Tightening up steering/handling

[WI_4Runner]

'07 Sport V8 pushing 115k miles - by my knowledge (bought used @ 80kmiles) nothing has been replaced but signs are pointing to having to do some work in the future. Lately I've been having to fight the road a bit, ruts and anything not level leave me having to constantly steer to keep it straight. Would definitely like to have a more planted feel. Also finding the vehicle to be a little loose @ higher speeds and it tends to track poorer then I'd prefer. Have searched and see the usual suspects mentioned (ball joints, tie rods, sway bars) but seeing what the community may have for advice before I start spending money replacing stuff. Beyond that, steering seems a little loose as I have to over-steer to correct.

Also worth noting is I had/have an unsolved popping noise from the front end. Used to be a loud single pop/clunk upon turning the wheels hard when I started driving, but now has calmed down into a quieter grinding/crunching noise when the front end lifts up upon acceleration or down upon braking. Thinking ball joints here?

 

[luke87gt]

I do find that the 4th Gen is a bit loose and floaty compared to other cars I've owned, particularly noticeable on the highway. A fellow 4th gen owner warned me about this while were shopping for one. My wife and I have gotten used to it and don't think twice about it anymore.


Tie rods, upper/lower control arm bushings, ball-joints, and steering rack bushings all wear over time. It can be tightened but it's just a matter of how much money and time you want to throw at it when there are no guarantees in how much improvement there will be.

The popping/clunking should be addressed first and then reassess the situation from there...

 

[gm350reratliff]

I would also check tire condition and pressures as well as alignment. I would focus on the popping, grinding noise first though.

 

[inscarguy]

I am very surprised you think the ft end is loose feeling. my 4runner is super tight anywhere I go.

tires, alignment make a huge difference on these vehicles. I got a set of XSP wheels and they had firestone destination se tires on it and the 4runner drove like crap, it felt floaty, just a lousy driving vehicle. I put new Michelins on it and it was night and day. I had the old 4runner back.

years ago I had three different shops try to do an alignment and none of them could get it right. I took it to my local dealer and it was spot on. now have them do it once a year.

this is the best thing I did, go to a good parts store and get a needle fitting for a grease gun(looks like a needle that goes in your arm). our 4runners do not have fittings on the ft ends. push the needle in the rubber boots and add grease to each joint and tie rods. this will change the way the vehicle drives as grease will break down over time. this will make everything much smoother and last longer. the fitting is like $3-5.00.

 

[milehigh05]

'07 Sport V8 pushing 115k miles - by my knowledge (bought used @ 80kmiles) nothing has been replaced but signs are pointing to having to do some work in the future. Lately I've been having to fight the road a bit, ruts and anything not level leave me having to constantly steer to keep it straight. Would definitely like to have a more planted feel. Also finding the vehicle to be a little loose @ higher speeds and it tends to track poorer then I'd prefer. Have searched and see the usual suspects mentioned (ball joints, tie rods, sway bars) but seeing what the community may have for advice before I start spending money replacing stuff. Beyond that, steering seems a little loose as I have to over-steer to correct.

Also worth noting is I had/have an unsolved popping noise from the front end. Used to be a loud single pop/clunk upon turning the wheels hard when I started driving, but now has calmed down into a quieter grinding/crunching noise when the front end lifts up upon acceleration or down upon braking. Thinking ball joints here?

Almost positive it's ball joints, I just went through that. As soon as I installed my SPC upper control arms, sound and clunking and popping, gone.

 

[WI_4Runner]

Almost positive it's ball joints, I just went through that. As soon as I installed my SPC upper control arms, sound and clunking and popping, gone.

Was this upper or lowers?

Wondering if this is also a symptom of XREAS starting to fail as there is some sway at Highway speeds. It definitely doesn't feel as planted, however I am concerned about how steering isn't as responsive as it once was as well.

 

[RonJR]

Also worth noting is I had/have an unsolved popping noise from the front end. Used to be a loud single pop/clunk upon turning the wheels hard when I started driving, but now has calmed down into a quieter grinding/crunching noise when the front end lifts up upon acceleration or down upon braking. Thinking ball joints here?

Could be a ball joint, or an LCA bushing. You need to jack it up and start prying on the wheel and suspension joints and see if anything moves. A 2x4 under the wheel while it's off the ground will expose some issues. Also grab the wheel at 6 and 12 o'clock and try to rock it. Shouldn't be any motion.

Grabbing the wheel at 9 and 3 o'clock and rocking it will expose loose steering joints. Helps if you have someone help - one looks at the tie rod ends while the other rocks the wheels. You can also leave the wheels on the ground and watch the tie rods while someone rocks the steering wheel back and forth.

If the LCA bushings are worn or loose, the alignment will be out of whack, which can certainly contribute to wandering on the highway, especially if the caster is too low.

Also, have you done a lift? That negatively affects caster and stability until you get it properly aligned.

 

[milehigh05]

Was this upper or lowers?

Wondering if this is also a symptom of XREAS starting to fail as there is some sway at Highway speeds. It definitely doesn't feel as planted, however I am concerned about how steering isn't as responsive as it once was as well.

Uppers. I have also replaced lowers with stock arms.

 

[oljedi11950]

Used to be a thread about tightening up some slack in steering column also , fairly easy fix !

 

[Bumbo]

I am very surprised you think the ft end is loose feeling. my 4runner is super tight anywhere I go.

tires, alignment make a huge difference on these vehicles. I got a set of XSP wheels and they had firestone destination se tires on it and the 4runner drove like crap, it felt floaty, just a lousy driving vehicle. I put new Michelins on it and it was night and day. I had the old 4runner back.

years ago I had three different shops try to do an alignment and none of them could get it right. I took it to my local dealer and it was spot on. now have them do it once a year.

this is the best thing I did, go to a good parts store and get a needle fitting for a grease gun(looks like a needle that goes in your arm). our 4runners do not have fittings on the ft ends. push the needle in the rubber boots and add grease to each joint and tie rods. this will change the way the vehicle drives as grease will break down over time. this will make everything much smoother and last longer. the fitting is like $3-5.00.

Not surprising... something as simple as bad bushings can cause the types of handling and tracking issues the OP is talking about so not being tight is basically a symptom... time to track it down.

That said chances are its not going to be as simple as throwing a little grease at the problem.

Tires are a possibility, but if you had wear issues being caused by something the next set is going to be toast before you know it... Even after an alignment... with something like bad bushing its going out of spec as soon as you drive off and you are back to fighting with the truck.

 

[thenuka]

Used to be a thread about tightening up some slack in steering column also , fairly easy fix !

Any chance you can find a link? Tried searching but no luck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[oljedi11950]

Goggle search " steering column Knock"

 

[techoguy]

similar issue

I have a similar issue that just started. I put on a lift with new TC UCAs, new bushings for the LCAs, and new CV axles a few weeks ago. Just a few days ago I started noticing a single clunk/pop usually when backing up with the wheel slightly turned. I haven't started really diagnosing it beyond basics.

My first thought or hope was that it's the sway bar links because the boots are cracked and probably dry. So I was going to remove it to see if that helps. But most likely it's something else because removing the sway bar is too easy

No movement that I can tell if rocking on the front wheels at 6 and 12, if I rock at 9 and 3, i see the tie rods moving back and forth a little with the wheel (both wheels were off the ground). I couldn't tell if the tie rods were moving separate from the wheel, i'll have to test some more with the wheels on the ground and see if see movement at the ball joint.

Overall it tracks pretty bad down the road too. I know it's lifted but I'm hoping to get it tighter than it is so hopefully I can figure out what's going on and I'll update this thread as well in case it helps the OP.

 

[Lolrax]

New shocks and upper control arms made mine rock solid again, tracks dead straight and is luxury tight

 

[blackoutt]

I have a similar issue that just started. I put on a lift with new TC UCAs, new bushings for the LCAs, and new CV axles a few weeks ago. Just a few days ago I started noticing a single clunk/pop usually when backing up with the wheel slightly turned. I haven't started really diagnosing it beyond basics.

My first thought or hope was that it's the sway bar links because the boots are cracked and probably dry. So I was going to remove it to see if that helps. But most likely it's something else because removing the sway bar is too easy

No movement that I can tell if rocking on the front wheels at 6 and 12, if I rock at 9 and 3, i see the tie rods moving back and forth a little with the wheel (both wheels were off the ground). I couldn't tell if the tie rods were moving separate from the wheel, i'll have to test some more with the wheels on the ground and see if see movement at the ball joint.

Overall it tracks pretty bad down the road too. I know it's lifted but I'm hoping to get it tighter than it is so hopefully I can figure out what's going on and I'll update this thread as well in case it helps the OP.

What lower bushings and bolts? I had issues with both the moog alignment bolts and the moog lower bushings. Now running OEM bolts and mevotech complete LCA's, they seem to be alright for close to 20k miles.

 

[techoguy]

What lower bushings and bolts? I had issues with both the moog alignment bolts and the moog lower bushings. Now running OEM bolts and mevotech complete LCA's, they seem to be alright for close to 20k miles.

What kind of issues did you see?
The bushings are Moog and one set of driver side caster bolts are greasable Ones from NAPA. The other side are OEM.

 

[blackoutt]

What kind of issues did you see?
The bushings are Moog and one set of driver side caster bolts are greasable Ones from NAPA. The other side are OEM.

Ohhh, yeah greaseable moog bolts with the D shaped holes in the washers, the D shapes wallowed out after 1 alignment and wouldn't hold alignment so the control arm was able to move a little bit even torqued way over factory spec. This then cupped the washers so they were junk. The OEM design is way better. Then for the bushings themselves, the rear location press wasn't tight enough, when I removed them they just fell out of the arms. The bushing sleeves were able to rotate in the arms and slide in/out slightly, this is what caused my knocking.

 

[techoguy]

Ohhh, yeah greaseable moog bolts with the D shaped holes in the washers, the D shapes wallowed out after 1 alignment and wouldn't hold alignment so the control arm was able to move a little bit even torqued way over factory spec. This then cupped the washers so they were junk. The OEM design is way better. Then for the bushings themselves, the rear location press wasn't tight enough, when I removed them they just fell out of the arms. The bushing sleeves were able to rotate in the arms and slide in/out slightly, this is what caused my knocking.

Seriously? So the new bushings and caster bolt kit could be the problem after only a couple of weeks?

I wish I would have just got new OEM LCAs to replace the bushings and ball joint but at the time I needed a quick fix

 

[07V8]

Ohhh, yeah greaseable moog bolts with the D shaped holes in the washers, the D shapes wallowed out after 1 alignment and wouldn't hold alignment so the control arm was able to move a little bit even torqued way over factory spec. This then cupped the washers so they were junk. The OEM design is way better. Then for the bushings themselves, the rear location press wasn't tight enough, when I removed them they just fell out of the arms. The bushing sleeves were able to rotate in the arms and slide in/out slightly, this is what caused my knocking.

Did you notice anything else after going back to OEM hardware aside fromm eliminating the clunk? Did steering tighten up on the road?

 

[blackoutt]

Seriously? So the new bushings and caster bolt kit could be the problem after only a couple of weeks?

I wish I would have just got new OEM LCAs to replace the bushings and ball joint but at the time I needed a quick fix

I was able to find my clunk/pop by jacking it all the way up by frame at the drivers side front wheel to make it go full droop, then set it down and jack it back up under control arm to make it full compression. I could see the LCA rear bushing jump when it "popped". And yes mine were popping from the day I installed them, more noticeable on wet days for some reason. Don't panic yet, check the parts first! I try to spread my experience as much as possible and this one sure got me good too.

Did you notice anything else after going back to OEM hardware aside fromm eliminating the clunk? Did steering tighten up on the road?

Steering has never been "tight" in my opinion on the 4runner but seems about right for lifted with big heavy tires. After fixing the LCA bushing/bolt issues it got rid of the steering wheel shake when hitting bumps and potholes.