octanejunkie
Elite Member
Murphy's Law, it applies double if you're Irish
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Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
theesotericone's Trails and BS Thread
- Thread starter theesotericone
- Start date
Scramble
New member
I'm Black Irish so I dont have any small problems. :cheers:
octanejunkie
Elite Member
habanero
Senior Member
I've cut through a finger tendon though thankfully not with a grinder (!)- that's my arch-nemisis tool. Have also broken that finger 3 times getting used to a finger that usually sticks straight out so I'm gonna not recommend it. Well....it does look pretty fancy when I'm holding a drink....
Also, that was a really gross pic! Glad you're keeping good range of motion, especially since you'll need it for special transfer case loving.
Also, that was a really gross pic! Glad you're keeping good range of motion, especially since you'll need it for special transfer case loving.
Unner
New member
UPS and Fedex seem to be going towards the ways of the USPS lately... I've had packages shown up totally beat up and open from UPS recently, and Fedex left a "signature required" rush delivery document for me soaking wet by the front door without getting a signature. Presumably because they didn't want to get in trouble for whatever reason it was wet...
Best of luck on the finger recovery, don't rush it and make things even worse further down the road.
Road Bull
Senior Member
Dude... That finger gash looked pretty brutal. Glad that you are okay.
A long time ago I was in a class where an instructor was showing pictures of accident scenes, (all power tool related), where we tried to guess what happened that killed the victim. One was a back deck where someone was using a skill saw. You could see the path that he was cutting and where it stopped. He hit a nail and the nail hit his throat. The instructor said he was DRT... We looked puzzled as we tried to remember an acronym for DRT. He said yes sir, he was Dead Right There.
I swear that UPS uses cement mixers to deliver some of my packages. Just rolling around in the back getting tumbled by the blades... I hope you get the trans situation sorted. That must be insanely frustrating.
A long time ago I was in a class where an instructor was showing pictures of accident scenes, (all power tool related), where we tried to guess what happened that killed the victim. One was a back deck where someone was using a skill saw. You could see the path that he was cutting and where it stopped. He hit a nail and the nail hit his throat. The instructor said he was DRT... We looked puzzled as we tried to remember an acronym for DRT. He said yes sir, he was Dead Right There.
I swear that UPS uses cement mixers to deliver some of my packages. Just rolling around in the back getting tumbled by the blades... I hope you get the trans situation sorted. That must be insanely frustrating.
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Who would try to ship a t-case in a cardboard box??
Would this guy's t-case work for you? http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t4r-items/259137-3rd-gen-transfercase-$100-obo-whittier-ca.html
theesotericone
New member
Thanks guys. I saw an ortho yesterday. He was surprised by the range of motion and the healing rate. Then I told him the splints been off since an hour after it was put on and I've been deep tissue massaging the finger. His input was to keep doing that and stop if it hurts. I love old school docs. He's not worried about any further tearing and gave me the thumbs up to return to work next Monday.
That's a multi-mode case. I could make it work but it's just easier to use the one I have. I'm pulling it apart in an hour or so. Once I get a look and verify the internals are still good I'll be all set.
4Runner4Leon
Senior Member
Sounds good, good luck! But if that fails, '97 shouldn't be a multi-mode, unless he mis-listed it.
theesotericone
New member
Your right. It shouldn't but if you look at the photo you can see the actuator on the back of the case.
phattyduck
Elite Member
Its push-button non-multimode ('96-'98 Limited).
And I totally missed the finger stuff the first time around. I did a little love tap of my finger with a grinding wheel a little while back in almost the exact same spot, but it luckily didn't make it all the way down past the skin. I did get to see a spray of skin off the disk when it happened though!
-Charlie
Flemster
Member
Ouch! I started wearing my welding mask when grinding because during my firewall chop I had 3 disks explode in my face and I got lucky each time with no guard on the grinder. I should probably start wearing gloves haha. Pretty gnarly but glad all is well. Excited to see that thing with dual cases. I'm saving for 5.29's. Which I may pm you some questions about....
theesotericone
New member
Yeah, if i was wearing a pair of leathers this never would have happened.
As far as the gear set goes, ask away. You can PM me if you want or we can talk about it in my thread. That way others can reference it if needed.
Overall, I'm super happy I went 5.29's. They're a bit high in the RPM band at 75 mph going up steep grades but I can hold that speed and even speed up when needed. I couldn't come close to that with 4.10's.
Flemster
Member
My main concern was running too high of RPM all the time while at highway speed, 70-75 but you being on large 33's and saying that only pulling hills its high I feel your cruising rpm's are not bad. Being on 35's that will be even less of an issue for me. I'm just trying to avoid holding 3800-4500rpm on every tiny hill and mountain pass to hold 60mph. Also bogging down in over drive on anything slightly more than flat ground including a small gust of wind haha. If its windy I'm sitting at 2600 rpm cooking my tranny to hold 70-75 with constant shifts to 3ish k. On a good day I can cruise in over drive and get like 19mpg though. Regardless gears need to happen I just think 4.88 wont give me the bang for my buck.
theesotericone
New member
If your on 35's go with 5.29's.
There's a 7 mile long 6% grade I drive fairly often. It goes from 4000' to just over 7000'. With 33's and 4.10's if I wanted to actually hold 75 MPH my rig would drop into 2nd at 5000 RPM's. With the 5.29's it stays in third at just over 4000 RPM's.
Driving around on the highway it couldn't hold OD on even the slightest hill. Now it holds OD almost all the time. The only time it drops into 3rd is if the hill is steep or long. Keep in mind all of this "testing" has been done with cruise control. I'm letting the truck do it's thing without any input from me.
I've never come close to 19 MPG. My truck is a 15-16 MPG rig and still is with the 5.29's. I always have a lot of wheeling miles on any tank so I can't give a real highway MPG number.
theesotericone
New member
Some stuff happened today.
Got a good look at the t-case. Everything works and there is no damage other than cosmetic. Took some time to clean it up as well.
I took this stupid thing out.
Then I ground the shift rail to allow for twin sticks. Did it in the case with a Dremmel.
Then threw it all together. 2WD works. 4WD works. 2WD Lo works. 4WD Lo works. 2WD Lo/Lo works. 4WD Lo/Lo works. That's a lot of options. lol
So the dual case bench work is all finished. Next in line is actually installing this beast. I don't have a low profile tranny jack so I'm thinking of some ideas. I do have exposed garage rafters and a sunroof.
Tomorrow's agenda will be swapping in the 99 console and e-brake. Then I'll drill a 1/4" hole dead center in the cup holder. That will make lining up the twin sticks a lot easier.
Got a good look at the t-case. Everything works and there is no damage other than cosmetic. Took some time to clean it up as well.
I took this stupid thing out.
Then I ground the shift rail to allow for twin sticks. Did it in the case with a Dremmel.
Then threw it all together. 2WD works. 4WD works. 2WD Lo works. 4WD Lo works. 2WD Lo/Lo works. 4WD Lo/Lo works. That's a lot of options. lol
So the dual case bench work is all finished. Next in line is actually installing this beast. I don't have a low profile tranny jack so I'm thinking of some ideas. I do have exposed garage rafters and a sunroof.
Tomorrow's agenda will be swapping in the 99 console and e-brake. Then I'll drill a 1/4" hole dead center in the cup holder. That will make lining up the twin sticks a lot easier.
theesotericone
New member
Managed to sneak in a few hours of work on the rig today.
First up was fixing an audio problem I had. I few months ago I noticed my front left speaker sounded like shit. The day before that I had installed some ARB locker switches. That happens to involve removing the drivers side floor rail and most of the dash. Switches where installed, lockers worked and I was stoked. Until I played some tunes.
WTF? The drivers side speaker was screeching and in general sounded like shit. Luckily me amp also has a 3 channel mode. I switched to that and everything sounded way better. Fast forward to today. I needed to get back to 4 channel and since I had to pull the carpet back to work on the duals I might as well look into it.
This is what I found:
No wonder the 4th channel was screwed(see that I did there?). Being a good audiophile I happen to have more RCA cables then RadioShack. Ran a new RCA and verified everything was working again. It was and I was happy.
The next thing that needed to go to make my life easier for installing the duals was the seats. The passenger side came out without a fight. The drivers side decided to be a PIMA. The front bolt next to the tunnel wouldn't let loose. Another WTF moment.
Just at that exact moment my wife came in the garage. The front sprinklers weren't rotating. I'll spare you the next 2 hours of my day but the wife is happy and the sprinklers are back to working. Happy wife, happy life. I'm not getting that 2 hours back but she's smiling so all is well.
So back to that damn spinner. I finally just used the seat as a giant ever and kept backing it out. This was the result:
WTF moment #3 came when removing the driveshafts. The transfer case sides where a huge problem. Most likely because they hadn't been touched in 21 years. Something that should have taken minutes took a lot longer. Heat and Liquid Wrench eventually solved the problem and allowed me to remove both. I would have taken photo's of this but then I'd have to find my phone I just threw across the garage. lol
Cross members where removed and fluid was drained from the t-case. At that point I found my phone. It still works. Thank you Spigen cases.
Now it was time to remove the shifters. With the seats gone and the trim out of the way it was easy work. There's 7 bolts that hold the shifter assembly to the tunnel and one bolt holding the auto shifter to the trans linkage. With those gone you get this.
The next thing on the agenda is getting that pesky t-case out of the way. There's 8 bolts that hold it to the tail housing. One is a real ***** to get out. I like to leave room for adventure so I'm not gonna mention which one.
I also couldn't buy or borrow a trans jack. I wasn't about to let that hang me up so I did a bit of redneck engineering. While I'm sure the city boys love there trans jacks us country folk gotta do what we gotta do. lol
So with the t-case out of the way it was time to do some math. Since I already drilled out center of each cup holder I knew I'd end up in the rear cup holder. Then it was as siple as taking some numbers from the already built dual case and transferring those numbers to the underside of the tunnel. This is what math looks like transferred to the bottom of the tunnel.
With the math out of the way it was time to cut. I drilled the corners of the cutout up from underneath and then made the cut from the top side with an angle grinder. For the record that angle grinder had no guard on it and I didn't have to go to the emergency room. Getting back on the horse if you will. This is where I really f'ing hope the rear shifter sticks up. lol
That's all for today. I'll be back at it tomorrow. The rear tail housing needs to come off. The bearing and oil seal need to be removed. The 23 spline coupler and new oil seal need to be RTV'd. Some electrical connections need to be extended. Then that monster dual case has to go in. If any of you city boys are reading this and want to drive a trans jack my way I'd appreciate it. lol
First up was fixing an audio problem I had. I few months ago I noticed my front left speaker sounded like shit. The day before that I had installed some ARB locker switches. That happens to involve removing the drivers side floor rail and most of the dash. Switches where installed, lockers worked and I was stoked. Until I played some tunes.
WTF? The drivers side speaker was screeching and in general sounded like shit. Luckily me amp also has a 3 channel mode. I switched to that and everything sounded way better. Fast forward to today. I needed to get back to 4 channel and since I had to pull the carpet back to work on the duals I might as well look into it.
This is what I found:
No wonder the 4th channel was screwed(see that I did there?). Being a good audiophile I happen to have more RCA cables then RadioShack. Ran a new RCA and verified everything was working again. It was and I was happy.
The next thing that needed to go to make my life easier for installing the duals was the seats. The passenger side came out without a fight. The drivers side decided to be a PIMA. The front bolt next to the tunnel wouldn't let loose. Another WTF moment.
Just at that exact moment my wife came in the garage. The front sprinklers weren't rotating. I'll spare you the next 2 hours of my day but the wife is happy and the sprinklers are back to working. Happy wife, happy life. I'm not getting that 2 hours back but she's smiling so all is well.
So back to that damn spinner. I finally just used the seat as a giant ever and kept backing it out. This was the result:
WTF moment #3 came when removing the driveshafts. The transfer case sides where a huge problem. Most likely because they hadn't been touched in 21 years. Something that should have taken minutes took a lot longer. Heat and Liquid Wrench eventually solved the problem and allowed me to remove both. I would have taken photo's of this but then I'd have to find my phone I just threw across the garage. lol
Cross members where removed and fluid was drained from the t-case. At that point I found my phone. It still works. Thank you Spigen cases.
Now it was time to remove the shifters. With the seats gone and the trim out of the way it was easy work. There's 7 bolts that hold the shifter assembly to the tunnel and one bolt holding the auto shifter to the trans linkage. With those gone you get this.
The next thing on the agenda is getting that pesky t-case out of the way. There's 8 bolts that hold it to the tail housing. One is a real ***** to get out. I like to leave room for adventure so I'm not gonna mention which one.
I also couldn't buy or borrow a trans jack. I wasn't about to let that hang me up so I did a bit of redneck engineering. While I'm sure the city boys love there trans jacks us country folk gotta do what we gotta do. lol
So with the t-case out of the way it was time to do some math. Since I already drilled out center of each cup holder I knew I'd end up in the rear cup holder. Then it was as siple as taking some numbers from the already built dual case and transferring those numbers to the underside of the tunnel. This is what math looks like transferred to the bottom of the tunnel.
With the math out of the way it was time to cut. I drilled the corners of the cutout up from underneath and then made the cut from the top side with an angle grinder. For the record that angle grinder had no guard on it and I didn't have to go to the emergency room. Getting back on the horse if you will. This is where I really f'ing hope the rear shifter sticks up. lol
That's all for today. I'll be back at it tomorrow. The rear tail housing needs to come off. The bearing and oil seal need to be removed. The 23 spline coupler and new oil seal need to be RTV'd. Some electrical connections need to be extended. Then that monster dual case has to go in. If any of you city boys are reading this and want to drive a trans jack my way I'd appreciate it. lol
Last edited:
habanero
Senior Member
We used one of those floor jack and what-all conglomerations for the tranny/transfer case combo once.
ONCE.
Glad to see it puttin' along. More than a few of us have bolts that run through the body after the stupid seat bolt cuts loose. Yours looks like someone's version of a repair.
That sure is some sparkly clean transfer case. Hubba!
ONCE.
Glad to see it puttin' along. More than a few of us have bolts that run through the body after the stupid seat bolt cuts loose. Yours looks like someone's version of a repair.
That sure is some sparkly clean transfer case. Hubba!
theesotericone
New member
Well, the duals are on hold for a bit. The coupling that TG sent with the dual adapter kit is the wrong spline count. The t-case uses a 23 spline(Marlin total input). That part of the coupling works perfect. 2.7 autos and all 3.4's use a 23 spline trans output. The 2.7 manual uses a 26 spline. Guess what coupler I have. Yep, 23 x 26 spline.
I'll get a hold of some folks tomorrow when they are open. After expressing my complete and total frustration I'm sure they'll overnight the correct 23 x 23 spline coupling. It's always the little things that hold up the big projects.
I did get the tail housing prepped. That involves removing the oil seal, snap ring, and bearing. Here's it just out of the rig:
These are the parts that need to be removed for the dual conversion.
I also took the time to mate the tail housing to the crawlbox. That part fits perfectly and should be no issues.
Here's that coupling that's holding up the show.
Once I get the correct coupling I'll finish the install. It's a delay I didn't expect and didn't need but that's life. While I'm waiting I might just buy one of those fancy trans jacks. lol
I'll get a hold of some folks tomorrow when they are open. After expressing my complete and total frustration I'm sure they'll overnight the correct 23 x 23 spline coupling. It's always the little things that hold up the big projects.
I did get the tail housing prepped. That involves removing the oil seal, snap ring, and bearing. Here's it just out of the rig:
These are the parts that need to be removed for the dual conversion.
I also took the time to mate the tail housing to the crawlbox. That part fits perfectly and should be no issues.
Here's that coupling that's holding up the show.
Once I get the correct coupling I'll finish the install. It's a delay I didn't expect and didn't need but that's life. While I'm waiting I might just buy one of those fancy trans jacks. lol
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