Thinking of running 35"s, Need advice on swapping susp. or BL(Picture Inside)

[ar1five]

I have trd tundra coils/blis with top plate spacer in front, with 890s 5100s in the rear. I love the lift & ride, its just not high enough for me.. I reall want to run 35's the next time I buy tires. I have read that it is ideal to regear when running 35"s

Can I fit 35"s with a 3" susp lift and 1 1/5 or 2" bl? Or would I need to get a bigger susp. lift along with a bl...

 

[JWaldz]

3" suspension and 2" body is a good start. 1" or 1.5" is doable. You'll still need to pound down the pinch weld in the fender well regardless. Depending on your wheels and backspace will determine how much you're gonna have to pound down. Yes regearing is ideal, 4.88s are general all around best but 5.29s are nice if you're not on the highway a lot.

 

[PitbullRescuer]

That's not tall enough for you? LOL

 

[ar1five]

That's not tall enough for you? LOL

I should have clarified. The first pic is w/35's and the second is my runner on 33's

 

[ryankmasuda]

I have a full 3" more than stock with a 2" body lift with no rubbing, However off-road is a different story. Trimming pinch welds and inner fenders is a must. I compared my before lift and after lift measurements to obtain my actual lift height. I wouldn't instal a body lift over 2 inches. In the rear I'm running LX450 coils in the rear with no spare tire and after market bumper along with Tacoma 5100's on the second perch with Toytech 3" lift coils with a stock bumper.

 

[ryankmasuda]

3" suspension and 2" body is a good start. 1" or 1.5" is doable. You'll still need to pound down the pinch weld in the fender well regardless. Depending on your wheels and backspace will determine how much you're gonna have to pound down. Yes regearing is ideal, 4.88s are general all around best but 5.29s are nice if you're not on the highway a lot.

From what I've read and heard 4.88's are good if you have a manual transmission however if you have an automatic 5.29's are best. A lot of guys running 4.88's with 35's and auto tranny don't see much of a difference.

This is all based on reading and listening to guys running 35's on Tacoma's and 4runner's. I personally haven't installed gears yet but will be doing so in the next couple weeks. I'll be doing 5.29's. At this point I'm debating Trail Gear or Yukon's.

 

[4ever4running]

I am in the exact same situation. Subscribed for future reference. BTW ar1five do you have any idea what lift the the guy in the first pic you posted is running?

 

[J-money$$$]

I would guess some sort of tall body lift. The gap on the sweet bling bling skid up front and the fact that you can see so much frame down the side. 2" to 3" body lift with the suspension.

You can fit 35's with just a lift, but you will need to tub your firewall. the body lifts will let you avoid that and a hammer will be all you need.

I have around 2" of lift and 1" body lift and fit 35's no problem

 

[JWaldz]

From what I've read and heard 4.88's are good if you have a manual transmission however if you have an automatic 5.29's are best. A lot of guys running 4.88's with 35's and auto tranny don't see much of a difference.

This is all based on reading and listening to guys running 35's on Tacoma's and 4runner's. I personally haven't installed gears yet but will be doing so in the next couple weeks. I'll be doing 5.29's. At this point I'm debating Trail Gear or Yukon's.

I've noticed much more response with my 4.88s, and it's not just about on-road manners. The response off-road is much more noticeable. This is comparing to the 35's on 4.30s of course. If I didn't drive 30+ miles every day on the highway I would have gone to 5.29s. However, I don't feel like doing 3k while only going 60mph on the interstate....every day.(guesstimate). 4.88's are a good average level for 35s even for automatic but if you TRULY want to see a big difference and aren't worried about the interstate get 5.29s.

By the way, on brand choice.. You should definitely go with Nitro gears!

To the OP, there are people who have ran 35's with 3" and no body lift but it requires a lot of cutting, grinding, and welding. Most people don't like to do that though. If you're not scared to grind, hammer, saw- zaw etc etc go for it, if not do a 1" or 2" body lift and minimize that step.

 

[J-money$$$]

By the way, on brand choice.. You should definitely go with Nitro gears!

Nitro, yukon, this or that blah blah

They are all fine but stay away from the USA gears

 

[ar1five]

I am in the exact same situation. Subscribed for future reference. BTW ar1five do you have any idea what lift the the guy in the first pic you posted is running?

He has the toytec complete coilovers with a 2" body lift.

Link- http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3911516/2002-toyota-4runner-sr5-sport-utility-4d

 

[ar1five]

I have a full 3" more than stock with a 2" body lift with no rubbing, However off-road is a different story. Trimming pinch welds and inner fenders is a must. I compared my before lift and after lift measurements to obtain my actual lift height. I wouldn't instal a body lift over 2 inches. In the rear I'm running LX450 coils in the rear with no spare tire and after market bumper along with Tacoma 5100's on the second perch with Toytech 3" lift coils with a stock bumper.

Do my TRD coils blue/yellow have perch settings?? And in the front your running what now??

 

[4ever4running]

He has the toytec complete coilovers with a 2" body lift.

Link- http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3911516/2002-toyota-4runner-sr5-sport-utility-4d

Cool thanks! His truck just looks so much taller than mine and technically he only has 1/2" more lift...I think the biggest difference is the type of suspension lift he has...

I have spacers in the front and regular duty coils in the back, but a while back I towed a completely full Uhaul trailer cross-country on a 3 day road trip and I am pretty sure that I killed all my coils because it isn't sitting as high as it used to. So when I move up to 35's, the plan is to replace the coils in the front and rear with OME heavy duties (in anticipation of getting a Shrockworks front bumper, winch, and CBI rear bumper with the tire carrier). Hopefully that will give me enough clearance to run 35's.

Another thing that is hurting my clearance is my wheels. After I bought the wheels and got the tire installed, I noticed that I have a decent abount of clearance between the tires and the upper A-arms which means that my tires stick out past the fender further and makes is more difficult to clear bigger tires. My wheels have 3.75" of backspacing and -19mm offset. When the time comes I want to run 35X12.5's, does anyone know what the "perfect" amount of backspacing/offset is if I want to just clear the upper A-arms when the tires are aired down? I want to bring them in as close to the body as possible to help combat the clearance issues.

 

[JWaldz]

The reason why his looks so much taller is cus of the extra 1/2 he's got over you and the extra 2" gc from the 35s, compared to 33s.

 

[J-money$$$]

Cool thanks! His truck just looks so much taller than mine and technically he only has 1/2" more lift...I think the biggest difference is the type of suspension lift he has...

I have spacers in the front and regular duty coils in the back, but a while back I towed a completely full Uhaul trailer cross-country on a 3 day road trip and I am pretty sure that I killed all my coils because it isn't sitting as high as it used to. So when I move up to 35's, the plan is to replace the coils in the front and rear with OME heavy duties (in anticipation of getting a Shrockworks front bumper, winch, and CBI rear bumper with the tire carrier). Hopefully that will give me enough clearance to run 35's.

Another thing that is hurting my clearance is my wheels. After I bought the wheels and got the tire installed, I noticed that I have a decent abount of clearance between the tires and the upper A-arms which means that my tires stick out past the fender further and makes is more difficult to clear bigger tires. My wheels have 3.75" of backspacing and -19mm offset. When the time comes I want to run 35X12.5's, does anyone know what the "perfect" amount of backspacing/offset is if I want to just clear the upper A-arms when the tires are aired down? I want to bring them in as close to the body as possible to help combat the clearance issues.

3.5" back spacing. and trimmed a arms

 

[FrankM23]

i thought you can effective clear the a-arms with 3.5 backspaced wheels and no trimming of the arm?