Tie rod ends and upper control arms stuck

[Cwm]

I got the Rough Country 3" lift for my truck and am in the process of breaking down the truck to install. Both sides tie rods are stuck solid and am afraid to use the hammer removal method anymore. Also stuck and not releasing is the upper control arms, both sides.
Should i just continue to pound (not the actual threaded bolt portions) like all the videos show or is thrre something im missing here?
PS: I know rough country is a highly unpopular lift, but its what i could afford and what ive got. Please lets stick with whats in the title! Thanks.

 

[IsaiahC]

I got the Rough Country 3" lift for my truck and am in the process of breaking down the truck to install. Both sides tie rods are stuck solid and am afraid to use the hammer removal method anymore. Also stuck and not releasing is the upper control arms, both sides.
Should i just continue to pound (not the actual threaded bolt portions) like all the videos show or is thrre something im missing here?
PS: I know rough country is a highly unpopular lift, but its what i could afford and what ive got. Please lets stick with whats in the title! Thanks.

Not sure what you're talking about with the upper control arm. You shouldn't need to take off the upper ball joint or upper control arm to install a lift.
For the tie rod, use on of these guys. Autozone has them to rent for free. When they look up tie rod ends, it'll pop up as one of their tools. Another option is to thread the nut upside down and hit them with a mallet but I wouldn't recommend that for the tie rod end.

 

[Cwm]

These are the instrustions that came with the kit. #s 3 and 7 are specifically the ones that are stuck.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

I got the Rough Country 3" lift for my truck and am in the process of breaking down the truck to install. Both sides tie rods are stuck solid and am afraid to use the hammer removal method anymore. Also stuck and not releasing is the upper control arms, both sides.
Should i just continue to pound (not the actual threaded bolt portions) like all the videos show or is thrre something im missing here?
PS: I know rough country is a highly unpopular lift, but its what i could afford and what ive got. Please lets stick with whats in the title! Thanks.

Watched the youtube video on the rough country website.

https://youtu.be/zCQNgMoSt54

There are several things in this video I didn't do when I put in my TRD Tundra/890 lift. I followed a lot of the advice on the forum. In hindsight I can understand why they disconnected the UBJ from the UCA. It allows for much easier re installation of the lower coilover bolt. I just about ruined the fine threads on that bolt trying to push it through the LCA mounts and the lower coilover eyelet. A lot of the writeups use a jack in the wheel well. While doing my LBJs I discovered that I could easily reconnect the lower coilover mount after replacing the the LBJ. I guess this would accomplish the same result as disconnecting the UBJ.
In the rear, disconnecting the rear LCA and panhard bar would have helped because my 890s were a bit of a PITA because I couldn't get enough droop to sneak the springs in. Finally just put the spring compressor I used for the front springs to get them in.

 

[Cwm]

Watched the youtube video on the rough country website.

https://youtu.be/zCQNgMoSt54

There are several things in this video I didn't do when I put in my TRD Tundra/890 lift. I followed a lot of the advice on the forum. In hindsight I can understand why they disconnected the UBJ from the UCA. It allows for much easier re installation of the lower coilover bolt. I just about ruined the fine threads on that bolt trying to push it through the LCA mounts and the lower coilover eyelet. A lot of the writeups use a jack in the wheel well. While doing my LBJs I discovered that I could easily reconnect the lower coilover mount after replacing the the LBJ. I guess this would accomplish the same result as disconnecting the UBJ.
In the rear, disconnecting the rear LCA and panhard bar would have helped because my 890s were a bit of a PITA because I couldn't get enough droop to sneak the springs in. Finally just put the spring compressor I used for the front springs to get them in.

I may give that a shot. Im going tomorrow to beg the tool posted earlier for the lower and if the upper doesnt relese easily, im just going to use a jack to spread everything apart.
If you noticed, the video is different from the instructions, and the parts i received are different than those on the instruction paper or video. Still fit , but just redesigned. Seems lazy to not update everything to be concurrent with what is being produced and sent.

 

[Cwm]

Finally finished. I rented $350 some odd worth of tools (ball joint press set, pickle fork set, ball joint puller, etc) from advance and aurozone (you get the money back of course) and not a single one worked for popping upper or lower ball joints to allow the install of the front strut.
My secret weapon: Gary. Elderly, liquored-up-for-new-years (I did this on new years eve bc the instructions said "takes two to three hours for install") neighbor that wandered by, drawn to a work light and torn apart car said "you dont need that stuff, looky here" and gave the UCA three whacks with a heavy mallet and pop! Came off like i had been attempting for going on twelve hours.
Still no clue how he hit it different in three shots than i had in three dozen, but oh well.
In trouble? Rent yourself a Gary.