shootmymime
New member
Yeah I've got a problem with mine once it gets second or third it takes forever to get up to 30-45 so I wonder if I should clean mine
TheeMikeB Build Thread
- Thread starter TheeMikeB
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TheeMikeB
New member
I would as part of checking all your basics, make sure to use only MAF sensor cleaner. Anything else will destroy it.
I actually read that if you suspect the MAF that you can disconnect it and see if the issue goes away. If it goes away it's the MAF, it it doesn't it's something else. So for you, disconnect it, drive it and see if it gets better on acceleration. Your CEL will come on but should go out after you reconnect it. If not use a SG or disconnect the battery to reset it.
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shootmymime
New member
Yeah ive got a UG, can you tell me your readings on your intake for what ever the MAF reads and i will compare it with my readings?
Forrrrest
New member
Yes sir parts department. I work whole sale and heavy duty mechanics but I can always help out a fellow 4runner man ha
TheeMikeB
New member
I can do that but it will prob be a few days before I can get to it.
TheeMikeB
New member
So over the weekend I got motivated to fix a few things that have been nagging me. Especially since I fixed my MAF issue, I kind of got a new breath of excitement for my rig again.
1st up was to fix my bud built skid plates that got beat to shit on Rubicon. I pulled my front skid and belly pan and had to pound them back into shape. I took a few pics of the pans but they didn't really pick up the real carnage they had suffered from the trail. So once I realized that I just went on to fix them since I didn't have a whole lot of time to spend documenting the process.
Basically I had to use an 8lb full size sledge to get the major warps out of the pans and then use my small 3lb sledge to get the small dings out. My belly pan was pretty concave and needed a good pounding. The front wasn't as bad and only had a few ding spots that needed some work.
After they were reshaped, I had to take care of the bare metal scrapes and get the rust off an repaint to prevent future rust. So I ran my 4 1/2 inch grinder with a flap wheel on it to get rid of the rust scrapes off then,did a quick wash with a bucket of simple green/water mix to get the oil and dirt off. Then did a quick coat of VHT chassis/roll bar paint which Is what I used on them originally. Left them on the side of the house to dry.
In other news.....
I hooked up with a guy from TTORA with the handle Hytenor and he helped my build a rear diff skid. He spent some time developing and working on a design for the Tacoma trucks and took it as far as just about getting it made into a DIY kit for the Tacomas. However we found that the 4runner and Tacoma axles are VERY different as we knew but more so when you try to fit a diff skid on there. Mostly around the UCA towers,spring towers, and ebrake connections.
Anyway.. We had some correspondence on TTORA and eventually he invited me over to build a diff skid at his place, in the mean time teaching me some welding /fab skills. So using some spare steel he had we ended up making this...
It is a beefy skid that has some pinion protection and fits so close to the bottom you only lose about 1/4" of clearance.
We had to modify my ebrake bracket and do some trimming on my gas skid but it fits great and offers great protection with a built up area around the drain plug.
Here it is getting prepped to be primed....
Here it is getting primed....
Last but not least from this weekend I decided to remove my SR5 fender flares because I tore one off on my last Rubicon trip. So just removed them all and looking at it now I don't know why I didn't do this a long time ago. It looks so much better with them off. I know it's subtle but I love them off.
Before:
After:
Just looks cleaner to me.
1st up was to fix my bud built skid plates that got beat to shit on Rubicon. I pulled my front skid and belly pan and had to pound them back into shape. I took a few pics of the pans but they didn't really pick up the real carnage they had suffered from the trail. So once I realized that I just went on to fix them since I didn't have a whole lot of time to spend documenting the process.
Basically I had to use an 8lb full size sledge to get the major warps out of the pans and then use my small 3lb sledge to get the small dings out. My belly pan was pretty concave and needed a good pounding. The front wasn't as bad and only had a few ding spots that needed some work.
After they were reshaped, I had to take care of the bare metal scrapes and get the rust off an repaint to prevent future rust. So I ran my 4 1/2 inch grinder with a flap wheel on it to get rid of the rust scrapes off then,did a quick wash with a bucket of simple green/water mix to get the oil and dirt off. Then did a quick coat of VHT chassis/roll bar paint which Is what I used on them originally. Left them on the side of the house to dry.
In other news.....
I hooked up with a guy from TTORA with the handle Hytenor and he helped my build a rear diff skid. He spent some time developing and working on a design for the Tacoma trucks and took it as far as just about getting it made into a DIY kit for the Tacomas. However we found that the 4runner and Tacoma axles are VERY different as we knew but more so when you try to fit a diff skid on there. Mostly around the UCA towers,spring towers, and ebrake connections.
Anyway.. We had some correspondence on TTORA and eventually he invited me over to build a diff skid at his place, in the mean time teaching me some welding /fab skills. So using some spare steel he had we ended up making this...
It is a beefy skid that has some pinion protection and fits so close to the bottom you only lose about 1/4" of clearance.
We had to modify my ebrake bracket and do some trimming on my gas skid but it fits great and offers great protection with a built up area around the drain plug.
Here it is getting prepped to be primed....
Here it is getting primed....
Last but not least from this weekend I decided to remove my SR5 fender flares because I tore one off on my last Rubicon trip. So just removed them all and looking at it now I don't know why I didn't do this a long time ago. It looks so much better with them off. I know it's subtle but I love them off.
Before:
After:
Just looks cleaner to me.
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TheeMikeB
New member
Picked up a set of inexpensive rock lights from xkglow for $55. Haven't hooked them up yet but think i'll have some time this week after work. The kit seems a little on the cheap-o side but it's to be expected for $55. I figured I'd see how much I actually use rock lights and if I really feel they are worth it i'll upgrade to something more serious.
TheeMikeB
New member
Yeah I'm a little skeptical of the tape but hoping with a good clean surface they will adhere pretty well.
Also was searching around after the fact and found these over on Pirate:
ROCK LIGHTS - FREE LIGHT OFFER - UNDER GLOW.COM - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
$35 for a big string of 20 and it looks like they have screwholes on each pod. All you need is a switch and a relay and with 20 you have extras for back hatch or underhood.
TheeMikeB
New member
I didn't make too much headway on the rock lights yet, just been too busy.
But I decided that I wanted to go with a new coilover setup and am going to go with the Toytec BOSS. In order to fund my new setup I sold my IPF lights, my OME coils, and some Bose 10.2 speakers I had.
When I pulled my IPFs off, since I was there and had the lower dash apart, I did install the switch for my rocklights, it is similar to the IPF switch so I just stuck it to the side of the steering wheel column on the right side. I forgot to take a pic but i'm hoping to swap my coils out this weekend so i'll snap some shots then cause I might as well install the rock lights while I'm under there.
But I decided that I wanted to go with a new coilover setup and am going to go with the Toytec BOSS. In order to fund my new setup I sold my IPF lights, my OME coils, and some Bose 10.2 speakers I had.
When I pulled my IPFs off, since I was there and had the lower dash apart, I did install the switch for my rocklights, it is similar to the IPF switch so I just stuck it to the side of the steering wheel column on the right side. I forgot to take a pic but i'm hoping to swap my coils out this weekend so i'll snap some shots then cause I might as well install the rock lights while I'm under there.
TheeMikeB
New member
So as you can see from above, I decided to swap out my OMEs for some adjustables. The OMEs served me well for about 11,000 miles but with the added bumper winch just don't give me the lift I want in front especially with the LC coils I have in the rear. Last wheeling trip I just felt the front needed to be about an inch or so higher.
Decided on the Toytec Boss coil overs and got a chance to put them on this weekend. Here are some pics.
Here is a shot with my OME setup before the swap:
OMEs vs Toytec Boss:
OMEs removed:
Toytec getting installed with the help of my old stock jack.
Installed and torqued down...
OMEs cleaned up and ready to send off to another member who purchased...
And after.. hard to see because of the sun but I also took measurements..
Before:
Front Pass Fender to Hub=23 1/4
Driver Fender to Hub:= 23 1/2
Pass Fender to Hub= 24 1/2
Driver Fender to Hub = 24 1/2
After:
Front Pass Fender to Hub=24 1/2
Driver Fender to Hub:= 24 3/4
Pass Fender to Hub= 24 1/2
Driver Fender to Hub = 24 1/2
So you can see I was able to adjust and compensate for the additional bumper and winch better with the adjustables. I adjusted the driver 1/4 inch higher to compensate for driver and fuel tank. Going to let it settle for a month and see how it sits, then take it to an alignment shop to get setup. It's not my dd and I only drive about once a week to work which is about 10 miles r/t. This should let it settle a bit and give me a true reading, then i'll measure and adjust all around before taking it to get aligned.
Decided on the Toytec Boss coil overs and got a chance to put them on this weekend. Here are some pics.
Here is a shot with my OME setup before the swap:
OMEs vs Toytec Boss:
OMEs removed:
Toytec getting installed with the help of my old stock jack.
Installed and torqued down...
OMEs cleaned up and ready to send off to another member who purchased...
And after.. hard to see because of the sun but I also took measurements..
Before:
Front Pass Fender to Hub=23 1/4
Driver Fender to Hub:= 23 1/2
Pass Fender to Hub= 24 1/2
Driver Fender to Hub = 24 1/2
After:
Front Pass Fender to Hub=24 1/2
Driver Fender to Hub:= 24 3/4
Pass Fender to Hub= 24 1/2
Driver Fender to Hub = 24 1/2
So you can see I was able to adjust and compensate for the additional bumper and winch better with the adjustables. I adjusted the driver 1/4 inch higher to compensate for driver and fuel tank. Going to let it settle for a month and see how it sits, then take it to an alignment shop to get setup. It's not my dd and I only drive about once a week to work which is about 10 miles r/t. This should let it settle a bit and give me a true reading, then i'll measure and adjust all around before taking it to get aligned.
TheeMikeB
New member
Did my LED swap last night. Went from stock green to red in the dash/switches/keyring and cool white in the glove box. The cig lighter I just pulled the green cover off the stock bulb left it that way because this one would be more complicated due to the way the bulb is part of the plug itself. It wasn't worth it for me to engineer a way to connect it so it's white.
And since I have my ABS disabled and the dash lights were constantly on, I pulled the bulbs out of the ABS, VSC/TRAC and BRAKE so no more annoying warning lights glaring me in the face.
Tried getting the dome lights brighter by using these as some other members have used:
Flexible 5mm LED Dome Light
These are not as bright as I hoped... not sure if its because I went with natural white or what but I wish I went with the The Slimmest LED Dome Light on the Market but that price must makes me balk.
Didn't take pics of the swap since it's been covered many times before but it was much easier than I anticipated. I took a pic of the finished product but don't have a way to upload it right now. I'll do it tonight. Came out great with almost zero hot spots. I also used parchment paper in the climate control area to help.
Here is the list of bulbs I used for my swap.
2 BA9S-WHP9 Cool White (map)
3 NEO4-RHP 4mm NEO4-xHP Red (Climate Control)
2 NEO3-RHP 3mm NEO3-xHP Red (ECT/Window Button)
1 74-WHP Cool White (Glove)
1 74-RHP Red (Key Ring)
3 24-RHP Red (Dash/instrument)
And since I have my ABS disabled and the dash lights were constantly on, I pulled the bulbs out of the ABS, VSC/TRAC and BRAKE so no more annoying warning lights glaring me in the face.
Tried getting the dome lights brighter by using these as some other members have used:
Flexible 5mm LED Dome Light
These are not as bright as I hoped... not sure if its because I went with natural white or what but I wish I went with the The Slimmest LED Dome Light on the Market but that price must makes me balk.
Didn't take pics of the swap since it's been covered many times before but it was much easier than I anticipated. I took a pic of the finished product but don't have a way to upload it right now. I'll do it tonight. Came out great with almost zero hot spots. I also used parchment paper in the climate control area to help.
Here is the list of bulbs I used for my swap.
2 BA9S-WHP9 Cool White (map)
3 NEO4-RHP 4mm NEO4-xHP Red (Climate Control)
2 NEO3-RHP 3mm NEO3-xHP Red (ECT/Window Button)
1 74-WHP Cool White (Glove)
1 74-RHP Red (Key Ring)
3 24-RHP Red (Dash/instrument)
TheeMikeB
New member
Got a chance to get my pics uploaded of my LED swap:
The camera makes it appear as if there are more hotspots than there really are. It actually came out pretty good in real life.
And finally got around to installing my XKGlow Rock Light Kit:
I still need to clean up the wiring and seal the quick connects but you can see where I mounted them. I used the supplied brackets and double sided tape, cleaned spaces along the frame with brake cleaner followed by some windex to make a clean surface.
Front Driver:
Driver Behind Front Wheel:
Driver Center Frame:
Driver Front of Rear Wheel:
Driver Tail Area:
Finished Product: (This was in the garage so there is so my outside lights are glaring a bit in the back)
This is out on the street... still a little street light but you get the idea:
Overall for $55 this is an ok little kit. I still needed to buy more wire and I picked up about 28' of flexible wire tube to protect the wire along the underside and because it looks cleaner. So I spent an additional $12 on primary wire and 5 bucks on tubing. So $77... now to see how it holds up.
The camera makes it appear as if there are more hotspots than there really are. It actually came out pretty good in real life.
And finally got around to installing my XKGlow Rock Light Kit:
I still need to clean up the wiring and seal the quick connects but you can see where I mounted them. I used the supplied brackets and double sided tape, cleaned spaces along the frame with brake cleaner followed by some windex to make a clean surface.
Front Driver:
Driver Behind Front Wheel:
Driver Center Frame:
Driver Front of Rear Wheel:
Driver Tail Area:
Finished Product: (This was in the garage so there is so my outside lights are glaring a bit in the back)
This is out on the street... still a little street light but you get the idea:
Overall for $55 this is an ok little kit. I still needed to buy more wire and I picked up about 28' of flexible wire tube to protect the wire along the underside and because it looks cleaner. So I spent an additional $12 on primary wire and 5 bucks on tubing. So $77... now to see how it holds up.
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TheeMikeB
New member
Ordered up my Blue Sea Fuse Block and Ckt breaker. Best price I found was from a boat supply place out of Ohio. Boatersland Marine
Arrived 2 days later so they must have drop shipped it from somewhere closer.
Don't laugh about the hair dryer... that's my heat gun for shrink tubing.
Arrived 2 days later so they must have drop shipped it from somewhere closer.
Don't laugh about the hair dryer... that's my heat gun for shrink tubing.
