I just completed the belt replacement and the pic's in the link above were very helpful.
A few notes I would add:
1) You will NOT get the crankshaft pulley bolt out of there without a tool to hold the pulley. My brother fabricated a tool similar to the above with his mig welder and it was a godsend. He made it just long enough that it would go against the frame rail when loosening the bolt and yes, I got it off there by myself.
But brother let me tell you, that bolt is IN THERE. I had to use a 3 ft cheater bar on my 1/2" drive socket wrench to get it loose. My trusty Snap-On impact wrench wouldn't break it. That's the first bolt in history I couldn't get loose with that impact gun.
2) Toyota recommends you replace the 17mm crankshaft pulley bolt. I did. It cost $7 give or take some quarters. It comes factory applied with thread lock - I added some additional red Thread Locker to be safe. The only torque wrench I had available would only go to 150 FT/LBS. I torqued it to 150 and then torqued it
3) I drained and pulled my radiator and shroud as well as draining the transmission when doing this (since I was going to replace the fluids anyway).
Having the radiator out of the way definitely helped. The 4 bolts that hold the fan to the fan bracket suck. There is no way to get a socket behind them so you are stuck using a box end. I put blue thread locker on them when reinstalling them. There is a torque spec on them but there is no way in hell you will get a regular torque wrench behind them. There is almost no clearance.
4) It took me three shots to get the timing marks lined up after letting the tensioner go. On the third try I forwarded the timing marks one notch on the cams and when the tensioner let go it lined everything up. Don't get frustrated here. And Mike is correct, NOT having to uninstall and reinstall the tensioner with the Snap-On tool would be a great time saver:thanks::thanks:. I probably wasted a good 2 hours total starting over, because once that tensioner lets go, you have to pull it back out and recompress it with a hydraulic press... Very time consuming.
5) Speaking of the tensioner, I have a small A frame hydraulic press that I bought from Harbor Freight. Nothing fancy but it does most of what I need including compressing the tensioner. I am pretty sure a good vise would work, but the tensioner does have a lot of torque.
6) If you are going to remove the grille, odds are you will break the retaining clips. It would take an act of congress and God himself guiding you to do so without breaking them - either taking the grille off OR putting it back on. I only broke 1 taking it off but broke 3 putting it back on. Order those too before you start and save yourself some frustration.
7) And last but not least, my belt @ 93K looked really good. In fact, comparing the two it was hard to tell the difference. No webbing, cracking or anything that made me think "Oh man, glad I replaced this one".
Since this a non-interference engine, I would probably run it to 110K miles the next time around. I'm not saying to blow away Toyota's recommendations, but the belt looked pretty good and there is probably a LOT of precaution built in there. If you are @ 90K miles I personally wouldn't sweat it going another 5 or 10K until you get around to doing this.
Hope this helps!
