Timing belt job question

[jeremyc74]

I don't think this applies to me, as I bought a complete kit with a new tensioner. But please correct me if I'm mistaken.

There are people who will disagree with this, but replacing the tensioner is really not required, and it adds hours to the job. It's not a part that's part of the replacement procedure in the service manual, and if you take it to a dealership for a timing belt change they're not replacing it unless something is wrong with it.

You can compress the one that's on there and save yourself some time and aggravation, with very little risk.

But that's just my opinion (based on having never seen anyone mention having one go bad), and I welcome any counter points to that so you can make your own informed decision.

 

[jeremyc74]

Well, I'd certainly torque the idler mounting bolts (30 ft-lbs).

Yes, and generally speaking torque is more critical any bolt that's holding an aluminum part, or threading into an aluminum part. Iron is much more forgiving when it comes to over torque.

 

[stir_fry_boy]

Even with the tensioner off, there is a very tight tolerance in the timing belt. Toyota mechanics just undo the top idler, route the belt, put the idler back in and torque to spec as [MENTION=10169]TheDurk[/MENTION] said.

 

[Jumpkix]

Update:

Ok, compressor and power steering have been unbolted, and moved to the side. AC bracket still has one bolt in it, but I now have easy access to the tensioner:

It took me a while to get to those compressor mount bolts with the tools I have, but they finally came off. I'm waiting on the water pump until tomorrow. Any advice for cleaning the surface? And since I bought the aircabinman kit from eBay, do I need to use a FIPG in addition to the gasket?

And what should be my next series of steps? I have OEM parts to replace the tensioner, tensioner pulley, idler pulley, and cam/crank seals (and the belt of course)

I'm waiting to do the seals until I have a chain wrench or tool to hold the pulleys in place and another set of hands. I imagine it's a pain if the cam slips from TDC as it becomes loose.

Again, thank you very much for everyone's help, and explaining this procedure like I'm 5. In my defense, I went to Portland State lol.


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[Jumpkix]

Also examined the old belts. Timing belt looked like it was doing ok:

Not sure which belt this was, but it was definitely ready to be replaced:

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[TheDurk]

No FIPG. The updated pump uses a metal/rubber gasket and needs nothing else. In fact, it'll screw it up.

 

[Jumpkix]

Tonight's update:

I removed the tensioner, followed by the water pump. I still need to remove the tensioner pulley, but need to buy the hex large enough to fit it. I also need to remove the idler pulley as well.

Random question: this part came off while extracting the water pump. Any idea where it goes?

Also, I keep going back and forth on the cam/crank seals. I'm this far, and should probably just replace them. On the other hand, I don't want to accidentally rotate any pulleys off the mark.

Anyways, so once I have the water pump installed (and the seals), am I ready to start reassembling things? What should the procedure be from this point?


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[Jumpkix]

Also, loctite blue on the crank bolt: yay or nay?


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[A.Wilson013]

Random question: this part came off while extracting the water pump. Any idea where it goes?

Also, I keep going back and forth on the cam/crank seals. I'm this far, and should probably just replace them. On the other hand, I don't want to accidentally rotate any pulleys off the mark.

Anyways, so once I have the water pump installed (and the seals), am I ready to start reassembling things? What should the procedure be from this point?

That part is the "boot" from the end of the tensioner, isn't it?

As for cam/crank seals... Don't sweat rotating the pulleys. They're "keyed" so it's virtually impossible to put them on incorrectly. With the pulley on, you can simply rotate them back to where the marks line up. It's really not an issue.

Once the water pump's on you can indeed start reassembly unless you want to start messing with crank seals.

Also, loctite blue on the crank bolt: yay or nay?

I have never used loctite on a crank bolt and will never use loctite on a crank bolt.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Also, loctite blue on the crank bolt: yay or nay?


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Like I said before, I've got the tools you need. I work in Portland. PM me if you need help. Small plans for Saturday, nothing big. I could swing by if you want.

You don't need the tensioner compressor tool from Schley if you purchased a new tensioner. Just don't pull the pin until the job is finished. I have a brand new one I never used.

Some may disagree with me here, but replace the balancer bolt. It's cheap. I believe mine came with loctite on them. The bolt is keyed and torqued, not really necessary but it will help you sleep better.

Pulling the cam pulleys off will be a bugger without a chain wrench like Stir Fry mentioned. You should change the crank and cam seals out. Figure you're looking at about ten years or so before you need to pull the front end apart again.

It's best to loosen the three bolts at the same time before the belt comes off. PM me if you need help.

 

[A.Wilson013]

Take Mike up on his offer. Having someone with even a bit of experience with the task, and the right tools, will decrease the time spent exponentially.

 

[Jumpkix]

Thanks, [MENTION=63487]A.Wilson013[/MENTION].

Sent you a PM, [MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION].


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[stir_fry_boy]

When pulling the cam/crank seals, be careful not to damage the aluminum that surrounds the seals. That's where the seal puller comes into it's own. It's not hard, just a bit more work. The crank timing pulley just pulls off, you can use some WD-40 or something if there is some rust.

Looking at your picture of the water pump above, it appears that you haven't cleaned the mating surface? You need to get those pretty clean.

 

[Jumpkix]

Big update!!!

Incredible progress has been made this weekend! Didn't get a chance to post earlier because I was either wrenching, or at the coast outside of cellphone reception. Anyways, all that was accomplished would not have been possible without the help from [MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION]. Mike, thanks again for sacrificing your Saturday to help put my baby back together! It was fun, and you certainly taught me a lot. We would all be extremely fortunate to have a neighbor like you.

We kicked off Saturday morning by removing the cam pulleys, and Mike brought the big guns! It sure was nice having an impact wrench, among the other goodies that he brought.

Impact wrench: 2
Cam pulleys: 0

Next, Mike showed me how to pull the seals. This method was very effective:

(We used ultra fine grit sandpaper to make sure the journals were good to go)

Installing new seals with PVC:

Mike, showing me how it's done:

Installing the new belt. It was not as bad as I thought, keeping everything aligned:

Installed!

The last fight before the home stretch:

[MENTION=63487]A.Wilson013[/MENTION], the red loctite was already on the bolt unfortunately

Me, putting some mustard on that torque wrench:

Everything torqued down, idlers/tensioner replaced, and then the last scary part. Pulling the grenade pin:

We called it a day after that. Tonight, I began putting the little things back together with a friend's help.

The wives, supervising:

I can almost see the finish line now!

After slipping the belts on, I called it another night. I still need to install the fan, fan shroud, radiator and bracket, and the skid plates. These are the bolts remaining:

I'm having some trouble identifying the 2 unique ones in the middle. But I'm pretty pretty sure I know where the other ones are going, and will verify with the FSM.

Hopefully I'll get the last few things installed after work tomorrow, and tighten up the belt tensioners. Any advice for belt tightness? After that, the big moment of truth.


Again, thank you Mike for all your help. I look forward to lending you a hand when you need it.

And thank you to everyone else on here who have been gracious enough to help me along the way!


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[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Also, loctite blue on the crank bolt: yay or nay?


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The new replacement bolt comes with Toyota's version of Loctite. Probably something like blue Loctite. Saw you used red. Hopefully you'll never have to take it off again cause it's going to be a bear to get off.

 

[Rock_Rat]

The new replacement bolt comes with Toyota's version of Loctite. Probably something like blue Loctite. Saw you used red. Hopefully you'll never have to take it off again cause it's going to be a bear to get off.

Exactly. That's a new bolt with the "Toyota" loctite already on the threads. I've done my belt three times now with a new factory bolt. Comes off "no problem".

He mentioned that in the photo and I mentioned it in post #50.

EDIT: Just to be clear, I've only done my belt twice. My mechanic did the first one no problems. Same guy that just did my son's Acura. We were a bit surprised to see red on the bolt.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Looks good. Do clean your battery terminals.

I am surprised Rock Rat didn't make you get a Husky tattoo for all the help he provided.

 

[Rock_Rat]

Big update!!!

Incredible progress has been made this weekend! Didn't get a chance to post earlier because I was either wrenching, or at the coast outside of cellphone reception. Anyways, all that was accomplished would not have been possible without the help from [MENTION=116467]Rock_Rat[/MENTION]. Mike, thanks again for sacrificing your Saturday to help put my baby back together! It was fun, and you certainly taught me a lot. We would all be extremely fortunate to have a neighbor like you.

We kicked off Saturday morning by removing the cam pulleys, and Mike brought the big guns! It sure was nice having an impact wrench, among the other goodies that he brought.
After slipping the belts on, I called it another night. I still need to install the fan, fan shroud, radiator and bracket, and the skid plates. These are the bolts remaining:

I'm having some trouble identifying the 2 unique ones in the middle. But I'm pretty pretty sure I know where the other ones are going, and will verify with the FSM.

Hopefully I'll get the last few things installed after work tomorrow, and tighten up the belt tensioners. Any advice for belt tightness? After that, the big moment of truth.


Again, thank you Mike for all your help. I look forward to lending you a hand when you need it.

And thank you to everyone else on here who have been gracious enough to help me along the way!


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Thanks for the kudos, but you did all the work! No sacrifice at all. It was good working with you. Very methodical and very meticulous and no rush. It looks good. Not sure where those two bolts go. Might be the radiator bracket that he took off. I'm sure you've already looked in that folder of pics I gave you. I'll pop open my hood today and see if I can figure it out.

 

[diverscale]

Guys, for my personal information, when using those big wood screws to remove the two cam seals, couldn't the large wood screw gouge the metal surface of the camshaft and cause a leaking seal at the next installation? It clearly appear to be outside the inner race of the seal.

 

[Jumpkix]

Looks good. Do clean your battery terminals.

I am surprised Rock Rat didn't make you get a Husky tattoo for all the help he provided.

Yea, he said the same thing about the battery terminals :tongue1:

As much as I'm a die hard Ducks fan, I'd call the Husky tat a fair trade LOL.

Guys, for my personal information, when using those big wood screws to remove the two cam seals, couldn't the large wood screw gouge the metal surface of the camshaft and cause a leaking seal at the next installation? It clearly appear to be outside the inner race of the seal.

Yes, you have to be very careful if you remove them like this, but it worked well. You will want some kind of tool to break the surface of the seal first, so you can get the screws started. Once the seals were removed, we used 2000 grit sand paper to touch up the journals.