Time to get busy!

[junkyardbiker]

Okay everyone, I just got back from a deployment and my poor Rex has been sitting for 10 months since its electrical fire and my leaving. Some of you may remember my alternator catching on fire months ago just after i finished a front main seal, oil pump seal, radiator and block flush and refill with coolant. I was so frustrated by the fact that I had JUST finished filling the cooling system back up and was burping the air from it when the alternator caught fire that i shut the truck off and walked away and I didn't even disconnect the battery. Well now Im home and ready to dig into it. I disconnected the alternator and yanked out the (was brand new) dead battery and borrowed the battery from my Acura and got the truck started on just the battery and took it for a short run up my neighborhood and back, parked it back in its spot and started looking through it. It appears my power steering pump is leaking, so im going to rebuild that and do the alternator change out while that out, but I want to do the GM CS130 conversion, setup for 3 wire. Every thread Ive found no one takes pictures of the wiring, or it turns into an argument over 1 wire vs 3 wire, people post info for the V6 wiring instead of the 22re, and all kinds of other stuff. I need a really simple diagram made Sesame Street style (pretty colors and letters and numbers) for some one that does not do electricity stuff. I can do nuts and bolts all day long, but not electricity. If you have pictures of your setup that helps too! I do have a buddy coming to help but one final end all writeup would be amazing. Also, Im finally putting in a starter while Im under there, how hard is it to put in a push button starter that is keyed but not powered by the ignition switch? Mine is an '89 with a factory starter relay but I get the cursed click no start too often. Pretty pictures helps! Thanks guys! Ive got to get this thing rolling so I can run trails again (my wife kicks me out of the drivers seat when we take the land cruiser out on trails) :redface:

 

[junkyardbiker]

I forgot to put in the important info, my Rex is a 1989 DLX 22re 5spd. Easy day! He's only got 439K on that original motor :banana:

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

You mean something like this?

(stolen image from ih8mud!)

Search this term on google for more images:

toyota gm alternator diagram

click "IMAGES" after googling that, you'll find a billion photos of alternators as well as wiring diagrams.

 

[junkyardbiker]

that should do me just real good! nice and simple. thank you very much!

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

No problem, Danny! And, if you find any issues with the wiring, try reading around Pirate or ih8mud, here's a good starter thread to refer to if you have any issues:

Installed Trail-Gear GM Alternator Bracket & CS130 Alternator. What did I do wrong? - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum

If I ever kill my MeanGreen alternator, I'll definitely go this route! Since you're already doing this mod, what brackets did you use to install the gm alternator? Curious to know how it mounted up for you.

 

[junkyardbiker]

I will be using the trail gear bracket to mount it, I am a machinists and fabricator but not having a welder at home and unable to get the truck to work to make sure i can make a bracket to put this alternator in the right position is hard to do and time is even more difficult. I dont get to play as much as I would like anymore

 

[airdreams1]

LOL Ive searched & all I seem to find is the info for the 4 cyl... still havent found the info for a 3.0....
I was hoping to use the 1 wire... but guess 3 might work? (but dont really want to change from a v belt)

 

[flyinhawaiian01]

Really, the only difference between the 1 wire and the 3 wire alternators, is the fact that the 1 wire "excites" itself from the large wire which runs from the battery directly to the terminal on the alternator. The 3 wire alternator requires +12VDC, switched from the key, to excite the field (ie., big electrical magnet) on the alternator, that's it. You have a 3rd wire which sends the voltage to the voltmeter in the dashboard, or the charge light in the dash if its not an sr5 cluster, but that's not required to be hooked up for the alternator to function.

Personally, there's 3 wires at the stock alternator, they're already there to wire in a 3 wire gm alternator with no real issues. Bolt it in, hook up big 4awg wire to the large terminal on the alternator, determine which wire is the "field" wire, a basic voltmeter will tell you which one it is, it will be the one that has +12VDC when the key is switched to "ON", and the other wire should be your batt light or volt meter wire in the dash. Super easy to do, actually! I think its harder to actually mount the alternator in there than it is to wire it in!:thumb3:

 

[junkyardbiker]

This thread is about to need a new name..... spent a good bit of time wiring the truck, rebuilt my P/S pump, got the trail gear bracket and CS-130 alternator put in and wired..... and the truck just wont start. Starter spins the motor over great, jumped the fuel pump to make sure it runs, bled the fuel system and checked the filter and fuel pressure regulator, checked for spark, truck runs beautifully on a shot of starter fluid, plenty of vacuum, alt is putting out power, still no fire on fuel, played with timing, started checking to COR and EFI relay. Getting voltage everywhere the FSM says we should. Then while runnin the starter and trying to adjust the timing again to get her to fire, the ECU smoked. Now, Ive never cared for cars that need weird sensors and computer crap to run so I started looking for the stuff to go 22R. Wow, hard to find and pricey. So I started looking for what Ive always wanted. A DIESEL!!!! Started out researching and realizing that a 4BT is not going to fit, I cant afford a toyota diesel since half chops are running 5k plus it seems. Then started looking at the MB OM617 swap! Seemed great, plenty of documented swaps and success stories out there and I started shopping for a motor. I want a running donor car so I can ensure Im dropping in a running motor, but living in Florida, rust isnt so big a worry here and an '85 or older 300D down here seems to usually have been well taken care of and are selling for 2000 plus. Thats a hair steep for just a good motor to me. Now Im stuck on a DIESEL!!! and it has to be a full mechanical of course. Then I found the craziest thing, a GM 4.3 V6 Diesel..... I know they are ba****d children of diesel engines but Im thinking this might be just interesting enough to be crazy and fun. Im just working out the logistics of is this thing going to fit? and how the hell im gonna bolt it to my W56 trans? Sorry for the long winded post after so long but... military life is a hectic one. I dont get much time in between work and family to work on the truck. Let me know what you guys think, tell me im crazy, tell me its a crap motor, all that.... hahahahah

 

[Red Tintop]

Go for it!

I wish you were just a little bit closer, I would sure like to help--or at least see it happen.

 

[RAD4Runner]

......Also, Im finally putting in a starter while Im under there, how hard is it to put in a push button starter that is keyed but not powered by the ignition switch? Mine is an '89 with a factory starter relay but I get the cursed click no start too often.

If a push button starter consistently cranks your starter, then do not touch that starter (or I will tell your wife - LOL!) Nothing is wrong with that starter. The wiring could be flawed just like the 1986 to 1988 runners. If you could post starter schematic for yours, I can easily tell you.

If wiring is flawed, the fix is here with pretty sesame street pics

 

[junkyardbiker]

I have already bypassed the key switch and factory relay with a new circuit. Fuel pump is on its own circuit that is energized when by its own relay since the key on fuel pump run made for some long starts. If I can get around to actually starting this swap one day I will take lots of pictures. I figure it cant be much worse than the 4.3 gasser swap, just with way less wiring. BTW, I put in a OEM starter from a junkyard rebuilt with an Aisin kit and it works beautifully. Just no fire from the motor....

 

[junkyardbiker]

And if I do this swap, I may sell the alt bracket and the motor. Motor runs great for having 439k on it lol. Just tired of electrical problems. Unless someone has an ECU to send me to I can continue to troubleshoot my existing setup. Im very reluctant to spend money on one and run the chance of whatever smoked mine doing it again before I find what caused it. its very hard to trace the circuits without power applied and a working ECU to give me signals.

 

[junkyardbiker]

Well the poor 4runner is up for sale in the classifieds. Ive been gone a lot lately with military life and all. Ive not really had time to work on the truck except opening the ECU and finding the fuel injector circuit IS fried, its one transistor in there, an 2SD1678 8K by toshiba. Ive not had luck finding another ECU that I can afford and I cant find this transistor available anywhere to have my 2M tech buddy reflow one in there. Meanwhile my other buddy is pressuring me to take my spare EFI manifold, unbolt the throttle body and weld a carburetor adapter plate on there, making our own 22R conversion. Im just concerned about all cylinders getting equal flow going that route. In short Im going to tinker with it until someone takes this poor girl off my hands or it runs or I scrap her:moping:
BTW, someone call Toyota and price an ECU for an '89 22re DLX and make sure I heard right? 1,975 dollars?

 

[wallytoo]

a quick search on ebay motors shows more than 50 ecu's for 89 4runner, most less than $120.

 

[Thefishguy77]

Let me check my garage. I think I have one and a harness from an 89 pickup don't know the sr5 or DLX. But it probably doesn't make to much difference with what I have read on pirate.


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[junkyardbiker]

Wow there are some cheapies on fleabay! Its funny how one transistor can take out the entire thing and you cant get it so fix it yourself. I apreciate the direction on that, honestly hadnt looked on there. I had priced rock auto and a few junkyards but for 30-50 bucks I may risk on an ECM and hopefully motivate me to keep this truck. The wife is already getting onto me about too many projects though. I would also be very intersted in your ECM and wiring harness since Im not sure if it was something in my harness that shorted it. Thank ya'll for the help as always!

 

[youngr]

don't really have time right this second to look around but do you have the part # from your ECU? I have a few in the pile and may be one you need.

 

[junkyardbiker]

I will try to read a part # when I get home again, Im not real sure what ECU its going to have in it because I believe the 22RE is out of a '93? Im also not sure of the compatability between the '89 and '93 wiring or anything so I dont know what the PO did to make it run. Im assuming he just used the '93 long block with the '89 goodies EFI. Thank you guys so much for the offers and direction, now Im convincing the wife Im keeping it if it runs again

 

[Thefishguy77]

I found mine. It is out of an 89 Xtra can pickup. 22re 4x4 ADD front end. Part number is 89661-0501
Or
175600-0501
I also have the engine compartment harness for it as well.

Edit:
Long blocks are the same. May be some sensor differences and such. But should be close

Let me know if you need it
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