tire roatation and wheel torque?

Jason B

Jason B

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tire rotation and wheel torque?

97 limited. Going to my buddies tire shop right now for rotation. I forget, what's the best way to do it?

Rear tires to the front, and then criss cross the tires that were on front and bring to the rear? Or is it other way?

Also, wheel torque again is?

(i tried the seatch quick but couldn't get it)
 
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Jason B said:
97 limited. Going to my buddies tire shop right now for rotation. I forget, what's the best way to do it?

Rear tires to the front, and then criss cross the tires that were on front and bring to the rear? Or is it other way?

Also, wheel torque again is?

(i tried the seatch quick but couldn't get it)
Click to expand...

Best rotation is a 5 tire rotation.
Tire Tech Information - Tire Rotation Instructions

84 ft/lb. Or nice and snug with your "arm wrench"
 
Don't have a 5th. So on our 4runners. Which is best way. I also forget, but someone used to say there was one of the rear tires that would wear out faster than another?
 
Jason B said:
Don't have a 5th. So on our 4runners. Which is best way. I also forget, but someone used to say there was one of the rear tires that would wear out faster than another?
Click to expand...

Rear right can wear out faster if your always spinning it around a corner. That link I showed you has 4 tire and 5 tire rotations. The main thing is to make sure you rotate frequently and make sure you keep the same rotation.
 
4x4's need a rotation more than non-4x4's because of the suspension.

I rotate my tires every other oil change so that's every 6000 miles.

Front tires cross to the back & rears come straight forward.
 
JayRolla said:
Rear right can wear out faster if your always spinning it around a corner. That link I showed you has 4 tire and 5 tire rotations. The main thing is to make sure you rotate frequently and make sure you keep the same rotation.
Click to expand...

Got it. Thanks. Done and then we found this.

BOTH are busted. What are you guys using for good replacements. Non lifted truck.
 

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Scramble said:
4x4's need a rotation more than non-4x4's because of the suspension.
Click to expand...

Wait, what???

Which suspension would that be that 4x4s have?

OP you don't need anything special for those sway bar links. You're local auto parts stores have them or can get them easily or go with Amazon or Rock Auto if you prefer online.
 
Straight front to back if the wear is nice and even with no cupping, uneven wear from one side to the other, cross the fronts, any cupping, cross whichever 2 are cupping.

I torque anything pre- 4th gen at 100 ft lbs but spec is 84.
 
I send the front tires straight back, rear tires cross to the front. To each his own, just make sure you do it the same way each time for consistency
 
csp said:
Wait, what???

Which suspension would that be that 4x4s have?

OP you don't need anything special for those sway bar links. You're local auto parts stores have them or can get them easily or go with Amazon or Rock Auto if you prefer online.
Click to expand...

If I remember correctly from the owners manual and/or the maintenance guide from 16 years ago. They recommend a 10,000 mile rotation on Non-4x4 cars & 4x4 vehicle's every 5000 miles. Then they showed a pic of a truck up in the air & the 4 wheels hanging in towards the center of the vehicle & a car up in the air with the tire's hanging flat. Maybe it was all cars every 10,000 & all trucks every 5,000 (even 4x2). I do remember it saying that trucks wear more unevenly than cars so that's why they recommend more rotations.
 
So are you specifically talking about 4Runners, or Toyotas in general or ?????

The earlier statement was very vague.
 
Scramble said:
If you dont have a lift use OEM.
Click to expand...

Absolutely no reason to pay OEM price for this part--the OEM link is nothing special. This part works until it breaks; there is no 'performance' difference. The Autozone link I put on at 85K was just as beefy and has lasted longer than the factory one. Give me one good reason to pay $108 list or $75 on-line for a part that costs like $25 at Autozone or $14 on Amazon. There is no risk to a part failure, I never noticed mine were broken until I happened to be under there and I really think the OEM are pretty cheesy.


They ain't LBJs. That's a different story.
 
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TheDurk said:
Absolutely no reason to pay OEM price for this part--the OEM link is nothing special. This part works until it breaks; there is no 'performance' difference. The Autozone link I put on at 85K was just as beefy and has lasted longer than the factory one. Give me one good reason to pay $108 list or $75 on-line for a part that costs like $25 at Autozone or $14 on Amazon. There is no risk to a part failure, I never noticed mine were broken until I happened to be under there and I really think the OEM are pretty cheesy.


They ain't LBJs. That's a different story.
Click to expand...

Mine are 16 years old & never broke. I've seen people on here break crappy moog ones in under a year. There's your one reason.

csp said:
So are you specifically talking about 4Runners, or Toyotas in general or ?????

The earlier statement was very vague.
Click to expand...

Toyota in general. My maintenance guide covers a few vehicles. There's a section for Cars/Sienna & a section for SUV's/ Tacoma.
 
Yoter said:
Why do you torque to 100 Ft lbs?
Click to expand...

Just something my dad had done since the mid 80's that kind of got passed along. The studs can take it for sure, never had a single one shear, so why not I guess?

Do not do it on newer stuff though, when we first got my Mom's FJ my dad went to torque it up and sheared 3 studs right off. Stick to 84 on those.
 
TheDurk said:
Absolutely no reason to pay OEM price for this part--the OEM link is nothing special. This part works until it breaks; there is no 'performance' difference. The Autozone link I put on at 85K was just as beefy and has lasted longer than the factory one. Give me one good reason to pay $108 list or $75 on-line for a part that costs like $25 at Autozone or $14 on Amazon. There is no risk to a part failure, I never noticed mine were broken until I happened to be under there and I really think the OEM are pretty cheesy.


They ain't LBJs. That's a different story.
Click to expand...

I've broken cheap links first time I flexed out on stock suspension. Oem links on these are not much better. Spot welded two piece design that fails. Tundra front links work and they are a entire casted piece of metal that is a lot stronger. You can find cast Tundra after markets also to save money but the super cheap ones will be two piece spot welded.
 
Scramble said:
If I remember correctly from the owners manual and/or the maintenance guide from 16 years ago. They recommend a 10,000 mile rotation on Non-4x4 cars & 4x4 vehicle's every 5000 miles. Then they showed a pic of a truck up in the air & the 4 wheels hanging in towards the center of the vehicle & a car up in the air with the tire's hanging flat. Maybe it was all cars every 10,000 & all trucks every 5,000 (even 4x2). I do remember it saying that trucks wear more unevenly than cars so that's why they recommend more rotations.
Click to expand...
10,000 is way too long. 5k is much better.

Yoter said:
Why do you torque to 100 Ft lbs?
Click to expand...

I do as well.
 
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