vibrations above 60 MPH

[gh25_]

Hey guys,

I've seen plenty of threads on here about vibrations and stuff but i'm not sure, they haven't really been much help for me....
I have a 1998 4runner 2WD. It only happens when I am going freeway / highway speeds and go above 60-65mph. Once I go above that I feel noticeable vibrations all around. Like dadadadadadadadada going down the road. Driving around town and under 60-65 its smooth no vibrations. I can feel it in my steering wheel and I can see the passenger seat shaking when no one is in it. I can also see the auto shifter shaking too. Everything kinda shakes because of it. I replaced so many things hoping that this vibration would go away but it's quite frustrating to say the least that it hasn't gone away. It's annoying because I drive other cars and it's smooth as butter and I feel nothing. I know it could be a list of things but at this point It should be able to be narrowed down somewhat.

At this point in time I have replaced, both L&R outer tie rods, lower ball joints. I have brand new camburg UCA's. Brand new whiteline poly LCA bushings. New energy suspension steering rack bushings. New king shocks. All four tires are new put on early last year and have been rotated and rebalanced recently, none asked for any crazy weight or anything.

Anyone have any ideas?
I have felt my driveshaft for play too to see if it is that but I gave both universal joints a strong wiggle and neither front or rear had play. I also want to do the tac weld and steering plastic ball shim thing. Not sure if that would help though.
I am trying to think of other things I could replace related to the steering / suspension.

Could it be the inner tie rods? I felt them before and they feel fine no play or anything.

Shot rear control arm bushings?

Out of balance driveshaft?

Worn out rag joint / steering universal joint?

Steering rack guide?

Any input is appreciated. Thanks.

 

[weberlukas74]

Considering your symptoms, I'd probably start by checking out the driveshaft. Even if the wiggle test didn't show anything, it might be worth getting it balanced just to be sure. Also, look into the wheel and hub bearings – any uneven wear or play in these parts can cause vibrations, especially when you're cruising at higher speeds.

Don't forget to inspect the suspension mounts and bushings, not only in the rear control arms but all over the suspension system. A worn-out or damaged component here can definitely transmit vibrations.

If you haven't already, take a look at the alignment too. Sometimes even a slightly misaligned wheel can be the culprit for vibrations at higher speeds.

And you can check those transmission mounts. If there's too much movement in the transmission, it could lead to vibrations throughout the whole vehicle.

 

[Twisted Sid]

Pull the driveshaft. It's 4 bolts and a drip pan to catch any fluid that comes out the trans. I had the vibration issue (60-70mph) a few years ago on my 99 2wd and it was one of the u joints that was seizing up but it had no play while installed. I replaced both joints and the vibrations were gone.

 

[alumarine]

Like Sid said, remove the driveshaft and check the ujoints for play off the truck.

 

[phattyduck]

Pull the driveshaft. It's 4 bolts and a drip pan to catch any fluid that comes out the trans. I had the vibration issue (60-70mph) a few years ago on my 99 2wd and it was one of the u joints that was seizing up but it had no play while installed. I replaced both joints and the vibrations were gone.

Even if both u-joints are fine, the factory 2WD prop shaft has a rubber isolated 2-piece shaft that can cause serious vibrations when the rubber wears out. A complete new solid prop shaft will fix it. Any local driveshaft shop or even auto parts retailers can get the part.

4 bolts, slide out of trans, slide new one in and re-install the 4 bolts.

-Charlie

 

[Devbot]

Driveshaft would've been the first thing I checked - well, well before tie rods and UCAs.

 

[gh25_]

Considering your symptoms, I'd probably start by checking out the driveshaft. Even if the wiggle test didn't show anything, it might be worth getting it balanced just to be sure. Also, look into the wheel and hub bearings – any uneven wear or play in these parts can cause vibrations, especially when you're cruising at higher speeds.

Don't forget to inspect the suspension mounts and bushings, not only in the rear control arms but all over the suspension system. A worn-out or damaged component here can definitely transmit vibrations.

If you haven't already, take a look at the alignment too. Sometimes even a slightly misaligned wheel can be the culprit for vibrations at higher speeds.

And you can check those transmission mounts. If there's too much movement in the transmission, it could lead to vibrations throughout the whole vehicle.

I am glad you said those things because I have actually done the transmission mount and I got an alignment at firestone 3 weeks ago since i put on new shocks. Alignment is good right now and the tranny mount was replaced less than 5K ago. It is probably my drive shaft lol... which I was hoping it wasn't but given the age of the assemblies on the driveline seems like the most likely possibility. Good idea with the wheel bearings too. I can just jack up the wheels and check. They should be pretty good though,

 

[gh25_]

Pull the driveshaft. It's 4 bolts and a drip pan to catch any fluid that comes out the trans. I had the vibration issue (60-70mph) a few years ago on my 99 2wd and it was one of the u joints that was seizing up but it had no play while installed. I replaced both joints and the vibrations were gone.

Even if both u-joints are fine, the factory 2WD prop shaft has a rubber isolated 2-piece shaft that can cause serious vibrations when the rubber wears out. A complete new solid prop shaft will fix it. Any local driveshaft shop or even auto parts retailers can get the part.

4 bolts, slide out of trans, slide new one in and re-install the 4 bolts.

-Charlie

What both of you guys are saying makes a lot sense to me. I guess a bit unfortunate. At this point I think I'll just be buying a whole new driveshaft lol. Those who know old probably original universal joints are probably worn out and along with what phattyduck said about the two piece part. Which I just discovered! Man how did you know that?? I just went out to my truck and took a good look underneath again, I was confused what you were talking about since I've seen my driveshaft before it seemed like it was always just one big piece. I didn't realize it was a smaller inner piece with rubber around it and the outer piece. I will attach some pictures I took I was looking at the back of it on the side connected to the pumpkin and I saw what looked like something separating the two metal pieces and I got my knife out and poked it and sure enough it's rubber. Interesting. Since what phattyduck says is true it would probably be better off to just replace the whole unit. Hopefully that includes new universal joints on it? At least it's easy to do haha!

Thanks twistedsid & phattyduck.

 

[gh25_]

Just started looking around on the internet. Looks like they just sell the whole driveshafts as a unit. Fresh prop unit with new universals. I'll just do that. I see that rock auto has some and I looked on O'Reilly's. Would this be something I should go OEM (not sure if I can even buy it) or would like a dorman or something be good? Seems like the aftermarket ones have designs where you can replace the u joints easily any recommendations for which one to get? Not even sure what the part # for the OEM one is either it's prolly discontinued or something haha Thanks.


1998 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 3.4L V6 Drive Shaft | RockAuto

https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/cv--driveshaft---axle/drive-shaft/bd77ee97d948/v/a/7921/automotive-suv-1998-toyota-4runner?q=drive+shaft

 

[Outrider]

I found myself in the same situation around 12 years ago. I cut out my OEM u-joints and installed new ones that are both serviceable and removeable. It was either that or buy a new OEM one for around $1,500 (IIRC). It was a pretty involved project, and I had to buy a $50 arbor press to do it. But the entire job only cost me around $100.

I would stay away from a Dorman one. Their stuff is pretty low end, and I had a really bad experience with a brand new Dorman valve cover for my T4R. I ended up returning it to Rockauto and getting a used OEM one from a member here. That solved my problem.

Whatever you buy, make sure it has grease fittings for the u-joints, and then grease them every year or so. That will prevent the failure from happening again, as Toyota cheaped-out on the original one, without u-joints. I hate it when beancounters tell engineers what to do (I was an engineer).

 

[gh25_]

I found myself in the same situation around 12 years ago. I cut out my OEM u-joints and installed new ones that are both serviceable and removeable. It was either that or buy a new OEM one for around $1,500 (IIRC). It was a pretty involved project, and I had to buy a $50 arbor press to do it. But the entire job only cost me around $100.

I would stay away from a Dorman one. Their stuff is pretty low end, and I had a really bad experience with a brand new Dorman valve cover for my T4R. I ended up returning it to Rockauto and getting a used OEM one from a member here. That solved my problem.

Whatever you buy, make sure it has grease fittings for the u-joints, and then grease them every year or so. That will prevent the failure from happening again, as Toyota cheaped-out on the original one, without u-joints. I hate it when beancounters tell engineers what to do (I was an engineer).

Yeah that's the only problem i have with the OEM ones they don't have any grease fittings which doesn't make sense since the 4wd ones do. I was able to find the part # though it's #37110-3D070. Plugged that into my local toyota dealer and on the website says it's only 430 bucks. At that price I would just go with OEM. The dorman one actually costs more lol. Orielly's has a different brand they don't have on rock auto not sure if it's any good though. I'd like to go with OEM but not sure if I should get one with two piece rubber design thing again. I'd also really like to get one with easy serviceability.

 

[alumarine]

Yeah that's the only problem i have with the OEM ones they don't have any grease fittings which doesn't make sense since the 4wd ones do. I was able to find the part # though it's #37110-3D070. Plugged that into my local toyota dealer and on the website says it's only 430 bucks. At that price I would just go with OEM. The dorman one actually costs more lol. Orielly's has a different brand they don't have on rock auto not sure if it's any good though.

If that $430 is complete with ujoints I'd say go with the OEM.
Even without grease zerks it will last a good long time.

 

[gh25_]

If that $430 is complete with ujoints I'd say go with the OEM.
Even without grease zerks it will last a good long time.

Yep that is true. If it lasted this long it should last this long again haha. OEM it is. I am pretty sure it is a whole complete unit. Before I buy it I will email my Toyota parts guy to confirm. All the pictures I have seen of it its 1 big assembly u joints drive shaft brackets and all. I would be taking the old one out and put the new one in and be done.

 

[Devbot]

Talk to a driveline builder like Tom Woods or a local shop. There's a good chance they'll do it cheaper and better. Toyota charges about the same for a 4WD rear driveshaft, but mine was over $100 cheaper, built with DOM tubing AND came with a case hardened yoke.

 

[phattyduck]

Whatever you buy, make sure it has grease fittings for the u-joints, and then grease them every year or so. That will prevent the failure from happening again, as Toyota cheaped-out on the original one, without u-joints. I hate it when beancounters tell engineers what to do (I was an engineer).

Non-greasable joints are stronger and lower maintenance. The 2WD was built to avoid having a 'lube the chassis' line item, which lowers total cost of ownership for the 'budget' 2WD trucks. Lower maintenance costs was actually one of the reasons my dad bought a 2WD instead of a 4WD back in '99...

I had a local driveline shop build me a complete new driveshaft for $400 when I had this issue before swapping to 4WD. Later sold it for $200 to someone who also had this issue...

-Charlie

 

[thezentree]

Talk to a driveline builder like Tom Woods or a local shop. There's a good chance they'll do it cheaper and better. Toyota charges about the same for a 4WD rear driveshaft, but mine was over $100 cheaper, built with DOM tubing AND came with a case hardened yoke.

For what it's worth I've had two Tom Woods driveshafts. I sent the first one back because it was bent, and then had the second one rebuilt by a local shop because it was also bent.

 

[brillo_76]

For what it's worth I've had two Tom Woods driveshafts. I sent the first one back because it was bent, and then had the second one rebuilt by a local shop because it was also bent.

This is the first I have heard of 2 bent Tom Woods Driveshafts.. Interesting. Thanks for sharing it.

 

[gh25_]

Well... I haven't heard of tom woods before but it is not looking good for him so far. lol...

I think I'll either just buy an OEM one or there is a place here local to me called Drivelines Inc. Did a little research on them, they are supposed to be a really reputable place. The do driveshafts for BMW's, 18 wheelers and their quote "everything in between" they also make custom driveshafts for people like BJ Baldwin and his trophy trucks. Rad! If they are able to give a quote over the phone possibly and it is cheaper than OEM then that seems like a good choice. Well see what happens

 

[thezentree]

They're well known in the 4x4 world, and I hate knocking them because they had good customer service and the driveshafts both worked, but they both vibrated badly at highway speeds. They'd be fine for a rock crawler, but for a DD I was frustrated pretty frustrated with how banana shaped they were.

 

[gh25_]

Just called that local shop drivelines inc and talked with the guy on the phone he said using my factory trans yoke and rear yoke they could get a whole new drive shaft prop with 3010 outside c-clip uni joints with zerks within a range of 550 at the lowest and 650 for the highest. No doubt if I go with this place it will be very high quality work but definitely not cheaper than OEM hahaha. Benefits of doing it with this company instead of OEM is that the replacement universals is easier to replace mechanically and since it's a 3010 like the guy said on the phone it is the most common universal joint used.