tires and shaking... i kno been talked over a million times

[salvaged]

OK so i have a road trip coming up and not alot of cash to throw around. I know i have one semi leaky lower driverside ball joint, and all 4 tires have slight cupping on the inside, but look almost brand new. I bought the truck with them on it. ( BFG's 265/75/16). A little background is the guy i bought it from his wife drove it for quite a bit with warped front rotors. I replaced those immediatly. Which cleared up some serious shaking however could that be the reason for cupped tires? If i was to have them remounted with the inner side out what would be the cause and effect? Has anyone tried this before? Also i had the front tires balanced they were off and it help a lil bit. then i moved the fronts to the rear which made no difference but im thinking of getting them balanced inthe front. ( i did have them done the right way definitely made sure)

my truck shakes just like every one else's( mainly between 60-70MPG ) and i know i need to replace everything in the front end just because the truck has 245k on it but just cant afford it right now and given the thread i just read on BJ's shearing offscared the crap out of me.

roughly 480.00 for lower bj's, TR's inner and outer.

I have been reading that tire cupping could cause shaking that is why i was thinking maybe if i have tires switched it might help or make it worse or better

if i had a xtra grand laying around i would jsut buy all front end parts new shocks and mounts and go to work then align but i dont right now so i am looking for the most logical place to start

all help appreciated
truck in question ( all gold is gone :biggrin2

 

[Qyota]

Typically, cupping is caused by worn shock absorbers, or bad alignment, or a combination. The cup shape comes from the tire literally bouncing up and down during its rotation, due to poor control from the shock absorber. I'd look at those first.

Is your $480 estimate parts only? Seems low for OEM stuff and labor.

 

[salvaged]

yeah i had read that about the shocks which is totally possible.

yes those are oem prices on the bj's and outer and inner tie rods not from a dealer

i can get KYB replacements for 90 for the front and 65.00 for the rear

i definitely have a torn front DS lower BJ and i just checked the steering rack play and they do seem squishy when turning the wheel back and forth

So i guess what it looks likeis i should defintely do the ball joints and the rack bushings along wiht the shocks. Iwas trying to hold out on shocks till i could do the OME lift but i guess not

 

[topdown4runner]

I concur...
Shocks are the #1 culprit of cupping. Even if you get some cheapo's to hold you over till the OME lift, your ride will thank you.

Get the parts and install them yourself. You will gain lots of knowledge and save a large chunk of change. Most of what you are buying for that $480 is for labor anyway. BJ's are not that hard to change out yourself.

On another note, see if any shops in your area do what is known as tire shaving. They litterly shave off the rubber down to the bottom of the cup. You think you are loosing tire life, but in actuality, you are saving your tires and your truck. They will last much longer and give a much smoother ride after it is done. Don't get this done until after your shocks, BJ's etc... are done so you do not re-cup the tires.

Good luck!

 

[salvaged]

Ok because im on a budget

hers what i can do and the most for the price tell me your thoughts

Lower BJ's 43.00x2
upper BJ 12.99x2
Front shocks gas-matic 58.00x2
rear same 21.99x2
shock mounts front 16.95x2
steering rack bushings 16.95 for a grand total of $296.95 + a 59.99 for an alignment i am good for under 400.00 bucks

I know these are not the best of the best they are from advanced auto. I basically use or truck for family duty and my DD i do not off road often and if i do its very light. Whats your opinon on these items

edit i went with the sensa trac shock i go them to give them to me for 70 a peice in the front and 39.99 in the rear

so all in all under 400.00 bucks and i should have a front end that is new and hopefully fix my shaking

some said harbor freight has a nice ball joint puller correct ??? or actually northern tool i have one of those close to me

 

[brian2sun]

You get what you pay for and those must be the cheapest ball joint prices I've ever seen. UBJs for 12.99?? OEM would be a lot more $$, but you won't be doing it again in a year or even 5-10 years. I would be really surprised if those cheapies even last more than a few months without tearing/cracking/leaking - my Moogs didn't. Do yourself a favor, learn from my mistake... get OEM parts only! The poly bushings are good though, I have no problems with mine.

 

[topdown4runner]

If you didn't put many miles per year on your truck, then the cheapos would parobably be O.K., but since you drive daily, you probably should get OEM BJ's. Unless you are OK with doing this more often. Of course, the parts should have lifetime warranty, so only your labor will be repeated.

Northern and Harbor Freight are pretty much the same thing. The tools are cheap Chinese stuff, but unless you are using these everyday, they work well for the home mechanic.
I have a garage full of H. Freight tools. They also have a lifetime warr. on hand tools.
I brought a leaking bottle jack last week. It came with my press I got a couple of years ago. Didn't even need the recpt. The mgr. told the girl to get me a new bottle jack and just put mine in the box to ship back.
No fuss, no muss.

 

[salvaged]

You get what you pay for and those must be the cheapest ball joint prices I've ever seen. UBJs for 12.99?? OEM would be a lot more $$, but you won't be doing it again in a year or even 5-10 years. I would be really surprised if those cheapies even last more than a few months without tearing/cracking/leaking - my Moogs didn't. Do yourself a favor, learn from my mistake... get OEM parts only! The poly bushings are good though, I have no problems with mine.

oh i know you get what you pay for and i usually always get OEM or aftermarket upgradesfor my cars but i cannot at this time, i am getting all of this for what it would cost me for just OEM upper and lower ball joints. I just hope it doesnt really come to bite me in the ass later. woirse comes to worse i have to ball joints again not the end of the world or i could get luck y and they last till 300k

also i dailey drive it but my commute is 10 miles round trip so im not worried and for the occasional road trip with is usually a thousand round trip. if these parts last me 20k i will be happy given my truck already has 245k on it

 

[salvaged]

morning
so i got under the truck and rooted around for a bit to get a good look at things

Drive line - barely any movement in it mainly a lil rotating movement in the gears not the drive shaft U-joints. However there is quite a bit of grease flung on the underbody right inline with the u-joints. Should these be clean or are they no good anymore. or is it just from when they greased the joints. ( now i need to buy a grease gun )

Ball joints- both lowers are ripped uppers look perfect

Steering rack - definitely a bunch of movement

Tie-rods outers - look perfect no signs of rips/tears and when jacked up there is no movement in the wheel

So it looks likes i have work ahead of me tonight does anyone have a write up on the steering rack bushing replacements that is the only job i have never done. however im guessing its just like every other bushing install, Curse, press, curse, press grab a beer assess the situation and curse , press some more

 

[denverunner]

Grease the u-joints/driveline. The "flung" grease you see is excess, no need to worry. I hit the zerks at every oil change, for good measure.

Steering rack bushings.... so much fun :ybrick:

here are the writeups (for tacoma, but no difference here)I referenced when doing mine:

Tacoma Steering Bushing Replacement

02 Steering Rack Bushing Replacment

Another thing to note: It was easier for me to pound out the bushings with a socket & hammer. I didn't have enough room for my c-clamp to fit in there properly. I think, imo, the hammer/socket combo was much quicker, overall.

Both are great writeups, with good pictures and great explanations. I'm still a novice with this stuff, so I really found them really helpful

 

[salvaged]

update if you haven't read the other thread and for people when searching the forums

So the whole front end was replaced, first off i have been working on cars for almost 20 years and mostly rusty cars at that. This truck is completely rust free and i probably have 15 hours into this job what PITA.


ball joints are OE brand from advanced auto ( read cheap)
TRE's ended up being moog's
shocks all the way around were Monroe Sensa tracks ( cheap as well, and still have to put the rears in ) )
shock mounts

total with a new alignment came in just under 500.00 bucks that includes buying a pickle fork , a 1 1/2" socket and 40.00 for shop time to replace the upper ball joints. So for guys/girls that don't have a at least a 1500.00 to go with all OEM parts and 800.00 suspension. I think these parts are fine only time will tell since the originals lasted 245k :lookout:

heres the best part NO MORE SHIMMY/SHAKE at 55 - 70 smooth

still on the list is the damm steering rack bushings that middle bolt that gets taken out from on top of rack i just don't see it being possible. I gave it my best go. so that project is for another day.

Overall the monroes are a big improvement over the stocks no more front end bouncyness when braking and smooth over bumps not a rough ride and yet not a bouncy ride. So that's it i actually cured my shimmy which i was sure was not gonna happen after doing all this work!!!!!!

good luck to all you shimmy/shaking mystery hunters out there its a long road and could be anything from a missing wheel weight to countless tire balancings , wheel alignment , u-joints, tires, bushings, shocks, etc.. the list goes on i feel for you have fun