Time for CV axles - what else to replace?

[Carl Fisher]

107k and my passenger side CV is slinging grease out of the boot on the case side. I'm going to just replace both since they are relatively inexpensive parts but curious what else to replace with them. I'm assuming seals on both sides but is there anything else I should worry about while I have it apart anyway?

Also planning to do wheel bearings as I systematically try to get rid of this vibration/drone at highway speeds (not tires).

 

[alia176]

I just went through this on the pass side. I replaced the CV shaft, hub bearing, inner/outer bearing seals and the axle seal (at the diff). I'm at 320k mileage and the upper and lower BJs look good so far. The BJ boots are sound, nothing is leaking.

All seals and the bearing came from Timken via Rockauto. Perfect fit as usual.

 

[hobosapien]

How long are CV axles typically good for? I want to do preventative maintenance and I have 135k on my truck, and if need be will replace them before they are a problem.

 

[JimInTN]

How long are CV axles typically good for? I want to do preventative maintenance and I have 135k on my truck, and if need be will replace them before they are a problem.

I'd run them until one starts leaking. Then I'd replace both along with the inner axle seals.

 

[Carl Fisher]

I just went through this on the pass side. I replaced the CV shaft, hub bearing, inner/outer bearing seals and the axle seal (at the diff). I'm at 320k mileage and the upper and lower BJs look good so far. The BJ boots are sound, nothing is leaking.

All seals and the bearing came from Timken via Rockauto. Perfect fit as usual.

You wouldn't happen to have the part numbers on hand would you?

So far this is what I have.

CV: Cardone 665235 (same part number for left and right)
Seal: Timkin 710596 (front left) and 710595 (front right)

There are however quite a few hub side seal and bearing options to choose from.

 

[Carl Fisher]

I'd run them until one starts leaking. Then I'd replace both along with the inner axle seals.

Sounds about right. That's exactly where I'm at now. The one side is leaking so I'll bite and replace both sides and be done with it.

 

[radlynx]

it can last for a long time but the cv boot in itself is usually the problem. if it's not leaking yet, you are good. if it starts leaking, you can either replace the just the boot or the whole axle.

fyi, those OEM axles are a lot better than the aftermarket ones.

How long are CV axles typically good for? I want to do preventative maintenance and I have 135k on my truck, and if need be will replace them before they are a problem.

 

[alia176]

You wouldn't happen to have the part numbers on hand would you?

So far this is what I have.

CV: Cardone 665235 (same part number for left and right)
Seal: Timkin 710596 (front left) and 710595 (front right)

There are however quite a few hub side seal and bearing options to choose from.

Timken site has part #s for the bearings, seals
Timken Online Parts Catalog

My CV axle came from AutoZone, $60 remanned.

 

[T4RNightHawk]

I rebuilt mine with the CVJ heavy duty boots. In the process I stripped the spindle thread and bought a CV from O'Riley's thinking I could use the outer shaft from that. When I cut the boots off I was horrified at how different and worse they were than the OEM ones. The OEM in bearing pivot and go in and out. The generics just go in out and overall have less mobility. I'd spend the time to rebuild or send them off to CVJ.

 

[Blackhawk_194]

I rebuilt mine with the CVJ heavy duty boots. In the process I stripped the spindle thread and bought a CV from O'Riley's thinking I could use the outer shaft from that. When I cut the boots off I was horrified at how different and worse they were than the OEM ones. The OEM in bearing pivot and go in and out. The generics just go in out and overall have less mobility. I'd spend the time to rebuild or send them off to CVJ.

I wonder how the Napa CV's are, I read somewhere that the company that makes the CV's for Napa also makes them for Toyota, however I can't validate that at this time.

 

[T4RNightHawk]

I wonder how the Napa CV's are, I read somewhere that the company that makes the CV's for Napa also makes them for Toyota, however I can't validate that at this time.

Yea I've heard of people liking the Napa ones. Only way to truly know is to cut the boot off though but then again ignorance is bliss.

 

[alia176]

I did the same thing when I got the Autozone CVs, removed the boot and inspected the bearings. Since my rig came with some aftermarket crap, I had no way of comparing. So ignorance is bliss in my case!!!!

 

[rooost]

Yea I've heard of people liking the Napa ones. Only way to truly know is to cut the boot off though but then again ignorance is bliss.

I went for the NAPAs just because the price seemed just right...not too cheap like $60 and not outrageous name brand dealer markup. They are good heavy units and should last, I dont "wheel" so my demands are not much more than driving my T4R like an sports car in addition to hitting every bump possible like a truck

 

[milehigh05]

I only live 10 min from CVJ axles. After visiting and talking to Steve, I ordered mine. Very good people and customer service. Got to pick up old ones and compare in their shop. Sold me on the craftsmanship, and reuse of Toyota steel. Very solid product, got the silicone boot. Got mine installed and am very satisfied.

 

[Blackhawk_194]

So I picked up a CV from Napa today, at first look it seems nice, I'll try to do an update once I get the OEM off. Napa recommended SKF for my seal vs the Timken seal.. I picked up one but will it be as good as the Timken?

 

[OzarkRunner]

I'll be replacing my CVs soon. Got them from CVJ, and also picked up OEM inner (differential) and outer (knuckle) seals from the dealer.
Also have some new UCAs (Camburg ball joint) on the way to go on as well.

 

[340W]

I'll bring this up again, as I'm about to do CV's on my '08. The only issue I have is the OEM boots have moved, not torn, and thrown a mess of grease all over the place. I figure, why reboot when I can replace? I don't have any leaking anywhere else, so are axle seals necessary? Nothing wrong with them, and I don't want to do more work than I have to under there.

Thoughts?

 

[alia176]

I'll bring this up again, as I'm about to do CV's on my '08. The only issue I have is the OEM boots have moved, not torn, and thrown a mess of grease all over the place. I figure, why reboot when I can replace? I don't have any leaking anywhere else, so are axle seals necessary? Nothing wrong with them, and I don't want to do more work than I have to under there.

Thoughts?

"Why reboot when I can replace". If your boot is barely torn and not much grease has escaped, I'd simply reboot with OEM. Unless you have a need to spend serious $$$ on a new OEM half shaft, that's the route I'd go.

 

[340W]

"Why reboot when I can replace". If your boot is barely torn and not much grease has escaped, I'd simply reboot with OEM. Unless you have a need to spend serious $$$ on a new OEM half shaft, that's the route I'd go.

Excellent point. I'm leaning towards replacing because the driver's side shaft at the differential has a ton of play in it and clanks when I go over bumps. Passenger side is well on the way, too.

I haven't seen any other reason to replace good seals and possibly risk goofing up.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

 

[alia176]

Excellent point. I'm leaning towards replacing because the driver's side shaft at the differential has a ton of play in it and clanks when I go over bumps. Passenger side is well on the way, too.

I haven't seen any other reason to replace good seals and possibly risk goofing up.

Sent from my XT1097 using Tapatalk

If your axle has radial play at the differential then chances are your seals aren't too happy either. Two kinds of shafts play scenarios - axial and radial. Which kind of play do you have?

I have 320xxx miles and I have zero axial and radial play at the diff end of both axles. Both axles are non OEM variety so I'm not sure what you got going on there.