third gen rear end waggle finally solved at least for me

[Johnnie]

I've been fighting this problem for a year and a half, and mostly lived with it. replaced shocks , struts, balljoints, control arms front and back, some I'm sure were worn out some not so sure. I thought there was literally nothing left to try. I crawled under the back of the runner and started moving and wiggling for the umpteenth time. the Panard rod had a little back and forth but not from the bushings. I pulled it off and analyzed everything including mounting hardware.
there was some play between mounting bolts and steel bushing inside the rubber in the panard rod bushing and also play between mounting bolts and brackets on frame and differential. there couldnt be zero play from the factory but what was it supposed to be??? I have a 270K runner thats got to be looser than original right?? I measured everything and found I could easily drill the mounting holes and panard rod bushing opening to 1/2 inch. I bought 2 grade 8 bolts and nuts with thin washer to go between brackets and panard rod bushings to take almost all play out of the panard rod mounting. tighter than stock new?? probably but the result is the runner drives like never before while I owned it, it always got worse at high speeds and bumpy roads . not now 90mph and tracks perfectly no wobble and steering has never been more precise and stable. Note: I couldnt run a drill bit through the panard rod bushings it was too close for the bit to cut its way through. I bought some cheap stones for my dremel and patiently opened it up until the 1/2 bolts went through with a few thousandths to spare. It worked for me I hope this might help some others out there

 

[Horsethief]

I've been fighting this problem for a year and a half, and mostly lived with it. replaced shocks , struts, balljoints, control arms front and back, some I'm sure were worn out some not so sure. I thought there was literally nothing left to try. I crawled under the back of the runner and started moving and wiggling for the umpteenth time. the Panard rod had a little back and forth but not from the bushings. I pulled it off and analyzed everything including mounting hardware.
there was some play between mounting bolts and steel bushing inside the rubber in the panard rod bushing and also play between mounting bolts and brackets on frame and differential. there couldnt be zero play from the factory but what was it supposed to be??? I have a 270K runner thats got to be looser than original right?? I measured everything and found I could easily drill the mounting holes and panard rod bushing opening to 1/2 inch. I bought 2 grade 8 bolts and nuts with thin washer to go between brackets and panard rod bushings to take almost all play out of the panard rod mounting. tighter than stock new?? probably but the result is the runner drives like never before while I owned it, it always got worse at high speeds and bumpy roads . not now 90mph and tracks perfectly no wobble and steering has never been more precise and stable. Note: I couldnt run a drill bit through the panard rod bushings it was too close for the bit to cut its way through. I bought some cheap stones for my dremel and patiently opened it up until the 1/2 bolts went through with a few thousandths to spare. It worked for me I hope this might help some others out there

Nice.

I had the same problem, and the same fix, on my old Grand Cherokee. Play in the track bar definitely makes for some spooky handling (especially when it's in the FRONT, as I also had happen on the Jeep).

I just replaced mine, as I wanted a beefier adjustable one, but drilling for larger bolts is a great low buck solution.

 

[AntleredRuin]

:worthless

 

[Tyler James Inc]

Are you lifted at all? If so, you'll still have rear end wiggle if your panhard isn't parallel.
Panhard correction brackets from [MENTION=28464]eimkeith[/MENTION] work a miracle on 3rd gens.

 

[Johnnie]

no stock height

 

[T4R2014]

I wonder how this will wear over time compared to replacing bushings.

 

[Johnnie]

the bushings were replaced, (new lower control arms) it was the space between the brackets and the bolts and also the space between the steel insert inside of the bushings and the bolts. the steel insert is bonded to the rubber bushings

 

[Sean K.]

What did your sway bar bushings look like? You mention "waggle" in the rear end, but didn't mention anything about looking over the sway bar.

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

my 4Runner was all over the place, adjust the throttle and the entire rear end of the truck would sway back and forth. Long turns would have easily been a disaster. Scarier than anything I've experienced in my 4Runner.

Then I got a job working for Energy Suspension, who just happens to make just about every 4Runner bushing you can get, so I installed some of their polyurethane bushings back there... to say it's stable now is quite the understatement. I still haven't even done the panhard bushings (OEM bushings are absolutely shot) and the rear sway is gone - rides rock solid.

If you're looking for a solid ride and don't want to change to new/used arms, do just the bushings, Energy part # 8.3133 for the rear arms and 8.7106 for the track bar, it's worth it!

 

[Johnnie]

I had already replaced sway bar bushings and upper and lower control arms

 

[19963.4lsr5]

If you're looking for a solid ride and don't want to change to new/used arms, do just the bushings, Energy part # 8.3133 for the rear arms and 8.7106 for the track bar, it's worth it!

so both holes in the rear upper and lower control arms use the same bushing #8.3133?

Edit. It looks like the part numbers are different for the 96 and 97. (Maybe 98 too).
Rear Lower W63378
Rear upper W63379


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[spartacus]

my 4Runner was all over the place, adjust the throttle and the entire rear end of the truck would sway back and forth. Long turns would have easily been a disaster. Scarier than anything I've experienced in my 4Runner.

Then I got a job working for Energy Suspension, who just happens to make just about every 4Runner bushing you can get, so I installed some of their polyurethane bushings back there... to say it's stable now is quite the understatement. I still haven't even done the panhard bushings (OEM bushings are absolutely shot) and the rear sway is gone - rides rock solid.

If you're looking for a solid ride and don't want to change to new/used arms, do just the bushings, Energy part # 8.3133 for the rear arms and 8.7106 for the track bar, it's worth it!

I agree 100%. bushings are often one of the neglected components. i did the whole body for the first time back in 2012 and liked the improvement in ride quality that I do it every few years it just makes the truck feel more solid.for a couple hundred bucks. .

 

[ChildrenOfBodom]

so both holes in the rear upper and lower control arms use the same bushing #8.3133?

Edit. It looks like the part numbers are different for the 96 and 97. (Maybe 98 too).
Rear Lower W63378
Rear upper W63379


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Those are Whiteline brand part numbers you've listed. No idea why they offer two numbers.

Energy Suspension 8.3133 fits all 96-02 rear control arms on 4WD's.


See here for my install: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2873372-post1421.html

 

[19963.4lsr5]

Those are Whiteline brand part numbers you've listed. No idea why they offer two numbers.

Energy Suspension 8.3133 fits all 96-02 rear control arms on 4WD's.


See here for my install: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/2873372-post1421.html

Man, that's weird cause I swear I was on energy suspensions website. I selected my make, model, and year and that is what they gave me for part numbers. The rear track bar PN was the same as you posted.


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[ChildrenOfBodom]

Man, that's weird cause I swear I was on energy suspensions website. I selected my make, model, and year and that is what they gave me for part numbers. The rear track bar PN was the same as you posted.


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You were on energysuspensionparts.com, which is actually a company called Diverse Suspension Technologies. Read the fine print below the logo, "An independent dealer of the Energy Suspension brand." Energy's website is energysuspension.com.

DST likes to rip off people's company names and use them in their URL's. I get calls every day from people who are confused. They're not the manufacturer, they're just a distributor. The worst part is, you'll find part numbers from other manufacturers on their site.

Some of DST's other website gems:

prothanesuspensionparts.com
moogsuspensionparts.com
suspension.com
energysuspensionparts.com
aftermarketsuspensionparts.com

It goes on and on....

 

[19963.4lsr5]

You were on energysuspensionparts.com, which is actually a company called Diverse Suspension Technologies. Read the fine print below the logo, "An independent dealer of the Energy Suspension brand." Energy's website is energysuspension.com.

DST likes to rip off people's company names and use them in their URL's. I get calls every day from people who are confused. They're not the manufacturer, they're just a distributor. The worst part is, you'll find part numbers from other manufacturers on their site.

Some of DST's other website gems:

prothanesuspensionparts.com
moogsuspensionparts.com
suspension.com
energysuspensionparts.com
aftermarketsuspensionparts.com

It goes on and on....

Thanks. It's time to rebuild the rear suspension on the 97 puppy hauler to see what it takes to get rid of the pothole rear end deflection.


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