theesotericone's Trails and BS Thread

[Plastics guy]

Thank you for taking the time to post pictures along the way. Its been very helpful for me to see what the hell Im going to be up against once I go dual tranfer case.

What I am learning is this project is a PITA! But so nice once complete...:cheers:

 

[psraff]

Sorry if I missed the specs on it, but with your duel case, are you changing to a manual as well or keeping it an automatic? I'm asking because when it's assembled on the floor, that looks like a manual stick. :noidea::noidea:

 

[theesotericone]

Thank you for taking the time to post pictures along the way. Its been very helpful for me to see what the hell Im going to be up against once I go dual tranfer case.

What I am learning is this project is a PITA! But so nice once complete...:cheers:

It's honestly not that bad. There's not really any custom work other then the driveshafts. The rest of it is a piece together kit. It's nothing compared to that guys like [MENTION=118730]AssBurns[/MENTION] and [MENTION=67615]Dirtco[/MENTION] are doing. That stuff is where the true work comes in IMO.

If you look online there is jackshit for install guides. There's a few and they all have different steps. They suck basically. So I've just been going through the motions using common sense. Once you start it's pretty straight forward. If you plan on doing it start sourcing the 84-88 4 cyl manual t-case now. It's getting to be the hardest part to find for this conversion.

Once these are in I might be hitting you up for a one off custom mount for the crawl box and rear t-case. I'm going to try and make it works with some stock mounts I have laying around but if the plastics need to be refreshed you came to mind. lol

 

[theesotericone]

Sorry if I missed the specs on it, but with your duel case, are you changing to a manual as well or keeping it an automatic? I'm asking because when it's assembled on the floor, that looks like a manual stick. :noidea::noidea:

It's staying as an auto. The front stick is the shift lever for the crawlbox. You get hi/lo from the front stick. Hi/lo from the drivers side rear stick and 2wd/4wd from the passengers side rear stick.

A lot of guys run triple sticks on the front stick location. I decided to keep them old school and run a single for the crawlbox and twins for the rear.

 

[Vansnxtweek]

What an awesome thread. I guess its prob. because I sat here and read the whole thing but it sure seems like you went from "2 cases one day" to 2 cases today real quick! I had to do some research on this whole thing, I keep seeing it pop up. I figured it was to get an extreme low range but had no idea how it worked. I have to ask, when would you want to be in 2 low?

Be careful when grinding man, I've had some scares while I was building my bobber. A face shield may look goofy but you best believe this dude will have one on when grinding.

Excited to see more progress....and 3 shifters!

 

[theesotericone]

I have to ask, when would you want to be in 2 low?

There's a few cases you want to be in 2 lo. One is just cause you can. The real reason is sometimes when wheeling you'll get pinned on an obstacle. If you engage 2lo and the rear locker you can often slide the rig to a better line. Then you re-engage 4-lo and the front locker and carry on.

The inverse is also true. Sometimes on hard obstacles you want to be front wheel drive only. This is usually in really off camber situations. With 4x engaged the rears will push and end up going further down the hill. With just the fronts engaged the rear stays put and the a locked front can drive you out.

You can get a rear disconnect that allows that to happen but it won't fit in our rigs without removing the stock gas tank. The other option is to pony up for an Atlas 4. I couldn't justify putting an Atlas 4 in my wifes DD so I went with the cheaper option of dual cases without a rear disconnect. When I build my trailer queen it will have either an Atlas 4 or a Hero.

The goal of this rig is a DD that can also drive to the trail head and still crush most hard trials. The trailer queen will have one goal. To do any trail without fear. That comes at the cost of tons of work, tons of money, and a non-highway rating.

 

[theesotericone]

The correct coupling just showed up.

This also showed up.

Of course I have almost no free time until Saturday. lol

 

[Road Bull]

The correct coupling just showed up.


This also showed up.


Of course I have almost no free time until Saturday. lol

What are you talking about "no free time"?!? You don't need all that sleep! Cat naps. Cat naps. Get yerself a rack of Redbull and make it happen! LOL:dance:

Man, this has been a long time coming. I bet you can't wait to get this all sorted out. Talk about frustrating... Just remind yourself how bad ass your 4Runner will be when you get it all sorted though. Is there any extended break-in period for all the new gear? I keep waiting for the update saying that it done. This is a true blood, sweat, and tears project.

I imagine that you have been spending some quality time in the Tacoma though. How is that thing treating you?

 

[Vansnxtweek]

There's a few cases you want to be in 2 lo. One is just cause you can. The real reason is sometimes when wheeling you'll get pinned on an obstacle. If you engage 2lo and the rear locker you can often slide the rig to a better line. Then you re-engage 4-lo and the front locker and carry on.

The inverse is also true. Sometimes on hard obstacles you want to be front wheel drive only. This is usually in really off camber situations. With 4x engaged the rears will push and end up going further down the hill. With just the fronts engaged the rear stays put and the a locked front can drive you out.

You can get a rear disconnect that allows that to happen but it won't fit in our rigs without removing the stock gas tank. The other option is to pony up for an Atlas 4. I couldn't justify putting an Atlas 4 in my wifes DD so I went with the cheaper option of dual cases without a rear disconnect. When I build my trailer queen it will have either an Atlas 4 or a Hero.

The goal of this rig is a DD that can also drive to the trail head and still crush most hard trials. The trailer queen will have one goal. To do any trail without fear. That comes at the cost of tons of work, tons of money, and a non-highway rating.

That's awesome! I never thought about it like that but that really increases your versatility towards making it through different difficult obstacles. I can certainly see the sliding to another line being a great option. Because you can is always good enough for me on its own. Looks like some good stuff came!

 

[Quantumkiwi]

How do you like running 33's without a supercharger? Seems like every other guy here running large tires is doing it with a supercharger. Kinda makes me a bit hesitant to put larger wheels on my truck, since I can't even find a supercharger in my area.

 

[psraff]

How do you like running 33's without a supercharger? Seems like every other guy here running large tires is doing it with a supercharger. Kinda makes me a bit hesitant to put larger wheels on my truck, since I can't even find a supercharger in my area.

33s are fine. Whether you have 4.10 or 4.30 (e-locker) gears people run 33s all the time. There were a few who even had 35s for a while on stock gearing before they regeared.

But with that being said, where do you live? Lots of hills and mountains, it will be harder. More flat country, you will be fine. Even more so if you run something like a 255/85-16. I ran those for 3 years with stock 4.30 gears.

Also, are you a manual or an auto? That can make a difference as well.

 

[Quantumkiwi]

33s are fine. Whether you have 4.10 or 4.30 (e-locker) gears people run 33s all the time. There were a few who even had 35s for a while on stock gearing before they regeared.

But with that being said, where do you live? Lots of hills and mountains, it will be harder. More flat country, you will be fine. Even more so if you run something like a 255/85-16. I ran those for 3 years with stock 4.30 gears.

Also, are you a manual or an auto? That can make a difference as well.

Seems like the best solution is to regear. I'm just trying to get a list of which things I should and in what order before I start my build in earnest.

I'm up in the mountains of NM (at around 7k feet). How does the manual make a difference? I have an auto, but have been thinking about doing a manual swap at some point in the distant future.

 

[psraff]

Seems like the best solution is to regear. I'm just trying to get a list of which things I should and in what order before I start my build in earnest.

I'm up in the mountains of NM (at around 7k feet). How does the manual make a difference? I have an auto, but have been thinking about doing a manual swap at some point in the distant future.

It would be better for you to take this and start a new thread. That way we aren't high jacking [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] thread.

There's tons of info on this forum. Work the Search and you can learn tons. But kuddos for asking questions and doing the research.

 

[rkntoy]

How do you like running 33's without a supercharger? Seems like every other guy here running large tires is doing it with a supercharger. Kinda makes me a bit hesitant to put larger wheels on my truck, since I can't even find a supercharger in my area.

Agree with [MENTION=28808]psraff[/MENTION] - lots of good info on here to clear up your thoughts. Then start a question thread on what is left over after searching around.

Alternate search works best - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...te-search-toyota-4runner-3rd-gen-section.html

I usually just type in to Google "3rd gen 4runner __________________" and generally answers from this forum pop up first.

And I don't even have a 6 cylinder.

 

[theesotericone]

What are you talking about "no free time"?!? You don't need all that sleep! Cat naps. Cat naps. Get yerself a rack of Redbull and make it happen! LOL:dance:

Man, this has been a long time coming. I bet you can't wait to get this all sorted out. Talk about frustrating... Just remind yourself how bad ass your 4Runner will be when you get it all sorted though. Is there any extended break-in period for all the new gear? I keep waiting for the update saying that it done. This is a true blood, sweat, and tears project.

I imagine that you have been spending some quality time in the Tacoma though. How is that thing treating you?

I've just resigned myself to the fact that people screw up and delays happen. As long as the wife is cool with it being down for an extra week at minimum it's fine. The good news is most of the hard part is done. Every time I go into the garage I can't help but stop and spin the flanges on the t-case and shift it 5 times. Lo/lo is SLOWWWWWW. lol

The Taco is a dedicated DD currently. I've done nothing to is since my last post about replacing the rear shocks other then get tires and drive it. It's sitting at just under 337,000 miles right now. So about 5000 miles on it since I purchased it. It's do for an oil change but the oil is still really clean. It's only burnt a 1/2 quart in those 5000 miles which is actually better then my rig. The rig goes though 1 quart every 5000. It's a solid little truck that is just fine to drive with the 5 speed.

How do you like running 33's without a supercharger? Seems like every other guy here running large tires is doing it with a supercharger. Kinda makes me a bit hesitant to put larger wheels on my truck, since I can't even find a supercharger in my area.

I have no issue not having a super charger and don't have any plans to add one. Driving a heavy rig with stock 4.10's and 33's sucked ass. That's why I decided to go 5.29's on my re-gear. It's got better then stock off the line and mid-range now. Lot's of guys warned against 5.29's and 33's for a DD. I'm glad I went with my gut. I'd put my rig up against a similar built supercharged rig with stock gears any day. I don't know how would win but it would be fun to try.

It would be better for you to take this and start a new thread. That way we aren't high jacking [MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] thread.

There's tons of info on this forum. Work the Search and you can learn tons. But kuddos for asking questions and doing the research.

Agree with [MENTION=28808]psraff[/MENTION] - lots of good info on here to clear up your thoughts. Then start a question thread on what is left over after searching around.

Alternate search works best - http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...te-search-toyota-4runner-3rd-gen-section.html

I usually just type in to Google "3rd gen 4runner __________________" and generally answers from this forum pop up first.

And I don't even have a 6 cylinder.

Thanks guys but I really don't mind OT in my thread. It is partially a bullshit thread after all. That being said the info I posted above will be hard to find for anyone in the future. Where as a SC vs Re-gear titled thread would be easy to find and have far more people replying.
[MENTION=135317]rkntoy[/MENTION]

Quick questions for you since your also running a TG dual case. Did you RTV the trans to t-case coupling on both sides? Do you have any leaks on your dual case? And how cool is lo/lo. lol

 

[rkntoy]

Quick questions for you since your also running a TG dual case. Did you RTV the trans to t-case coupling on both sides? Do you have any leaks on your dual case? And how cool is lo/lo. lol

I used the Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker instead of RVT Gray - https://www.permatex.com/products/g...nge-sealants/permatex-anaerobic-gasket-maker/

No leaks...

And I love lo/lo

 

[theesotericone]

I used the Permatex Anaerobic Gasket Maker instead of RVT Gray - https://www.permatex.com/products/g...nge-sealants/permatex-anaerobic-gasket-maker/

No leaks...

And I love lo/lo

Good to hear about the leaks. I'll try and source some of the anaeorobic stuff locally but I doubt I'll find it. My initial plan was lots of Black Ultra. That's what I'll most likely end up using. It's pretty tough stuff and with enough of it in there I'm sure it'll hold.

Saturday will be install day. Not much left to do other then RTV the coupling, install the tailhousing, dry fit dual, install dual. I can install the crossmembers and figure out the rear case mount points while I wait for shafts to be made and shipped. Based on your thread I decided to not bother with the TG crossmember. I'll use the skids I already have. At least that's the plan. lol

 

[S1996R]

You can use the permatex right stuff. Easy to find and works great.

 

[rkntoy]

I would use the ultra gray if you can find it. It is formulated for rigid, high vibration interfaces.

And I am going to yank my TG skid as soon as I have an opening in my project list and put in a Front Range setup.

Sent from my SM-G930R4 using Tapatalk

 

[theesotericone]

And I am going to yank my TG skid as soon as I have an opening in my project list and put in a Front Range setup.

I know a lot of guys run the collar tie cross member. Don't do it. It will break at the top. When I first talked to Yotamasters and then Rock Solid they both advised against going that route. Besides Marlin, those are the two top shops for doing this type of work. When both advised against the collar tie for the same exact reason I nixed it.

Since you already have the TG and it's working hold out a bit. Give me some time to come up with my idea of using Savage skids to mount to, It will only be supported when the skids are in place but how often do you use lo with the skids off?