Timing Belt
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mtbtim
Elite Member
Aircabinman on Ebay has a kit that lots of people on this forum have used. It's a complete kit to replace all the related parts like the 3 drive belts, water pump, both idler pulleys, timing belt tensioner, camshaft seals, and crankshaft seals. A link to the aircabinman kit is in the video description of the Part 1 video below. If you're planning on doing the job yourself, the videos will walk you through the whole process. Just be sure to watch Part 2 because we discuss other helpful information, primarily an easier way to get the timing belt on.
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JRambo
New member
Agreed on this kit, very complete. Make sure to get a new crank pulley bolt as well.
Timmy's video was perfect for this, I did this for the first time following his videos and it worked out great!
Soneill
Member
If you have done this type of work before, it's not too bad. If not the Timmy videos as mentioned above are great and will get you thru it just fine. As someone who has done other timing belts I was amazed how simple it was AND how much room there is to work. Save your money do it yourself!!!
I have also decided to replace the radiator at every T-Belt change too. Helps prevent the pink milkshake.
My original Toyota radiator got to 125k and it started leaking. So replaced it along with the timing belt kit.
The replacement lifetime Advance Auto one got to 250k and started leaking. Again, replaced it along with a timing belt kit.
I figure I will just keep doing the same.
-Mike
mtbtim
Elite Member
Actually they do. When you look in the factory service manual that discusses the timing belt job, you will see an overall parts schematic and the crank pulley bolt with have a solid black colored diamond next to it. When you look at the legend of symbols at the bottom of the page, an item denoted with a solid black colored diamond means it's a "Non-Reusable Part".
I stand corrected.
I have a 1996 FSM and it doesn't show the diamond.
But I checked my 2000 and 2002 FSM's and they do.
They changed it for a reason I guess.
Hope mine doesn't fall off! Although I don't think it will.
mtbtim
Elite Member
Well, the FSMs are known to have a decent amount of mistakes, some more egregious than others. I guess one of the technical writers caught it after 1996.
O2RunnerSR5
New member
How much harder is the timing belt job with all seals compared to valve cover gasket job. The thing that’s worrying me is lining everything back up correctly when installing the timing belt. Mine was changed 50k miles ago, but almost 10 years ago now.
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Soneill
Member
I would say a valve cover gasket is about a 2 where as timing belt is about about a 7
Tbelt job is simple. Lining it all up is straight forward to the lines on the new tbelt with the makers in the engine.
Note to put it at top dead center before pulling off the old one, and make sure the the cam and crank are on the timing marks. That will make the reinstallation of the new belt simple.
Just did this twice on mine...took me 2hrs start to finish. First time I did it, the crank seal was aftermarket and so it started leaking right away, Redid it with oem crank seal a week later and it’s all dry!
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Note to put it at top dead center before pulling off the old one, and make sure the the cam and crank are on the timing marks. That will make the reinstallation of the new belt simple.
Just did this twice on mine...took me 2hrs start to finish. First time I did it, the crank seal was aftermarket and so it started leaking right away, Redid it with oem crank seal a week later and it’s all dry!
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O2RunnerSR5
New member
Ok so about 2-7 hours for you guys, so I should give myself a couple days. Any tips or tricks that Timmy doesn’t mention in his video that would help me? Also, besides what comes with the timing belt kits on eBay. What else should be replaced while I have the timing belt off?
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Werolin
New member
I just bought the eBay kit Tim has on his video (the $298.42 one which comes with the other belts), and I am about to conquer this in a couple of weeks. Comparing it to ordering the parts individually myself that kit is a great deal!
Tim's videos are great! Very thorough, and I especially appreciate the links to the various tools he uses (which I have purchased many), as well as the torque specs for each nut/bolt. I do have (a digital copy) of the service manual, but it's still nice to include the torque specs and OEM part numbers.
Looking forward to the next sick mods BBQ!
Tim's videos are great! Very thorough, and I especially appreciate the links to the various tools he uses (which I have purchased many), as well as the torque specs for each nut/bolt. I do have (a digital copy) of the service manual, but it's still nice to include the torque specs and OEM part numbers.
Looking forward to the next sick mods BBQ!
I find two hours very hard to believe.
mtbtim
Elite Member
I also find it hard to believe. I know I'm not the fastest mechanic but I'm not the slowest either. There's no way I could pull off this job in 2 hours and guarantee I didn't make a mistake and screw something up. Hell, doing a thorough job of cleaning off the surface for the new water pump alone takes around 15-20 minutes. Either this guy is really freaking good at turning wrenches or he hasn't exactly spoken the truth on how long it took.
I suppose there's a few things one could do to "shave time" off.
1) Not having skids on.
2) breaking your top cover so you don't have to put the top radatior hose off and you can just remove it.
3) No A/C belt
The work isn't incredibly hard but draining the coolant and filling the coolant alone is going to take like 15-30 minutes.
Also I typically will cycle the engine multiple times (5+) to make sure the timing belt hasn't skipped a tooth or etc when setting the tensioner.
I'd imagine if you do nothing with the water pump and coolant then you can shorten the work up quite a bit and it would only make sense to do so if you've just replaced the water pump and need to replace a cam or crank seal.
BikeDestroyer
New member
Tim do you have the part number for the crank pully bolt? I can't seem to find it. Thanks
mtbtim
Elite Member
The part number and link was right there in the video description. With all our videos, we put helpful information like this in the video descriptions and pinned comments. Always check both of those because we put lots of good stuff in them like the parts links, tool links, torque specs, and updates on the repair as we learn more as time has passed.
*Crank Pulley Bolt #90119-16006
https://amzn.to/2pIZf5q
