Timing belt job: I really buggered my camshaft getting seals out! JB -Weld time?

[Capnemo]

Oh quite tight, I had to use a plastic dead blow hammer and driver cup. On the other hand the crankshaft oil seal went in by hand, or mostly, don't recall now.

 

[Capnemo]

OK well the truck runs great, and no leks anywhere so far.

I truly appreciate the input advice and encouragement I received.

And I will aggressively filter out Youtube short cuts in the future!

I hope my photos will be of assistance to someone in the future if they have damaged or worn camshaft ends. My only comment on the sleeve kit is that the tear off (or not) rear wall is wide enough that one cannot drive the sleeve far enough back to enable the oil seal to sit only on the sleeve, and I did drive it back flush. It is just that the tear off area is pretty wide. It would probably be OK to let the rear of the sleeve sit on the original camshaft section backin front of the internal bearing, IF that section were unworn/undamaged. But removing the tear off wall of the sleeve while it is back there does leave a sharp burr even though the sleeve was not deformed. And if you choose to leave the tear off wall, one needs to leave a gap between it and the bearing and again between the rear of the oil seal, so the seal would I think sit out even further than my 1mm.

The seals are jammed in pretty tight, had to use a home made PVC seal driver to get it in there so I am not too concerned about it coming out,

 

[weekendclimber]

I'm not sure if I missed this, but would spinning the sleeve around so that the tear off wall was on the outboard side of crankshaft have been possible? Then you could potentially clean up the sharp edge afterwards. Again, not sure if that is technically putting it on "backwards".

 

[Capnemo]

Pure Genius ! I see no reason that would not have worked, so long as one lined the driving cup with tape so as not to mar the camshaft as you drove it in. Of course it would not really matter, the seal would be resting on the sleeve. Just do some measurements so you would know how far to drive it in and use the old seal mounted on the sleeve to calculate.

I sure wish I had thought of that! It would be key to make the cut to the tear off line first. But you might be able to twirl it off in the recommended fashion (there is a Redi Sleeve video out there) and one might not get a burr. I could not use that technique with the sleeve installed as designed.

Problem solved...

 

[Outrider]

I agree about it appearing to be the correct solution.

However, if anyone does that, be very certain that you clean up the rough edge before you install the new seal. Otherwise, I think the seal would be damaged by that rough edge, when it slides over it during installation.

And if you happened to scratch the camshaft when you dress up the rough edge - so what. It would be far enough forward to not matter.

 

[Capnemo]

One last refinement of the sleeve installation, checkitout:

Install the sleeve backwards, using Weekendclimber’s idea, but slide the seal onto the sleeve first so they get driven in together.

One would want to put a removable spacer (1/4”?) between the sleeve wall and seal,
maybe of PVC schedule 40 pipe, cut with a slit to enable removal and a zip tie around the circumference.

-Drive the sleeve/spacer/seal in together.
-snip the zip tie and remove the pvc spacer
-tear off the sleeve wall

This avoids the chance of damaging the seal lips when slid over the sharp edge where the wall is torn off.

I believe you could leave the the sleave wall on, there would be space bewteeen it and the block to spin and plenty of space before the pulley. But tearing off the wall would look cleaner.

I would not use the steel cup in the kit to drive the sleeve in backwards. It is hardly larger in diameter than the sleeve and could partially ride under an edge
of the sleeve when used on the backside of the wall, and deform it.

I used an end cap of PVC pipe, worked well, when the kit driver cup did not reach deep enough.

Damn, almost makes me want to go do it all over ��

 

[Outrider]

One last refinement of the sleeve installation, checkitout:

Install the sleeve backwards, using Weekendclimber’s idea, but slide the seal onto the sleeve first so they get driven in together.

One would want to put a removable spacer (1/4”?) between the sleeve wall and seal,
maybe of PVC schedule 40 pipe, cut with a slit to enable removal and a zip tie around the circumference.

-Drive the sleeve/spacer/seal in together.
-snip the zip tie and remove the pvc spacer
-tear off the sleeve wall

This avoids the chance of damaging the seal lips when slid over the sharp edge where the wall is torn off.

I believe you could leave the the sleave wall on, there would be space bewteeen it and the block to spin and plenty of space before the pulley. But tearing off the wall would look cleaner.

I would not use the steel cup in the kit to drive the sleeve in backwards. It is hardly larger in diameter than the sleeve and could partially ride under an edge
of the sleeve when used on the backside of the wall, and deform it.

I used an end cap of PVC pipe, worked well, when the kit driver cup did not reach deep enough.

Damn, almost makes me want to go do it all over ��

Sounds like you got it all figured out. Glad to know that. Now, you can compile and organize the info and create a thread to be made into a Sticky, on how to properly repair a damaged camshaft. :biggrin1:

If I would have known all of this when I nicked my camshaft, I would have repaired it this way, instead of the shadetree JB Weld method I used, which may eventually start leaking, but hopefully not.

 

[Sreppep]

Sounds like you got it all figured out. Glad to know that. Now, you can compile and organize the info and create a thread to be made into a Sticky, on how to properly repair a damaged camshaft. :biggrin1:

If I would have known all of this when I nicked my camshaft, I would have repaired it this way, instead of the shadetree JB Weld method I used, which may eventually start leaking, but hopefully not.

One last refinement of the sleeve installation, checkitout:

Install the sleeve backwards, using Weekendclimber’s idea, but slide the seal onto the sleeve first so they get driven in together.

One would want to put a removable spacer (1/4”?) between the sleeve wall and seal,
maybe of PVC schedule 40 pipe, cut with a slit to enable removal and a zip tie around the circumference.

-Drive the sleeve/spacer/seal in together.
-snip the zip tie and remove the pvc spacer
-tear off the sleeve wall

This avoids the chance of damaging the seal lips when slid over the sharp edge where the wall is torn off.

I believe you could leave the the sleave wall on, there would be space bewteeen it and the block to spin and plenty of space before the pulley. But tearing off the wall would look cleaner.

I would not use the steel cup in the kit to drive the sleeve in backwards. It is hardly larger in diameter than the sleeve and could partially ride under an edge
of the sleeve when used on the backside of the wall, and deform it.

I used an end cap of PVC pipe, worked well, when the kit driver cup did not reach deep enough.

Damn, almost makes me want to go do it all over ��

How is this sleeve repair holding up for you? I’m in the same situation but the damage was from a mechanic that botched the timing belt job.