Timing Belt Install Issue! Need Help!

Brian757

New member
So I thought I was going to change out the hydraulic tensioner, yeah, I don't feel like messing with that. So I am stuck with a timing belt half on and cannot get enough length to get it on all sides. Anyone have pictures on how to install this belt with so much tension? Can I compress some of the tension somehow?
 
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you have to remove it, use a bench vice or large vice grips to push the rod back into the assembly, then you have to find a pin to stick in to hold the rod in. then assembly it back in the car, get the timing belt on where you want it then pull your pin out and the rod will come out of the housing and give tension to the timing belt.

does that make sense?
w01331621786oes.jpg
 
Yeah that tool looks like the snap-on tool used to push the tensioner in. I did mine in a vice and you put a small hex key in the hole to hold the piston back.
 
Can someone explain the vice method?!
I cannot wait to purchase this tool so any other method, let me know.
 
I have a brand new hydraulic tensioner in the box.
I didnt want to install it because it looks like hell. There is nowhere locally that carries the timing belt tensioner compressor so I would have to order it and wait at least 4-5 days. So how bad is replacing the hydraulic tensioner?

[MENTION=44978]kball[/MENTION]: thanks for the link. I was somewhat following that one for my install.
 
I have a brand new hydraulic tensioner in the box.
I didnt want to install it because it looks like hell. There is nowhere locally that carries the timing belt tensioner compressor so I would have to order it and wait at least 4-5 days. So how bad is replacing the hydraulic tensioner?

[MENTION=44978]kball[/MENTION]: thanks for the link. I was somewhat following that one for my install.

It's not THAT bad. I did it the 'hard' way, by unbolting the A/C compressor bracket. The hard part about that is finding the correct position underneath the truck and positioning your arm so you can work the wrench. And, of course, getting it back on. (There are those who do it with extensions and a wobble socket and leave the A/C bracket in place, but I didn't have the wobble socket.)

Either way, with patience and some time, it gets done. I figure it added maybe 90 mins. to the job the first time. If I had to do it again, much less. In your situation, I'd just go ahead and do it. Then you can skip the tensioner the next time...I will, in about seven years :)
 
It's not THAT bad. I did it the 'hard' way, by unbolting the A/C compressor bracket. The hard part about that is finding the correct position underneath the truck and positioning your arm so you can work the wrench. And, of course, getting it back on. (There are those who do it with extensions and a wobble socket and leave the A/C bracket in place, but I didn't have the wobble socket.)

Either way, with patience and some time, it gets done. I figure it added maybe 90 mins. to the job the first time. If I had to do it again, much less. In your situation, I'd just go ahead and do it. Then you can skip the tensioner the next time...I will, in about seven years :)

But when I compare the new hydraulic tensioner with the pin in and the hydraulic tensioner in my truck, and they look like they are the same length, in terms of the metal rod in the middle. So when I install the new one, how is it going to take tension off?

And I might invest in the wobble socket. I do NOT want to take off the ac compressor. After my body lift, it makes this job almost look impossible.
 
[MENTION=44978]kball[/MENTION]: What size was your wobble socket? I haven't even tried taking off the hydraulic tensioner so what size are the 2 bolts holding it in? 12MM, 14MM?
 
UPDATE: So I just grew some balls and went out and bought a universal 1/4" swivel socket.
It made my nightmare turn out to be a 5 minute job.
I also put Anti-Seize on all of my bolts.
EEECE751-A63E-40B6-9489-3CE5A4F56084-2352-00000192CE8377F6_zps79b5320b.jpg~original


My tool: (THANKS [MENTION=44978]kball[/MENTION]!!)
CB80555D-A404-4624-89A8-7C71AE2DD127-2352-00000192F0DA0619_zps745c2830.jpg~original


Old Hydraulic Tensioner:
A4067103-E659-4301-9606-E923B63D8A38-2352-00000192E9571097_zpscc5a61ee.jpg~original


Its OUT:
9D161083-E09B-4EE3-AE10-2760B694F26C-2352-00000193662DECA9_zps92b73de8.jpg~original


New One:
01E93AE8-E160-4EB2-8627-C7D3218B6E17-2352-00000192DCF22C17_zps8ee409ba.jpg~original
 
Glad you got it done Brian! Sorry I wasn't here to help you out. I was out having fun with the fam at Joshua Tree.

I think I used a 6 point 1/2" wobble socket. I don't have metric wobbles.
 
Caging Belt Tensioner

B4 taking off old belt; hook a ratchet type Tie Down to the Bracket of the Alternator, take the strap and go around Belt just above tension pulley, tighten slowly and slip Pin in Tensioner.
 
the first time i did one i didn't have a vise. i put the tensioner in a socket and compressed it against the frame of the truck with a hydraulic jack. worked great.
 
For anybody reading this who doesn't know, those tensioners must be compressed slowly. If you go too fast when it's on the truck, you'll break the pulley bracket. Off the truck, you may break the tensioner. Take your time!
 
B4 taking off old belt; hook a ratchet type Tie Down to the Bracket of the Alternator, take the strap and go around Belt just above tension pulley, tighten slowly and slip Pin in Tensioner.

Glad your first post was replying to a thread from 2013. Lol welcome.
 
There have been some people able to get the tensioner out without loosening the AC compressor bracket. Honestly, it wasn't that hard to just swing the AC compressor out of the way, and loosen the bracket bolts. I used a swivel socket, long extension, and my 1/2" electric impact. Seriously not a big deal.

The Schielly tool works great, I've used it too. I keep an extra pin around just for that reason.
 

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