Third row seat removal to access rear panel pocket, subwoofer install

[97BlackAckCL]

The 86150-0W120 indicates that it's for vehicles produced 08/2013-04/2017
The 86150-35080 indicates that it's for vehicles produced 05/2017-08/2019

I was reading on another thread that some guy used the 86150-35080 for his 2014 4runner and it worked perfectly. Bolted in and everything.

Do you have any insight on this? Price difference between these 2 part number is several hundred dollars.

Thank you in advance!

The cheaper price is just the enclosure which is the part number I provided, the more expensive one I believe is the enclosure with the stock sub which you don't need.

 

[Nodents2017]

The cheaper price is just the enclosure which is the part number I provided, the more expensive one I believe is the enclosure with the stock sub which you don't need.

I just did this mod and had a few questions.

1: Did you use a remote turn on signal to turn on your amp? If so, do you get a pop from the subwoofer when you turn off the car? I’m using an amp that has a DC offset feature that will turn the amp on and off when a high level input is detected from the speaker signals. Wondering if that is what is causing my issue.

2: How is the subwoofer mounted into the enclosure holding up? I used some #8 screws to screw the subwoofer to the enclosure but the plastic of the enclosure seems pretty soft and wasn’t able to get it fastened down too tight. I did use some butyl tape to seal the subwoofer which is pretty tacky so it’s holding up for now but pretty sure I stripped a few of the screws when I screwed them down into the plastic.


I’m still making some fine adjustments but overall I’m very happy with this setup considering I’m about 700 dollars all into it. Compared to the OEM audio system which would be at least twice that, I think it was worth it if keeping all of your storage space is a priority like it was for me.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

I just did this mod and had a few questions.

1: Did you use a remote turn on signal to turn on your amp? If so, do you get a pop from the subwoofer when you turn off the car? I’m using an amp that has a DC offset feature that will turn the amp on and off when a high level input is detected from the speaker signals. Wondering if that is what is causing my issue.

Yes I used an adapter off of the stock head unit that had a remote wire included, I never got a pop but I bet the high level input is causing your issue.

2: How is the subwoofer mounted into the enclosure holding up? I used some #8 screws to screw the subwoofer to the enclosure but the plastic of the enclosure seems pretty soft and wasn’t able to get it fastened down too tight. I did use some butyl tape to seal the subwoofer which is pretty tacky so it’s holding up for now but pretty sure I stripped a few of the screws when I screwed them down into the plastic.

Subwoofer is holding up great, I haven't noticed any loosening or rattling from the sub, but I screwed it down pretty strong to ensure it would not come loose.

I’m still making some fine adjustments but overall I’m very happy with this setup considering I’m about 700 dollars all into it. Compared to the OEM audio system which would be at least twice that, I think it was worth it if keeping all of your storage space is a priority like it was for me.

Glad to hear that you are enjoying the mod, I did this in my 4th gen and my 5th gen and have helped a number of people go this route so I'm happy to hear when people have success getting this added. Let me know if you have additional questions, I'm always happy to help

 

[Nodents2017]

Yes I used an adapter off of the stock head unit that had a remote wire included, I never got a pop but I bet the high level input is causing your issue.



Subwoofer is holding up great, I haven't noticed any loosening or rattling from the sub, but I screwed it down pretty strong to ensure it would not come loose.

Glad to hear that you are enjoying the mod, I did this in my 4th gen and my 5th gen and have helped a number of people go this route so I'm happy to hear when people have success getting this added. Let me know if you have additional questions, I'm always happy to help

So I added a remote turn on wire to turn in the amp rather than using the DC offset on the high level inputs and it’ll that got rid of the pop I was experiencing when turning the car off. I think the head unit was turning off and cutting the signal to the amp abruptly before the amp was able to shut down. Thanks for the feedback!