TheRustyRunner Build Thread

TheHennDoggg

New member
Hey t4r.org, I have been using this site for awhile now and it's helped me out a lot, so I've decided to start a build thread with hopes of helping (and receiving some more help :high5: ) from others!

Info:

2003 Limited V8 4WD 200k miles
265/70/17 Terra Grapplers
17x8 American Racing ATX 188 wheels
OME 885 front, Superflex standard duty springs rear
SPC Upper Control Arms
All energy suspension poly bushings in front
SPC Alignment cams
Self-made rear swingout and rear crossmember replacement
4xinnovations Sliders
FJ Cruiser swaybar
5100's
Toytec 1 inch body lift
CB Radio and Dual amp'd stereo w/ sound deadening
Retrofitted a stock set of headlights with the ACME H1 kit and Panamera 2.0 shrouds
Completed the evap core replacement (eugh)
8.2 E-locker swap from junkyard FJ (brakes, ss brake lines and custom wiring harness)
GMRS Radio (MTX275)
Windshield washer reservoir relocate
V8 weight distributing hitch
5th gen brake swap

Currently working on:
Fitting 35's
Frame hole patch

I'd be happy to answer questions if you have them!

Here are some pics of how she sits today:
 

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Looking good man! Really like those off-road bumpers. Debating which one I want to put on mine. Which of the traction boards are you running?
 
Looks great, I have the same shrouds, but they're not wired up yet. Did you just tap into a fuse?

I T-Spliced my marker lamp with the orange wire of the switchback so that they would turn on with the headlights.

Later, I am going to tap orange into the turn signal/DRL's and have the white side go to headlight positive so it turns white with headlight and orange with marker.
 
Got a few things done this week:

  • Cut the bumper more clean around the rear tire carrier and added some plastic edging to make it look better
  • Checked to see what pulleys were making noise. 3 are: the alternator, tensioner pulley and the small idler pulley at the top of the engine. All are original 2003 and have 200k miles on them. The alternator is very difficult to turn
  • Flushed the burnt to hell power steering with some Valvoline ATF. Pic shows the flush from left to right
  • Got a new tensioner pulley and alternator
  • Finished welding the Coastal Offroad bumper and I am so happy with it!!
  • Also finally got brake lines for the 8.2 axle, rotors are on the way
 

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Added lights and completed the independent fog light mod with [MENTION=296097]That_Titanium_4RNR[/MENTION] 's help! Here's a few beauty shots I took with my buddy's lifted Rav4 @rav4explore.
 

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6/3/2020 Update

Finished some mods since the last time I updated this:

Completed the 8.2 swap on 3/28/2020

Thread: https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3464153-post22.html

I have yet to wire the locker due to laziness. Need to get it done before the first trip of the summer

Got my halos to "switchback" between my headlights and blinkers, so they turn white with my white headlights and amber with running lights and blinkers

Relocated my windshield washer reservoir

Painted the back of my bumper and the front of the body black, it stood out earlier because it was silver/unpainted

Installed a GMRS radio (MTX 275) next to the CB to have a better communication option with my friends

Modified a v8 hitch from @That_Titanium_4runner to work with the rear tire carrier I made
 

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5th Gen Brake Swap

Hey guys, just completed the 5th gen brake swap. I used the Power Stop kit from RockAuto and it was a success, very easy! I had to cut a TON of the dust shield and the brakes are way bigger, so something tells me I didn't have the "sport brakes" even though mine was a limited.

Pedal feel is still kinda squishy but it stops well. I need to figure out how to bleed this thing, it is a pain in the ass. Excited that another step towards 35's is complete
 

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Finished wiring my locker on June 9th, surprisingly easy process and looks pretty clean! I used the rearmost body mount grommet and ran it from the very back to the front. The locker needs to move a few feet before it locks in, but that seems pretty normal. I might add a "safety" switch to make sure I cant accidentally activate it with my knee.

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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Took a trip to NC-105 and Brown mountain with a lot of my buddies. The locker wasn’t needed, but it still works! Loved seeing the rav4s keep pace with the bigger Toyotas.


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$212..... for the whole rear axle and elocker?!


Yes! At LKQ as long as you pick the part off the vehicle yourself, a rear axle “drum to drum” (which includes the diff) is $200. A locker doesn’t add to that, fortunately. I think the sway bar made it a little more than the online price.

Now, if you go to the already picked stuff on the LKQ website those axles and lockers will be up in the $1000 - $2000 range!

Here’s some pics of us tearing it out of the FJ. Oddly enough, it was a 2wd automatic with a locker, which I didn’t even know existed. Got lucky because if it was a manual I would have had to regear it.



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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I haven’t been updating this build thread as much as I really should been, so I’m gonna post some projects I’ve done in the past and haven’t really documented on here!

I created a swing out tire carrier for around $250. I made it out of:

2 inch square tubing 1/8in thick

A Destaco 344 Latch: DE-STA-CO 344 Pull Action Latch Clamp DE-STA-CO 344 Pull Action Latch Clamp: Toggle Clamps: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

4x Innovations Locking Hinge: Swing Out Tire Carrier Hinge Assembly

4x Innovations tire carrier hub: Tire Carrier Wheel Mount Plate and Support Gusset

I first had to replace my rear crossmember due to rust. I found a 4th gen in the junkyard and cut the crossmember off for $30. I painted it silver with the intention of having it exposed later, and welded it on. This was challenging because I’m a novice welder and the metal seemed so thin, but two nights of welding and grinding had some great results!


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I was in my final year of college studying engineering, so I had access to SolidWorks to help design the swing before putting it together. Two things I looked out for were that the tire wouldn’t block the brake light if I had 35s and the hatch could open even with 0 offset wheels. I modeled the rear crossmember so that I would know exactly how long the swing arm could possibly be


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This model really sped up the process of figuring out what angles to cut all the square tubes at. It also helped me realize I couldn’t have a Jerry can holder because the swing was too short; it would have hit the hatch.

Next, me and my buddy welded it together over a few nights during school.


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I haven’t updated it since we built it, but next I plan to bedline it and slightly alter the angle of the tire so that it clears the hatch better when I get big tires. I tested it with a 33 and it didn’t hit, but I fear a 35 will not be the same story


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