's glory:

And my makeshift bumper installation helper:

 

[TheeMikeB]

Using the bumper installer assist method (ladders) I was able to get it just close enough to back my truck right up to it.

Pretty simple from there just lined up the holes and bolt it up.

You need to move the exhaust hanger to fit round the side support.

Then insert the brass bushings into the swing mount, I used a wood block and a hammer.

Then it "slides" onto the mount on the bumper, I lined it up and then used a mallet to get it on here... it was pretty easy:

then install the lock out/top cap piece using the two bolts:

Tada...

Then I installed the tire mount:

Then the gas can carrier:

Close up:

With the spare mounted:

 

[TheeMikeB]

Now it was time to install this:

I agonized over which winch to get and like most it was between the Warn M8000 or the Smittybilt. When I bought this last year there was a special going on ( I think a rebate or sale) and the Warn was very affordable but I really wanted the synthetic line and the Warn with synthetic as a lot of $$. I had to budget somewhere and with all the money I was pouring into my rig I decided the Smittybilt XRC8 with synthetic was the best choice. I read countless threads on them and it seemed that the earlier models had problems but they had since improved.

With all the money I saved I was able to get an ARB tree saver, Snatch strap, tow strap, and a snatch block.

Time to clock the winch:

Yes they are rebadged TMAX.

All back together and fitting it into my ARB bumper:

Since I had the bumper off I installed my IPF lights too:

Because I have the 01 which has the 'fat lip bumper' and protruding front grill, I was having a bit of a hard time getting the control box to fit properly. So I decided to try and get crafty which led to a few hours of headaches and cursing.

I wanted to install the relay box in a hidden location and then remote mount the control connector to the bumper. So I rewired the control connector to have an extra foot of lead and put the relay box here.

But the leads were just a friggin c-hare to short to reach the terminals on the winch. I tried a few different things but it just wouldn't reach. I didn't feel like prolonging the project any longer by going to buy longer wire and redo the control box so I decided to just make it work on the top of the bumper.

Pre ran the ground and wires for the lights:

zip tied along the front:

All mounted in the bumper and wires ran.

Back on the truck and starting to spool the line, getting this up on the truck by myself was a *****.. I ended up scratching up the side fenders doing this:

It's difficult to tell from the pics but the relay box is in contact with the grill. I had to bend the mounting tab forward a but to allow it to fit on there. This is why I wanted to remote mount the box. Eventually I think I will because the box is fading bad and looks like crap.

 

[TheeMikeB]

I decided it was also time to do a transmission fluid swap. You can see my fluid was rather dirty. The right is the dipstick, the left is from the bottle:

For my fluid swap, I used the method in which you disconnect the return line from the trans cooler and pump it into a bucket.

I marked out the qts on a 5 gal bucket, disconnected the return line to the transcooler and clipped it to a home depot bucket with a light. Started the truck and let about 2 qts pump out at a time.

After a few qts pumped out, I shut it down, added new fluid and repeated the process until my fluid came out clean. Near the end I shifted the transmission through the gears while it was pumping to flush out the entire system and make sure i got all the old fluid out.

Here are the results:

It was super simple, once the fluid came out clean I shut it down, reconnected my return line to the transcooler and topped it off. This entire process took about 40 minutes by myself. I used about 4 gallons of Valvoline Dex/Merc.

 

[TheeMikeB]

Installed my CB Radio like others in the Ashtray location. I used a Uniden Pro 520xl and firestick antenna mounted on my CBI swingout.


In this picture the CB is sticking out a bit more than it is now. I since installed a 90 elbow on my antenna cable which allowed the unit to slide back another inch and it now sits flush.

Here is the cuts I made to the ashtray to fit the CB in.

I ran the antenna cable all along the footwell/doorjamb area and out through the tail light grommet.

There is enough space behind the light to allow the cable to pass through without crushing it. Then I just used sticky cable clips to hold it in place.

Here is a view of how the cable looks with the swing away closed. No interference or kinking on closure.

All done and ready for SWR tuning.

 

[JWaldz]

Hell yea, nice goodies man! Looking good! I've been contemplating that winch for a while. I really want the X20 Comp 8k.

 

[WRWhit93]

Very nice! I have that rear bumper sitting at home just waiting to get installed. Looks good, I like the antenna mount location, too.

 

[TheeMikeB]

Very nice! I have that rear bumper sitting at home just waiting to get installed. Looks good, I like the antenna mount location, too.

What are you waiting for? DO IT!

 

[drtyjerz47]

Started the steering components replacement by checking my ITREs, disconnected the OTRE and checked the resistance... they just flailed around and I knew my inners were toast.

Pulled the boot to expose the ITRE.

Stock ITRE removed, I used a pipe wrench and it worked great.

Shot of the rack with ITRE removed:

The IRTEs are the ONLY part that I didn't buy OEM, I just didn't have the budget and I figured these were the least likely to fail as they are less exposed to rocks.

Side by side... OEM Top, NAPA on bottom:

Installed:

Now time for OTRE: Both OEM, old on top, new on bottom.

Looks like the old one had a little more thread adjustment:

LBJs: Top new/Old bottom

Coming up... UBJs

how are those NAPA parts holding up. i keep hearing that OEM was the only way to go. i was wondering if you have had any issues yet

 

[BrianSD_42]

My god man ...

Did you really need to quote the entire post and all those pictures.

 

[Slow_T4R]

This is the first time I poked into this thread and I gotta say, awesome build man. I'll def be checking this more often.

 

[TheeMikeB]

how are those NAPA parts holding up. i keep hearing that OEM was the only way to go. i was wondering if you have had any issues yet

No issues yet, like I said only the ITRE are not OEM. They are holding up fine. All parts will break period, I broke an OEM OTRE on Rubicon. You can see that here: Rubicon

My god man ...

Did you really need to quote the entire post and all those pictures.

LOL maybe mods can edit so it's not so bloated?

This is the first time I poked into this thread and I gotta say, awesome build man. I'll def be checking this more often.

Thank you, I see your link to your thread I'll return the favor.

 

[TheeMikeB]

So lately I've noticed an issue with my rig when it shifts into 3rd. (Auto trans)

Truck runs great, no CEL all tuned up recent maint.. blah blah blah.

Driving... 1st gear great, 2nd gear great, 3rd gear starts ok then when I get right around 2500 rpm I seem to have 'no more power' I can continue at my speed but it doesn't seem to want to continue accelerating anymore. Almost like i'm all of a sudden pulling a huge trailer and she just can't go any faster. It's not revving higher like it's slipping it just seems like it can't go any faster. If I give it more gas it just kinda does nothing, when I finally give it enough it will kick down to 2nd and go like a bat out of hell.

When it eventually shifts to 4th it continues like normal and I can cruise 70-75mph no problem.

This problem plagued me for over a month or so but since I hardly ever drive it or had any wheeling trips planned, it moved to the back burner. But recently I decided to bring it in because I couldn't figure out what it was on my own.

Turned out to be a god damn DIRTY MAF!!!!!!! I SWEAR I cleaned that thing off and checked my airfilter at the same time... took a damn mechanic to figure it out.

Oh well at least it's running solid again.

 

[shootmymime]

So lately I've noticed an issue with my rig when it shifts into 3rd. (Auto trans)

Truck runs great, no CEL all tuned up recent maint.. blah blah blah.

Driving... 1st gear great, 2nd gear great, 3rd gear starts ok then when I get right around 2500 rpm I seem to have 'no more power' I can continue at my speed but it doesn't seem to want to continue accelerating anymore. Almost like i'm all of a sudden pulling a huge trailer and she just can't go any faster. It's not revving higher like it's slipping it just seems like it can't go any faster. If I give it more gas it just kinda does nothing, when I finally give it enough it will kick down to 2nd and go like a bat out of hell.

When it eventually shifts to 4th it continues like normal and I can cruise 70-75mph no problem.

This problem plagued me for over a month or so but since I hardly ever drive it or had any wheeling trips planned, it moved to the back burner. But recently I decided to bring it in because I couldn't figure out what it was on my own.

Turned out to be a god damn DIRTY MAF!!!!!!! I SWEAR I cleaned that thing off and checked my airfilter at the same time... took a damn mechanic to figure it out.

Oh well at least it's running solid again.

Wow I would not have thought a maf would do that at that gear/ rpm and air intake. Cool tho! Glad u got it figured out

 

[TheeMikeB]

Wow I would not have thought a maf would do that at that gear/ rpm and air intake. Cool tho! Glad u got it figured out

Neither did I but he ran it on the computer and he said it was running lean. He checked exhaust, fuel pressure, fuel filter and finally MAF. Guess it was just running lean enough and under that load/gear ratio it couldn't go anymore. Which would explain why eventually it would make it past and shift then run fine.

 

[Firstborn10]

Good thing you got that figured out! Mine seems to have a problem in second gear when it's cold. The very first time it goes to shift into second after being off for long enough to get cold, when it goes to shift to third, it will hold second gear FOREVER!! It just won't shift into third until around 2,700~3,000 rpm, then it will finally shift into third, and won't do it again. Pretty sure it's no big deal since it only happens when it's cold. Btw, I absolutely love your 4runner. You're CBI swingout looks amazing. Keep up the good work!