Timing belt?

MatthewRM18

MatthewRM18

New member
Sorry for the crappy video(I shattered my camera on my phone), but I am wondering if anyone can tell if this is the timing belt? Or is there a way to check? I know that I can buy the genuine parts kit from ebay for 200 some bucks, but my dad is not confidant in my "abilities" to do it myself, and because he originally spotted me the money for this rig he gets the last say. Shops want like 600+ for just the timing belt, and not the water pump or anything else, and that is just labor and they will not accept the genuine parts. They want me to pay for garbage aftermarket parts through them. Anyone know how to check which belts are bad? This sound is really obnoxious and I don't want one to snap on me. The truck has like 181k on it, belts, water pump, etc. were all changed at a dealer at 90k. It is time to change them anyways. Any advice is welcome, thanks.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ue2JvjhOrY
 
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The timing belt is under the black plastic cover which says "3400 4CAM 24". The accessory drive belts are the ones that are visible. As for the noise, it sounds like it could a bearing in one of your accessories, (Power steering pump, Alternator, A/C Compressor) the tensioner pulleys for those accessories, or the pulleys for the timing belt.

Without inspecting it in person, it's impossible for me to say definitively.

I'd have to go with your Dad's intuition on this. If you don't know what the timing belt is, then I would also say you are not ready to tackle that job at this point in time. It's not that difficult, but it does need to be done correctly.

I will say that even though you are again at the recommended 90k interval for T-belt replacement, it's not too likely to fail soon. Of course that's no guarantee it won't.

I have seen 5VZ-FE timing belts that had over 250k on them, and hadn't failed yet.
 
I know what the timing belt is, I just wasn't sure if this was coming for it. The sound appears to be coming from the front pulleys and accessory belts, I was just wondering if anyone could tell from this video. I was thinking it was the top center pulley, but I didn't know if this was a common sound when something was going to go or not. I would love to do this myself, and I'm sure I could figure it out with the writeups and all on here. Thanks for the advice though. Anything that I can do to check the bearings and all? Of check the belts themselves? None of the belts, timing belt included show any signs of wear.
 
^^^^^ Agree with [MENTION=2541]02SE[/MENTION] If you have a long wooden dowel or broken broom handle or something similar. Place one end on top of the alternator, PS pump, AC compressor and put your ear on the other end. Works like a stethoscope. However, don't start it again.

My problem with the noise is the other thread you started. There's something more going on with your rig than just an accessory going out.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/210460-rough-start-stall-idle.html

Now the trick is to link these two problems together. I think your rough start, stall, idle indications are not fuel related but rather a pre-cursor of what you're hearing now.

Almost sounds like a loss of compression with a spun bearing somewhere. (That's really pulling the trigger on what I call "armchair" shotgun troubleshooting.) Bring it to a mechanic and find out what it is. Have it towed and don't run it anymore.
 
Rock_Rat said:
^^^^^ Agree with [MENTION=2541]02SE[/MENTION] If you have a long wooden dowel or broken broom handle or something similar. Place one end on top of the alternator, PS pump, AC compressor and put your ear on the other end. Works like a stethoscope. However, don't start it again.

My problem with the noise is the other thread you started. There's something more going on with your rig than just an accessory going out.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/210460-rough-start-stall-idle.html

Now the trick is to link these two problems together. I think your rough start, stall, idle indications are not fuel related but rather a pre-cursor of what you're hearing now.

Almost sounds like a loss of compression with a spun bearing somewhere. (That's really pulling the trigger on what I call "armchair" shotgun troubleshooting.) Bring it to a mechanic and find out what it is. Have it towed and don't run it anymore.
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The "squeal" has been happening for weeks, and figuring it was just a belt I have been driving it since then, no issues until now. Today it started up fine each time I tried it, both cold starts... Also, couldn't clean the MAF because the PO stripped both screws. I would take it to a mechanic like you guys recommend, but there are no mechanics in my area that aren't thorough con-artists, none will accept genuine parts. Should I take it to the dealer?...I really don't want to, but maybe it is the best choice.
 
Shops aren't con artists because they won't accept your parts. They would rather work with parts they supply because they trust them and don't want to deal with any warranty work down the road because the part you supplied failed and because they get a mark up on the parts they sell. I don't blame them either. Now if you tell them you only want them to use OEM parts and they won't that's one thing but I know several shops that won't use parts you bring them because they don't have experience with them and won't warranty the work since they have no experience with them.
 
cashmoney said:
Shops aren't con artists because they won't accept your parts. They would rather work with parts they supply because they trust them and don't want to deal with any warranty work down the road because the part you supplied failed and because they get a mark up on the parts they sell. I don't blame them either. Now if you tell them you only want them to use OEM parts and they won't that's one thing but I know several shops that won't use parts you bring them because they don't have experience with them and won't warranty the work since they have no experience with them.
Click to expand...
Yes sir, I completely understand that they would like to order the parts, but the last 4 shops we have used refused to even order OEM parts, the last time was for coils, and now I'm stuck with some off brand coils that will probably go bad in a few years, he would not order the Denso parts as they "cost too much", even though I was the one fronting the money. I guess they wouldn't be able to mark them up as much. Also, I mean to respect to the mechanics on here, that is why I'm coming for help. Thank you, if anyone knows of anyone trustworthy around Hanover, PA I would be extremely gracious. Thanks guys.
 
Honestly, worrying about OEM parts right now is the least of your worries. To quote you from your initial thread "I am able to get it to start if I rev the crap out of it as soon as it starts though" and to listen to the video in this thread, you have a mechanical problem somewhere.

I would lean toward a loss of compression for your initial problem and now something else causing the noise. My gut feeling says it's internal. You need a mechanic to look at it and then you can decide what direction you're going to go.

Both threads are important in troubleshooting this situation.
 
My guess, and that is what it is, is that it is a worn bearing or pulley. I'd start with the fan bracket bearing and go from there. If mud or rust has gotten on the drive belts that may be your problem. I have never heard a water pump sound like that.

But as 02SE stated, it is just guesswork from here.
 
Rock_Rat said:
Any updates to share?
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Yes actually, sorry I forgot to update this. It completely slipped my mind to check the accessory belts with water. I was thinking the worst I guess. I sprayed the alternator belt, goodbye squeal, so I went and got all new belts for up front because I figure while I am at it I may as well change them all. As of now there are no signs that the timing belt is bad. Also, I have had a couple of labored starts, but not stalling like I had before, I still haven't gotten new screws for the MAF sensor, so I haven't been able to clean it yet. I'm hoping that may be the issue. It has been running and driving great, no loss of power or anything. Just have to hold the key a tad bit longer.
 
That's fantastic. Glad it was small. Thanks for the update. It's never easy troubleshooting from a distance.
 
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